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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Quick temp gauge question
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Rivnuts
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Quick temp gauge question - correction
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
5. rivnuts
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Rivnuts
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. RE: strange start problems << I have a similar issue
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Twin-engine Delorean site
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: update on stalling, power loss...
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Quick temp gauge question
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Setting the Clock
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Rivnuts
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Twin-engine Delorean site
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Fw: Poll results for dmcnews
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
15. No fuel pressure
From: JVC220@xxxxxxx
16. R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
21. RE: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
24. Re: New DML member in Miami..wants to learn
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Fw: Poll results for dmcnews
From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:03:49 -0400
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Quick temp gauge question
In a message dated Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:32:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Where is the sending unit for the temp gauge?
>
> my temp gauge just sits there .. does not move ...
>
>
> sometimes if i am lucky it works.. sounds like a bad
> connection
>
> if any can please let me know
>
> thanks
> ken
> 05541
Ken,
the sending unit is found by removing the airbox and peering on the inner side of the passenger side cylinder head. there should be a single green wire sticking off the post on top of it. it's a little bit hard to see, a little bit harder to remove and replace, but no biggie. i think it only costs about $20. check the wire on the sending unit and make sure it is tight. also check where the wire goes into the firewall near the ignition coil thru one of those big harnesses. i don't remember which pin it is, maybe someone else can help you there. if the problem lies in the cluster, it could be that the gauge isn't making good connections on the PCB board, or the harness isn't making a good connection on the copper fingers. finally, it isn't impossible for the whole gauge to be bad. mine was!
good luck,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 03:21:47 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts
Electric drill unless the rivnut spins, then a Dremel tool w. cutoff
wheel.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Chris" <chris@xxxx> wrote:
> Whats the best way of removing Rivnets?, I have one where the bolt
is solid
> in the rivnet but the bolt has no head, and the other bolt has a
head but
> again the bolt has sezed into the rivnut and the Rivnut turns in the
> underbody. Any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:25:46 -0400
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Quick temp gauge question - correction
I'm sorry Joe but that would be the pressure sender for oil press gauge.
The sender for the temp gauge is located on the inside of the right block,
right about where the heater core valve would be. It is pointing up and to
the left under the intake manifold on right side. You do not have to remove
any parts to get to it. If you find the distributor on the left you'll find
that the sender is in about(!) the same place on the right.
You can email me privately if you can't find it. I can guide you to it over
the phone.
Take care
Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298 (FOR SALE)
tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
----- Original Message -----
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Quick temp gauge question
> The sender is located on the right side of the engine block next to the
oil
> filter (P.M. 1/1/1 #22).
>
> DMC Joe Help Club
> DeLorean Web Mall: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
>
> DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 1:32 PM
> Subject: [DML] Quick temp gauge question
>
>
> >
> > Where is the sending unit for the temp gauge?
> >
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 23:37:09 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
I just chased this goose, my brake master was leaking past the seal at
the vacuum assist. I took the master out and apart to find an amazing
few pieces, it looked like two new rubber and I would be on my way. I
didn't have much luck with this, though.. I went to my local auto parts
store to see if I could get a rebuild or new master cylinder. The master
is made by GIRLING, who is in cahoots with Lucas on some level (great..).
The parts place was not able to find a girling-suggested replacement
part, and said that there was not a rebuild kit available ( to them) so
they were just about unable to help. Another store said that rebuild
kits are expensive, and aren't worth dealing with for the cost of a new
unit. I don't know if I believe that, how much could a few rubber pieces
cost? Perhaps the kits also comes with a new plunger internal part as
well. Then they said that no one really rebuilds because the cylinder
would have to be honed to make sure that the plunger would make a good
seal, and most places don't do that becuase it's not a very thick wall to
be honing.
After this, I decided that it just wasn't worth the trouble of chasing
around the block a few times. Grady and I'm sure other parts vendors
have the new parts and they're guaranteed to fit and not leak. I figure
for the pain of having to fix it, i'd might as well fix it correctly- the
brakes are a pretty important function in the car, and a brake fluid leak
will severely damage the frame if left unattended- first by gelling the
epoxy, then rusting. You can probably get a new brake master at your
local auto store, a GIRLING cross reference number was on the DML just
last week I think..
good luck.
