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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Even more questions
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. T liner drooping
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: radio bezel/blower repair
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
4. midwest connection tech session
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Re: alignments
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: radio bezel/blower repair
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. odd delorean items from Japan
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Center Console
From: "Phillips Jeff 2dLt AFCA/GCF" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Delorean # 502....at a steal of a price
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: blown head gasket
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Twin room at the Heartbreak available
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Maryland Delorean Sighting
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
14. help! door jamming...
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Snap in dash replacement.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. What a great car! + Montreal GP??
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Automatic Torque Biasing Differentials.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Rear License Bezel
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Travelling to Memphis from Phila
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. battery master switch?
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Graceland suggestions....
From: "mikesdelorean" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Steering wheel removal
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
23. RE: Steering wheel removal
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
24. Re: Steering wheel removal
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Oil Pan Removal & Installation Documented
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:00:07 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Even more questions
As far as getting a Delorean repaired goes I'll offer this story.
The master cylinder on my clutch failed some time ago. Now I had worked on
transmissions twice in the past and both times they were miserable failures
(stripped all the gears in an automatic and shorted an electrical main
causing all insulation to melt off the wires under the dash on the second).
Now I know that the master and slave cylinders (yes decided if I had to
replace one I might as well do both) aren't "in" the transmission but
frankly I was a bit nervous. So I talked to a mechanic at the at the shop
that towed my car and mentioned he could get all the pointers he needed over
the phone from Houston.
I would have characterize this guy as a good "shade tree" mechanic when I
met him (for those of you not familiar with the term this is a self taught
but knowledgeable person that works on cars in his yard under a tree). He
took on the job and did great. I had to pay him a little extra ($50)
because he spent a some time "learning" how to work on the car and talking
with DMC Joe. He also said if I needed any other work done to bring it
back.
So my advice is get to know a mechanic that likes a little variety in life
and is willing to try working on things out of your capabilities. Many are
willing to try but you need to find one you are comfortable with and can
trust.
In any case, I do most of my own repairs and plan, one day, to take my car
to see DMC Joe (he is the closest to me and my brother lives near him) for a
good once over.
Good luck and remember "No Fear".
Ed Garbade
10541
.............
> First of all, permit me to introduce myself, my name is Chris, I'm 22
> years old and I'm a computer technician by trade.
..........
> Third question; Since I live in a rural part of Virginia, and as
> such, to get certain services, one has to go to Winchester or deeper
> into the Washington DC area, since in my case taking it for repairs
> and maintenance that I cannot handle to one the specialty shops such
> as PJ Grady, DMC-Houston or DeLorean One, is not feasible. Are there
> options in my case? Such as mechanics in either the Winchester or
> Washington DC areas who know the DeLorean well?
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 12:47:41 -0000
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: T liner drooping
Has anyone have any experience in removing the T liner. MY aft part
seem to droop a little.
I would want to remove it and reinforce it some how.
How hard is it to remove the back liner?
Thanks Hugo Vin 2800
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:15:47 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radio bezel/blower repair
I see you are looking at the electrical system rather well. Have you
checked out www.pjgrady.com yet? Check out the zilla products they have.
They might have already found the solutions to the problems that you have
found. Good luck on your project.
----- Original Message -----
From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 10:24 PM
Subject: [DML] radio bezel/blower repair
>
> Going to change the wiring also. Studying the schematic shows an
> appalling lack of design expertise. For instance, too many things on
> the accessory relay that shouldn't be. What other car allows
> energizing the A/C clutch and fans with the key in the first position
> and the engine off? (There are lots of other things hot in the car
> that shouldn't be hot in accessory.)
>
> Also, the car doesn't seem to have a fusable link for the main power
> circuit and there is too much wiring upstream of the fuse box without
> any overcurrent protection. Don't get me wrong, I like my new toy but
> I've seldom seen an electrical system so poorly designed.
