[DML] Digest Number 964
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[DML] Digest Number 964



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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: clearwater/tampa delorean
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Re: Directional disengage no longer works properly
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Idle speed blues
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
      5. Re: clearwater/tampa delorean
           From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. MACHINED SHIFT KNOBS!
           From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: Fan Relay Upgrade
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. brake booster
           From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
     10. Re: Idle speed blues
           From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: No Parking Brake
           From: greglinstad <greglinstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Courtesy light puzzle
           From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:26:16 -0500
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clearwater/tampa delorean

Jim,

We did a restoration job on a black DeLorean from Florida several month's
ago; I don't know if the car was advertised on e-bay.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp@xxxxxxx
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
<b>
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore



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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:42:13 -0500
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Directional disengage no longer works properly

Here is a quick and simple way to center your steering wheel if it is out
of
alignment. First remove the steering wheel with a suitable puller and
replace the wheel and snug up the mounting lock nut. Drive the car on a
known straight level road and note the position of the center spoke. To
readjust the wheel park the car and slightly pull the steering wheel off
its
mounting and advance or back off (per splins) the wheel in the direction
required to align the center spoke. Repeat the procedure until correct.

CAUTION: Be sure that the steering wheel is properly secured during road
testing.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp@xxxxxxx
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
<b>
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore



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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:52:52 -0500
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)

Walter you asked:
        "I'm still trying to find out how to keep my fuel pump quiet after
it gets hot."

Your noise problem may be due to the screen-door spring you installed in
the
fuel suction hose. Fuel under high pressure may be cavitating as it passes
the spring coils the resulting bubbles will increase pump noise.

Part of the design parameters for the fuel pump mounting system is for
sound
isolation. Any mechanical connection between the pump and adjoining
components will amplify pump noise. Noise transmission will also be
amplified if the upper pump hoses are in contact with the fiberglass body.

You asked:
        "Many people have recommended installing an air dam between the
tank
& the fans. Can anyone supply photos or dimensional drawings for this?"

Contact me directly for specifications and pictures of this item.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp@xxxxxxx
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
<b>
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore



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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:01:59 -0500
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues

Steve,

You said:
        "There is a connector directly atop the splash shield (recall
thing
above the full throttle switch).  There is clearly a place for TWO plugs
to
connect there, but there is only one connector."

The addition connector is not used on manual transmission cars.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp@xxxxxxx
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
<b>
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore



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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:08:35 -0000
   From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clearwater/tampa delorean

Jim,

I'm not familiar with the particular car you speak of but
I live in Dunedin, just 2 minutes north of Clearwater. If you would 
like me to take a look at this car for you...perhaps get some digital 
photos...I'd be happy to help you out.

Contact me directly. If I can help you, I'd be happy to try.

Regards,
Eric
Dunedin, FL
VIN# 5557
ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx




--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, I was wondering if anyone on the list looked at a black 
> delorean that was for sale on ebay in the summer of 2000.

[moderator snip]



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Message: 6
   Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 00:45:10 -0500
   From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: MACHINED SHIFT KNOBS!

I will hopefully have all knob designs in stock and ready for sale by the 
end of this week. I now have a picture of a prototype knob on my site made

from aluminum. This is one of the aluminum racier designs, there will also

be another aluminum knob with 4 groves and a flatter top and of course the

Stainless Replacement Spherical knob which is ever so slightly larger in 
diameter than the origional. Go check out the site and also later in the 
week as I will put the other two knob designs on there when they are made.

Sincerely, Casey  http://putschdesign.tripod.com/PPD/



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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:26:23 +0000
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan Relay Upgrade

Shain, give me two weeks and I'll have posted my design for this very
function. I have
also worked out the system for the fan fail light which you need the stock
wiring to be
able to use.

A microcontroller is a bit of an overkill IMO. A couple of comparators and
some RC timers
are all I'm going to use. It keeps things simple.