Jim
1537
On Mon, 24 Jun 2002 13:13:07 -0400 hostmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I tried to search the DML archives for this, but simply don't have
> the time to bog through page after page of "my individual tastes are
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 08:39:17 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: rivnuts
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 03:38:47 +0100
From: "Chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rivnuts
What's the best way of removing Rivnets?, I have one where the bolt
is solid
in the rivet but the bolt has no head, and the other bolt has a head
but
again the bolt has seized into the rivnut and the Rivnut turns in the
underbody. Any ideas?
Thanks
Chris S
Vin 16327
Chris,
The only way to deal with it,is the cut or chisel the head with a die
grinder or dremmel tool, with a little cut-off wheel,then PUSH the
body of the rivitnut INTO the fiberglass body,UNDER NO circumstances
try to pull out the rivitnut,as you will cause fiberglass damage,as
the rivitnut is in a compressed state,and therefore,the inside area,
is BIGGER than the hole that it was originally inserted into,once
pushed into the fiberglass body,you are now ready to install a new
rivitnut.
Claude
00570
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:12:53 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rivnuts
Chris, The only thing I can think of would be to cross drill it several times
with a small bit and try to collapse the rivnut with the metal that has been
drilled out.
John
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:14:38 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: strange start problems << I have a similar issue
Travis-
it's really strange that you are having the same problem and same results as
me. When I pulled the thermo-time wire it also started after an initial
problem. I, too, have not had a problem since that episode.
I am curious-- what is your mileage typically like? Mine is at about 15 mpg.
I am just wondering if this valve is defective and wastes gas all the time.
I wonder what other similarities there are that cause this problem at the
same time. (my car is #4687, and it has 26,100 miles).
I've tried driving "softer" but it hasn't increased, so I don't think it is
low because of my lead foot. By the end of the week I'll know if changing
plugs helped that any, but I doubt it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 7:39 AM
To: 'dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
Subject: RE: [DML] strange start problems << I have a similar issue
Good news. I got the car started! I pulled the wire to the thermo-time
switch and she huffed and puffed and turned over. It's initial hesitation I
blame on a build-up of fuel from the prior crankings. Now, it only takes
about one turn of the starter solenoid to get it cranked.
Now to the weird part. Once I unplugged the thermo-time switch, it cranks
fine. If I plug it back in, it also cranks fine. When the engine is cold
there is some sputtering if I hammer down on the gas, but slow pressure
rises the RPMs nicely.
Could it be that the thermo-time switch was stuck closed and unplugging it
caused it to be released, leaving it stuck open all the time?
Early on, I was checking the spark at the plug and I couldn't get one. Will
the spark jump out past the rubber sheath when grounded to the engine?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:28:54 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: strange start problems << I have a similar issue
Pull a spark plug wire and see if you are getting a nice blue spark.
In the event you aren't two common things to check are the connections
on the ballast resistors, (those white things on the firewall on the
left side) and the pick-up coil in the distributer. If you have a nice
spark then the problem is fuel related but since you can smell fuel I
think the engine is getting fuel it just isn't "lighting it off".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:13:30 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Twin-engine Delorean site
Hi Rick,
great site! How long have you been working on this Delorean?
Keep up the great work.
Erik Geerdink
4512
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Some of you folks might remember my car from Memphis. In case
> anybody is interested, here is a site I just put together about its
> construction to date.
>
> http://www.gendreaumicro.com/tenpointtwo/11472index.htm
>
> As an aside, I thought Dan Deutsch's summary of our fire
extinguisher
> rants was pretty funny. I like marshmallows.
>
> Rick Gendreau, 11472
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 08:56:25 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: update on stalling, power loss...
Bad ground is a good bet..
Remove the bolt holding the ground wire on the trailing arm bushing mount. Clean the bolt, and wire connector, the nut, and the mount. Bolt it all back up.
A good test to see if this is your problem is using a Volt meter. Check the voltage across the battery, it should be above 12V. Then check it between the + on the battery, and the ground post on the firewall. It should be the same as at the battery. If not, the frame ground is a good place to start.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Louie G [mailto:louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:34 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] update on stalling, power loss...
>
<SNIP>
> We're
> thinking perhaps a ground was disturbed? Still perplexed....
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:03:33 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Quick temp gauge question
I think they are asking about the TEMPERATURE gage..
The sender is in the passenger side head. It is hard to see unless you know what your looking for, but it can be changed without removing anything else.
It is directly across the "V" from the distributor.
