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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Rattling Brake Pads (rear)
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Memphis AC problem
From: Travis Graham <tgraham@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Halon-Blah Blah Blah
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Rattling Brake Pads (rear)
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
5. Quick temp gauge question
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Rattling Brake Pads (rear)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
8. The AZ-D is A-OK
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Setting the Clock
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Setting the Clock
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "dmeester" <meester@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Fuel injector cleaning
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. New DML member in Miami..wants to learn
From: JTDelorean@xxxxxxx
14. Re: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxx>
15. RE: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. a/c leak?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
17. RE: strange start problems << I have a similar issue
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. update on stalling, power loss...
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. heater fan shuts off now and then?
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
20. Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: hostmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Quick temp gauge question
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
22. Twin-engine Delorean site
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
24. Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 15:32:24 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rattling Brake Pads (rear)
Jan,
I am in the process of installing my brake calipers (front and rear)
and when I was buying some parts from, including the anti-squeel
shims, I asked the same question about the rear ones. They don't
exist or at least Rob didn't carry them (he had the front shims
only). You could probably "modify" front shims to work on the rear
by trimming them and making the pin holes larger.
If the pins are worn out or the pin holes on the pads are worn
larger then they should be replaced.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Yesterday I discovered a slight rattle at my left rear wheel
> when rolling. Since it disappeared when I touched the brakes
> ever so slightly (not slowing the car) I gathered it was the
> brake pads rattling.
> When checking for this I discovered my guess to be right, and
> found one of my wheelstuds to be stripped, so I had to replace
> that one with one I fortunately still had lying around on my
> broken hub carrier.
>
> But here's what surprised me; there were no anti rattle shims
> on the calipers on either side... Ths front DOES have them.
> I can't seem to find them in the partsmanual either.
> Even more surprising is that the rattle isn't the pads rattling
> against the cilinders or rotor, but on the retaining pins.
>
> Can anyone tell me what I can try to solve this?
> I think leaving it this way will cause the rattle to become
> even worse over time, but replacing the pads while still good
> is kind of a waste in my opinion. Maybe replacing the pins?
> Anyone know a cross-over for this so I don't have to order
> just two pins from overseas? If I had to costs would be tripled
> or more by the time I'd have them...
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> JAN van de Wouw
> Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
>
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
>
> ------------------------------
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 11:13:15 -0500
From: Travis Graham <tgraham@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Memphis AC problem
I think Marc is exactly right. I go through this ordeal every summer.
Go by a fuel station or car wash and use their industrial strength
vacuum. Compressed air just doesn't seem to cut it. From my
experience, it helps to clog up half of the nozzle of the vacuum with
paper towels, then use your finger to stop up the other half (the half
with the end of the run off tube jammed in there). A few blasts of this
and soon you'll see a stream of water gush out of the tube and your
problem will be solved!
This solution may only last you a year, but at 5 minutes per year, you
can do this for MANY years and still save from the time you'd spend
cutting out the evaporator box - and you wouldn't have any blemishes on
the box either.
Good luck!
Travis Graham
On Wednesday, June 19, 2002, at 07:03 PM, Delorean17@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Everything was fine until my AC drain line got plugged up(again). When
> I came home I removed both seats and carpet sections before it started
> to get
> musty in there. I can unclog the drain with compressed air but then
> it
> clogs back up within and hour.
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:26:28 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Halon-Blah Blah Blah
[Moderator Note: The Halon thread is probably drawing to a close, since another moderator is about to take over and I doubt anyone else would have allowed it to go this far. - Mike Substelny, DML moderating team]
Walt,
See what you started! This was not fun during high school chemistry class and
it's gone down hill from there.
I think I have a solution to the Halon argument thread:
1. Walt invites all DML members to Tampa (at his expense).
2. Walt ignites his car on fire.
3. The pro-Halon group sits in the car and releases the Halon.
4. The rest of us drink beer and watch while roasting marshmallows.
I fully understand that my proposed plan is somewhat flawed, inasmuch as I
understand that many people don't drink alcohol. So, to resolve that issue,
I'll bring bottled water for those nondrinkers to consume. We would have to
instate a rule against pouring the bottled water on the inflamed car, as this
would skew the highly scientific results of the Halon in a DeLorean. For
those who are on diets and can't eat marshmallows, I'd like to know if there
are any sugarfree marshmallow experts in the group? After we all finish our
discussions, research and postings about Halon, marshmallows and Elvis, maybe
we could talk about how to prevent a fire in a Delorean in the first place.
