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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: upper RR screen
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Power Steering
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Ypsilanti Orphan Car Show
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Update: Memphis Caravan from the North East
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. body bolts??
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Wire-Colors
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Sidelight wiring
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Rack and Pinion vs. Power Steering. (was: Power Steering).
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Front End Drop
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Back-up Lights
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 11:37:24 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
> I don't think you have to compress the springs. Just unbolt the lower
shock
> eyelet from the lower carrier pivot bolt once the car is jacked up and let
> the shock and spring hang there. The shock itself should be what's
limiting
> the lower travel of the entire rear suspension. Haven't had mine apart
that
> way myself yet...so correct me if I'm wrong.
Jim, I wouldn't say you are wrong, but I wouldn't say you are completely
right either. I have heard two scenarios on the DML. One guy was able to
put a jack under the shock eyelet to support it while he removed the bolt to
uncompressed/recompressed the spring. Unlike the front spring, there isn't
as much tension on the rear while the suspension is hanging, but still if
that shock slips to one side it wouldn't be a pretty sight. Another guy
didn't know better and removed the nut holding the top of the shock to the
frame. This let it pop loose. I suppose this would be okay as long as you
gave it plenty of room. Otherwise it would break a bone -- not quite my
style.
> You don't need to remove the springs at all. Replacing
> those bearings really is an easy job. Don't make it harder than it has to
> be.
Rob, if you didn't remove the rear hub carrier (and hence the spring, too)
then how did you fit that Harbor Freight press on there? [For those of you
not following this, we had an off list discussion.]
I talked with Warren @ DMC, and this is what he told me: Push out the
outboard drive shaft by giving it a few "love taps". Remove the circlip and
use an air hammer to drive the old bearing out being careful not to damage
the hub carrier. He said that an air hammer is almost a necessity.
Installing the new bearing is the reverse of the removal procedure only
don't use an air hammer because it will damage the bearing. Use a special
tool made just for driving in bearings or a large socket might do.
Walt
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 11:38:36 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: upper RR screen
I got a close look at a very warped screen from a friend's car last week.
It seemed to have warped in a similar fashion to the eyebrows of a front
fascia. We were considering heating the plastic up with a heat gun to
straighten it, but we ran out of time and chickened out. Can anyone say
what happens when you heat this plastic? Does it shrink or just get soft &
limp?
I would like to know if the screen warping has anything to do with the
distortion of the under body under the T-panel from having it pull apart
with age. It seems that for looks you could make some metal brackets to fit
under the screen to reinforce it. Are the vents/air holes necessary?
Walt
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 17:54:08 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Steering
If you do manage to install power steering you will lose some of the
"road feel" that you get having manual steering. In the meantime it
doesn't have to be harder than it should. Grease the tie rod ends and
keep at least 23 psi in the front tires. Try to turn the wheels as you
are moving, even a little is a help. Of course it is certainly busy
trying to turn the wheel, shift a 5-speed, clutch, and watch not to
hit the other cars when getting out of a tight parking spot on a hill!
If you want luxury an automatic is nice especially in heavy traffic.
The unfortunate truth is that as we owners get older we appreciate
some of these "luxuries" more. It is difficult for us as we get older
to even get in and out of the car! Someone with arthritis in the hands
or the arms would really like power steering, it could mean the
difference between keeping and enjoying the car or having to sell it.
Like cruise control many owners would like it if it can be done
without "hacking up" the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "evm2k" <evm2k@xxxx> wrote:
> I did check out my rack & front end and found it in decent shape. I
> even went into a few other Deloreans and checked them out. They all
> seemed to be the same. Very hard. When I'm driving, there's no
> problem but it's when I'm manuevering around town and parking is
when
> I wish that it did have power steering. Especially in San
> Francisco!!!
>
> Is this rack and pinion an exclusive Delorean design or is there
> another car that shares the same components? If anyone knows,
please
> let me know so that I can do some further research.
>
> Richard
> Danville, Ca
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> > WHY?
> >
> > If you feel you have the need for power steering, you may have
some
> problem with your car.
> >
> > Even when parallel parking, I have no problem with the manual
> steering on both of my DeLoreans.
