To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: fast idle
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Ignition switch
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: no start problem
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
5. RE: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail]
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Stainless Door Guides for sale
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: no start problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: fast idle
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Ok... definitely an odd question...
From: scrapy41@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Type of fuel to use
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
12. brake bleeding revisited...
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DeLorean in Video
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Cruise control pics up
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. exhaust manifold
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
17. RE: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Type of fuel to use
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. RE: Ok... definitely an odd question...
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
21. RE: brake bleeding revisited...
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
22. If of a nervous disposition move to your next message!!!
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Best sources
From: "mccarthy410" <mccarthy410@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail]
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: exhaust manifold
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:31:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
The battery is not tied down (I don't even have the strap). While I
suppose it is possible that it's the battery, I often hear 2 clunks, which
sounds like one from each side of the car. I suppose it could be one
corner of the battery hitting and then the other... but it just sounds
like the noise is further back.
Where can I get a tie-down strap? I don't suppose this would be a common
Kragen part. Without the strap, is there anything that's safe to wedge in
between the battery and the walls of its cubby hole? A pillow perhaps? I
just don't want to start a fire. :)
-Christian
On Tue, 21 May 2002, Scott Mueller wrote:
> Christian,
> You probably have already checked that your jack in the front compartment is
> not loose and there are no loose parts in the spare tire well. Is the
> battery tied down.
>
> Just some options.
>
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 1:05 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Clunk (not TAB or axles)
>
>
> I've been trying to figure out what my rear clunk sound is ever since I
> bought my car. This year, I had the rear axles serviced, complete with new
> cv boots and grease. Pushing the axles back and forth makes no clunk. I
> also just had the famous Toby Bolts installed. My old TABs weren't bent at
> all and actually looked like they were in pretty good shape. The new bolts
> put my mind to rest a little better.
>
> But still I have the clunk. It hasn't changed at all over the past 2
> years, so although it's not getting worse, none of what I've done has made
> it even marginally better.
>
>
> -Christian
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 01:47:52 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: fast idle
Lee, Check to see if the throttle body lever is going all the way down and it
isn't binding. Also, make sure the ground and the hot on the switch is
working ok. You can check that with an ohm meter or a light with wires. If
that seems to be all ok, the the idle speed thermister in the internal water
pipe may not be sending the signal up to the ECU or the connector may have
come off in all the working. The only other thing to check on top, is the
idle speed motor turning the cut off in the tube.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:33:35 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ignition switch
My car has a very 'nice' push button start system,
which up to now I have though to be "different"
However it is now starting to get in the way of my
grand plans and schemes.
Does any one out there have an Ignition switch, key
and steering column lock the wish to sell so I can go
back to the key start as all of mine has been taken
out, and the is a big gap in the steering column.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Everything you'll ever need on one web page
from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
http://uk.my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 06:54:17 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: no start problem
David,
Your injector should not pop out. Make sure that you have the 3 pronged
retaining clip seated properly.
Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx [mailto:Delorean17@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 7:08 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] no start problem
Hi,
Not sure if this is your problem but it just happened to me today after
school. I drove the car for about 15 miles and then shut it off. When I
came back, the car would just sputter and not stay running. I opened up the
engine compartment to find that one of the fuel injectors popped out of
place, I snapped it back into place and the car started right up. Just
something to check.
David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:04:24 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Hi Again,
Thanks to Bob Zilla (who identified the cause), Martin Gutkowski (who actually made me understand how the locks work), and Darryl Tinnerstet, I have isolated the weird issue with my doors not unlocking with the key off. It seems there is a little diode in-line with (and right next to) the "lock doors" light that has gone bad. As much as I stared at the wiring diagram, I didn't notice the diode as it's not shown as a "component" per se, but instead as just a part of the wiring. Unhooking the door lock light has worked as a temporary solution, but I'll be replacing that diode tonight to correct it properly.
Now it's back to work on other items. Unlike Steve Peck's car, I'm not quite "Memphis-ready" yet. I think putting the body back on migh be a good first step in that direction, eh?
Thanks again to everyone for the help!