Or even more important issues, like how young is too young to own a DeLorean!
Now THAT was a quality thread! :-)
Anyone up for starting an HML (Halon Mailing List)?
Tongue firmly planted in cheek,
Daniel Deutsch
15779-3356-Orlando
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:37:50 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rattling Brake Pads (rear)
In a message dated 6/23/02 8:55:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jvdwouw@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< But here's what surprised me; there were no anti rattle shims
on the calipers on either side... Ths front DOES have them.
I can't seem to find them in the partsmanual either.
Even more surprising is that the rattle isn't the pads rattling
against the cilinders or rotor, but on the retaining pins. >>
My car does not have the front anti rattle shims. It seems I was the first to
disassemble the front calipers so I suspected this was OEM. I could have used
them though since I had a noticable rattle. Cured the rattle with Permatex
Disc Brake Quiet, both on the pads as instructed and on the pins where they
enter the caliper.
Jim 6147
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 13:32:23 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Quick temp gauge question
Where is the sending unit for the temp gauge?
my temp gauge just sits there .. does not move ...
sometimes if i am lucky it works.. sounds like a bad connection
if any can please let me know
thanks
ken
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:48:17 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rattling Brake Pads (rear)
Jan,
There is a difference between anti-rattle shims and anti-rattle springs. I
think that the former is a misnomer. The real purpose of the shims on the
front is to reduce squealing and do nothing to stop rattles. If the front
rattled anyway, then your rotors would be so warped that you would have
excessive pulsation on braking.
The anti-rattle springs on the rear are not listed in the parts manual and
(I think) never were installed at the factory. If the rear rotors were
perfectly surfaced, then there would be no rattle problems. The rear rotors
can be warped considerably before they will give a pulsing brake, but only a
slight warp will cause a rattle. The rattle on the rear happens when a high
spot on the rotor rubs against the brake pad lifting it up and then dropping
it after the high spot has passed. With each rotation of the rotor, the
process cycles giving a rhythmic click. With up to 4 pads doing this
independently, it can sound like a random rattle. The noise itself comes
from the metal part of the brake pad dropping on the retaining pins. This
condition does not in anyway compromise safety. It is just a plain
annoyance hearing it click.
The cure is to install anti-rattle springs, and these should be very simple
to make yourself if you cannot source them locally. A picture here would be
worth a 1000 words. If you would like, I can e-mail you a photo of what it
should look like. I just need to scan the negative (if I can find it.) How
the spring works is that the center of it hooks over the top outside center
of the brake pad with two straight arms hooked/sprung under the retaining
pins. (It is symmetrical about a vertical axis.) It provides enough
tension to stop a high spot on the rotor from shifting the pad. Simple eh?
An easy way to obtain the spring wire is to buy a generic throttle return
spring and only use the long straight end, but doing this x4 wastes a lot of
wire. You might also find the wire at a hobby shop. It definitely isn't
rocket science.
Walt
P.S. At the Memphis show, Ed Uding pronounced your name like Americans
spell, "Yawn". I always thought it was supposed to have a "J" sound. (yawn
:-)
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 16:32:10 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
In a message dated 6/21/02 8:28:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< If your looking at EFI for your DMC, there is also a DIY EFI system you
can build for about $150 and modify to fit on just about any engine. Do a
search for "MegaSquirt" for more info.
>>
Just checked out the megasquirt site. Very interesting.
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
Only concern right off the bat is that the PRV in the DMC-12 is odd fire. So
ignition triggering may lead to irratic or uneven idle mixtures. But if the
processor is fast enough as they claim, it may not be a problem. One solution
is to trigger via Hall Effect Transistor. But there is no mention of it as a
supported alternative... But the price is very reasonable..... Wish I had
known about this last year....
