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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fuel tank made from Stainless steel?
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
2. Refinishing Wheels
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Limited Edition Kits
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: refinished wheels?
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
5. fir trees/post trim
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom@xxxxxxx>
6. Memphis check in Time
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
7. Door Handle (Inside)
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
8. eBay items in Tampa
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Bonnet
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Cars that use same tranny
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Dual Key System Vin #'s
From: "shainbrannan" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Leather interior question
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Bonnet
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: auto transmission pan gasket
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
16. RE: Bogs on cold driveway
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Bogs on cold drivaway
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
18. Poll "For NON-USA owners: What country do you live in?" closed
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
19. RE: Bogs on cold drivaway
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Hot Fan Breaker... Fire would be bad.
From: "Steve Peck" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Defroster switches..
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. RE: turn signals &^%$#
From: "Steve Peck" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
23. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. MACHINED SHIFT KNOBS DEFENSE
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:09:02 -0500
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank made from Stainless steel?
/lurk mode cancel
Hi Walt,
A stainless fuel tank sounds wonderful. Have you considered aluminum? I
have no experience in metallurgy (hint: somebody who does please help me
here) but aluminum always feels cooler to the touch than stainless,
according to my hands anyway. It also might be less expensive! However,
if aluminum is too weak, my question becomes moot.
Okay, two posts in one day is more than enough for me.
/lurk mode engage
- Farrar
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:14:07 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Refinishing Wheels
I had my wheels media blaster (not sand) and powder coated. They look
really nice and the brake dust comes off a lot easier.
BOB
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 00:12:01 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Limited Edition Kits
Hi Scott,
I'm writing you directly because my reply on the DML didn't make it through
for some reason. I'm trying twice again tonight so we'll see if they go
through this time. Anyway, I just wanted to say I am one of the people who
have received their kits "recently" and because of that thought it might be
somewhat reassuring to others that kits are still going out.
Of course when you get the kit it's so nice and allows the owner the ability
to custom build a DeLorean model of their own car. I'm saying all this
because I know it's frustrating waiting so long but at least Lee is still at
work finishing our kits and yes they are very nice.
I have no contact/connection with Lee, just a guy who got his model and is
VERY happy with the workmanship and effort that went into it.
Good luck and I hope this helps
Mike Atkinson
vin 16232
Subject: [DML] Limited Edition Kits
> Last week I posted a question to the group, asking "who besides myself has
> not received there Limited Edition Kit from Lee Seilers"?
>
> I have received 25 replies from people who ordered and paid for the kits,
> but have yet to receive them.
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/20/02
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:00:35 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: refinished wheels?
In a message dated 4/16/02 11:30:37 PM, bfreyguy@xxxxxxx writes:
<< Has anybody ever refinished there wheels.I am looking to refinish my
wheels which are pitted and flaking,I hear there are a couple of
different methods? Does anybody have any idea's I would appreciate it
very much. thank you >>
I bought a pair of trade in wheels from DMC Houston for one of my D's and
they are polished with a clear coat. They were the best investent, my whole
car looks better!
They are original DMC wheels that have been machined and polished so they
look like factory only without the pitted rough texture. DMC Houston took my
old wheels in on trade toward them so the cost was very reasonable.
Daniel 15779 & 3356
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 06:38:10 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom@xxxxxxx>
Subject: fir trees/post trim
Hello,
My "A" post trim fell off the interior of my door the other day...and
for good reason...all the fir trees are completely worn out! I have
new fir trees on hand. Anyone had success replacing these on the A
Post Trim, and if so...how?!
Nick
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:07:11 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Memphis check in Time
HI
thought I would take a little of the rush out of some of your travels and
hopefully get you a little more sleep
The Hotel check in times are 3:00 PM and I plan on getting there about 2PM
myself.
We are still planning a door adjustment seminar somewhere around 3:30 to 4:30
and I will announce that later as I get a definate time when Rob will be
arriving.
dinner is going to be later since we need to wait for Graceland to close the
ticket pavilion so we can set up so nothing is going to start much before 6
to 6:30
There will be an itinerary in your packets when you arrive.
I heard of some groups trying to get there in the morning around 9 and if you
want to do a little sight seeing thats fine.
Hope this helps you plan and maybe sleep in a bit on Thursday Morning if you
plan to split the drive
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:14:47 -0400
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Door Handle (Inside)
As many of you know, I have been struggling with trying to put in a new
window regulator. My question I have for you all now is, how do I put the
inside pull door handle back in? It looks like if i put it in first then i
can't put the lower trim piece on, but if i put the lower trim piece on
first, then i can't get the door handle in. Whats the correct procedure?
