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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 21 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Did someone say Rumble seat?
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Re: Door Adjustments
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Question #2 (NKOB #5939)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Converting to stainless fuel lines
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Door Adjustments
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Searching Archives
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Question #2 (NKOB #5939)
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Question #2 (NKOB #5939)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Re: Door Adjustments
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. A/C Idler Pulley Bearings.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Searching Archives
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
17. RE: Re: Door Adjustments
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
19. Re: A/C Idler Pulley Bearings.
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
20. Beware of auction on ebay
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Question #3 (NKOB #5939)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 12:26:48 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Did someone say Rumble seat?
Walt,
The Delorean 4x4 already has a rumble seat in development, with the
rear louver to be made removable. This will most likely be used for
parade use, since there are a lot of passenger requests for parades.
Of course, the 4x4 application gives all new meaning to RUMBLE seat.
Sorry, no plans for a 3rd gullwing door for this application.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > There are a lot of good options for engines these days...
>
>snip<
>
If he left the engine out of the rear, he would have an incredible
amount of cargo space -- maybe even room for a rumble seat? Maybe
the lid to that could be a 3rd gullwing. I shouldn't mention that.
Someone will go an do it now. There is already a monster truck
DeLorean with a convertible and stretch limo in the works.
>
> Walt
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:39:04 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Door Adjustments
If your using a piston from a unknown source, I suggest you make sure the piston does not bottom out when the door is closed.
In Memphis, I had the pleasure of assisting Rob Grady with his free door adjustments and learned quite a bit about the process and common things he looks for when doing this type of thing.
On more than one car, the mount for the bottom pivot ball was bent due to the incorrect strut. The cylinder on the piston was a bit too long so when the door was closed the rod was fully compressed in to the cylinder to the point where it bottomed out. The additional force the close the door beyond the travel of the piston bent the mount. On one car in particular, the mount had been broken off at some point in the past, and was repaired very poorly.
I for one think (and I could be wrong) that these struts are a bit over priced based on the fact that average price of this type of item ranges from $15-$25 at the local NAPA. However, this is a good example on how trying to save a few dollars on a item like this can cost more in the long run.
Buy the pistons from your trusted DMC vendor. Like Dave, I noticed the improved quality of the PJGrady struts. In addition to the dampening effect that Dave talked about, they seem to be a bit stiffer than before. Maybe this is in preparation for use with door launchers??
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:03 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Door Adjustments
>
>
> > When you finaly do replace the struts then you will REALLY see
> > "bounce"!!!! BTW not all struts from all venders are equal.
>
> I have old Lift-O-Mat struts on my doors that are stronger
> than new PJ Grady
> struts. I'm not saying that the Grady struts are weak
> because with no strut
> at all my doors rest closed. According to conventional door
> adjustment
> dogma, my torsion bars need to be adjusted up. My only
> complaint with these
> struts is having to hold the door from bouncing open. They
> were on the car
> before I owned it, so I have no idea how old they are (more
> than 2 years
> anyway). Does anyone know which vendor sells this brand?
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:11:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Question #2 (NKOB #5939)
Apologies to anyone who eMailed response to Question #1 -- am still in
VA, won't check mail on local ISP until tomorrow.
Skip to Question #2 below if hot start conversation now boring ...
Posted hot start bypass does indeed work. Don't know how practical it
would be on a date ("excuse me for a minute my dear while I re-wire my
automobile"), but the poor thing does kick immediately (with all its
wires in the wrong places).
Injection appears to be healthy otherwise. Car is over 110,000 miles
-- has been driven more through its life than many. Previous owner
claimed was exercised regularly, but previous owners will tell you
anything to get a car out of their driveway. Have logged 381 trouble
free miles since Friday.
Question #2: Has anyone located source of door struts slightly more
affordable than the big vendors?
Question #2.5: Will parts house struts crack my rear louvers? They
appear to have way too much resistance?
Am going to place that big initial parts order soon after return to
North Carolina (including factory literature). Just trying to sort out
what must come from D vendors and what may be purchased commonly.
If I hear one more flux capacitor joke from the general public I think
I will scream ...
Bill Robertson
(heading towards) North Carolina
#5939
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:55:35 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Converting to stainless fuel lines
Has anyone had any luck at this? Everywhere I go I get the same thing...
<inbred hillbilly accent> "I never see'd nothing like 'at before." </inbred
hillbilly accent>
It seems that the heat shrunk banjo fitting is foreign to most hose and
hydraulic manufacturers.