>
> Gary
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:28:26 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: midwest connection tech session
Hey all,
i just wanted to let everyone know I made a safe and uneventful (as i say -
the best kind) trip home to Fargo, ND from Naperville, IL. My new radiator
from Aftermarket Radiator sales (see below) is leak free and working fine,
and my new fans are working great too. before leaving town, we were able to
wire them up back to stock and now they cycle as they should, leaving me a
freed-up electrical system. this is great!
I really want to thank Dave Swingle for letting my friend Dale, Jim Reeve,
and myself stay at his place overnight, as well as Marty Maier, Santiago
Ortega, Michael Breisch, Don Gowler, and everyone else in the midwest
connection i met but didn't catch names of. every one of you were extremely
friendly and welcoming! thanks!!!
but most of all, i want you all to know about Don Steger, who was our
specialist on-hand from DeLorean Motor Center. He didn't actually work on my
car, but he completely BLEW MY MIND with his incredible attitude and
personality. he answered every one of my questions with a smile, told my
friends and I DeLorean stories, and just plain showed the highest respect for
everyone and their cars. I feel incredibly lucky to have met this man, sat
with him at Chile's after the session, and even conversed with him that night
at Dave Swingle's. it was truely amazing!
once again, thank you everyone at the midwest connection for your generosity
and friendliness, and i hope very much to come to another one of your meets
this year! THANKS FOR A GREAT TIME!
for everyone who was interested, my radiator came from Aftermarket Radiator
Sales in Long Island. the price is $169 and the number is 1-800-500-5010.
Later,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:51:36 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: alignments
If a T.A. bolt was found to be loose it should be replaced and the
rubber bushing inspected for collapse. You should also have the rear
alignment checked as some of the shims may have fallen out. There is a
proper way to tighten the TA bolts so yes, if done improperly it could
affect the ride height. The other possability is a weak spring.
Make sure you are running 23 psi in the front tires. Have the front
alignment checked too but wear on the outside edges of the front tires
is normal and is accelerated by hard cornering. On any other car tire
rotation is recomended to equalize the wear but on a Delorean that is
not possible!
Clunking can come from several sources including the rear half
shafts, CV joints, loose body bolts, problem with the TA bushings,
loose battery. Start with a through visual inspection under the car.
Try to isolate the noise at least to which side to narrow down the
source. Sometimes clunking can come from loose things in the trunk so
make sure it isn't something moving around inside the car like the
jack.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently took my Delorean to a local import car shop and had my
> right cv joint replaced, also the mechanic said he found the right
TA
> bolt loose and tightened it up. I never noticed it before, but the
> right side of my car seems like it sits higher than the other side.
>
> Could this result from tightening the TA bolt improperly? What else
> could cause this? I also have a rotational clunking sound coming
from
> the rear. Someone thought that it was my old tires, so I will have
to
> wait and see after I get my pirellis in a few days.
>
> Also my front tires are worn on the outer edge. I heard that this is
> normal for the delorean from the way it turns or something, but mine
> seems excessive. Can this be adjusted?
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:08:44 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radio bezel/blower repair
You obviously aren't familiar with "Lucas, Prince of Darkness"!!!!
In general most of the wiring problems aren't as serious as they
seem. Some of the circuits are run pretty near their limits of
capacity but the trick is to keep everything clean and tight. Do the
relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery master
switch, and clean ALL of the ground connections. If you have a good
battery then unless "Jack the Ripper" has worked on your wiring you
should be OK. Make sure that all of the fuses are the correct size for
the circuit (sometimes people stick in whatever is handy).
The factory did change the Freon charge. The best way to charge it
(if everything is working right) is to fill until you get the suction
pressure correct and the compressor cycles. When modifying the fuel
pick-up leave some rubber in there to avoid transmitting vibrations
from the fuel pump directly into the tank and frame. The fuel return
should dump close to the suction pick-up so under very low fuel
conditions it will still get some fuel. Just leave some spacing so
under conditions where the system is purging air it isn't sucked right
back in.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello folks,
>
> Pulled and repaired my heater/AC blower today. Lots of rust in
bottom
> bearing but otherwise OK. Water collects at the blower bottom
through
> the cooling tube, suggest drilling small drainage holes when you
have
> it out or replacing it. Better still is to increase tube penetration
> into the duct by cementing a smaller ID tube into the larger one.