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Stragand, Dave
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 9:41 AM
Hi All,
It seems I have a rather unusual electrical problem with my door locks. and I was hoping some of you electronics gurus might be able to shed some insight onto the situation.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 02:40:13 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail]
Martin and Group, I'll get on my soap box again. I respect the engineering
background of all trying to better the De Lorean, But The Fan Fix is not Just
a Box. It is as I described earlier a very good working unit that eliminates
several problems in the coolant fan circuit and in the cars wiring problems.
Yes, The Fan Zilla has been around longer and it has it's pluses and minus
just like the Fan Fix, I respect that, but I didn't just throw a bunch of
parts in a Box as your last post describes it and am trying to fool the DML
list of people. It has a name whether you like it or not and it works for a
simple price of $99.95. If you want to spend more money and buy The Fan
Zilla, then do so. One of your neighbors talked to me a year ago about my
unit and the Fan Zilla and he wound up buying the Fan Zilla and then wanted
to convert The Fan Zilla to do things The Fan Fix was doing. Figure that out.
I really have a hard time understanding why so many very intelligent people
on the list just want to critisize other peoples work. If you don't like
something someone is building, then either don't buy it or buy it and then
tear it apart and better if for yourself or talk to the builder about
bettering their unit. It's not like we have thousands of potentials to sell,
so it's not a get rich quick thing. Parts have to be sourced, bought in most
of the time quantity, and parts used that are easily replaceable. That's what
mine does and Bob's.
So many people talk a lot about things to do to the car, but very few do
anything about it. I do something about it. Look at my web site for the De
Lorean parts that I have sourced and stock. It ain't shabby. Try to find some
of them.
I also try to make your De Lorean experience a little better on the pocket
book.
Let me know the next time someone needs a water pump. I have them in stock,
even for Darryls pully.
Have a good one.
John Hervey
Special T Auto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 15:14:47 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Door Guides for sale
Hi all
I have an un-used set of stainless door guides to suit early cars in the
range around mine - 1458. I bought these in error and they've never been
used. Mail me off-list for photos.
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 14:38:05 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: no start problem
I would start with the fuel system. For whatever reason there does not
seem to be enough fuel pressure to get the fuel to the engine. Pull
the fuel filter and see if you are getting fuel to there. Replace the
filter and see if any is getting to the mixture unit by loosening one
of the banjo fittings from the filter. Do this point by point. If you
are getting fuel it could be for whatever reason that the pressure is
too low. To pin down the problem might require a fuel pressure tester.
Before running out and getting one dig into the fuel tank and make
sure that everything is in good condition and the pick-up hose is not
kinked or split or soft. Maybe you are out of gas? It seems to me many
of the fuel system problems start in the fuel tank from either
bad-stored gas or deterierated parts. If there is ANY dirt in the tank
you can be sure it is throughout the fuel system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, mgailey@xxxx wrote:
> Alright. Let's see who can figure this one out.
> My car will turn over but not start. When I turn the key, I can hear
the fuel
> pump energize and pump for a second or two. If I shoot some starting
fluid or
> pour some gas down the intake, she fires up immediately and will run
for a short
> period of time until the gas is used up. Any ideas?
> On a side note, I was driving through my small neighborhood the
other day and
> saw a couple of guys pushing a Pantera off to the side of the road.
I stopped to
> help them and the dude said, "Man, she runs fine and then she'll
just die on me
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 14:50:32 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fast idle
You have an air leak somewhere. A common place to start is the cold
start pipe. Make sure it is in and the "O" ring is still there. Make
sure the throttle plates are closing all the way, the 3 brass screws
are lightly seated, the hoses to the idle motor are on tight and not
leaking. If any work has been done lately on the motor go back over
it, maybe you knocked a vacuum hose off somewhere. Make sure that a
floor mat isn't preventing the gas pedal from retuning all the way to
idle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Meyerleem@xxxx wrote:
> thanks Robert; the throttle spool seems to be fine. But when I start
the car
> it still goes up to 3000 RPM. I assume there must be something in
the idle
> control that isn't functioning properly. It worked fine before the
tune-up.
