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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: battery master switch?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
3. Re: help! door jamming...
From: hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: help! door jamming...
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Rear License Bezel
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Graceland suggestions....in Memphis!
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude@xxxxxxxx>
7. Re: T liner drooping
From: CatfishEd@xxxxxxx
8. Re: rough week
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. wiring and AC charging
From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Snap in dash replacement.
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Shift Pattern (was: More questions)
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail]
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 03:05:35 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: battery master switch?
A "Battery Master Switch" is a switch that is connected to the
positive terminal of the battery and disconnects the battery from the
electrical system. You can find them at car shows and swap meets or
you can order from the Delorean venders. Some types come with a
removable "key" to make it an anti-theft device. It is really handy at
car shows if you leave the doors open all day and don't wnat to kill
your battery. It is also good if you don't use the car everyday, you
turn it off when you aren't using it so the battery stays charged up.
It is also a good safety device as in an emergency you can kill all
electrical power to the car. It is only about $15-$20 and you can make
up a bracket to hold it next to the battery. You also need a short
piece of cable from the switch to the battery.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxx> wrote:
> Exactly what is the battery master switch that you mention?
>
> -Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 10:08 AM
> Subject: [DML] Re: radio bezel/blower repair
>
>
> >Do the relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery
master
> > switch, and clean ALL of the ground connections.
>
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:12:32 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
You can use a standard steering wheel puller with some modifications.
First you need long bolts to clear the steering wheel with the puller, I used
1/4 inch threaded rod from the hardware store.
next you need to drill and retap the two threaded holes in the steering wheel
for the puller, they are metric and way to small. they will strip you try to
pull the steering wheel off. You may even have to go to the next larger size
rod depending how much force is needed to pull the steering wheel off.
But by using the right tool for the job the steering wheel will come off.
John
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:18:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: help! door jamming...
hey John Dore
I just adjusted my door tonight I had to add washers
on one side and replace with a thinner on the
other.Look and see if its hitting the guides. by
looking for ware.
see how far the stricker pin goes into the lock.
Have you tried lubing the lock mechanism.
HUgo Vin 2800
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 03:21:33 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: help! door jamming...
Park the car on level ground. Open the door. Slowly close the door and
watch the front and rear pins as they enter the guides and lock. As
the door swings down and inward the pins should be centered in the
guides and enter the lock without hitting the sides. This is difficult
to see without a flashlight.If you can feel the door hit the pins
before it latches then you need to adjust the pins. To adjust loosen
the pins (one at a time) and move it JUST A LITLE BIT. Make small
adjustments till you get it right then do the other pin. Go back and
forth doing each pin on 1 door till you get it as good as you can. If
you find you can't adjust it enough in 1 direction you will have to
remove some fiberglass to get more room to adjust the pin. Make sure
you get them tight as if they loosen it could jam the door. Sometimes
you need to put a washer under a pin to get it to line up better into
the lock without catching on the head of the pin. The two main things
are to PARK ON LEVEL GROUND and MAKE LITTLE ADJUSTMENTS. The locks
have two locking positions, if the front lock only hits on the first
position and the rear on the second the door will jam which is why it
is important for the two locks to lock together. When a pin is out of
alignment 1 lock is in the first position and the other is in the
second. This is made worse when not on level ground. Lockzilla cannot
help, this must be corrected before Lockzilla will work correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi guys,
> My passenger door is giving a bit of trouble, I hope someone can
help
> me! It closes fine but often closes with a loud clunk, as if it is
> not hitting the striker pins dead on. Anyway, it will easily open
> again whenever needed. The problem arises when it is locked, either
> manually from the inside, or with the key from the outside. Once it
> is locked, it can be immediately unlocked again in the same manner,
> no problem. The trouble is when the car is left locked on a hill (my
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:14:18 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear License Bezel
there is one on ebay being sold by Bob Miller.
foxmul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 4:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Rear License Bezel
> I REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY need one of these rear license plate bezel
> frames ..
>
> the black piece that holds the plate on the rear between the taillamps!
>
>
> if anybody has one or leads on one...
>
> please let me know
>
> i have tried grady and they tried housten... with no avail... must have
> been misplaced in the move
>
> please email me directly
>
> ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> thanks much
> Kenneth
> 05541
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:40:47 -0500
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Graceland suggestions....in Memphis!