Thanks
Willie
Vin 5043
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:35:01 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: eBay items in Tampa
I just got back from looking at the sundry DeLorean items listed on eBay
that are located in Tampa, Florida. Since so many people asked my opinion
and my in box has crashed (I can't recall the individual requests from the
various list members for my opinion), I'm posting a blanket letter to the
DML for the benefit of all.
Item # 1820030188 The hood is in nice condition with no dents that I could
see; although, the light wasn't too good in the garage. The seller
commented that there were some scratches that could be buffed out.
Item # 1820040104 The drivers door appears to be complete but has a ding
about an inch in front of the door handle under the molding. This is barely
noticeable in the eBay photo. The molding likewise has minor damage.
Item # 1820037059 The left rear quarter panel has a minor ding at the wheel
well that could probably be popped out with a torch & some ice. It is
missing a small piece of molding next to the light.
Item # 1820033745 The right rear quarter panel needs more work. There is a
small dent at the front edge and another along the wheel well.
Item # 1820041723 The right front fender has an antenna hole that looks
rough cut. I suppose this is from an early '81 that had the windshield
mounted antenna replaced with the fender mounted type by a dealer. I saw
approximately two small dents that could be repaired.
Item # 1820043408 The left front fender is in similar condition to the right
front. There are similar spots that could be repaired.
Item # 1821068050 The drivers seat appears to be in excellent condition. It
had an oily coat of something on it (I assume Armor-all).
Item # 1821072410 The passenger seat is likewise in like new condition
except for some small dents on the outer edge of the seat where it looks
like something had been stored laying on top of it for a long time. The
seller suggested that these would disappear if left out in the sun a while.
Curiously I noticed that the dents were missing in the photo, so I compared
it to the photo of the drivers seat and noticed that they are identical
images only flipped over. So I suppose the seller made a mistake with his
photo editing software.
Due to other circumstances, I have opted not to bid on any of these items.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:11:29 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bonnet
there are little tabs that can be bent to "hug" the black inner. you can
use a pair of pliers to do the job but remember to put some material between
the plier jaws and the top of the bonnet as to not scratch the hood surface.
This did the trick for me
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:19 AM
Subject: [DML] Bonnet
> In my quest for a flat and level bonnet, I have
> managed to get mine to sit flat to the wings at the
> wind screen end, however the front is still sitting
> proud to the facia.
> When I press down on the offending corners they go
> exactley where they should be, closer inspection
> reveales the stainless is actually lifted away from
> the black inner.
> Is there any way of re-attaching this together?
>
> Paul
> #6463
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:42:54 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cars that use same tranny
Does anyone know what other cars were manufactured with the automatic
transmission used in the DeLorean??? Someone on the list said that
the Renault Fuego used the same one, and also an old Grumman
mailtruck.
I've found that the autotransmission used in the Renault Fuego is
designated as the MB1, or the MJ3 for the turbo edition Fuego.
Others have told me that the designation for the autotrans is the
"R-30".
Thanks,
Adam
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:21:27 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dual Key System Vin #'s
Hello,
I was looking on Pj Grady's web site and notcied that he sold repro
keys. Vin 10140 has a dual key system but according to his web site
all cars after vin 4188 have a single key setup. I know there is
always a chance that my ignition key could have been once replaced,
but i don't believe that this was the case. Also, i went to to vin
chronology and noticed that my car's vin # isn't even listed there.
Maybe my car is just a fluke.
- Shain
#10140
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:09:37 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Leather interior question
Sorry for the delay in responding, but my computer won't stay on for more
than a couple minutes. The company that fixed my leather was called Color
Glo and I think is based in Hillsboro Oregon or Beaverton. If you want you
can contact me and I can get you the phone number when I search through my
records.
payne
> Payne,
> What was the business name?
> Was his techniques franchised. I'm curious if there would be a local shop
> in my area.
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:27:16 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bonnet
Your bonnet has popped because someone tried to jam too much stuff in the
trunk. I fixed mine by removing the bonnet from the car. Then where the
ground strap goes in the front edge of the stainless attached a #4 screw and
nut onto a short "L" bracket where the bracket goes over the fiberglass
part. You probably need to clamp the stainless and fiberglass parts while
attaching the bracket so you get a tight fit. The screw is completely hidden
behind the fascia.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:19 AM
Subject: [DML] Bonnet
> In my quest for a flat and level bonnet, I have
> managed to get mine to sit flat to the wings at the
> wind screen end, however the front is still sitting
> proud to the facia.