PM 1/1/5 #45
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DMC Joe [mailto:dmcjoe@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 2:47 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Quick temp gauge question
>
>
> The sender is located on the right side of the engine block
> next to the oil
> filter (P.M. 1/1/1 #22).
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 1:32 PM
> Subject: [DML] Quick temp gauge question
>
>
> >
> > Where is the sending unit for the temp gauge?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:50:20 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Setting the Clock
Hi Toby,
Having read many of your posts and learning quite a bit in the
process I would love answer your question about setting the clock
(materials technology was one of my favorite classed BTW).
On My DeLorean the button for the hour adjustment fell out and into
the clock assembly thus I could only adjust the minutes on my clock
also.
I eventually got around to taking the clock apart and repositioning
the plunger/ button for the hour display but it was still very
difficult to adjust the hour portion of the clock because the
internal compression switch on the clock had wear and didn't always
work, thus I resorted to my old way of setting the time on the clock.
Fortunately having an electrical engineering background I was able to
use years of education and experiance to come up with this procedure
to set the time on my DeLorean clock (works for most cars too). :)
If you pull the clock fuse out of the fuse holder for 5 minutes or
more and then plug it back in at 12:00 noon or Midnight you will have
the correct time set on your clock.
Fortunately you can adjust the minutes on your clock so now you can
use this method to get you to 12:00 and just adjust the minutes to
the correct time (procedure is now good for approximately 2 hours a
day 12 noon and midnight).
If you want to adjust the time with only the minute adjustment at any
other time in the day, advance the minutes to 59 wait 1 minute and
the hour will advance then again advance the min to 59 and let the
hour increment a minute later.
Regards,
Mike D.
Vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello List - Could I ask a simple, non-provocative question? At
the
> risk of sounding technically inept, how does one set the "hours" on
> the OEM clock? Background - For the first time in 14+ years of
> ownership, I have a functioning clock in Winged1. I have tried to
> set the darn thing using typical procedures for every other clock I
> have, but to no avail. Either I'm (1) too simple to perform this
> delicate task, or (2) experiencing a defective *new* clock.
> The "minutes" value changes just fine, but I can't get the "hours"
to
> change at all.
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:54:18 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Rivnuts
After breaking about 50 of those little dremmel cutter disks, I just drilled them out.
The drill worked well, just be careful not to enlarge the hole in the fiberglass.
USE GOGGLES!!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris [mailto:chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 10:39 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Rivnuts
>
>
> Whats the best way of removing Rivnets?, I have one where the
> bolt is solid
<SNIP>
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:55:21 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Twin-engine Delorean site
Um.. WOW!
When did you start this project? and when do you expect it to be "running"? (I dont say Done, because a project like this is never quite done!)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: twinenginedmc12 [mailto:twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 3:43 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Twin-engine Delorean site
>
>
> Hello.
>
> Some of you folks might remember my car from Memphis. In case
> anybody is interested, here is a site I just put together about its
> construction to date.
>
> http://www.gendreaumicro.com/tenpointtwo/11472index.htm
>
<SNIP>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 11:48:03 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Poll results for dmcnews
Lots of great ideas here. However, I did not see what would be my personal
fave: OEM-STYLE rims in a 15"-16" or 16"-17" configuration. The smaller
sidewall would give you better handling characteristics and looks great with
aftermarket rims, but the loss of the original spoked look and DMC logo just
isn't worth it to me. Am I the only one who likes this idea? Just my
$0.02.
-Mike A.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 9:39 PM
> Subject: [DML] Poll results for dmcnews
>
>
> >
> > The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
> > final results:
> >
> >
> > POLL QUESTION: Reproduced improved quality parts -
> > what parts would you definitely buy at
> > once they were made available?
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:01:14 EDT
From: JVC220@xxxxxxx
Subject: No fuel pressure
Hi everybody,
This is my first post to the DML. I also wanted to give my praise to
Ken for a great show in Memphis. I bought my D to restore. I replaced the
fuel pump and harness and installed it into the tank but when I put the tank
back in the car, the pump didn't work. So I took the tank back out and
checked the wires going to the fuel pump and found there was no power to the
pump. I checked it at the fuse box and also found that there was no power at
the fuse for the fuel pump. I checked everything I could think of but have
had no luck. Does anybody have any ideas? Could it be a faulty ground
somewhere?
