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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: What happened to one of the BTTF DeLoreans
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Re: Idle Speed thermistor
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: Antenna Wires
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. carfax
From: "Aaron Husak" <aaronhusak@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. G.N.D.N (Goes Nowhere Does Nothing)
From: "jmanis2" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. fastest delorean?
From: crazycracker731@xxxxxxx
8. WAS John Delorean and Reliability...NOW saving the cars (LONG)
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
9. RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Idle Speed thermistor
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Re: John Delorean and Reliability.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Delorean Sighting
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: John Delorean and Reliability.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: What happened to one of the BTTF DeLoreans
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Scotch Brite pads
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: fastest delorean?
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Idle Speed thermistor
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. brake fluid leakage
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. The Adventures of a Cadillac Alternator (long!)
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: fastest delorean?
From: crazycracker731@xxxxxxx
21. Re: tire balancing
From: steven.rogers@xxxxxxxxxxxx
22. RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Can you grease those squeaky shocks?
From: "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: WAS John Delorean and Reliability...NOW saving the cars (LONG)
From: "dmcjohn" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Re: Coils
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:11:58 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What happened to one of the BTTF DeLoreans
The BTTF DeLorean shown in these pictures is one of the cars that was only shot from the
outside. The give away is the unique steering wheel. The button controls on the
steering wheel were never used in the movies.
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 07:55:51 -0500 (EST)
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Idle Speed thermistor
Hello,
I noticed that the location is under the air intake. Is there a way to gain access to it without removing the whole intake? Or is there a wire lead that i would be able to gain access to?
- Shain
#10140
----- In Response To -----
> Shain, Eric and group, The thermistor starts off at about 10,000
> ohms cold. It's 41Degrees this morning, so in my storage containers,
> that was the start. If you just hold it in you hand while taking a
> reading, the ohmage will drop. Be sure to use a good digital VOM,
> some of the older and cheaper analog meters may load the circuit
> to much. Measure right across the terminals.
> John
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:53:25 -0800
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Antenna Wires
blue is usually a remote wire that turns it on. on car amps they also run a blue, red
and black wire. the red wire is positive, the black wire is ground and the blue wire
attaches to the blue wire on the radio. when the radio is turned on it sends a signal
and turns the amp on. there should be some type of remote wire on the stock radio that
would signal like the blue wires on aftermarket radios.
hope this helps
mark
Jason Rowe wrote:
> Hello all.
> I have a quick and potentially dumb question for some of you.
> What are the 3 wires ( yellow, white, brown ) that go to the power antenna?
> Reason I ask is that I'm putting an aftermarket antenna in and I can't seem
> to get it to go up or down.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:46:22 -0800
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
it looks to me like when you attach the heating and cooling controls to the new plate it
will hide the metal and when you remove the stock radio and vent you will see a black
plastic plate that originally hid the metal on the original bracket. i have seen setups
like this on other cars and from the picture it looks like there is a black plastic
plate that is covering the metal after you remove the vent and radio you should see it
clear.
correct me if im wrong
mark
Kevin Abato wrote:
> (Please go to this web page pictures to ref. the topic below:
> http://24.46.235.195:81/images/temp/)
> Below (http://24.46.235.195:81/images/temp/) is a picture of my original OEM
> console with the new DIN cut replacement console from DMC Houston on the
> right. My question is, When I install the new DMC console, it does not have
> a black finish like the original.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:57:28 -0600
From: "Aaron Husak" <aaronhusak@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: carfax
Does anyone have a current Carfax account that can look up a VIN for me?
Please respond off-list if you do.
Regards,
Aaron
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 20:05:03 -0000
From: "jmanis2" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: G.N.D.N (Goes Nowhere Does Nothing)
A few quick questions about the electronics compartment...
I believe I have the updated relays in my car as they are all either
Bosch (with a marker strip diagonally across them) or Pektron (HRW
Timer, Curtosey delay relay, and Resistor. Also the fain fail is
replaced witha fused 3wire jumper. Am I correct in this
assumption? Is there anything else I need to do concerning this area.
What happens if I disconnect the red wire from the Door lock module
as DMC Joe recommends. Will the power locks be disabled entirely?
