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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: brakes locking up and won't release
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Front coil springs
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. R134a
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: aluminum reservoir
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. door striker post info
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Propane/Freon
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: aluminum reservoir
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. XM Radio...
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
9. Engine number installed?
From: Jerry Condray <genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Brake Pedal Preasure
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: R134a
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: aluminum reservoir
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
13. Atlanta area
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: Propane/Freon
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. Delorean photo in magazine this month
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
16. Re: R134a
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Turns over, doesn't start.
From: "Sean_Mulligan" <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Turns over, doesn't start.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Delorean photo in magazine this month
From: "bmxc" <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Engine number installed?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Engine number installed?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
22. Re: Turns over, doesn't start.
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
23. Idle Speed Microswitch/Timing
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: Brake Pedal Preasure
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
25. ADMIN-Virus problem
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 03:06:41 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brakes locking up and won't release
Payne,
I went thru the same problems as you,I replaced calipers,Master
cylinder,ect,and still had my brakes locking up,THE problem is the
Brake Lines,Sure they may look perfect on the outside,with no visible
cracks,or damage/rot,But what happens is the(rubber) brake lines rot
from the inside,and BLOCKS or restricts the passage(the normal flow)
or return of the brake fluid,(kinda like a dam on a river in reverse)
which causes the wheels to "stick" or lock up,as the hydraulic
pressure cannot be relieved,or is relieved very slowly because of the
blockage or restriction, but of course when you
apply the brakes,because you are applying hydraulic pressure against
the "dam" (The restriction or blockage)it will allow the brake fluid
to flow to the calipers,but
when the pressure is removed,it cannot reverse flow,because of the
blockage in the deterated rubber brake lines,hense the sticking or
locking up of the brakes.But then again it could
just be sticking or rust build-up in the brake calipers,from non-
use.Either way they are very
old rubber brake lines,and should be replaced anyway,the braking
system is one area you do not want to skimp on.Hope this helps.
Claude
000570
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Based on all of your advice and having my car in our shop today, I
think
> everyone's right about the problem. First we flushed the system A
LOT with
> fresh DOT 4, then I went for a drive and noticed the same gradually
stiffer
> brake pedal. After a few minutes of driving we pulled it on the
lift and
> all of the wheels were difficult to turn by hand. The tech relieved
> pressure at a couple of the bleeder screws and the wheels were able
to turn
> freely again. So obviously pressure keeps building toward the
calipers but
> fluid is not returning to the resevoir. Therefore it's got to be a
bad
> master cylinder, right? I hope that's all, however I also need a
new right
> front caliper since one of the pistons is frozen in place.
>
> Oh well. I can't help but love the car no matter what happens.
That's
> something probably no other car in the world could do for me.
>
> payne
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:27:16 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front coil springs
I've removed the front shocks TWICE and also installed new shorter
shocks. I do have to say this....although it was not very hard to
do....My heart had never raced so fast in my life. The spring was a
little clusy and at times it looked like it wanted to shoot out! A
couple of creaks here and a couple of creaks there will make you run
to the local saloon for a few unwinders...lol. If you can, bring it
to a shop unless you feel really daring like I did.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "graves_14" <tylergraves@xxxx> wrote:
> Paul,
>
> Having attempted the spring removal and installation myself, I
> honestly think bringing it to a local shop is the only way to do
> this. It took my local shop half a day and three (3) guys to get
the
> springs off on at a time. They had to cut one of the springs out
as
> well for some reason. These guys have all the equipment, so it
wasn't
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:35:31 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: R134a
R134a is not all that bad....If it's done properly. If the system is
flushed with a special A/C solvent that removes all the old R12 oil
and an automatic adusting Orifice tube is installed (along with all
new rubber seals) then the R134a should cool off very well. If you
want it even colder then you would need to have a larger evaporater
made and installed. IMHO...I would go with R134a. It seems that if
you go with either R12 or R134a your risking something. R12 you risk
getting a mixed blend of propane and R12 or the mechanic doing a
botch job in recharging it...R134a you risk not having it cool
properly and also risk having the mechanic doing a botch job.
I have to recharge my system at some point (after it's on the road)
and I'm going to use R134a and do it myself...I have a friend of
mine that's an A/C tech that will vaccum out the system for me. I
might even have a larger evaporator installed...I know of a place
that custom makes them.
Steve
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:20:59 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: aluminum reservoir
Where are you located David? I have a guy not to far from me who is
an aluminum specialist. The guys welds anything and everything from
aluminum to Stainless Steel! If you want I can ask him if he can
weld the brass neck back on for ....if so then all you pay is
shipping and the price he'll charge (usually around $30).