Jim 6147
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 19:05:05 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The AZ-D is A-OK
Greetings all,
I wanted to thank everyone for their concerned emails. The
wildfires burning in AZ are still very serious. They are somewhat northeast
of the Phoenix area and I really don't think they will reach us. It is very
sad what has happened and how so many poeple have lost their homes. I will
be working with my company to provide the essentials to those families in
need. I can share that information with you if you would like.
Thank you for your concern,
Matthew
VIN #10365
VIN #16816
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 04:53:42 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Setting the Clock
Hello List - Could I ask a simple, non-provocative question? At the
risk of sounding technically inept, how does one set the "hours" on
the OEM clock? Background - For the first time in 14+ years of
ownership, I have a functioning clock in Winged1. I have tried to
set the darn thing using typical procedures for every other clock I
have, but to no avail. Either I'm (1) too simple to perform this
delicate task, or (2) experiencing a defective *new* clock.
The "minutes" value changes just fine, but I can't get the "hours" to
change at all.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:34:14 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Setting the Clock
Defective clock. The left hole is for hours, works just like the
right hole for the minutes.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello List - Could I ask a simple, non-provocative question? At
the
> risk of sounding technically inept, how does one set the "hours" on
> the OEM clock?
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:09:25 -0000
From: "dmeester" <meester@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Where is the common electrical leak?
Hello Everyone,
My Delorean has the typical battery leak. If I don't drive it for
three weeks the battery will be low or dead. I installed a brand new
Exide orbital battery. (These batteries are great for in the
Delorean because they don't spill) I have temperarily resolved the
problem by installing a battery disconect switch. Unfortunetly this
is not the root of the problem. I have searched the archives and
discovered many owners have the same problem, and also resolve it
with a battery disconect. The big question is where is the common
leak at? I'm sure the clock and accessories are not running it down
in only a few weeks. Thanks for any help on this.
Daniel Meester
81 5spd 23k miles
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 05:09:59 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel injector cleaning
Willie - Removal of the fuel injectors is quite simple. Assuming you
know what they are, and where they are, they simply snap into
receptacles in the cylinder heads. They are held in with a three-
prong snap clip that attaches to the top flange of each receptacle.
The fuel delivery line has a banjo fitting that is attached to the
injector with a hollow bolt. "Crush washers" are used to seal the
banjo fitting to the injector. There is a rubber seal on each
injector to seal it in the receptacle. You pull straight up to
remove the injector, and remove the hollow bolt to separate it from
the fuel line. Installation is just the reverse. Extreme caution
should be taken when installing them, to ensure that there are no
leaks. Always use new washers, torque the hollow bolts per the shop
manual, and make sure the snap clips are in good shape, and that they
clip securely on the flange of each receptacle. If you are unsure of
your ability to do it, you should hire it out (see endless thread on
fire extinguishers!).
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> How easy is it to take your fuel injectors of yourself, or is that
something
> a mechanic should do? And how do you take them off?
>
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 01:44:58 EDT
From: JTDelorean@xxxxxxx
Subject: New DML member in Miami..wants to learn
Hello all,
I am a new face to the DML...been reading these messages for a few weeks and
thought that I would give a 'hello'. Without going into my whole life story,
I am a 20 year old college student who has had the "dream" for many-a-years.
I have somehow resisted the urge to put a small down payment and make large
payments for the next five years with little salary to this point. I have
managed to stay grounded and have instead promised myself that the DeLorean
will be my fist car I purchase when I am out of college and begin my
career...since I am a Junior thats 1 year 11months 12days 11hours (I'm
joking)..about 2 years to go anyhow. And for those who are thinking that I
would be foolish to rely soley on a DeLorean when just starting out my
life...I'm not, I already have a 'paid for' Plymouth Laser that is good for
another few years (I hope!).
Anyway another purpose of writing this was to see if I could contact any
DeLorean owners in the South Florida / Miami area. I am very much interested
in learning as much as I can about the DeLorean, so I don't go into buying
one blindly (when I do buy one). I'd be interested in someone who wouldn't
mind showing a newbie the ins and outs of their own D. Perhaps someone who
is into restoration in the area could use some extra (free of course)
manpower? Just a thought.