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:45:40 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Adjustments
Don Steger - DeLorean Motor Center sells Lift-O-Mat struts.
A minor difference from "stock" on his is that the shaft is black instead of bare steel.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I have old Lift-O-Mat struts on my doors that are stronger than
new. . .
>Does anyone know which vendor sells this brand?
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 20:03:17 -0000
From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
[ Moderator's note: Don Steger of the DeLorean Motor Center has braided stainless fuel lines. He had a few sets for sale in Memphis last month.]
If I can find a male flare to metric banjo adapter that has an 8MM or
5/16" hole in it, this project will work. All I can find are the 10MM
adapters. 8MM seems to be as elusive as Sasquatch, and like their
furry counterpart, may only a myth.
Question is, do they even exist?
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:20:18 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Searching Archives
I don't want to start a thread on searching the archives,
but I just HAVE to point out that the Yahoo!-groups search
utility DOES work. It doesn't work as intuitively as you'd
want, but it IS really helpfull...
As someone mentioned allready it only searches the most
recent messages, but it does so to save time and come
up with a result as fast as possible.
Look at the line ABOVE the list of results; it shows which
range of messages was searched. If you want to look further,
just click "NEXT" and the next batch of messages is searched.
If you click "NEXT" all the way through, you will end up at
the very beginning of the list, 4/9/1999 at that time this
was still an eGroup, but a while back Yahoo! took over...
As I am writing this there are 26679 messages on-line,
by the time everyone can read this, it'll be even more...
Searching on dmcnews.com is faster, but those are digests,
on Yahoo!groups the actual threads are much easier to follow.
To cut a long story short; it DOES work.
And please, let's not clutter the list with commenst
on how it SHOULD work, let's talk cars instead...
Thanks,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 18:41:43 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
When I did my fuel pressure sender project last year (read about it in
the DMCNews Tech Section here:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelpressend.htm) I had the folks at
Baker Precision Bearings (see the article for a link to their website)
make up a 24" long braided-stainless-steel-covered fuel rated cable with
an 8 mm banjo fitting on one end and -3 BRA fitting on the other. They
charged $20 and had it to me in a few days. From all appearances they
will gladly make up anything you want.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
On Tuesday, July 9, 2002, at 04:03 PM, cdrugly wrote:
> [ Moderator's note: Don Steger of the DeLorean Motor Center has braided
> stainless fuel lines. He had a few sets for sale in Memphis last month.]
>
>
> If I can find a male flare to metric banjo adapter that has an 8MM or
> 5/16" hole in it, this project will work. All I can find are the 10MM
> adapters. 8MM seems to be as elusive as Sasquatch, and like their
> furry counterpart, may only a myth.
>
> Question is, do they even exist?
>
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 22:50:20 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
I will give Don Stegers braided stainless fuel lines the thumbs up.
The Yellow D at the Memphis show got a set of his lines and they went
on great and fit like a glove. Plus, for the price Don is getting,
its cheaper to buy his lines than to buy the OEM lines.
Very satisfied
Ron
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> [ Moderator's note: Don Steger of the DeLorean Motor Center has
braided stainless fuel lines. He had a few sets for sale in Memphis
last month.]
>
>
> If I can find a male flare to metric banjo adapter that has an 8MM
or
> 5/16" hole in it, this project will work. All I can find are the
10MM
> adapters. 8MM seems to be as elusive as Sasquatch, and like their
> furry counterpart, may only a myth.
>
> Question is, do they even exist?
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:35:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
We were at our sponsors' last week getting Draven ready for Robot Wars and I sidetracked and talked cars for a few minutes. They have a number of
customers who they supply hosing to and have braided stainless fitting on the shelf. All I have to do is tell them how many fittings I want, what
the inside diameter of the banjos is, and how many metres of hosing I want. The fittings are actually DIY! They sell mainly to motorbike racing
teams apparently. They do Stainless fittings to order, but they are very expensive. Chrome plated ones are half the price and standard nickel plated
ones are even cheaper. I will get around to ordering a load when I'm less busy!
The company is www.a1hydraulics.co.uk though I realise this is of limited use outside of the UK
Martin
#1458
PS I liked Don's hoses a lot, but balked at the price.
cdrugly wrote:
> [ Moderator's note: Don Steger of the DeLorean Motor Center has braided stainless fuel lines. He had a few sets for sale in Memphis last month.]