Hi Mike,
>I'm thinking about making the trip up to
>Nashville from Savannah.
The show is going to be in Memphis, not Nashville.
Just thought I'd drop that along before someone got
misdirected.
Later,
Rob
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 01:02:51 EDT
From: CatfishEd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: T liner drooping
this just appened to me and i had an auto upholsterer repair it and you can't
tell the difference
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:13:36 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rough week
Kevin,
> Is there a market for plastic bottles in good
> shape?
I see them on eBay occasionally. I replaced mine, too, so I have a good
plastic one for sale -- 19K miles on it, no sun damage.
> Second-- the louvre doesn't like to open now.
<snip>
> I took off the plastic screen that secures the
> t-panel rear edge and it is extremely warped.
I get the feeling that everyone's screen warps -- some worse than others.
> Third-- the car wouldn't start and smelled flooded when I went out to
leave
> for lunch yesterday. It would start to turn over and cough along for a bit
> and if I hit the gas it would die. The engine wasn't exactly hot it had
been
> three+ hours since last run but it was almost 90 already. Does this sound
> like the hot-start problem? I've never experienced that and am not sure.
FYI, "turn over" means that the starter engaged and rotated the internals of
the engine. It does not mean that the engine is running.
A hot start problem is exactly as the name implies -- it won't start when
the engine is hot. Your engine was running albeit crappy, but it has
started, so this isn't a hot start problem. I have two suggestions on what
to look for: First check your thermo-time switch and make sure that it
isn't sticking in the 'hot' position. If it is stuck permanently on then it
will allow the cold start valve to fire for as long as the starter is
engaged. This could flood your engine if it doesn't start soon while cold.
And while hot, it needs even less fuel to get started, so it could really
flood. The second thing to check (according to my experience) is the
electrical connections to the warm-up regulator and frequency valve. They
could be corroded giving you an intermittent problem. Since your problem is
intermittent, that precludes being able to diagnose it when you have the
tools handy. If all else fails, you might want to install a permanent fuel
pressure gauge in the engine compartment so you can tell what is going on
during those rare problems.
> Fourth-- an orange wire w/ inline fuse in the relay compartment, out near
> the outside wall, looks all hot and melted.
I need a better description of this to know what you are talking about. The
stock configuration doesn't use any inline fuses that I am aware of. Is
there a color tracer on the wire?
> Sigh....
Yeah, but DeLoreans are cool. :-)
Walt
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 05:48:32 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: wiring and AC charging
Hmmm...I guess we will have to agree to disagree.
>>Some of the circuits are run pretty near their limits of
capacity but the trick is to keep everything clean and tight. Do the
relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery master.<<
The "trick" is to completely weed out the design weaknesses. While
resistance heating and I2R losses can be dealt with by good
connections, no amount of aftermarket gadgets will alieviate poor
design. Lack of overcurrent protection at the source is just plain
stupid. The "upgrades" you mention are designed for non technical
people, hence the plug and play nature of them. Why would anyone with
the ability to correct the design flaws resort to them?
There is no reason for so many branch circuits to be powered when in
the accessory position. Everything from the A/C clutch to the auto
tranny electronics is (or can be) powered. Why? Bad design is why.
Battery master? Others can live with that, I'll change it so as to be
functional. Other than long term storage, there is no reason the
battery should ever drain if the car's electrical system is designed
and maintained properly.
And why would I install a battery master instead of fixing the system
so it operates properly? In other words, band-aids are unacceptable.
I'm amazed at what D owners live with, I've no interest in owning a
maintenance pig that needs frequent attention. My Toyota Supra
doesn't have any of these problems and soon this car won't either.
>> The best way to charge it (if everything is working right) is to
fill until you get the suction pressure correct and the compressor
cycles. <<
Low side pressure and cycling in a CCOT system can be dependent on
many things. The best way to charge is by weight. Actually, its even
better to use a sight glass, that way charge weight is irrelevant.
Since this system doesn't have one, I use an electronic glass.
Again, your method is fine for do it yourself types but I'm EPA 609
certified and prefer the proper way, since I have the license and
equipment.