> >
> > Inspect your rack. Make sure it is properly lubricated. Also do
a
> general front end inspection (tie rods, ball joints....blah blah)
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:00:28 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ypsilanti Orphan Car Show
The Sixth Annual Ypsilanti Orphan Car Show is this Sunday, June 2nd.
Ypsilanti is not too far from Detroit. Are any DeLorean owners taking
their cars this year?
Here's a newspaper article:
- Mike Substelny
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 11:43:53 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update: Memphis Caravan from the North East
Some Ohio DeLoreans plan to meet in Cincinnati on Wednesday, June 12.
We will gather at 2 PM at the Bob Evans Restaurant near Ohio Exit 19 of
I-71.
We will spend that night in Bowling Green, KY. We are staying at the
Country Hearth Inn, right next door to the Corvette Museum.
http://www.countryhearth.com/hotels/ky-bowlinggreen.htm
Thursday the 13th we will have breakfast at the Country Hearth and tour
the Corvette Museum bright and early. We plan to get on the road no
later than 11:00 AM (it could be earlier if we are not waiting for
someone). Allowing for breaks, the 5 hour drive from Bowling Green
should put us in Memphis by 4:30 on Thursday.
We will stop every 2 hours or so for fuel and restroom breaks. We will
keep in touch using Family Service Radios tuned to channel 12.
- Mike Substelny
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:24:53 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: body bolts??
Do the body bolts have a recommended torque value?
Is there a nut or something on the other end of the bolt? I assume so.
Are the other ends of the bolts visible from underneath the car?
Adam
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:32:20 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Wire-Colors
On 29-05-2002, Dan wrote:
> I'm currently preparing my car for it's first MOT (road legal
> testing) over here in the UK. I have to put sidelights in the
> headlights as a legal requirement (orange isn't allowed) and so I
> need to know which wire feeds the sidelight element of the bulb in
> the indicator? Black red and green... Black being obvious but which
> of the other two feed the sidelight?
Red w/ stripe is for the position lights,
Green w/ stripe is for the blinkers,
Black is Ground.
On the electrical schematic the wire codes are
RO (Red-Orange) RH side Tail-, Marker- and position lights
RB (Red-Black) LH side Tail-, Marker- and Posiotion lights
GW (Green-White) RH side Directional/Blinker
GR (Green-Red) LH side Directional/Blinker
If the markers are allowed in the UK, but you also need to have
blinkers on the side you can easilye rewire them to do both.
I have mentioned this before, check msg# 18378 and further
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/18378>
for an explanation on how and why this works.
Good luck,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:18:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sidelight wiring
If your talking about the side marker lamps and front parking lamp which are
in the same circuit the wire color is as follows:
LH: RED/BLACK
RH: RED/ORANGE
DMC Joe
See You In Memphis!
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "funkymcfly" <danielpwillis@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 12:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Sidelight wiring
> Hi,
>
> I'm currently preparing my car for it's first MOT (road legal
> testing) over here in the UK. I have to put sidelights in the
> headlights as a legal requirement (orange isn't allowed) and so I
> need to know which wire feeds the sidelight element of the bulb in
> the indicator? Black red and green... Black being obvious but which
> of the other two feed the sidelight?
>
> Cheers!
>
> Dan
> Vin#5284 - Hana - www.projectmadness.com
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 19:35:29 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rack and Pinion vs. Power Steering. (was: Power Steering).
If your steering is that difficult, than it's time for a servicing of
some sort. I have the original steering rack, 2 properly inflated
tires, and lubed steering knuckles and suspension. Even though
it is noticably more resistant than my truck, I can still turn with
only 1 hand. Most time when I do drive thru parking lots, I usually
steer with my left hand open, palm pressing against the wheel,
and I have no problems. Now if your talking about turning wheels
lock to lock while stopped, that is always going to be difficult.
Even on trucks with power steering, I need to use 2 hands. So a
little grease in the right places on the front of your car, and you
should be good to go!