> When I press down on the offending corners they go
> exactley where they should be, closer inspection
> reveales the stainless is actually lifted away from
> the black inner.
> Is there any way of re-attaching this together?
>
> Paul
> #6463
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 12:26:58 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
Your steering wheel bounce is a combination of warped brake rotors and a
defective steering column bushing (part#101994G $24.90). Your speedometer
problem is most likely the result of a defective angle drive. If you
determine that the angle drive is defective I suggest you purchase our PJ
Grady HCR Series Angle Drive
for long term reliability of this high failure rate component.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:44 PM
Subject: [DML] steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
> Since I purchased my D., the steering wheel bounces and clangs at
> high speeds and when I am applying the brake and slowing down. I know
> that it needs an allignment cause it pulls to the right, but I think
> something else may be going on. After reading some past postings, I
> have a feeling that the bushing needs to be replaced, but would that
> cause the bouncing when braking? I know that the brakes were
> replaced not too long before I purchased the car, so I think that
> they are OK. Any suggestions or ideas? Also, my speedometer and
> odometer are inactive. I'm sure that it is either the angle drive or
> speedo cable. I have access to a lift at my friends car dealership,
> so I'm going to put it up and take off the front left wheel. The
> only thing is, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for to
> determine my problem. Does anyone know what I should focus on and the
> way that I determine if it is operating correctly or not.
>
> Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated from this new
> Delorean owner.
>
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:32:28 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: auto transmission pan gasket
In a message dated 4/18/02 8:23:25 PM Central Daylight Time, dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Adam,
>
> You will find the Auto Trans Pan Gasket part# 103516G listed at both our
> web
> store in the "Transmission" section and PJ Grady (search box) as 103516G @
> $11.19.
>
> It is also available from DeLorean One as part # 103516 listed at 452 Auto
> Case / Pump / Seals @ $14.75.
>
> Although DMC Houston lists this item it is not delectable from their web
> store as a separate item.
As DMCJoe said here, pretty much all the vendors have the pan gasket. you are
probably thinking of the trans FILTER which is not very easy to find, as i
remember. besides, the tranny filter in ANY auto trans really doesn't need
to be changed for the life of the vehicle unless the fluid has sat and gotten
thick over many years. the trans filter isn't like an oil filter or air
filter - it doesn't technically filter the fluid, it's more of a bug screen
to catch big stuff like broken seals or foreign debris. i would say that
most people do not need to change their tranny filter, and it probably isn't
the cause of any tranny problems people might have. that is more related to
dirty fluid causing the tranny to slip or a computer problem.
it's really kind of pointless to ask the list if anyone knows if any of the
vendors have a specific part. you will get a lot more info by just calling
around!!! that way you can build a relationship with the vendors who will be
very valuable to you someday! it's quicker too than waiting for an 'i think
so' response from the list. i don't mean to complain about it, but a lot of
parts questions can be solved by simply calling your favorite vendor (and if
you don't know the vendors yet, i suggest you strike up a conversation with
one as soon as possible!!!)
Later,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 14:48:08 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Bogs on cold driveway
My son has ridden in the passenger seat of my D since he was an infant. I
used the standard car seats that are fastened with the seatbelt.
Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx [mailto:DHughes030@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 10:30 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Bogs on cold drivaway
Group,
I am completely satisfied with my cars drivability except for one aspect.
On a cold startup and driveaway, the car has a bog/hesitation on
acceleration. This last for about two miles. Does your car do this? Is
this
"cold nature" common to all D's for this short period of time due to vacuum
advance being withheld? It's not a bother, but if it's not normal I want to
work it out.
2) We have a 9 month old child. This severely limits my driving
opportunities in the D. Have any of you ventured to safely and securely
mount a child safety seat in your car? If so, can it be done in a way not
to
permanently alter the car?
Thanks, Don
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 19:42:54 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Bogs on cold drivaway
In a message dated 4/18/02 11:47:31 AM Central Daylight Time,
DHughes030@xxxxxxx writes:
> Group,
> I am completely satisfied with my cars drivability except for one aspect.
>
> On a cold startup and driveaway, the car has a bog/hesitation on
> acceleration. This last for about two miles. Does your car do this? Is
> this
> "cold nature" common to all D's for this short period of time due to vacuum
>
> advance being withheld? It's not a bother, but if it's not normal I want
> to
> work it out.