>
> Also pulled and repaired the auto tranny electronics, rebuilt the
A/C
> mode control and leaked checked, added oil and charged the A/C
> system. Was a busy day. I recall reading that DMC had issued an old
> service note to reduce the R12 charge down from 2.8 pounds
> to 2.2 pounds, anyone familiar with that note?
>
> Thanks to all who suggested the foam on the rear of the heater box
> to solve the low airflow problem, that indeed was the culprit.
>
> The bezel on my Craig radio is warped so I'm looking for a new one.
> (I'll buy the entire radio if the price is right.)
>
> I'm machining tig welding up a new SS pickup assembly for the fuel
> pump. It'll replace the hose and be a straight drop down (or slight
> offset) to a custom SS baffle assembly. Anyone tried this kind of
> thing before? Have to keep the return line away from the baffle or
> may have problems when the fuel level is low (proper baffle design
> will prevent this.) This could explain why some of you are having
> suction problems even with the spring installed.
>
> Changing most of the coolant hoses under the car to PTFE under
> stainless flex used in aircraft, and SS coolant bellows for supply
> and return at the engine. Anyone done this, or anything else, to
> improve MTBF of the cooling system?
>
> Going to change the wiring also. Studying the schematic shows an
> appalling lack of design expertise. For instance, too many things on
> the accessory relay that shouldn't be. What other car allows
> energizing the A/C clutch and fans with the key in the first
position
> and the engine off? (There are lots of other things hot in the car
> that shouldn't be hot in accessory.)
>
> Also, the car doesn't seem to have a fusable link for the main power
> circuit and there is too much wiring upstream of the fuse box
without
> any overcurrent protection. Don't get me wrong, I like my new toy
but
> I've seldom seen an electrical system so poorly designed.
>
> Gary
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 14:10:33 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: odd delorean items from Japan
I have family that lives in Japan, and they often send over odd
related Delorean items that you can only get there. While there have
been many, this one takes the cake. It is a BTTF earwax remover
scoop. it basicly is a long wooded stir stick with a BTTF delorean
on top, and a mini scoop at the bottom to scoop out ear wax. This is
quite possibly the weirdest Delorean Item i have ever seen. I'll put
it next to my BTTF band-aids.
Erik
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:42:39 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
Martin,
I have not been following your progress on this, but might I suggest you have some legal wording on documents related to your project prohibiting OTHERS from profiting from your work?
It's great that you are doing this work, and making it public.. I agree, this will have minimal impact on the Zilla module that it "competes" with because the majority of DeLorean owners don't want to be bothered building and testing their own home made device. The people that build your device will probably be the owner who was previously using a manual switch to turn the fans on :)
My point is, the possibility exists for a 3rd party to "steal" your work and produce a plug and play device to compete with Fanzilla. Not only will this situation create competition for Zilla (Grady and DMCJoe who sell it) who continue to support DeLorean owners by supplying us with tested solutions to our common problems, They will also be profiting from your hard work.
You use the term "Open Source"... The open source agreement usually has restrictions about others reproducing all or part of the intellectual property for profit.
Marc
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto:webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:15 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
>
<SNIP>
>
> Rob asked me the other day about my fan delay system, the way I've
> re-engineered the door lock module, my new design for that, and the
> remote starter/alarm I've fitted to my car, and how I intend
> interfacing
> it to door-openers. He was interested but hardly concerned
> that I'd be
> stealing any business :-)
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> DMC Joe wrote:
>
> >Martin,
> >
> >Is this device being produced to compete with the Fanzilla?