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
> If anyone knows how to properly use this special solder I will
pay you to
> solder the neck back on to my tank. Until I get this problem
fixed, no more
> driving the D! Help!
>
>
> Thanks
> David
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:43:04 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: door striker post info
I finally got around to adjusting the striker pin on my drivers door and
found that someone had put it in cross-threaded. Besides needing a new
striker pin, I might need to replace the "nut" in the door. Can anyone say
what this involves? I'm thinking that I can get away with chasing the
threads if I can find the right size tap. Can anyone say what the correct
size is? I can tell that it is a 1,0 metric thread pitch, but I need to
know the diameter.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 04:12:31 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Propane/Freon
So....How can you tell if you have the explosive stuff in your car or
Freon can,(or someplace/somebody is installing the explosive stuff)
outside of having to wait for a explosion to happen.
Claude
000570
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> > Has anyone ever experienced Propane packed up in a Freon can or
is
> this
> > the usual BS from the naysayers?
> >
> > Les
>
> Les,
>
> The fact that some people are selling R-12 in Mexico that is
propane
> or is mixed with propane is not BS! I am 400 miles from the Mexican
> border, and see it happen all the time. It's gotten so bad that the
> car dealership I worked for had to buy a $1500.00 refrigerant ID
tool
> to make sure that the cars traded in to us had R-12 in the system,
> and not propane. I don't know if they are packaging the propane in
R-
> 12 cans; they could be selling it out of a tank there. This is a
very
> real and very serious problem! All it takes is a small leak in the
> system, and a spark ---- and the car and driver are toast.
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 05:23:10 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: aluminum reservoir
BTW! Have you checked with a Radiator repair shop?? They can
probably solder it back on or make a new neck for you. Give it a try.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
> If anyone knows how to properly use this special solder I will
pay you to
> solder the neck back on to my tank. Until I get this problem
fixed, no more
> driving the D! Help!
>
>
> Thanks
> David
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:01:35 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: XM Radio...
MODERATOR NOTE: Let's keep this on track - the subject is antenna mounting on DeLoreans, not the relative merits of XM (Satellite) radio...dave
---------------------------------
Hey List,
A couple months ago I installed an aftermarket radio that is XM Radio
ready, and today I decided to see how much it would be to get XM Radio for my
car. The receiver I need would cost only $165.00, and then all I would need
is the antenna. And thats where I am having a problem. I just got back from
a stereo dealer who deals with XM Radio. All they have are 2 kinds of
magnetic mounted antennas. Well...since our beloved cars have an SS skin
thats non metallic thats obviously not going to work. They did say that one
of the antennas they have might be able to be mounted on top of the engine
cover, and it will still be able to pick up the signals from the satellite.
My question for the list is....does anyone out there have XM Radio for their
car? And if so, what did you do for the antenna problem? I do know of a few
glass mounted antennas, but the guys at this dealership says they are huge
and ugly. Thanks for the help!
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:10:25 -0500
From: Jerry Condray <genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine number installed?
Could anyone tell me where the engine number is located? Is there a plate attached? Where on the block would I look to check the number as I want to fabricate an "original" window sticker. Thanks for the help! Jerry.
___________________________________
SCTELCOM, http://www.sctelcom.net
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:01:30 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Pedal Preasure
> I would like to have a pedal that is much
> softer. Is there any way of doing this?
Shain,
You're kidding, right? :-) You have done all the right things. The OEM
rubber brake lines stretch (balloon) as you apply pressure to the pedal, and
installing the stainless braided brake lines is probably what has made your
brake pedal harder (more responsive) than what you are used to.
I put Marty's SS lines on my car, too; and I can't feel any improvement in
pedal firmness. There is a chance that I still have some air trapped in the
lines, but the brakes work fine. I blead (bleeded?) them using the vacuum
method, so sometime soon I'll try a different method.
Walt
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:59:48 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R134a
> If you
> want it even colder then you would need to have a larger evaporator
> made and installed.
Steve,
Is this possible on the DeLorean? Is there room in the dash for a larger
evaporator? I heard from someone else that it was a larger condenser that
was needed -- not an evaporator. I can tell that there is more room up
front for a thicker condenser.
I am planning on keeping my car running on real R-12 since I bought a bottle
before it became too expensive. But eventually for everyone it is going to
boil down to either finding a blend that works well or convert to R-134a (or
do without). If it were chemically possible to find a better substitute,
I'm sure it would have happened by now. There is enough money at stake to
motivate these chemical engineers.