What is supposed to be hooked up to the Door lock thermal trip
relay? Mine has three wires, Red going to the Door lock Mod, Brown
going to the wireing harnes, and a Second Red wire on the same tab as
the brown and going nowhere and doing nothing.
Finally, what is the extra connector hanging out in there. It also
has three wires, white/red stripe, blue/black stripe, and black. Is
this where I plug in the Flux? I'd hate to burn it out seeing how
expensive those flux capacitors are these days.
Thanks
Jeff
#10544
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:53:31 EST
From: crazycracker731@xxxxxxx
Subject: fastest delorean?
What is the fastest anyone has had there delorean go? Turbo on not?
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:38:44 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: WAS John Delorean and Reliability...NOW saving the cars (LONG)
I have to disagree with the Back to the Future films saving the car.
However, the films did create a new generation of owner (NON-car enthusiasts)
that weren't alive or interested when the car was introduced in 1981. The
"car buffs" (people that have driven everything) and enthusiasts quickly
disregarded the DMC as out of date, slow, poor quality, too expensive, etc.,
etc.
However, there is a healthy curiosity interest, even though 3-4,000 out
of the 8,500 cars are accounted for. Where are the other 4,000 DMC's?????????
Unfortunately, John DeLorean turned his back on his fans & the owners
of the DMC for over 20 years. He only came to an event (Cleveland) when he &
his daughter were paid to attend. However, over the years he was willing to
sign copies of his autobiography & DMC literature.
The biggest savior was the team at Consolidated International, Columbus
Ohio. They were the only interested investor with the wherewithal and
resources to keep the car on the road.
(there were many interested in saving DMC, such as, Jean Farnan of Maryland,
Peter Kalikow of NYC & H.D. Norman of Auburn, Alabama. They couldn't agree
who would control DMC or raise sufficient private investment)
Their option to lease the factory, which enabled CI to buy the cars in
inventory, including the parts for car in inventory @ Belfast and Irvine,
then ship them to NYC then on to Columbus, saved the cars and kept them on
the road.
Many of the original owners, frustrated, disappointed, dissatisfied,
eventually gave up, sold at a huge loss, donated to charity, who knows
what..., to get rid of the cars. The massive write off & loss, even though
the parts were here in the USA. Many owners didn't even know about the
inventory of parts still available today.
Have you ever entertained the question "Where can you get parts for 'em?"
Just imagine trying to scour the European countryside, speaking French,
German, Dutch, etc., etc., to buy a part for the DMC.
Without this foresight of KAPAC there wouldn't be a DeLorean Motor
Center, DeLoreanOne, PJ Grady, Houston, Darryl, Baurle, Zilla, John H., or
even a DeLorean in BTTF.
In addition, when the DeLorean first arrived to the United States, an
owners club had already been formed 1980. ONE of the first clubs was featured
in a Forbes magazine article from 1982. The article classifies the typical
DeLorean owners meeting as, "champagne and caviar served on sterling
stainless."
The owners clubs, specifically the DeLorean Owners Association formed in
1983, the independent service centers & specialists in DeLorean automobiles,
the original dealerships that continue to service DMC's, the DeLorean World
magazine, KAPAC, and lastly, the Internet explosion and slow evolvement of
this mailing list have all contributed to the life of the DMC.
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:49:59 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
ok...."Wrong"
That black plastic plate on the original bracket IS the front of the
bracket...it can not be removed (that I can tell...someone correct me if I
am wrong)
-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 1:46 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
> it looks to me like when you attach the heating and cooling
> controls to the new plate it will hide the metal and when
> you remove the stock radio and vent you will see a black
> plastic plate that originally hid the metal on the original
> bracket. i have seen setups like this on other cars and from
> the picture it looks like there is a black plastic plate that
> is covering the metal after you remove the vent and radio you
> should see it clear.
> correct me if im wrong
> mark
[moderator snip]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 22:37:41 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Idle Speed thermistor
Shain, The intake has to come out to replace the thermister. You can test the
resistance w/o taking it off. Just have to fine the two wires and tap off
them for the resistance measurements. Check it cold then crank the car and
watch the resistance go down.