> >
> >DMC Joe
> >
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:44:10 -0500
From: "Phillips Jeff 2dLt AFCA/GCF" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Center Console
Its hard to explain why but could someone please take a picture of the center console that shows from the top of the cowl to the illuminated AC panel. The PO installed an aftermarkek radio and everything seems to be shifted down 2 inches. They installed a quality piece of black cardboard to fill in a space at the top betweent he vents and the top of the cowl. In short, things just don't look right and i'd like a nice stock DeLorean console to compare it to and none of the stereo pics really show down to the bottow of the AC panel.
Jeff
Pls email offline or post to the technical section.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 10:56:48 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean # 502....at a steal of a price
#502 is one of the cars that Legend Industries installed it's highly modified twin turbo PRV-V6 in.
There were a few other cars that got this same engine, but #502 is the car that was used by the car magazines to review as what DeLorean was expecting to produce in the future. This car was also rumored to be John DeLoreans personal vehicle for a while.
FWIW, Rob's $75K asking price is a good deal.. Considering the publicity this single car has gotten over the years, it is truly unique (even though there are other cars fitted with Legend Twin Turbo engines). There are 3 Gold DeLoreans, and considering the asking price when they come up for sale....
$75K is out of my budget though, besides how many Legend engines does one person need?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: id [mailto:ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 6:06 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean # 502....at a steal of a price
>
>
> it is the only factory twin turbo. it was a prototype that
> never made it into production.
>
> mark
>
>
>
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 11:09:28 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: blown head gasket
I see others have sent you good ways to see if there is a blown gasket..
Just adding... If you do find that it is blown, consider WHY it was blown.. It was most likely overheated, and if so I'd assume (if I were buying the car) that the head is warped from the heat.. Even if it turns out to NOT be the case, you cant disassemble and check it before you buy the car so assume the worst when making an offer.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: paulkane45 [mailto:paulkane45@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:27 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] blown head gasket
>
>
> I'm looking at a Delorean here in MN and I have a suspicion that it
> has a blown head gasket. Does anyone here have a quick way i can
> check on a D without bringing it to a mechanic?
>
<SNIP>
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:13:29 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Twin room at the Heartbreak available
Hi All
Due to two of our party of five dropping out, we have a twin room at the
Heartbreak going spare for the duration of the show.
The room is already paid for, and we can change the name at any time.
Please contact me off-list if interested.
Our party of three will be flying into Atlanta and driving via Knoxville
to stay and travel with the convoy being organised by Aaron. We will
have one or two spaces free in the car, if anyone wants to jump in with us.
Martin
DOC UK
#1458
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 09:51:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Maryland Delorean Sighting
A car club I belong to cruises every Friday night to
the Glen Burnie Mall parking lot (in Glen Burnie, MD)
Two weeks ago, I didn't make it to the cruise. Later,
someone reported to me that there was a Delorean
there. In more than 5 years of cruising in this area,
I've never seen a D at one of our cruises and one
night I'm not there...
I was just curious of it was anyone from the list.
Also, I saw a D at the big Ocean City, MD cruise this
past weekend. Saw tons of muscle cars, street rods,
even a half dozen Panteras, but only one D! Anyone?
Steve
=====
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:24:19 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: help! door jamming...
Hi guys,
My passenger door is giving a bit of trouble, I hope someone can help
me! It closes fine but often closes with a loud clunk, as if it is
not hitting the striker pins dead on. Anyway, it will easily open
again whenever needed. The problem arises when it is locked, either
manually from the inside, or with the key from the outside. Once it
is locked, it can be immediately unlocked again in the same manner,
no problem. The trouble is when the car is left locked on a hill (my
driveway is uphill) for a period of time, or after driving around a
few bends, and you try to unlock it again, it will be stuck!
Sometimes taking another fast bend either to the left or the right
will free it up again, other times the passenger has to bang on the
top of the inside of the windowsill, and it will free back up again
after a minute.
It seems to me that the door is not closing correctly on both
latches, and then when any force is put on it while locked (eg being
left on a hill or going around a bend) it moves slightly, and it gets
jammed.