When I swap out frames next year, I plan on replacing all the hoses with
ones that are R-134a compatible. Since the system will be all apart, I
would like to know if I can go on and convert to the R-134a compatible oil
and still use R-12. Can anyone say? Also, is there an advantage to using
an automatic adjusting orifice tube with R-12, or would it work at all?
Walt
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:18:28 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: aluminum reservoir
In a message dated 4/23/02 2:50:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Delorean17@xxxxxxx writes:
<< Hi,
If anyone knows how to properly use this special solder I will pay you
to
solder the neck back on to my tank. Until I get this problem fixed, no more
driving the D! Help!
Thanks
David >>
It's simple to use with your propane torch. Order it from J.C. Whitney or
from a welding supply shop. Search the web for 328 aluminum brazing rod. Pop
a few holes in a pop can and practice for a while. It's not that hard but
only works with thin sheet type alum and metals.
Jim
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:19:26 -0500
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Atlanta area
/lurk mode cancel
Hi, all:
I am planning on being in the Atlanta area around the date of June 1st
(couple days before -- couple days after). Was wondering if there were
any De-related events going on at that time, as this seems to be the
time of year for them. ;) Feel free to respond privately if you'd rather
not clutter up the list.
Thanks,
Farrar Hudkins
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"
/lurk mode engage
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:00:10 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Propane/Freon
> So....How can you tell if you have the explosive stuff in your car or
> Freon can,(or someplace/somebody is installing the explosive stuff)
> outside of having to wait for a explosion to happen.
Claude,
A neighbor of mine as a joke filled a balloon with an oxygen/acetylene
mixture from a welding torch. He filled the balloon to about the size of a
basket ball. He tied a string to it and thumbtacked it to a wall. Then he
lit the string like a fuse. When that thing exploded, it broke every window
in the shop, and he thought that it would just pop like a firecracker.
Acetylene isn't propane, but they are very similar. Sometimes one is
substituted for the other. I suppose that to test a system, you could drain
a little (and I do mean *little*) amount of refrigerant into a balloon and
light a match to it *outside* to see what happens.
Another interesting thought: One of the ingredients of Mustard Gas is a
combustion byproduct of freon.
Walt
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 14:13:20 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: Delorean photo in magazine this month
My wife found a model leaning against a DeLorean in the April 2002 issue of
"InStyle" magazine page 226. She's really hot looking, and the model ain't so
bad either!
See you all min Memphis!
Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
#15779 & 3356
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:38:22 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R134a
Correction!!! Condensor...not evaporator...my bad. Thanks for
catching that Walt.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > If you
> > want it even colder then you would need to have a larger
evaporator
> > made and installed.
>
> Steve,
>
> Is this possible on the DeLorean? Is there room in the dash for a
larger
> evaporator? I heard from someone else that it was a larger
condenser that
> was needed -- not an evaporator.
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:07:25 -0000
From: "Sean_Mulligan" <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Turns over, doesn't start.
Was wondering if anyone could help me. Monday while I was driving
my D around town the engine would cut out every so often for a few
seconds. This only happened a few times.
When I got it home I let it sit for a while and tried to start her
up again. She turned over, but didn't start. I know it's not a low
battery, because I threw it on the charger for a while. I've ruled
out a hot start problem as well. Does anyone know what might be
causing this from the few clues I have to offer?
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:22:12 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Turns over, doesn't start.
Sean, If the fuel pump doesn't run, naturally it won't start. Check the
connection on the inertia switch. If the connector heats and the plasic
swells, the connector will lose contact. The RPM relay could also cause the
problem and the pulse coil could be over heating. The pulse coil activates
the RPM to close contacts and power the fuel pump to run. Sounds like
something is heating up and your losing contact.
John Hervey
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 01:42:10 -0000
From: "bmxc" <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean photo in magazine this month
Her name is Amanda Peet... and I'm posting the pic in the photos
section now...
ben
06976
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, mroboto@xxxx wrote:
> My wife found a model leaning against a DeLorean in the April 2002
issue of
> "InStyle" magazine page 226. She's really hot looking, and the
model ain't so
> bad either!
>
> See you all min Memphis!
> Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
> #15779 & 3356
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:32:27 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Engine number installed?
In a message dated 4/24/02 5:22:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Could anyone tell me where the engine number is located? Is there a plate
> attached? Where on the block would I look to check the number as I want to
> fabricate an "original" window sticker. Thanks for the help! Jerry.
Jerry,
there is an engine plate located on the driver's side of the engine near the
catalytic converter on the engine cradle/frame side of it. have fun reading
it, it's probably really rusty and discolored!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:26:39 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Engine number installed?