> What would make the RPM;s jump to this speed and where do I start to
look for
> a way to slow it down. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had
problems
> with idle speed, please help!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:23:13 -0400
From: scrapy41@xxxxxxx
Subject: Ok... definitely an odd question...
Hello Folks,
There have been many threads in the past about the Deloreans ability to carry people of taller stature, and I was wondering if there are any owners who are slightly, well, vertically challenged? I myself have never actually rode in a Delorean and I am just pushing 5'5 . I was wondering if the car is comfortable to drive for someone on the shorter side.
By the way, I just have to say that this is a really great list. I've been sort of a lurker for over two years and everyday there is something interesting to read. Hopefully someday I can join this great group as an owner. I was really close about two years ago, but then a little thing called "marriage" came into the picture and my dream of owning a Delorean turned into a diamond ring and about 250 wedding favors :-) Right now we're in the market for some crummy "Mini suv" ?- Bummer -.
Well, thanks for keeping the list such a great place and for also keeping the dream alive for guys like myself.
Rich
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 11:28:43 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Type of fuel to use
> The owner's manual for the "American" DMC recommends using 87 Octane fuel.
> The "European" DMC owner's manual recommends a different Octane, as their
> ratings are computed differently "across the pond". Fill'er up with 87
> Octane, and Drive Stainless. Robert VIN 6924
Good thing since gas isn't cheap these days. However, is there a
problem in using higher octane fuels? Someone talked about modified engines
and missfires once. I have never heard of using too high of an octane
before here. What is the deal?
And by the way, for all of you who have responded to my inquires, I
can't thank you enough. It is great to see such friendly people who are
willing to educate outsiders all about DeLorean issues and keep the dream
alive for all us hopefuls. Thank you.
-Mike
> From: "mccarthy410" <mccarthy410@xxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Type of fuel to use
> Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 03:18:21 -0000
>
> Hi,
>
> I am a new prospective owner of a DeLorean, before I buy, I'm
> gathering all info I can. One question comes to mind, I know the
> manual and several sites say to use 91 Octane fuel, only thing close
> to it is 93, and that does get expensive. Can 87 or 89 Octane be
> used with no ill effects? I'm told how the Europeans and how the U.S.
> rates gasoline are two different things, any truth to this?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:49:31 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: brake bleeding revisited...
Hello all,
Based on feedback from the list, I've decided NOT to use the vacuum method
to bleed my brakes, but instead found this simple pressure bleeder called
"Eezibleed" (http://www.aep.bigstep.com/Eezi.htm) for about $30. They
aren't that easy to find here in the states, but I should be getting mine
tomorrow. I'll report back how well it works.
Also, I need to find four replacement bleeder screw rubber caps, and
Autozone didn't carry any. Does anyone know exactly what size they are, and
where I can get some locally? (I don't want to pay $10 shipping from a D
vendor for 1OZ of $.39 parts).
thanks,
-Hank #1619
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 14:14:24 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean in Video
Folks:
I just spotted a DeLorean on the news. The short clipping was for 5 to 7
seconds long. It was from a news review of the top CD hits on cable TV's NY1
(New York Times). It shows a singer by the name of "Moby" sitting in the
driver's seat (with the door opened) and singing his hit song.
The news clipping also featured other singers and with their "newer" exotic
cars. You can see this clipping on NY1 in the NYC area if you have cable TV.
The news is looped, so you will see the clipping at least once every hour.
BTW. The DeLorean appearance seem very clean and no "sagging" headliner.
The headliner looks new... I wonder who's own the DeLorean?
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 12:52:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cruise control pics up
Sorry about that Mike... the pictures are under the DMC News Egroups site... here's the address- http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ . The pictures can be found under the photo section in the folder "Dakota Cruise Control Pics". Hope this helps :-)
Louie Golden
#10115 Sanford, NC
--- "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>My comp said that the document could not be found. Are you sure the address
>is correct?