John
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 22:46:10 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: John Delorean and Reliability.
Bob, Thanks for the comment on the coil. I have been trying to tell everyone
for more than a year, electrical has to be updated as well and not wait for
something to break. The new 18,000 volt coil does take a new resistor, but I
can wrap my car upto 6000 rpm's easy. I don't recommend it, but 5500 is no
problem. If you don't have a good electrical system in the car, battery and
alternator, the car can't achieve it's maximum. It will also run better.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 00:03:39 -0500
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Sighting
Hi all,
I spotted a Delorean on Friday night traveling on Purchase Street (Route 120) here in Purchase, NY. Just curious to know if it's anyone on this list. I was coming off the Hutchison Parkway waiting at the light to get off the off ramp when she came driving down the street. By the time the light turned green, I couldn't find him. Wondering if it's anyone here. Be well all.
-Aaron Crocco
NY Plate: OUTATYM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 05:13:39 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: John Delorean and Reliability.
Ignition coils do not last forever!! I have found that even when a car
starts right up and seems to run fine the coil can break down under
high loads such as high RPM's. Since most owner's coils are over 20
years old it is no surprise to me that replacing a coil can make the
car run better even if it seems to run fine now. Just don't use an
N.O.S. coil as it too would be over 20 years old, it just was sitting
on a shelf. Same goes for the ignition wires, cap, rotor, and spark
plugs as electric will jump at the weakest link. Sticking in a hot new
coil can cause other weak areas to appear.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Bob, Thanks for the comment on the coil. I have been trying to tell
everyone
> for more than a year, electrical has to be updated as well and not
wait for
> something to break. The new 18,000 volt coil does take a new
resistor, but I
> can wrap my car upto 6000 rpm's easy. I don't recommend it, but 5500
is no
> problem. If you don't have a good electrical system in the car,
battery and
> alternator, the car can't achieve it's maximum. It will also run
better.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:24:21 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What happened to one of the BTTF DeLoreans
They said the car was used to slide the rear end around, and they
had to remove the engine because of too much weight. THe only part I
can think of in the movie that this happends was when Einstein went
back in time and then you saw the delorean slide.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
> The BTTF DeLorean shown in these pictures is one of the cars that
was only shot from the
> outside. The give away is the unique steering wheel. The button
controls on the
> steering wheel were never used in the movies.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:49:19 -0000
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Scotch Brite pads
What is the part number or grade that is used to clean scratch off
deloreans steel frames.
Thanks Hugo
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 01:33:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fastest delorean?
The fastest ever was a 700 HP DeLorean. There's an article about it on
Tamir's website somewhere (I just looked breifly, but couldn't find it).
His site is: http://www.entermyworld.com
This car is currently at the DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove, CA.
When I was last down there I asked Don Steger (the owner) why a certain
DeLorean had a strange looking heat shield that was visible from the rear.
He smiled and said "that was the fastest DeLorean on the planet". I had
read about it, but didn't realize that it was there. As I recall it was in
a head-on collision. For more information about it you can contact Don at
the DeLorean Motor Center (www.deloreanmotorcenter.com) or ask Tamir where
the article is hidden (no disrespct to his website as it is one of the -
if not THE best site out there). I'm just too tired to find it. :)
-Christian
On Sun, 17 Feb 2002 crazycracker731@xxxxxxx wrote:
> What is the fastest anyone has had there delorean go? Turbo on not?
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:34:29 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed thermistor
John brings up a great point,...
When measuring high resistance values, or voltages with very low
current (such as the Lambda sensor) it's always a good idea to use a
decent DMM (Digital Multi Meter) or DVM. The internal impedance of a
DMM is very high, and won't load down the circuit you're reading.
Some analog meters have a low impedance and may give you an
inaccurate reading by changing the circuit you are reading.
Eric
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Shain, Eric and group, The thermistor starts off at about 10,000
ohms cold.
> It's 41Degrees this morning, so in my storage containers, that was
the start.
> If you just hold it in you hand while taking a reading, the ohmage
will drop.
> Be sure to use a good digital VOM, some of the older and cheaper
analog
> meters may load the circuit to much. Measure right across the
terminals.