In a message dated 4/24/02 6:21:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Could anyone tell me where the engine number is located? Is there a plate
attached? Where on the block would I look to check the number as I want to
fabricate an "original" window sticker. Thanks for the help! Jerry.
>>
Mine has an aluminum stamped plate bolted to the rear left hand side of the
block just below the head and almost directly in line with the cat. You can
see it from the LH rear corner of the car as you look under. The stock
exhaust may obscure your view. My number is about 100 or so higher than my
chassis number.
Jim 6147
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:43:33 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Turns over, doesn't start.
In a message dated 4/24/02 6:09:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> Was wondering if anyone could help me. Monday while I was driving
> my D around town the engine would cut out every so often for a few
> seconds. This only happened a few times.
>
> When I got it home I let it sit for a while and tried to start her
> up again. She turned over, but didn't start. I know it's not a low
> battery, because I threw it on the charger for a while. I've ruled
> out a hot start problem as well. Does anyone know what might be
> causing this from the few clues I have to offer?
>
Sean,
one day i was cleaning my engine and i use a universal dressing on all of my
hoses and lines to keep them new-looking. anyway i accidently loosened one
of the plug wires so it wasn't making a good connection. i was driving later
that day and every now and then my car would just die for no reason. it
happened three times and each time i couldn't figure out what happened, then
i'd get back in my car and it would start again. when i got home i found the
loose plug wire. check all of your wires including the coil wire if you
haven't already. also check all of the connections on the ignition resistor
as well and make sure they are tight. sometimes it's the stupid things!!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 01:22:45 -0000
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Idle Speed Microswitch/Timing
Thanks to everyone who replied to my recent posts regarding my issues
that I was having after doing a 'tune up'. I'm still having the
issues and hunting for a possible vacuum leak. However, does the
following scenario ring a bell to anyone as to where my problem may
be stemming from?
If I keep my idle speed microswitch pressed down, the timing is right
in line with where it needs to be when I check it with my timing
light. If I rev up the engine and keep the switch pressed down, the
timing still looks about right...even though the car wants to die out
if I let it idle at the standard 750rpm.
However, if I *don't* push down on the idle switch, the timing is way
off the charts, almost directly at the "12 o clock" position. If I
rev up the engine, it gets worse and goes higher..not to mention the
engine sounds like garbage...
I've been doing the 'propane vacuum leak' testing in order to find
the source of the leak in key areas, and nothing has turned up
yet... If anyone has some thoughts to why this may be occuring, I'd
appreciate any input. I'm not very familiar with how the system
operates (but quickly learning..the hard way!)...but I was hoping
this might help point me in the direction of what might be at fault,
what may be leaking, etc...
Again, the car ran quite well until I did a tuneup and it went south
after that and wouldn't accellerate at all. It idled ok...but after
the car sat over the winter months in the garage, now it doesn't even
want to idle...it just wants to die. I know I must have done
something, but keep looking, checking, searching, comparing, and
haven't come across anything...either I did something that I can't
locate, something was failing while I was doing my tuneup, or
something was on the edge of failing and I helped it along by
disturbing it during my procedures.
Thanks in advance!
Pete
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:56:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Brake Pedal Preasure
Sorry there Walt, i want a harder brake pedal. Today i took my car down to a high performance porshe shop that usualy helps me with my car. I had the one guy drive my car, mostly to have someone else check and see if they believe that anything is wrong with her. After one of the scariest rides of my life (their used to racing porshe, the way they shift and drive is diffrently than me), and some good brake test he said that they feel good. Just need a front end aligment (pulls every so slightly). The stainless steel brakes lines are a great thing to add to your car, although it was a pain removing the old ones.
- Shain
#10140
----- In Response To -----
> I would like to have a pedal that is much
> softer. Is there any way of doing this?
Shain,
You're kidding, right? :-) You have done all the right things
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:04:13 -0500
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ADMIN-Virus problem
Group
Normally we won't post virus alerts - they are as much pain in the neck as
the virus itself. But - I've received a bunch of these myself, and warnings
from a few of you. This seems to have hit several people on the list who
correspond off-line and it's replicating via their address books. There is
no consistency to the topic line or where it's from, so posting that info
here would be useless. They are not going via the list. I have several test
accounts that I never use for anything else, and they never get hit with
these things.
PLEASE be careful when you get mail that you don't expect, and NEVER open an
attachment that has .exe or .scr at the end of it. And spend a few bucks for
a good virus checker.
Dave Swingle
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