I really enjoy reading the DML and am more determined to buy the car now that
I see the group that I would be joining. DeLorean owners are amazing, the
way some of you go out of your way to check out a car or just a piece that
may be for sale(on Ebay or elsewhere) for another DMLer that can't see it
firsthand. It is truly an elite group that I can't wait to be a part of.
Thats enough rambling for one night...
I can be reached personally at: JTDeLorean(at)aol.com
JT
Vin #: To Be Continued...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 01:47:08 -0700
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
I have to say, that is very cool. It seems that even if the odd-fire
situation posed a problem, workarounds could be had pretty easily.
Josh
No D, just an intrigued kid that likes to get his hands dirty. ;-)
on 6/23/02 1:32 PM, jwit6@xxxxxx at jwit6@xxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 6/21/02 8:28:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << If your looking at EFI for your DMC, there is also a DIY EFI system you
> can build for about $150 and modify to fit on just about any engine. Do a
> search for "MegaSquirt" for more info.
>>>
> Just checked out the megasquirt site. Very interesting.
> http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
> Only concern right off the bat is that the PRV in the DMC-12 is odd fire. So
> ignition triggering may lead to irratic or uneven idle mixtures.
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:54:55 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
They have a mode to fire ALL injectors at each ignition pulse. This is a good replication of the constant flow the stock Bosch injector system has.
MegaSquirt may be a good platform for someone to develop a DeLorean specific EFI "kit" for a low cost. (There are some restrictions on re-sale of the megasquirt)
I had considered converting the Legend engine to EFI, but decided to hold off because it may destroy the historical value of the engine. My other DMC is getting a conversion, and MegaSquirt may be used to replace the factory PCM if it does not work without the automatic transmission (The factory computer may need to see communications with the trans computer).
Maybe DMC Joe can supply some statistics, but from just reading the DML for the past 7 years (or so) it seems most of the engine problems people report are fuel related. A modern EFI replacement would (IMHO) make an already reliable engine almost bulletproof.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jwit6@xxxxxx [mailto:jwit6@xxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 4:32 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
>
<SNIP>
> Only concern right off the bat is that the PRV in the DMC-12
> is odd fire. So
> ignition triggering may lead to irratic or uneven idle
> mixtures. But if the
> processor is fast enough as they claim, it may not be a
> problem. One solution
> is to trigger via Hall Effect Transistor. But there is no
> mention of it as a
> supported alternative... But the price is very
> reasonable..... Wish I had
> known about this last year....
> Jim 6147
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:23:07 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: a/c leak?
I have read DML postings where people explain that they put leak detector
dye in the a/c system and then find leaks all over the rubber hoses running
along the chassis. I understand that anywhere there is a refrigerant leak,
there will also be an oil residue present.
QUESTION #1:
So if the entire length of the hose becomes porous enough to be a leak,
wouldn't the hose also appear oily looking? I'm getting ready to rebuild my
compressor and replace the dryer & expansion orifice, so I don't want to
waste R-12 in a system that won't keep it.
QUESTION #2
Speaking of dyes to find leaks in the a/c system, can anyone say how long
these work before they break down? I heard a rumor that they have a short
useful life once put in the system.
I am familiar with the variety of dye that needs to be illuminated with an
ultraviolet light to become visible.
QUESTION #3
Is there another variety of dye that is visible without a UV light?
Thanks,
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:39:24 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: strange start problems << I have a similar issue
Good news. I got the car started! I pulled the wire to the thermo-time
switch and she huffed and puffed and turned over. It's initial hesitation I
blame on a build-up of fuel from the prior crankings. Now, it only takes
about one turn of the starter solenoid to get it cranked.
Now to the weird part. Once I unplugged the thermo-time switch, it cranks
fine. If I plug it back in, it also cranks fine. When the engine is cold
there is some sputtering if I hammer down on the gas, but slow pressure
rises the RPMs nicely.
Could it be that the thermo-time switch was stuck closed and unplugging it
caused it to be released, leaving it stuck open all the time?
Early on, I was checking the spark at the plug and I couldn't get one. Will
the spark jump out past the rubber sheath when grounded to the engine?