In case it matters, my car is a september 1981, with the old style
locks. It has Lockzilla and lockzilla remote, but I have disconnected
these until I can get the locks to work manually first.
The roofline of my door (when closed) seems to be a bit high at the
windscreen edge (there is a small gap visible), and a bit low at the
other end, by the t-panel.
I will be opening the door up some night this week to install my
upgraded window motor, is there anything I should look for when I
have the guts of the door open then?
Any advice is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
John Dore, Boston, MA.
#3810
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:56:59 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Snap in dash replacement.
OK, December 2000 is a long time ago...
Have any new alternatives been developed since then?
> Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:40:25 -0000
> From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Snap in Dash replacement Update
>
> Sorry it took me so long to post this update but I was waiting to see
> I would get anymore responses to the snap in replacement dash
> before I posted this. Unfourtunatley I won't be able to get the
> manufacture to make us the dash since I only recieved about 24
> responses from people (I needed 100 min). I am not in position in
> laying out money for 100 dash replacements either so I had to drop
> this project :(.
>
> Sorry again for all those who were interested.
>
> James Espey tells me that DMC Houston is going to carry something
> similar and will be available sometime in the new year, I guess we
> can wait and see what turns up.
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:10:12 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: What a great car! + Montreal GP??
Hi again guys,
After posting about my problem with my occasionally jamming passenger
door, I would like to say that my DeLorean (apart from a few minor
problems) has been the most reliable (and fun!) car I have ever
owned. I got it around the 26th of Febuary this year with 12,200
original miles. It now has almost 17,000 miles, and the only thing
that broke which prevented me from driving it was the original blue
cooling fan relay which gave up after a few days. Fanzilla is now
installed. I can sit in any time and drive for as many miles as I
like!
I have done a lot of work to the car in the past few months, here's
the list...
fanzilla, lockzilla, lockzilla remote.
brake master cylinder
1 new headlamp
new otterstat
2 new window motors
PJ grady performance springs and shocks - great product
1 metal door handle
broke and fixed my digital console clock
scraped rust off front of frame (and on and under fuel tank cover
plate, painted with POR-15).
Adjusted handbrake - thanks to the tip on DMCjoe's website
Removed headliners, and recovered in ebony black, to match my black
leather interior - looks great!
Installed SS lettering on rear bumper and on door sills.
Replaced Accumulator
This weeks work involves replacing my old style fuel pump with the
new one to finally get rid of my hot start problem. And hopefully
figuring out the jamming door thing as described in my other post
today.
It seems like I've done a lot of work to the car, but really it could
have done without most of it, but I think it is better as a result of
it! Of all the work I did, I found the window motors job to be the
most difficult, worse than even the famous accumulator replacement. I
even thought it was easier to install the new front springs and 4
shock absorbers than put in 1 window motor! Even with all the time I
have spent working on the car (and of course having a 9 to 5 job) I
have still managed to put almost 5000 miles on it in 3 months. And I
get the bus to work in Boston, so all of those miles have been just
for fun! I have wanted a DeLorean since I was a kid, and am now
enjoying every minute of ownership, I love this car!!!!!!
Anybody in the New england area with a D that would like to meet up
(within a few hundred miles of Boston)?
My next big trip is to the Montreal GP in 2 weeks, any D owners in
Montreal or closeby that might like to go for a few pints, or meet up
at the race?
Thanks guys,
John Dore, #3810 - 5 speed black leather, 17,000 miles and counting.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:05:10 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Automatic Torque Biasing Differentials.
QUAIFE in the past has made their ATB for "Renault 30 / Alpine (UN1 gearbox)" applications.
Maybe someone can verify for sure that the differential from the R30 is the same as the DeLorean. If so, I have contacted Quaife America and they would be willing to do a run of this part but require a minimum of 30 units to be purchased (50% deposit before they will build the parts). Cost would be about $770 each + shipping. You install it yourself.