> John
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:42:51 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: brake fluid leakage
Hello All,
I've begun to notice that when my D sits for more than a week (usually
two weeks during the winter), I'm losing a bit of brake fluid. I check it
every time I take the car out (since my float broke last year), and I have
to top it off most of the time. I do not seem to lose any fluid after
driving the car (up to 100 miles), as I check it when I return as well.
What could be the most common leakage areas I can check? The car is parked
outside in the Boston area, and I do have a suspicion that large temperature
variations in the winter tend to increase the amount of leakage, as the
leakage isn't that great during the summer months when I drive more
frequently, and the temperature is more stable. (Side note - DMCJoe serviced
all the brakes and brake pads at Cleveland, and there was no evidence of any
leakage problems at that time...about 8,000 miles ago)
Thanks,
-Hank #1619
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:35:43 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Adventures of a Cadillac Alternator (long!)
[First off, let me say that I can't be held resonsible if you hurt yourself
or cuse your car to trvel in tim unexpectedly by doing what I'm about to
detail. This will be my first white paper on the Cadillac Alternator. Most
documentation on the web I found helpful, but ultimately I thought I would
document my own experiences to help anyone else who might want to try this.]
First off, my car had the original Ducy alternator and had burned through 2
batteries before I wised up. I investigated the Motorola and other
replacements from PJ Grady but decided to do it the hard (and less
expensive) way.
All of the parts that I used are available at Advance Auto. Here they are:
P7157 100 Amp Alternator from a 1980 Cadillac Deville - $69 with $30 core
DAYCO 15515 Alternator Belt - $14
Mr Gasket Co. alternator adjustment arm #9851 - $13
Calterm GM alternator plug #08602 - $3
A pack of male terminal ends - $1
I won't detail the removal of the old alternator... needless to say, just
yank that sucker outta there. Before you do, make sure you've disconnected
your battery, otherwise you'll find out why cattle prods are so effective.
Remove the adjustment arm bracket as well and save it for reference.
Take the new GM alternator plug and attach a terminal end to the red (field)
wire. The white wire isn't used, at least not in a my Ducy setup (I think
the Motorola's use it, but I don't know for sure). Attach the plug to the
alernator's terminal and snap it down. Bolt the alternator to the mounting
bracket and let it hang loose. It is a direct fit into the mounting bracket.
One thing you will notice is that it is much larger than the original and a
straight adjustment bracket won't work for it. It has to be curved. I made a
cardboard cutout of a bracket that had the approximate dimensions and the
correct curvature to it. I took it to a junkyard and found some that were
close (1982 Datsun, 196? Thunderbird) but I wasn't pleased with them so I
decided to make my own. You'll notice the #9851 adjustment bracket is VERY
long and flat. Fret not. Simply cut off the first 3 inches of the straight
end (with the 2 bolt holes) and drill a new one on that same end about an
inch from the end. Grind off the sharp edges and and smooth out the end so
you don't cut yourself on the installation. Now, here comes the fun part!
You'll notice your original bracket has a 1 inch offset. The offset puts the
bracket one inch away from the engine (towards the muffler) and attaches at
the front of the alternator beneath the fan. I chose to bend it the other
way (towards the engine) and mount it on the back of the alternator so it
would not interfere with the fan.
Using a strong vice, slide the newly created end in about 3 inches. The
curve of the top of the bracket should go to your right to mount at the way
I did it or to the left to mount the way the original bracket mounted
(undereath the fan). Keeping it perpindicular with the top of the vice (you
can protect it from the teeth of the vice with a rag) put a 45 degree bend
in it by pulling the bracket towards you. Don't be afraid to put your ass
into it, you'll need to. The metal bends smoothly, but it will take some
effort. Hammering won't work on this since it requires a constant force to
make the bend. Reposition it in the vice 1 1/2 to 2 inches farther down and
pull it towards you until the end you have in your hand is parallel to the
end that is below the vice's clamp. REMEMBER! After each of the prior steps,
check with your original bracket to make sure your angles are correct. After
a few adjustments, yours should be good.