Adam Sullivan
JVC220@xxxxxxx
# 17087
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:15:36 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
How many of you folks would be interested in a complete R-134a conversion kit for the DMC? This would include all of the O-rings, fittings, Ester oil, a new orifice tube, can tap, retrofit decals, system pressure tester, vent thermometer, and complete written instructions with illustrations (or possibly on video)?
With optional:
- new drier
- variable orifice valve for improved R-134a performance
- increased capacity condensor for greater cooling under R-134a
- R-134a included (probably cost more to ship than to just get locally though)
The instructions would be based upon Sanden/Sankyo's (the compressor manufacturer) own instructions for retrofitting our systems. You could do it all yourself, or take the whole kit to your favorite trusted mechanic.
If there is great enough interest, I will work up the pricing and assemble the kits. Please drop me a line privately if you are interested at dave.stragand(at)ketchum.com
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:32:12 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
List - I would like to put forth two points on this message:
Please note the statement that this person makes regarding a
hesitation (perhaps dread) at asking this list for advice and counsel
on this relatively straightforward question. When we foster this kind
of "fear to participate" from people who could make a significant
contribution to the DeLorean marque (given the chance), then we cannot
expect to see growth and development in the List, or in the car. Next
time you are itching to hit the "reply" button, remember this persons'
message.
Please note also that the number of members on this list has decreased
in the last few months. Could this hostile environment play a factor
in this negative growth of the List? I wonder ...
Now then ... in the "olden days", all good shade tree mechanics
rebuilt their brake master cylinders until the walls were too thin to
hold the pressure. I have (unconfirmed, but a good starting place)
kit part numbers Raybestos MK1544, and Girling/Lucas SP7243. To
rebuild a cylinder, you need a good brake hone, and some calipers for
measuring diameter, in addition to the rebuild parts.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1 - For a kinder, gentler List
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, hostmaster@xxxx wrote:
> I tried to search the DML archives for this, but simply don't have
> the time to bog through page after page of "my individual tastes are
> right so I must protest anything different".
>
> In fact, I greatly hesitate to pose this question in the Delorean
> debating list, since I'm certain the majority response will be
> attack, but it's the only place I know to ask.
> If you have not tried this idea, and you think I should be burned at
> the stake for even thinking about it, and are getting ready to "give
> me what I deserve", please hold off until all the useful and
> constructive statements are out of the way, first.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:32:14 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
Brian,
You have a defective AC blower 3rd & 4th speed motor circuit breaker. It is
part #106085G
priced at 8.60.
DMC Joe Help Club
DeLorean Web Mall: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:41 AM
Subject: [DML] heater fan shuts off now and then?
> Does anybody have an idea why my heater fan shuts off when running
> the ac.I'll have it on high then it with stop blowing or will blow on
> low,if you turn the fan switch to low then back to high it will work
> usauly.It does this quite a bit but not all the time.Could this be a
> bad switch or some type of power falure?Any thoughts would be
> appreciated
> very much thank you
>
> Brian bfreyguy@xxxxxxx
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:32:56 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
John,
You said:
"...You can replace the circuit breaker and it will do it again when
on the fourth speed. I wouldn't advise uping the current on the circuit
breaker, just don't run the fans on 4th speed...."
The factory installed 25 amp circuit breaker for the blower circuit is under
rated. The 30 Amp upgrade( part #106085G) is a 100% successful fix for this
problem. This circuit has no trouble handling the higher current breaker
upgrade, once this component is replaced there should be no further problems
with this circuit.
DMC Joe,
Help Club Director
DeLorean Web Mall: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] heater fan shuts off now and then?
> Brian, It's a common problem that the 4th speed in the heater fan/blower
> motor will shut off. You can replace the circuit breaker and it will do it
> again when on the fourth speed. I wouldn't advise uping the current on
the
> circuit breaker, just don't run the fans on 4th speed. Use 3rd as max. It
> won't hurt for a while then when they shut off goto 3rd. 3rd and 4th go
thru
> the CB and 1st and 2nd go from the switch. You also have a relay for 3rd
and
> 4th ea.