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:28:54 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: strange start problems << I have a similar issue
Pull a spark plug wire and see if you are getting a nice blue spark.
In the event you aren't two common things to check are the connections
on the ballast resistors, (those white things on the firewall on the
left side) and the pick-up coil in the distributer. If you have a nice
spark then the problem is fuel related but since you can smell fuel I
think the engine is getting fuel it just isn't "lighting it off".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:34:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: update on stalling, power loss...
Thanks for all the help so far guys. I have more information to present now on my cars situation.
Apparently my dad was finishing up changing a coolent hose, when he knocked a vacuum line off. He said the car instantly died. He put the line back on, but the car hasn't run right since. The warning lights on the right side of the dash aren't lighting up when the key is turned on, and the voltage regulator is kicking on erradicly. We pulled the battery bulb, and it was fine. I do have a 140 amp alternator from John Hervey in the car. And just for some more background... the car just had the clutch replaced a couple of weeks ago too... and it hasn't been driven much since then. We're thinking perhaps a ground was disturbed? Still perplexed.... -Louie Golden #10115
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 15:41:43 -0000
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
Subject: heater fan shuts off now and then?
Does anybody have an idea why my heater fan shuts off when running
the ac.I'll have it on high then it with stop blowing or will blow on
low,if you turn the fan switch to low then back to high it will work
usauly.It does this quite a bit but not all the time.Could this be a
bad switch or some type of power falure?Any thoughts would be
appreciated
very much thank you
Brian bfreyguy@xxxxxxx
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 13:13:07 -0400
From: hostmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
I tried to search the DML archives for this, but simply don't have
the time to bog through page after page of "my individual tastes are
right so I must protest anything different".
In fact, I greatly hesitate to pose this question in the Delorean
debating list, since I'm certain the majority response will be
attack, but it's the only place I know to ask.
I'm suspecting that my brake master cylinder needs replaced.
Actually, it's the assesment of my mechanic. (Please don't abuse my
mechanic - he's all I got, unless said abuser wishes to do my work
for me.)
He suggested that I might find a rebuild kit at an auto parts store,
rather than a whole new stock system. This seems reasonable, since
there's always the possibility that the problem is more than the
master cylinder. Easier to get that way, too.
Has anyone here ever had any experience with such a thing, that could
help me find a part number, type, etc? If you did try it, would you
try it again, etc?
My VIN is #2816 - it's an 1981, automatic.
If you have not tried this idea, and you think I should be burned at
the stake for even thinking about it, and are getting ready to "give
me what I deserve", please hold off until all the useful and
constructive statements are out of the way, first.
_______________________________
Get Your FREE Personal Email at:
http://www.Pittsburgh.com
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:46:49 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Quick temp gauge question
The sender is located on the right side of the engine block next to the oil
filter (P.M. 1/1/1 #22).
DMC Joe Help Club
DeLorean Web Mall: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 1:32 PM
Subject: [DML] Quick temp gauge question
>
> Where is the sending unit for the temp gauge?
>
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 19:43:14 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Twin-engine Delorean site
Hello.
Some of you folks might remember my car from Memphis. In case
anybody is interested, here is a site I just put together about its
construction to date.
http://www.gendreaumicro.com/tenpointtwo/11472index.htm
As an aside, I thought Dan Deutsch's summary of our fire extinguisher
rants was pretty funny. I like marshmallows.
Rick Gendreau, 11472
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 16:37:25 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: MEGA-SQUIRT - SDS EM-3 6D EFI PRV DMC?
In a message dated 6/23/02 9:50:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jwit6@xxxxxx
writes:
<< Just checked out the megasquirt site. Very interesting.
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
Only concern right off the bat is that the PRV in the DMC-12 is odd fire. So
ignition triggering may lead to irratic or uneven idle mixtures >>
Heard back from the MegaSquirt guys.
They said "Odd-fire is in the works. And, you can trigger with a hall sensor."
Jim 6147
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:58:19 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: heater fan shuts off now and then?
I believe that the common cause for this is a weak circuit breaker.