>
> If I can find a male flare to metric banjo adapter that has an 8MM or
> 5/16" hole in it, this project will work. All I can find are the 10MM
> adapters. 8MM seems to be as elusive as Sasquatch, and like their
> furry counterpart, may only a myth.
>
> Question is, do they even exist?
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 23:31:36 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question #2 (NKOB #5939)
> If I hear one more flux capacitor joke from the general public I
think
> I will scream ...
Congrats on your new D! Unfortunately, these jokes are just
something you're going to need to get used to. I've always been
quite introverted, and so I consider the stares, jokes and hovering
crowds to be one of the most annoying things about owning a D (yes,
even more annoying than the cooling system). It's always amazed me
how people can make back to the future jokes and laugh at themselves
histerically, thinking you'd never heard them before. I've owned a
daily driver Delorean for 2.5 years now. Trust me; the intrusive
glances and sour jokes will never stop, but I've learned to deal with
them.
You can learn things from this experience, though. For example, if
you ever meet a movie star, you now know that you don't ask them what
their next movie is going to be, and you don't make impressions of
their latest character. Think of it as part of your social education.
Anyway, the next time you overhear someone bragging about how cool
his car is because it gets lots of looks, you can rightfully
snicker...because you know how he'd feel if he *really* owned a cool
car.
Aaron
#1506
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:46:10 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question #2 (NKOB #5939)
Bill,
I personally try to source cheaper cross-referenced parts (mainly because of being in the
UK) but I will strongly recommend a set of gas struts from one of the vendors. When
buying my car, I needed a full set and bought PJ Grady's.
http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=7
They all have the "brake" in the last inch of travel and all function fantastically. I
have seen X-reffed struts on a friend's bonnet and in his own words "you need a running
jump to close it!"
Spend the money on the gas struts, You won't regret it. IMO the money's not that much
anyway...
Martin
#1458
content22207 wrote:
> Question #2: Has anyone located source of door struts slightly more
> affordable than the big vendors?
>
> Question #2.5: Will parts house struts crack my rear louvers? They
> appear to have way too much resistance?
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 16:55:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Door Adjustments
I think the best thing to do to get prepared for door launchers would be
the temperature adjusting struts. I was initially pretty geared up over
the door launchers, until i realized that i'd look lame if i pushed a
button and the doors only opened part way.
I also have the dampening struts. When using these struts, should the
tortion bars be torqued a bit more than they would be without the
dampening struts?
-Christian
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 00:17:03 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: A/C Idler Pulley Bearings.
When I get home today, I should have a new set of idler pulley bearings
waiting for me to replace my old ones. Right now, I have neither my workshop
manual, nor my cell phone handy, so I'll post this question to the list;
Does anyone have any tips on replacing these bearings? I know that there is
a clip on the front that I could remove with a pair of needle nose pliers. So do I
have to remove both brackets from the engine block, or can I change the
bearings with them left on? Ideas? Advice?
As usual, thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:32:16 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Searching Archives
As Jan pointed out in his post, the archives contain over 26,000 postings.
If every one of these contained complete reprints of the previous post
that's being responded to it would make it even harder to wade through
these. Please don't include one, two, and I've seen as many as three entire
long previous posts included when someone has an addition to a topic. Please
trim them to whatever part is pertinent to your post or even better, cut
them before sending it.
Bruce Benson. this week's moderator
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 19:38:10 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
> If I can find a male flare to metric banjo adapter that has an 8MM or
> 5/16" hole in it, this project will work.
Which fuel line is this for? If it's the one for the fuel filter, I would
question if you even need a fitting there. Just make a line that goes from
the hose directly to the banjo and skip the flare. If you already have me
beat on this project then let me know and I won't waste my time with it. I
am getting ready to box up a set of old fuel lines to send to
www.classictube.com to have them quote on making SS braided sets. Tom (the
guy I spoke to) said that they won't even know if they can make them until
they see them. I almost bought what Don Steger had at the Memphis show but
was disappointed that he didn't have the two longer ones. These are the
ones from the filter to the distributor and from the distributor to the fuel
return line. As for hoses leaking in the engine compartment, I remember
hearing of someone's filter hose splitting and causing a fire. Ah, how
rumors start. The hoses on my car are probably fine, but I like the SS
braided look and the peace of mind knowing that they are new. This idea is
what got me started on the Halon thread. Silly me.
One important question for y'all: What's the deal with the line attached to
the frequency valve? It looks like we are married to that one.