> John hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
> << Does anybody have an idea why my heater fan shuts off when running
> the ac.I'll have it on high then it with stop blowing or will blow on
> low,if you turn the fan switch to low then back to high it will work
> usauly.It does this quite a bit but not all the time.Could this be a
> bad switch or some type of power falure?Any thoughts would be
> appreciated
> v >>
>
>
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>
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:50:10 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
You may want to see if disconnecting the red wire from the stock door
lock module to the circuit breaker helps. In the archives, there is
something about the stock door lock module causing some sort of
battery drain. I used to have this problem until I installed a
Lockzilla. My battery will now stay charged for as long as I have
ever left it sit connected.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmeester" <meester@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
> My Delorean has the typical battery leak. If I don't drive it for
> three weeks the battery will be low or dead. I installed a brand
new
> Exide orbital battery. (These batteries are great for in the
> Delorean because they don't spill) I have temperarily resolved the
> problem by installing a battery disconect switch. Unfortunetly
this
> is not the root of the problem. I have searched the archives and
> discovered many owners have the same problem, and also resolve it
> with a battery disconect. The big question is where is the common
> leak at? I'm sure the clock and accessories are not running it
down
> in only a few weeks. Thanks for any help on this.
>
> Daniel Meester
> 81 5spd 23k miles
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 20:02:37 +0200
From: "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Where is the common electrical leak?
With me, it were the door lights. The switch which should have turned them
of was not working.
The effect is hardly noticable; it may also be happening with your dashboard
cabinet or your refrigerator
-----Original Message-----
From: dmeester [mailto:meester@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: dinsdag 25 juni 2002 2:09
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Where is the common electrical leak?
I'm sure the clock and accessories are not running it down
in only a few weeks. Thanks for any help on this.
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:14:45 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
I have installed a relay update kit from DMC Houston & the only
breaker that has a higher rating is the one for the radiator fans.
40A as opposed to 35A. The upgraded breakers use the same spade
connectors as the OEM breakers. There is only one 25A breaker for
the heater fan. Maybe you were thinking of the relays for speeds 3 &
4? The other one on the forward wall of the relay compartment is for
the radiator fans. The heater fan breaker has 4 spade connectors on
it & the radiator fan breaker has 2 spade connectors on it.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> I believe that the common cause for this is a weak circuit breaker.
> The breaker trips after some time in operation, and then resets
itself
> for the next cycle. If I recall correctly, there is an upgrade to
a
> higher rated breaker that still provides protection to the circuit,
> but has enough capacity to allow the fan to operate for an extended
> period of time. The upgraded breakers use "loop-style" connectors,
> whereas the OEM breakers have a spade connector. This means that
you
> have to change the connector ends on the wires to make them
compatible
> with the new breakers. The spade style connectors are more prone
to
> heat buildup and higher resistance than the loop connectors. There
> are two breakers, one for fan speeds 1 and 2, and the other for 3
and
> 4. The breakers are against the forward wall of the relay
compartment
> to the left of the fuse box (if memory serves). Unless somebody
else
> on the list has quick access to part numbers, I will update later
this
> evening.
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxx> wrote:
> > Does anybody have an idea why my heater fan shuts off when
running
> > the ac.I'll have it on high then it with stop blowing or will
blow
> on
> > low,if you turn the fan switch to low then back to high it will
work
> > usauly.It does this quite a bit but not all the time.Could this
be a
> > bad switch or some type of power falure?Any thoughts would be
> > appreciated
> > very much thank you
> >
> > Brian bfreyguy@xxxx
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:12:15 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
.
Complete assy is available at autozone. Duralast 11-2329 AutoZone had it for
$71, with a $45 refundable core charge.This is the same MC as a 1986 SAAB 900
Brake master cylinder #707950
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:33:12 -0400
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: New DML member in Miami..wants to learn
JT, I think you have a good head on your shoulders, seeing that DeLorean ownership should probably wait a couple years. A lot of people at your age want one *now* even though it may not be the right time. You remind me a lot of myself; there were a few times I wanted one going through college, even tried to get my hands on one, but in the end I realized it would have to be a dream deferred. I think if you keep at it over a long period of time (I waited about 8 years, between high school and leaving college, to finally get a DeLorean) it shows that you truly do want one and will most likely KEEP one after buying it.
Good luck and at least you have one early advantage I did not have when I was dreaming DeLorean dreams in my late teens and early 20s--the DML!
Richard
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 00:12:50 -0000
From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fw: Poll results for dmcnews
I might go for after-market center caps to put on the chrome rims I
plan on buying... but other than that I would not buy rims that look
the same. Maybe someone could start a poll specifically for this
product?
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