>>The fuel return should dump close to the suction pick-up so under
very low fuel conditions it will still get some fuel. Just leave some
spacing so under conditions where the system is purging air it isn't
sucked right back in.<<
Disagree again. The factory put the return away from the inlet as it
should be. If the return is near the inlet and the fuel level falls
below it, the resulting turbulence can cause starvation. Its the
baffle's job to keep fuel suction constant under low level and
sloshing conditions. Get a low tank level and jet return fuel into
the suction area and you could have a problem, its why its not done
in aircraft.
Of course, all this is just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 06:30:04 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Snap in dash replacement.
I gave Rob Grady all the information about the snap in dash so that
if he wanted to have them made and sell them he could. I don't know
if he is going to do it or not but I do know that he was looking
into it. I couldn't take this project off the ground because of
finances (they wanted a 100 piece order and I didn't have that kind
of cash laying around). Maybe Rob will come up with it once he see's
that it comes in demand. It's a lot of money to put up front
especially if you don't sell them all and have to store them.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> OK, December 2000 is a long time ago...
>
> Have any new alternatives been developed since then?
>
>
>
> > Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:40:25 -0000
> > From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx>
> > Subject: Snap in Dash replacement Update
> >
> > Sorry it took me so long to post this update but I was waiting
to see
> > I would get anymore responses to the snap in replacement dash
> > before I posted this. Unfourtunatley I won't be able to get the
> > manufacture to make us the dash since I only recieved about 24
> > responses from people (I needed 100 min). I am not in position
in
> > laying out money for 100 dash replacements either so I had to
drop
> > this project :(.
> >
> > Sorry again for all those who were interested.
> >
> > James Espey tells me that DMC Houston is going to carry
something
> > similar and will be available sometime in the new year, I guess
we
> > can wait and see what turns up.
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 08:35:30 +0200
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shift Pattern (was: More questions)
For newbies: You have to lift the shift stick (? sorry, don't know the
right word right now) to get into reverse.
My DeLorean didn't come with a users manual and the guy who sold it to
me didn't know so didn't tell me. It was forced into reverse quite a few
times so some rods got bend out of place.
Mads de Bruin
Michael Babb wrote:
>
> Close, here's the shift pattern . . .
>
> 1 3 5
> | | |
> -------
> | | |
> R 2 4
>
> MICHAEL C. BABB
>
> -----Original Message-----
> is the DeLorean shift pattern for the manual the same as any
> other car? (Example: 1 3 5
> | | |
> -----
> | | |
> 2 4 R)
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:26:24 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
I second that!
James Russel-Grant made a little tool that has been doing the rounds
over here. It's just a metal plate with a nut welded to it in the
centre, and two long (M6?) bolts that screw into the steering wheel
right at the base. You then screw a larger bolt through the welded nut
which pushes squarely on the column shaft and pops the wheel right off.
You can probably get away without welding the nut if you have long
enough bolts
Martin
#1458
wmack wrote:
>Once you have the right
>tools its amazing how easy it is to pull that thing off.
>
>Willie
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx [mailto:Delorean17@xxxxxxx]
>
>I thought I remember someone on the list creating a little device to
>remove it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>David
>
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:57:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail]
Hi Marc
This is a tricky one.... to be honest, I'm not fussed if someone decided
to make and sell these for profit. I have thought about it myself, and
the problem is that to be competitive it would have to be substantially
cheaper than the FanZilla (it's a well-known and trusted brand name). To
be done properly would require a pcb to be made, the boards to be
stuffed etc etc.
I'm not bothered by it on the grounds that I don't think anyone will
try. I have asked that if anyone produce it then they make any buyers
aware that the schematic is freely available. If it came down to it
though, I don't really care :-) The circuit is so simple - most of the
groundwork was sourcing the right parts, and I've already given those away!
I don't think it'll be an issue - from all the responses I've had,
people fall into two camps. Those who can't build circuits, and would
buy a fanzilla or Johns box, and those who would like to have a go at
building one themselves.
BTW I'll get it done by Memphis and bring it along.
Martin
#1458
"Marc A. Levy" wrote:
> Martin,
>
> I have not been following your progress on this, but might I suggest
you have some legal wording on documents related to your project
prohibiting OTHERS from profiting from your work?
>
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