Don,
i talked to Rob Grady about this situation (i have it too) and he said it's
pretty normal for DeLoreans to be like this on super-cold starting. he
recommended letting the engine warm up for a few minutes before driving away
anyway. he also said that the only thing that helps, is sometimes a fuel
filter replacement. but not all the time. Rob said it could be a number of
things but i just had my whole fuel system serviced by him, so he knew my
setup was ok. all new ignition too. i guess it's normal!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 23:40:56 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Poll "For NON-USA owners: What country do you live in?" closed
On 18-04-2002 23:26, Yahoo! Groups Notification wrote:
Here are the final results (I deleted the options without answers):
POLL QUESTION: For NON-USA owners: What country do you live in?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Norway, 2 votes, 9.52%
- Great Brittain, 4 votes, 19.05%
- Ireland, 1 votes, 4.76%
- The Netherlands, 2 votes, 9.52%
- Germany, 1 votes, 4.76%
- Poland, 1 votes, 4.76%
- Switzerland, 1 votes, 4.76%
- Spain, 1 votes, 4.76%
- Other: Europe, 2 votes, 9.52%
- Other: Australia, 2 votes, 9.52%
- Other: North America (NON-USA), 4 votes, 19.05%
The complete results can be viewed on-line at Yahoo!-groups.
Thank you to the 20 that voted besides me,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:41:11 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Bogs on cold drivaway
The vacuum advance is controlled thermally. There's a vacuum valve connected
to a coolant pipe and will only allow vacuum to pass to the vacuum solenoid
when the engine is above 104 degees F. I would think this is an emissions
thing to prevent you from just burning a bunch of gas to overcome a
sluggish, cold engine. Once the engine warms, vacuum passes to the solenoid
which is de-energized (opened) when you hit the gas, passing the vacuum to
the distributor.
As I have learned, a centrifugal advance does exist even though vacuum
advance is not present.
If there was a way to eliminate the thermal valve from the equation, the
sluggish problem would go away. In that case, you'd have a vacuum available
to the solenoid all the time.
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:29:43 EDT
> From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Bogs on cold drivaway
>
> Group,
> I am completely satisfied with my cars drivability except
> for one aspect.
> On a cold startup and driveaway, the car has a bog/hesitation on
> acceleration. This last for about two miles. Does your car
> do this? Is this
> "cold nature" common to all D's for this short period of time
> due to vacuum
> advance being withheld? It's not a bother, but if it's not
> normal I want to
> work it out.
> 2) We have a 9 month old child. This severely limits my driving
> opportunities in the D. Have any of you ventured to safely
> and securely
> mount a child safety seat in your car? If so, can it be done
> in a way not to
> permanently alter the car?
>
> Thanks, Don
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:53:02 -0400
From: "Steve Peck" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hot Fan Breaker... Fire would be bad.
After 20 minutes or so driving with AC on, my breaker gets HOT as does the
two THICK brown wires going to it. The breaker is new, PJ Grady's
recommended upgrade. It cycles (trips) on and off about two minutes, which
is NOT good.
My Fan Fail Bypass is only about 16 gauge wire. Could that have something
to do with it? LOTS of relays are quite hot as well, but I might assume
that some of that is normal, no?
I have read any number of fixes, and see the Mini and Maxi brute packages
available. My buddy Martin is working on other fan issues, but in the mean
time I really can't afford an electrical fire. I am against that...
The "D" is back sadly in my garage until I figure this out...
Of all the dozen solutions out there, is there one that is do-able without
investing another $300?
Thanks.
-Steve Peck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:52:22 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Defroster switches..
My defroster switch has been broken since I've had my car so i dont
know what the correct operation for this switch is. Does this switch
stay in the "on" position until pressed back into the "off" position?
Or does it spring back like the window switches? I am wondering
because I may buy a new one to use as an auxilary switch for the
cooling fans.
thanks,
adam
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:35:06 -0400
From: "Steve Peck" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: turn signals &^%$#
My car had the same problem. Beneath the wheel is a plastic part that is
out 180 degrees. Pull wheel. turn, reinstall wheel. Done. Sounds easy,
but if you find a wheel puller that works, I'd like to know where you got
it...
Good luck.
-Steve Peck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 00:27:33 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Hi All,
I did make a bit of headway in my idling problem. It seems that the J&S
spark controller was the issue. However, it boiled down to a bad crimp
on one of the unit's wires, so I soldered it, and then it worked fine.
The car then idled fairly well, with just a little 'burping' here and
there. While doing some adjustments, I noticed an odd reaction. If I
backed out the set screw for the idle microswitch, the idle speed would
jump and the engine would run much more smoothly. I'm stumped on that
one.