As far as power steering removing the feel of the road, this is
absolutely true. The reason being I have found is that power
steering gives control to the road to direct the car, rather than the
driver. A perfect example is where I live. Because of traffic, and
where I work, my commute to work usually takes me thru the
industrial areas of town. And this means HEAVY truck traffic.
Because of the consistant truck traffic, the pavement depresses,
and you will end up with wide grooves that snake all over.
Particualy interections where they have to both cross, and make
wide turns. Both my D, and my old car would feel them, but will
not follow them. When they curve a direction, my car just keeps
going straight, and drives out of them. Just the opposite with
powersteering. I drove my friends '00 Cavalier back when my car
was in the shop over the very same roads. The Cavalier kept
wanting to follow the grooves in the road, so I had to keep a tight
grip to compensate.
You also cannot take hard corners as smooth with
powersteering as you can rack and pinion. Powersteering has
(IMO) a nasty habit of trying to snap back straight after the
wheels are turned. So with hard cornering, I have to fight the
wheel to keep it from turning back. Turn too quick, and you'll over
shoot. Turn back too fast, and you'll over correct and can loose
control. With R&P, I just relieve my grip, and the wheel will turn
only as quickly as I let it, without much force needed at all.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "evm2k" <evm2k@xxxx> wrote:
> I did check out my rack & front end and found it in decent
shape. I
> even went into a few other Deloreans and checked them out.
They all
> seemed to be the same. Very hard. When I'm driving, there's
no
> problem but it's when I'm manuevering around town and
parking is when
> I wish that it did have power steering. Especially in San
> Francisco!!!
>
> Is this rack and pinion an exclusive Delorean design or is
there
> another car that shares the same components? If anyone
knows, please
> let me know so that I can do some further research.
>
> Richard
> Danville, Ca
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> > WHY?
> >
> > If you feel you have the need for power steering, you may
have some
> problem with your car.
> >
> > Even when parallel parking, I have no problem with the
manual
> steering on both of my DeLoreans.
> >
> > Inspect your rack. Make sure it is properly lubricated. Also
do a
> general front end inspection (tie rods, ball joints....blah blah)
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:06:43 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front End Drop
Check your transmission mounting brackets. I have notices an increasing
incidence of stress cracking of these components (PM 4/1/1 # 41, 42, 43,
56).
DMC Joe
See You In Memphis
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Golden" <Don.Golden@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Front End Drop
> Hi All
>
> Something new came up which is baffling. When shifting out of 1st gear the
right front of the car seems to drop and I feel a slight tendency to swerve
to the left. This seems to be more pronounced the higher the revs are when I
shift out of 1st. I hear no clunks or other sounds.
>
> Other than this the car seems to drive fine. I don't notice this in any
other gear. It's almost as if this is caused by either 1) the front weight
shift as the car decelerates, or 2) the engine torque as it decreases revs,
or a combination of both. This isn't noticeable during braking, only during
accelerating out of 1st gear.
>
> A visual check suggests that the engine mounts are OK. I tried another
test: with the parking brake on and the the car in 1st gear I let the
clutch out slowly. The engine doesn't twist (there is a slight downward
movement). The same thing happens in with the tranny in reverse (except the
engine moves upward slightly).
>
> I can't see any visual problems with the shocks/springs, ball joints, tie
rod ends. I'm at a loss of where to go next. Could the trailing arm bolts or
transmission mounts have a similar effect?
>
> Thanks Don VIN 4835
>
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 15:45:29 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Back-up Lights
The Reverse Light Switch PM 4/1/1 #31 has a high failure rate. In most
cases replacing this part will restore your reverse light operation.
DMC Joe
See You In Memphis!
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: <jwit6@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Back-up Lights
> In a message dated 5/28/02 11:22:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> thesmokingman@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << They functioned on and off before, but now no matter how I jiggle the
> shifter I cant get them
> to come on. Any suggestions appreciated.
> >>
> Get under the car and connect the two spade connectors on the backup light
> switch on the tranny housing together. You should have lights. Check the
> switch with an ohm meter with the car in reverse. Shoul have continuity
when
> in reverse. If the switch is good it's in the wiring. Start with the
wiring
> diagram.
>
> Jim 6147
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