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
_____________________________________________________________
Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with email@xxxxxxxxxxxxx by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 14:55:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
I'll certainly check that out, but I'm sure it's not the case. I've had
this problem for the 2 years that I've owned the car, and durring this
time, I've had the original springs taken out, cut (to lower), and put
back in. Then later I had those springs taken out (too low for daily
driving), and had new springs and PJ shocks put in. So I've had a lot of
work done in this area, but the clunking has remained constant.
-Christian
On Wed, 22 May 2002, evm2k wrote:
> Christian:
>
> I once had that happened to me when about 35 years ago on my old 72
> Pinto. Something to check is all of your springs to see if any of
> them have broke. The front coil spring broke on Pinto and would make
> this loud clunking noise everytime I turned or went over a bump. The
> spring didn't fall out because the shock absorber was in the middle
> of it. But look in the suspension area especially up at the very top
> of the spring. Also check the shocks to make sure that the nuts on
> top haven't come loose. Another item to check is to see if a rubber
> bushing at the top of the rear springs is missing. You should have
> one for each side.
>
> Good luck
>
> Richard Lew
> Danville, California
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:26:01 -0400
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: exhaust manifold
I'm expecting to get my new manifold gaskets tomorrow in the mail. But i
was wondering if you recommend putting RTV on the gasket?
Thanks
Willie
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:52:17 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
Use some pieces of wood. Contact the DeLorean vendors about a replacement
strap.
Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 12:32 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Clunk (not TAB or axles)
The battery is not tied down (I don't even have the strap). While I
suppose it is possible that it's the battery, I often hear 2 clunks, which
sounds like one from each side of the car. I suppose it could be one
corner of the battery hitting and then the other... but it just sounds
like the noise is further back.
Where can I get a tie-down strap? I don't suppose this would be a common
Kragen part. Without the strap, is there anything that's safe to wedge in
between the battery and the walls of its cubby hole? A pillow perhaps? I
just don't want to start a fire. :)
-Christian
On Tue, 21 May 2002, Scott Mueller wrote:
> Christian,
> You probably have already checked that your jack in the front compartment
is
> not loose and there are no loose parts in the spare tire well. Is the
> battery tied down.
>
> Just some options.
>
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 16:57:23 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Type of fuel to use
Mike,
Yes, there can be a problem using higher octane fuel than what you need.
Higher octane fuel doesn't burn as easily. This is to prevent the fuel from
igniting too soon in a high performance engine with high compression. When
you use high octane fuel in an engine designed for lower octane, you can
get incomplete burning of the fuel, leading to engine deposits in the
combustion chamber. Over a period of time these deposits can build up and
cause problems with the engine. A few tanks of premium won't hurt anything,
but sustained use will.
So, in an un-modified DeLorean engine, stick with the 87 octane.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 11:28 AM 5/22/02 -0400, you wrote:
> Good thing since gas isn't cheap these days. However, is there a
>problem in using higher octane fuels? Someone talked about modified engines
>and missfires once. I have never heard of using too high of an octane
>before here. What is the deal?
> And by the way, for all of you who have responded to my inquires, I
>can't thank you enough. It is great to see such friendly people who are
>willing to educate outsiders all about DeLorean issues and keep the dream
>alive for all us hopefuls. Thank you.
>
>-Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:30:59 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clunk (not TAB or axles)
I had something like this in my car once. It turned out that the power
antenna
bracket had worked loose and was moving side to side hitting the fiberglass. Just an
idea.
Jason #5903
> I've been trying to figure out what my rear clunk sound is ever since I
> bought my car. This year, I had the rear axles serviced, complete with new
> cv boots and grease. Pushing the axles back and forth makes no clunk. I
> also just had the famous Toby Bolts installed. My old TABs weren't bent at
> all and actually looked like they were in pretty good shape. The new bolts
> put my mind to rest a little better.
these bolts?
>
> Does anyone else have any suggestions? I'm sure that as common as this
> problem is, someone must have an answer. :)
>
> -Christian
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:26:25 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Ok... definitely an odd question...
Rich,
I am 5' 7.596" tall. The car fits me like a glove. The seat adjusts front
to rear and the back is adjustable. The steering wheel can be moved up/down
and front/rear. Come to a show and have a seat.
Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: scrapy41@xxxxxxx [mailto:scrapy41@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 10:23 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Ok... definitely an odd question...
Hello Folks,
There have been many threads in the past about the Deloreans ability to
carry people of taller stature, and I was wondering if there are any owners
who are slightly, well, vertically challenged? Well, thanks for keeping the list such a great place and for also keeping
the dream alive for guys like myself.
Rich
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 18:31:41 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: brake bleeding revisited...
I saw a brake bleeder at Harbor Freight yesterday. I recall that they
wanted $29.95.
Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Hank Eskin [mailto:heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 11:50 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] brake bleeding revisited...
Hello all,
Based on feedback from the list, I've decided NOT to use the vacuum method
to bleed my brakes, but instead found this simple pressure bleeder called
"Eezibleed" (http://www.aep.bigstep.com/Eezi.htm) for about $30. They
aren't that easy to find here in the states, but I should be getting mine
tomorrow. I'll report back how well it works.
Also, I need to find four replacement bleeder screw rubber caps, and
Autozone didn't carry any. Does anyone know exactly what size they are, and
where I can get some locally? (I don't want to pay $10 shipping from a D
vendor for 1OZ of $.39 parts).
thanks,
-Hank #1619
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 00:52:10 +0100
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: If of a nervous disposition move to your next message!!!
Found 2 pictures of a damaged DeLorean.
http://www.wreckedexotics.com/index2.html
Regards
Chris Hawes
#5255
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 23:52:24 -0000
From: "mccarthy410" <mccarthy410@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Best sources
Hi again,
I again appreciate all the help and information I was given. I was
informed on the the rule of $20,000 meaning whatever one spends for a
DeLorean less than $20,000, will balance out to $20,000. What are
the best sources for a DeLorean? Such as buying from a private
seller? Buying from a car dealership who specializes in exotic cars
or a dealer who happens to have on on their lot? One of the vendors?
Thanks
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 01:54:06 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail]
[ moderators note: It's understandable that we all want to defend what we've said or what was said about us, sometimes simply because things get taken the wrong way but let's try to keep things from getting personal here on the list and limit these type of discussions to private Emails.]
Hi John
It was never my intention to belittle your system. I agree wholeheartedly that it is a
better solution than the stock system, and in my last post describd it as a solution that
gives people an alternative to the FanZilla.
I am very used to describing devices as a "box". Every day I talk about "Nokia boxes" to
describe tens of thousands of pounds/dollars worth of Firewall Appliance that I support
and sell. It's not derogatory, it's just a word. I apologise if you took it to mean
otherwise.
My point is (and I'm getting just as tired of repeating it as I'm sure many of you are of
reading it), I want to build this for myself. It's no skin off my nose if anyone out
there has the ability to duplicate it for themselves - I am happy to supply the design
freely. I am not trying to compete with any other product or service, BUT in some ways I
think I can improve on the design - that is a matter of opinion, and for others to
decide.
With regards the water pump, we can source them brand new for £42 ($61) - factor in the
cost of shipping from the US and the price here is far more attractive. All it took was a
photo of the right pump....
Remember I have also done work on parts sourcing, and have "found" auto transmission
filters, front brake flexi-hoses and washer bottle pumps. I'm not a vendor, and do all of
this out of the love for my car and the enjoyment I get as a member of this community.
John, let's just take a step back, give the DML a rest from this issue and chill out over
a beer or five in Memphis.
Martin
#1458
dherv10@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Martin and Group, I'll get on my soap box again. I respect the engineering
> background of all trying to better the De Lorean, But The Fan Fix is not Just
> a Box.
<snip>
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 00:54:50 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold
No. The exhaust manifold gaskets go on "dry". RTV will burn right
off the second you start the car. There is a sealent that is made by
permatex that is a copper based to handle the extreme heat but the
exhaust manifold gaskets (any) go on dry.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I'm expecting to get my new manifold gaskets tomorrow in the
mail. But i
> was wondering if you recommend putting RTV on the gasket?
>
> Thanks
> Willie
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
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