Martin
#1458

shainbrannan wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I was wondering if someone had a diagram or a how to on how to modify
> the fan relay so that each has it's seprate relay?  I know a good
> amount of people have had good look with this setup.  Once i do this
> then i could come up with a microcontroller setup to have a delay so
> that the one fan comes on after the orgional, some sort of delay.
>
> - Shain
> #10140




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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:32:01 +0000
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)

Somthing else occurred to me as I sat in traffic today watching my temp
guage climb and
listening to my almost new pump start to make a racket. I was down to
about 1/3 of a tank
and have recently added the bottom baffle plate (missing on early cars),
and properly
routed the fuel drain back to the baffle. The fuel pump is drawing the
same fuel over and
over from the very small reservoir that is the baffle. I would not be at
all surprised if
the fuel in the baffle is considerably hotter than in the surrounding tank
when you are
in traffic as a) you're not using much of the fuel being pumped round and
b) the fuel
will not be agitated much.

I have noticed a marked increase in the noise of my pump since adding the
drain hose
rather than just letting it drop back into the tank as I had it before.

Martin
#1458

wingd2@xxxxxxx wrote:

> In a message dated 3/28/02 6:48:12 PM Central Standard Time,
> msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> > Last summer members of the DeLorean Club of Ohio drove to London,
Ontario.
> > We spent a very long time waiting in line at the Canadian border with
our
> > engines and air conditioners running.  None of us overheated or broke
down,
> > but by the time we got into Canada *all* of our fuel pumps were
screaming.
> >
> >




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Message: 9
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 12:24:41 EST
   From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: brake booster

Hi,
    Now that I am using the D almost  every day I want to get the power 
brakes working.  I checked for vacuum where the hose comes into the
booster 
and it has good pressure.  Is it probable that the booster itself is bad?

What else can I check?

Thanks
David



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Message: 10
   Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:25:50 +0100
   From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues

>From your description it seems that your idle speed switch is missing.
That
would cause the problem you are describing.

Tom Niemczeski
vin 6298 (FOR SALE)
tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx


----- Original Message -----
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 5:18 AM
Subject: [DML] Idle speed blues

[moderator snip]

> The idle motor vibrates with the engine off, so that's OK from one
> perspective (thank the wallet Gods).  The valve on the right valve
> cover (forgot that bugger's name) buzzes like an angry hornet, and
> the full throttle switch when pressed increases the idle about 50 RPM.

[moderator snip]



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Message: 11
   Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:09:56 -0800
   From: greglinstad <greglinstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Parking Brake

Payne (#2975) and List,
As Payne mentioned (and others have previously) about the inability to get
the parking brake to hold firmly, I discovered last week why mine never
worked very well either. Missing pads is sometimes the problem, but mine
were new. I decided to totally remove the support bracket that holds the
hand brake assembly in place to see if I could find out why no matter how
much adjustment I made to the brake units at the wheels the handle would
feel OK, but not hold well. After removing the handle from the mounting
bracket, it became quite obvious immediately what the problem was. The
support bracket had cracked in two places and one spotweld had broken
loose. This caused the fixed surface where the brake cables start from to
be bent back each time the handle was pulled, and was now about 2 inches
away from its' original position. This was not at all obvious until
removal.  I straightened the bracket, had it re-welded, and after some
slotting of holes put it back on, did some adjusting at the wheels and I
now have a totally functioning hand brake! Payne said "but I really had to
yank it hard."and "I can pull the handle up as hard as I can..." and this
is what I used to do, and what probably worsened my problem so be careful.
Pulling harder on the hand brake handle is not the correct way to overcome
a poor holding parking brake and may do more harm than good. After
removing my bracket I noticed that the way it was mounted to the floor and
sidewall did put a lot of extra stress on the bracket as the body flexed,
and could have been a contributing factor to the cracking. Remove the seat
first (only 4 nuts from below) for easy access.
FYI, YMMV

Greg Linstad
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club
VIN#  3507   120,000 + miles
Washington plate  "RUSTLSS"
pndc.org  



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Message: 12
   Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 23:34:56 EST
   From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Courtesy light puzzle

There are three diodes located at the front left edge of the console, one 
red, one black, and the other blue. Remove them one at the time and check 
them with an ohm meter.  One or more are probably bad.
       Don  VIN 6860



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