If all goes well, Classic Tube may start offering fuel lines for the
DeLorean just like any regular car that they pre-stock fuel lines for. But
the larger banjos could be a problem. The narrow '82 style for the fuel
pump check valve is probably non-existent. The one for the fuel filter may
be a problem too (or they can match the flare fitting?) For starters, I'm
just going to send them the hoses for everything south of the accumulator.
Thinner SS braided lines for the fuel pump will need something more to
reliably seal the fuel pump boot cover.
At the Memphis show, DMC Joe, Rob Grady, John Hervey, Tom Niemczewski and
myself had a pow-wow on what to do about the no-longer-available '82 fuel
pump banjo. Tom is going to try to source them in Europe. If he can't find
them then Daniel Deutsch is going to look into having some made in Taiwan.
If we end up having anything like that custom made, then we'll have him look
into having the other hard-to-find pieces made to complete the rest of the
fuel lines. (I just love to name drop. I counted 5 in that last paragraph.
:-)
I should have this old set in the mail to these guys this week. I'll let
y'all know how it turns out. If anyone is interested in pre-ordering,
e-mail me off list. It might help to get the price down. It probably won't
help to bug these guys unless you can tell them exactly what they need to
make. Tom (not-Niemczewski) loosely quoted $40 per line but said the price
would come down if done in quantity.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 20:27:18 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Door Adjustments
>I was initially pretty geared up over
>the door launchers, until i realized that i'd look lame if i pushed a
>button and the doors only opened part way.
mine don't bounce (it's about 100 right now but was 50's when I put them
in), I have the PJ's, and I can tell you the doors don't generally open
halfway-- it's either all or nothing.
Rain and street incline interfere more than temperature.
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 22:15:38 -0400
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Braided fuel lines... *UPDATE*
Martin and Group. I already have some of the fuel lines done as you can see on the front page of my web site. I'm still working on the others, so I'm just waiting on some more time.What connectors is everyone having trouble.
John
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 23:37:00 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A/C Idler Pulley Bearings.
Robert,
Just did mine...I don't consider myself an expert but I would say you must
take both pulleys off the car...It is not hard...Just 3 bolts if I
recall...Just make sure when you remove the long bracket that you are ready
for the little black O ring that sits behind the cam cover (the a/c bracket
holds this cover on) you may need to replace the O ring.
Take the bracket (with both pulleys on) to your work bench and get out your
liquid wrench and spray...I also cleaned the parts at this point....The main
bolt is the toughest to remove. Once it is off just remember the order the
spacers came off...I used snap ring pliers from Sears and the bearing clips
came right off....I carefully tapped/used monkey grease on the old bearing
and it will slide off....
Just follow the directions backward to put back on and you will be fine....As
always be careful when you retighten the bolts that you dont over tighten and
strip the threads on the engine...
This repair I rate as an 6 sware word job on a scale of 100 :-)
Good luck!!!!!
Mike
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:09:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Beware of auction on ebay
If anyone is looking at the car listed in the link below:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1842777504
Take note of the engine picture....
Now, take a look at my engine on my website. www.etdoc.com
http://www.etdoc.com/gallery/aposey/image04.jpg
...look familiar??
This could be a possible scammer, or someone just borrowing my engine picture. I will be notifying ebay about the matter. No matter which, this car is being misrepresented.
Regards,
Aaron Posey
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
New! SBC Yahoo! Dial - 1st Month Free & unlimited access
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 04:22:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Question #3 (NKOB #5939)
Will these questions never end (a bit like taking a 6 year old to the
movies, eh?)
Thanks for info & support to date (will answer all those eMails
tomorrow). Will buy vendor struts. How about the fuel accumulator --
anyone have a Volvo etc cross reference, or will that be another D
purchase?
BTW: driver is now home in NC but car's still in VA. No problems -- it
just takes a genius to drive north, to buy another car from even
further north, when there's only one person to bring both home. I'll
go back for it ASAP (which brings us conveniently to next question ...)
Question #3: Passenger exhaust manifold gasket is torn & leaking.
Would like to replace before I drive car south (it's embarrassing).
Does anyone have a common cross reference or should I get one
expressed from a D vendor?
BBTW: check out message #25848. Yes, it's me. Guess who's knee deep in
fuel injection now ...
BBBTW: converted A/C to 134 while in VA. Works excellent. Was my fifth
successful conversion *without* special tools. Will share procedure if
anyone's interested.
Bill Robertson
North Carolina (but his D is 400 miles away)
#5939
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