Also I noticed that spraying a very -light- mist of carb cleaner on the
air intake resulted in a very smooth idle. This would lead me to
believe there is a vacuum leak or lean condition. I did check all of
the vacuum lines and could not see anything amiss there. So it's
running lean methinks, but perhaps due to low fuel pressure? The CO set
screw has not been tampered with.
Disconnecting the O2 sensor (but not grounding the wire) did not have
any effect on the idle.
I tried to remove the fuel distributor in an attempt to clean the
piston, but only one bolt would break free. I got around that by
bending a small piece of brake line into a curve, and inserting it down
through the intake and through the back middle of the lever on the air
plate, and sprayed carb cleaner through the line. I am fortunate enough
to have a parts engine, so I mocked this arrangement up and verified
that the cleaner did indeed hit the bottom of the piston. With the
control pressure line removed, I worked the air plate quickly back and
forth and heard/felt the little puffs of air from the outlet, and I'm
now satisfied that the piston is clean and free.
With that, I moved on to the control pressure regulator, and removed the
fuel lines and blew compressed air through the smaller port to clean the
screen (it was already spotless by the way) as per the instructions on
the Tech Page. I also shot a little carb cleaner through the idle speed
motor, and verified it was moving correctly & smoothly.
With all of that completed, I restarted the engine and the car idled
fairly smoothly, and had snappy acceleration for about an hour. Then,
it suddenly just quit, and would not restart. In fact, it still will
not start. Well, let me correct that statement -- it will start and run
briefly, then quit. And that's not just at idle, but at any
pedal/throttle position.
I tried the quicky hot-start trick by using the connector from the CPR
to the cold start injector, and the car started. So now I'm thinking
fuel pressure. (I'm ruling out an ignition problem if the car will
start with this trick, and the J&S spark controller is currently
bypassed). There is enough residual fuel pressure to give the air plate
a firm feel though. Unfortunately, I do not have a high pressure fuel
gauge as yet, so I am just guessing. Since my pump -is- rather loud, I
decided to check the suction hose in the tank. The hose is in nice
shape, but rather soft, so I am going to try the stainless steel spring
fix to ensure there will not be a collapse.
What -was- rather distressing is that some fuel additive or other had
started to melt my pump support boot. It was a new boot, but probably
from around 89 or so, and was likely made from a compound not suitable
for today's fuels. That will of course be replaced. Glad I caught it
before it got bad. It is something like black "gel" around the bottom
right now, but there is no contamination that I could see in the tank.
In fact, the baffle is still bright and clean, and the pickup screen is
clean and fully intact.
Tank problems aside, any guesses as to what I might be missing here in
diagnosing/fixing my engine problem?
-Dave Stragand
Vin #05927
http://www.projectvixen.com
54 days until Memphis!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 01:48:33 -0400
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: MACHINED SHIFT KNOBS DEFENSE
I am writing this to clear up what you may or may not be thinking about my
shift knobs.
First of all, they are machined AKA billet aluminum and stainless, not
molded like the crappy autozone third world built knobs, comparing them to
those is practically an insult. Machining is a process where the knob is cut
out of a solid piece of metal yielding a strong and precise product. This
process is used in everything precise from racing to air and space design.
Second, The Stainless costs more because of the difficulty to machine due to
the extreme hardness and the much higher cost of stainless stock.
Third, all of my shiftknobs are available in any finish from brushed like
the cars panels to polished like a mirror.
Fourth, No I did not put the pattern on the top! I feel that they are MUCH
more classy and refined without them. Let me put it this way, does Ferrari
and Lamborghini put a pattern on their knobs?(HECK NO) Why? Because in a
real car you don't need a dummy map for the gears, remember people, this is
your PRIZED DELOREAN not some city girls Honda Civic. That junky black
plastic knob belongs in a Yugo
Fifth, Why didn't you put the DMC logo on the top then? Well for one reason
it would be very costly to do that(remember these are machined, not molded).
And the biggest reason is, if your car is truly great you don't neet to
flaunt the name, the car will speak for itself. I feel that putting DMC or
Delorean all over your car is pointless, those who care about cars already
know what it is and those who don't, don't. Flaunting the Delorean name only
degrades the marque in my opinion. Please just let the cars beauty speak for
itself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lastly, Those who have checked out all of my site should have noticed I said
that I am going to make TASTEFULL parts for the car that I think Giorgetto
Giugiaro would approve of. If you don't like this, you can always have the
pattern or the logo put on the knob later.
Sincerely, Casey Putsch at chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx
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