To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 9 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Window tint issues From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> 2. Vent troubles From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Exhaust returning from tips From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Vacuum issue? From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: engine info From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> 6. Part required From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 7. Coil From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx> 8. DeLorean Article From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 9. RE: Vacuum issue? From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 04:36:01 -0000 From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Window tint issues I've seen the exact same thing on DeLorean's too, and it does look odd when all the glass but the rear has been tinted. The other thing too (and I don't know if this happens on other peoples' cars) is the glare from the light off the rear facia lip. That birght glare from the back, when all other glass is dark can be pretty distracing for your eyes to have to refocus I would imagine. I've seen some cars where the top of the windshield is tinted to stop sun glare. But rather than being a stripe, it's smoked to it fades to clear. What if you were to do this on the rear glass? But instead of being from the top down, you could go from the center out. The center would be the same darkness as all other glass, but the ends would be clear. To hide this, you could probably transition the tint from dark to clear in the "blind spot" areas of the rear glass. It would be less of a distraction to you, because all angles would appear to have the same color. And when looking from behind thru the louvers, the glass would appear tinted the same. And of course when you looked thru the quarter panel glass, their tinting would hide the clear outer portions of the glass looking into the passenger compartment. And when you had the lourvers up, it would give a nicer appearance for the rear glass. I know that this was probably a post that should have gone directly to Walt, but I'm also curious if anyone else here knows if it could be done. If yes, I may then consider a window tint for my own car. This is the very reason I never thought about one... -Robert vin 6585 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > I'm going to have my windows re-tinted and would like some opinions on the > best way to handle the rear window & quarter panels. The previous owner > tinted the doors & the quarter panels, but didn't tint the rear window. I > would like to tint at least part of the rear window, but I don't want to > obstruct my view by looking through two tinted windows <SNIP> >My original idea was to tint only > a center section of the rear window so that when looking through any of the > quarter panel glass from the driver's seat, then I would be looking around > the tinted area on the rear window. But something tells me this might look > tacky. > > Walt Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:00:44 -0000 From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Vent troubles No matter what mode I turn the blower to, it is stuck blowing air through the floor vents. I've been reading through the archives and found this problem listed many times. From what I can tell it's either the acuators or the mode switch itself. The switch seems fine. I pulled it out and could see no broken pieces. Is there some way to test it function? How about the actuators? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:06:27 -0000 From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Exhaust returning from tips This past Saturday I noticed light gray smoke coming from the engine. My butt puckered. Frantically, I lifted the louvres to find the source. I discovered that it was only exhaust coming from the rear of the chrome exhaust tips back into the engine, yet I was still getting exhaust to the outside as well. I took the tips off and saw no obstructions. Should these have some sort of heat resistant gasket or is this just some sort of freaky goings-on? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:54:01 -0500 From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Vacuum issue? Noticed my car performs OK in low gear but bucks as I move up in RPM and gears (this started a couple weeks ago when I changed the antifreeze). I initially was thinking it was the transmission slipping but the more I drove it the more it felt like the engine was missing on an irregular basis. This symptom is making me lean toward a vacuum leak. That in mind, I am looking for a list showing all vacuum lines, connectors, locations, and part numbers/sizes on our car. In addition to the lines, I would be interested in your thoughts of what other components are potential gremlins I should examine? I know I can use the vacuum routing label and section 7.3.0 of the manual for some of the highlights but was wondering if anything existed as a checklist without going to tracing individual lines and/or extracting numerous pages from the manual. I don't mind doing this if needed (and will be happy to document if this is the route I have to take); however, I would prefer not to re-invent the wheel if it already exists. As a side bar, my car was running fine until I flushed the coolant system (because I had replaced most of the hoses). During the flush I did spill some antifreeze on the engine. After this my water pump and idler pulleys started making noise so I sprayed them with a penetrating lubricant (P B Blaster). This seemed to stop the noise (it has been driven about 50 miles). Looked through the archives and didn't see anything along this line. Thanks, Ed 10541 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:11:53 -0500 From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: engine info You asked: "....first of all the engine, I have seen in a few places that the PRV-6 was in a few Volvos. my question is exactly which years and models and how different." The B-28F PRV-6 engine was used in the 79-81 Volvo 260 GLE and 82-87 760 GLE's. The latest version of this engine, B-280, was used in all 88-89 760 GLE and 90 780 models. The DeLorean uses a modified version of the B-28F however it is not directly interchangeable with the Volvo version. The Volvo 260 and GLE's were the top of the line luxury models and accounted for less than 10% of total sales for the years they were sold. For this reason they are quite rare. I have first hand knowledge of this situation because I owned an 80 260 GLE several years back and now own and drive an 90 760 GLE. DMC Joe DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx www.dmc.tv http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 3:44 AM Subject: [DML] engine info > [MODERATOR'S NOTE: This topic has been covered quite extensively in the past. My recollection is that the DMC engine is a modified version of a PRV and that no direct equivalents exist.] > > Hi, > > I am new to the list but have been in love with the DMC for a long time. I > will be building one step by step. I have built other cars and I have found > the 4 year plan works well for me. so I have started on year one. in year > one I usually do two things, intelligence (research) and engine. so for the > research part I turn to the list... a few things that have been hinted at > but not made 100% clear are the following. first of all the engine, I have > seen in a few places that the PRV6 was in a few Volvos. my question is > exactly which years and models and how different. I saw on one site that > mentioned the 700 series and the 600 series > > Darkstar > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:50:12 -0000 From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Part required Just a quickie Does anyone have a Rear Hub Carrier LH part No. 100469 they would like to sell? Mine has fractured where the heli coil goes in to hold the Brake calliper on. NOT GOOD!!! Cheers Paul #6463 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 20:29:31 +0100 From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx> Subject: Coil Hi, I went to my local Volvo dealer today and asked for a coil for a Volvo 760 (83 mod). They wanted 1000,- norwegian krones for it, that is almost 100 USD. There is no way that I am going to pay 100$ for a coil - It would almost be cheaper to buy one from the US - including shipping. Does anyone know the Bosch part number on the original coil for the D? Maybe I can get a better price at the local Bosch shop. And if I should buy a "regular" coil, what should I look for, and what about the original resistor - should I bypass it? Thanks. Regards, Wilhelm Starberg. VIN #10816 - Norway ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 19:20:08 -0500 From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: DeLorean Article There is a great write up on our cars in the January issue of Motor Age magazine. It's a dealer repair trade magazine. I was making an appt for my Jeep and the service folks said "hey we've got a magazine here for you". I picked it up today and the author Richard McCuistian from Alabama teaches at the Douglas MacAuthur State Technical College. He had alots of great things to say about the car as well as a write up on diagnosing a car he had there with rough idle. Call your local dealer as see if they have this issue. Tom Watkins #005732 http://www.geocities.com/outatime81 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:51:26 -0600 From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Vacuum issue? Make sure that you did not get water in the spark plug wells. Scott Mueller 002981 -----Original Message----- From: Ed Garbade [mailto:edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 9:54 AM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] Vacuum issue? Noticed my car performs OK in low gear but bucks as I move up in RPM and gears (this started a couple weeks ago when I changed the antifreeze). I initially was thinking it was the transmission slipping but the more I drove it the more it felt like the engine was missing on an irregular basis. This symptom is making me lean toward a vacuum leak. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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