You'll notice that the alternator adjustment bolt is too big to fit into the
slider part of the arm. Simply take a bastard file or a rasp and file the
hole length wise on the top and bottom until the bolt slides easily across
its length. The metal is soft and it shouldn't take too much effort.
The rest is simple, attach your new arm to the engine and bolt it to the
alternator. If you bent it in reverse away from the fan, the bolt will screw
easily into the back as it does in the front. Attach your belt and tension
it. Reattach your battery leads and plug in your field wire (solder or tape
to secure it). I snipped off the leftover white wire since it wasn't used in
my application. Reattach your battery and crank her up. All done. Now don't
you feel like you've accomplished something?
You'll notice that the creating of the adjustment bracket is the largest
step. I did a lot of hunting in the junkyard and spent basically a week
looking for the best option. Other options may be available to you depending
on what your local auto supply shops stock. If you are not comfortable with
the way I did it, create a template out of cardboard and see what you can
find that might be a better fit. Unfortunately, I haven't heard of anyone
getting a direct replacement without having to modify it somewhat.
I'm working on getting some pictures and converting this document into a PDF
for the Files section. Give me your feedback so I can include it before the
final version.
Enjoy!
Travis
#3512 (with a shiny new "cop car" alternator)
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:09:02 EST
From: crazycracker731@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fastest delorean?
THANK YOU YES THAT IS ONE OF THE BEST WEB SITES OUT THERE NO KIDDING THERE
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 07:53:24 -0800
From: steven.rogers@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: tire balancing
The best machine to balance tires on are by Hunter. ?Ask around for a shop
that has their machines.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steven Rogers
Irvine, California ADC
Office: 949-567-8736
Cell: 714-585-5844
Client: 330-796-9032 (mon - thurs)
Fax: 208-361-4460
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|------------------------+------------------------+------------------------|
| | id | |
| | <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxx| ? ? ? ? To: |
| | om> | dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx|
| | | om |
| | 02/15/2002 07:59 PM | ? ? ? ? cc: |
| | Please respond to | ? ? ? ? Subject: |
| | dmcnews | [DML] tire balancing |
| | | |
|------------------------+------------------------+------------------------|
i read somewhere that the delorean tires have to balanced on the car is
this true?
also can the tires be balanced on a regular tire machine instead of the
car?
mark
vin #this summer i hope
also using a mac
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:18:18 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
I remember you saying this was a gift..
Back when I ordered my bracket from the MidState DMC club, they were offering it in both Black and Stainless. I opted to get the stainless.
The Houston web site does not seem to offer this as a option, but it's possible that it may have been and your wife ordered the SS version. Why not call them and ask?
Don't paint it black. It is supposed to be textured, and I think this can be recreated with the correct process and paint. The Mid-State DMC club did offer a replica that matched the stock look (I saw it in Ohio). However, if it were me I would call Houston and ask. If it is not what you want, return it.
I don't think Mid-State sells the part any more (they don't like to compete with Houston I guess), so you may not have too many other options.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 2:20 PM
To: Dmcnews (E-mail)
Subject: [DML] Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
(Please go to this web page pictures to ref. the topic below:
http://24.46.235.195:81/images/temp/)
Below (http://24.46.235.195:81/images/temp/) is a picture of my original OEM
console with the new DIN cut replacement console from DMC Houston on the
right. My question is, When I install the new DMC console, it does not have
a black finish like the original. I originally realized this problem when I
bought the console, but DMC Houston assured me that the vents, and radio
cover all surface areas. This is not true.
If you see below, the red arrows show areas on the ORIGINAL console that are
visable to the naked eye (even when the center console is on the unit) and
those SAME areas on the replacement one now look like silver sheet metal.
What is the correct thing to do here? I bought this $150 replacement so that
the car looks unmodified. If I use this unit, IT WILL STAND OUT.
Should I spray paint it black? Will that still look good when done? What
have other people done? What does DMC Houston recommend to other buyers?
Kevin Abato
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:37:44 -0000
From: "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Can you grease those squeaky shocks?
Everytime I go over a any type of bump, my shocks squeak. They dont
bounce all around as if they were bad, they just squeak. Is there
anything that I can grease or lube to get all the squeaks out?