The breaker trips after some time in operation, and then resets itself
for the next cycle. If I recall correctly, there is an upgrade to a
higher rated breaker that still provides protection to the circuit,
but has enough capacity to allow the fan to operate for an extended
period of time. The upgraded breakers use "loop-style" connectors,
whereas the OEM breakers have a spade connector. This means that you
have to change the connector ends on the wires to make them compatible
with the new breakers. The spade style connectors are more prone to
heat buildup and higher resistance than the loop connectors. There
are two breakers, one for fan speeds 1 and 2, and the other for 3 and
4. The breakers are against the forward wall of the relay compartment
to the left of the fuse box (if memory serves). Unless somebody else
on the list has quick access to part numbers, I will update later this
evening.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxx> wrote:
> Does anybody have an idea why my heater fan shuts off when running
> the ac.I'll have it on high then it with stop blowing or will blow
on
> low,if you turn the fan switch to low then back to high it will work
> usauly.It does this quite a bit but not all the time.Could this be a
> bad switch or some type of power falure?Any thoughts would be
> appreciated
> very much thank you
>
> Brian bfreyguy@xxxx
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Message: 25
Date: 25 Jun 2002 01:39:45 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews
The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:
POLL QUESTION: Reproduced improved quality parts -
what parts would you definitely buy at
once they were made available?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Bracket for T-panel and torsion bar brackets, 3 votes, 6.98%
- AC Illumination Panel, engraved face in plastic, 3 votes, 6.98%
- Backlit instruments - like on new cars, 2 votes, 4.65%
- Complete Silicone Hose set for the whole car, 3 votes, 6.98%
- Front Fascia (non warping), 0 votes, 0.00%
- Rear Fascia (non warping), 0 votes, 0.00%
- LH Torsion Bar, 2 votes, 4.65%
- Carpet, 2 votes, 4.65%
- Stainless Steel Frame, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Hood, with lines and fuel flap, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Hood, with lines, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Brand new AC system, 2 votes, 4.65%
- Stainless Suspension Parts in stainless (for instance control arms), 2 votes, 4.65%
- Front Fender, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Stainless braided brake lines, 3 votes, 6.98%
- Stainless braided fuel lines, 4 votes, 9.30%
- New motor and gearbox (for instance 2002 PRV and 2002 Renault gearbox), 1 votes, 2.33%
- Outside temperature device fitting the centre console clockhole, 2 votes, 4.65%
- Power Steering retrofitted, 1 votes, 2.33%
- ABS brakes retrofitted, 1 votes, 2.33%
- "Door Ajar" voice module, 2 votes, 4.65%
- New centre pad, steering wheel, 1 votes, 2.33%
- Wide angle side mirrors, 6 votes, 13.95%
- Ski Rack, 1 votes, 2.33%
- Other parts in stainless (hidden places), 2 votes, 4.65%
INDIVIDUAL VOTES
- Bracket for T-panel and torsion bar brackets
- jvdwouw@xxxxxxx
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- AC Illumination Panel, engraved face in plastic
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Backlit instruments - like on new cars
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
- Complete Silicone Hose set for the whole car
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Front Fascia (non warping)
- Rear Fascia (non warping)
- LH Torsion Bar
- tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Carpet
- tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Stainless Steel Frame
- Hood, with lines and fuel flap
- Hood, with lines
- Brand new AC system
- jvdwouw@xxxxxxx
- tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Stainless Suspension Parts in stainless (for instance control arms)
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Front Fender
- Stainless braided brake lines
- theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
- tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Stainless braided fuel lines
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
- tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- New motor and gearbox (for instance 2002 PRV and 2002 Renault gearbox)
- _designer_@xxxxxxxxx
- Outside temperature device fitting the centre console clockhole
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Power Steering retrofitted
- _designer_@xxxxxxxxx
- ABS brakes retrofitted
- _designer_@xxxxxxxxx
- "Door Ajar" voice module
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- _designer_@xxxxxxxxx
- New centre pad, steering wheel
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- Wide angle side mirrors
- roli@xxxxxxxxxxx
- jvdwouw@xxxxxxx
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
- edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx
- Ski Rack
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- Other parts in stainless (hidden places)
- delorean@xxxxxxxxx
- mannings@xxxxxxxxxxxx
For more information about this group, please visit
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/
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