See: http://www.quaife.co.uk/product/atb.htm
Anyone interested in a group purchase? For those of us working on hi-po engines, or conversions this would be a very nice addition.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 16:26:15 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear License Bezel
I REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY need one of these rear license plate bezel
frames ..
the black piece that holds the plate on the rear between the taillamps!
if anybody has one or leads on one...
please let me know
i have tried grady and they tried housten... with no avail... must have
been misplaced in the move
please email me directly
ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
thanks much
Kenneth
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:02:28 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Travelling to Memphis from Phila
Hello All,
I'm thinking about attempting to drive from the Philadelphia area to
Knoxville on Wednesday, June 12, and meet the others spending the night in
Knoxville. It's about 630 miles and 11 hours of driving. Is anyone else
taking this route interested in caravanning?
Also, don't forget about the Delorean Show Mileage tracker -
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/tracker.php - please enter your info - it only
takes a few seconds! thanks.
-Hank Eskin #1619
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:55:04 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: battery master switch?
Exactly what is the battery master switch that you mention?
-Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 10:08 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: radio bezel/blower repair
>Do the relay upgrade, Fanzilla, and Lockzilla, install a battery master
> switch, and clean ALL of the ground connections.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:30:50 -0000
From: "mikesdelorean" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Graceland suggestions....
My name is Mike and I'm thinking about making the trip up to
Nashville from Savannah. I am just an enthusiast and not an owner
just yet, but I am looking for a concontration of D's to see in
person and to learn from. Is there a sugested day(s) and/or event(s)
that I would benifit from? I am doing this on an extreemly small
budget and would like any suggestions on cheap places to stay as
well. Any and all help would be appriciated. Thanx!
-Mike
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 20:26:57 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Steering wheel removal
Hello,
What is the best way to go about removing the steering wheel? I got the
big nut off of under the center pad but that wheel isn't going to budge. Any
ideas? I thought I remember someone on the list creating a little device to
remove it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
David
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 21:53:36 -0400
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Steering wheel removal
David
What you need to do is go to Advanced, Napa, Pep Boys what ever is around you,
and rent a steering wheel puller. You may have to adapt the steering wheel
puller with your own bolts, thats what i had to do. Once you have the right
tools its amazing how easy it is to pull that thing off.
Willie
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
-----Original Message-----
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx [mailto:Delorean17@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 8:27 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Steering wheel removal
Hello,
What is the best way to go about removing the steering wheel? I got the
big nut off of under the center pad but that wheel isn't going to budge. Any
ideas? I thought I remember someone on the list creating a little device to
remove it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
David
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 03:04:14 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel removal
Well - sometimes. After about two hours of using a puller (stripped
out the holes!), using a brass punch while pulling on the wheel, and
lots of choice swear words, I actually had to drill mine off by
drilling along side the steering column enough to get it to let go.
(I was replacing it).
I've heard this story before, as well as "it comes right off".
Depends on how much locktite the guy at the factory put on it, or if
it has been removed before. The puller bolt holes are small and are a
very fine metric thread that is difficult to find in a bolt long
enough to do the job.
Whatever you do, don't pound on the steering column without pulling
on the wheel at the same time, this IS a collapsable steering column.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, wmack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> David
>
> What you need to do is go to Advanced, Napa, Pep Boys what ever is
around you,
> and rent a steering wheel puller. You may have to adapt the
steering wheel
> puller with your own bolts, thats what i had to do. Once you have
the right
> tools its amazing how easy it is to pull that thing off.
>
> Willie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Delorean17@xxxx [mailto:Delorean17@a...]
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 8:27 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxx
> Subject: [DML] Steering wheel removal
>
> Hello,
> What is the best way to go about removing the steering wheel?
I got the
> big nut off of under the center pad but that wheel isn't going to
budge. Any
> ideas?
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 23:04:40 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil Pan Removal & Installation Documented
Hello everyone.... I just finished replacing my Oil Pan and I have
documented it on my website. http://jason.kitcarmagazine.com/DeLorean/ I
hope this helps others out there.
Hey DMC Joe... where are my Roters? :)
Thanks
Jason
Dayton, Ohio
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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