Thanks,
Jason
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:28:24 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: WAS John Delorean and Reliability...NOW saving the cars (LONG)
Hi Senator and list,
I disagree that John DeLorean turned his back on his fans over the
years. As you said, he was always willing to sign copies of his book,
and was interviewed by Rob Lamrock for the DeLorean world magazine
about 10 years ago. In July 1998, I called him at his home, and we
had a great conversation. During this call, he invited me to visit
him in NJ if I was in the area. After a few more phone conversations,
we met on August 1st. He still remains one of the nicest people I
ever had the pleasure of meeting. I know other people on the list
have had similar experiences...and he never received any money for
this.
I would actually say that his fans in some cases have tuned their
backs on him. Of all people on this planet, shouldn't DeLorean owners
be the ones who know the facts about the downfall of the company and
what really happened with the drugs bust. At a DMC show in LA in
1998, I was very surpised to hear some owners swapping the old
cocaine jokes, I really think that is very unfair to John DeLorean.
There is a phrase that is sometimes used on this list and it goes
something like "say what you like about the man, but the car is cool"
or something along those lines. Well of course I disagree with this
too!! We should all stick up for John DeLorean more. Probably the
best guy for sticking up for John Z. on this list is Robert Rooney in
Las Vegas. Robert, I always agree with everyting you say, but don't
always have the time to write you an email and tell you so. Anyway,
keep it up!
On a lighter note, after about 5 years of reading this list, I am
finally buying my first DeLorean next weekend in PA. It is a
September 1981, black leather, 5 speed, 13,000 miles. Wish me luck!!!
Best wishes,
John Dore. (In Boston)
PS could any D owners in the New England area contact me off list?
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Senatorpack@xxxx wrote:
> Unfortunately, John DeLorean turned his back on his fans &
the owners
> of the DMC for over 20 years. He only came to an event (Cleveland)
when he &
> his daughter were paid to attend. However, over the years he was
willing to
> sign copies of his autobiography & DMC literature.
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:14:35 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Coils
Jim,
Bob is correct. Our dyno testing a couple of years ago showed that the
different Deloreans we ran that had factory original Bosch coils in them all
had problems with the ignition systems above 4500 to 5000 rpm. The original
coils just could not supply the power required to keep the plugs firing in
the upper rpm ranges. It seems the engines require a hotter spark then the
original coils that were installed at the factory are now able to put out to
keep everything working correctly.
The "fix" I used on my turbo car was to install an aftermarket high
performance coil. I chose an "Accel #8140" coil. This unit is a direct
replacement that will even fit the original mounting bracket. It is a "plug
and play" type part and requires no additional wiring or parts. Just remove
the original coil and replace with this unit. This coil puts out about 50%
more voltage (about 22,000 volts) then the original unit and works well with
the rest of the D's ignition system. Additional dyno testing last year shows
the original ignition problems are now gone and the car will pull to 6000
plus rpm's with no problems.
Another route I looked into was to replace the ignition system with
something like an MSD Hi-Output unit. These type systems can make tons of
juice (like 50 to 65,000 volts) and can fire spark plugs under almost any
conditions. I've run these systems before on racing vehicles and they work
very well, but the problem I have with them is the life you get out of the
parts. These Hi-Output systems tend to destroy OEM distributor caps and
rotors in pretty short order because of the extreme amount of voltage you run
thru them. And unfortunately, no one makes a hi-performance distributor cap
or rotor for our cars that can take these voltages. Plus changing the cap and
rotor every 5000 or so miles on our cars is not something I'm interested in
doing, so...........
Because of my concern with parts life, last fall I removed and inspected
my OEM distributor cap and rotor and the rest of the ignition system after
having put about 10,000 miles on my car with this new Accel 8140 coil and
found everything to be in excellent shape. It appears the service life of the
other parts in the ignition system should not be affected to any great extent
thru the use of this hi-performance coil.
One other bit of info, for what it's worth. When we did our 2nd round of
dyno testing this past fall, we also ran another D which had a stock ignition
system but was running a NEW (20 year old) OEM Bosch replacement coil from
DMC Houston, and this car pulled 6000 plus rpm with NO ignition problems
either.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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