To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 6 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: 20 year old appology!!! From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: Re: TA bolt incedence! From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx> 3. Re: RE: trailing arm bolt incident From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx> 4. RE: Best built DeLoreans From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Novice Maintenance Questions From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Re: Novice Maintenance Questions From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 11:37:57 -0000 From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: 20 year old appology!!! The price has not been finalised yet, however it is going to be around £200 - £250 for both seats. I have spoken to them to see if they would be interested in doing more. Bottom line is they want to see how mine turn out before making the decision, However from mine they will then have a New complete set of patterns... When done I will post some before and after pictures for you all to see and comment on. Watch this space Cheers Paul #6463 ----- Original Message ----- From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 12:29 AM Subject: RE: [DML] 20 year old appology!!! > If you don't mind my asking, what did it cost, including shipping, to get > one or the set of seats recovered? They sound like they do excellent work > and if the price is not too outrageous, perhaps worth getting done! > > David > #6377 > Cleveland > jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 23:09:06 -0500 From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: TA bolt incedence! > When torquing the TA bolts to 55 ft/lbs (with the weight of the car on the > suspension) I am assuming that you hold the nut stationary. When double > nutting the TA bolt, what do you torque the second nut to? The way I did mine was I held the bolt still and torqued the nut. Doing it the other way by holding the nut still and torquing the bolt would give an inaccurate reading because in addition to the tightening torque, you are also measuring the friction forces of the bolt turning inside of the washers, sleeve, spacers, etc. I have an automatic transmission which makes space in there even more cramped. To measure torque, I used a crowfoot socket on my torque wrench which throws in another variable, but there was no room to get a real socket in there. According to DMC Joe, torque the first nut on the TAB to 60 ft-lbs. Then tighten the lock nut to 55 ft-lbs. I think I remember hearing him say that going much tighter than 60 will begin to crush the sleeve in the rubber bushing. I didn't bother double nutting the front (of the pair of bolts) that hold the bushings to the frame. Again, there was no room to work. The OEM configuration didn't have them there either (on the automatic). I hate to think that anyone would trust an alignment shop to do this work. I had Sears check my alignment. They told me to remove one shim on one side to make it perfect. Now I'm reluctant to do this because I don't want to fatigue the bolt by retorquing it a second time. Since Sears seemed competent with the DeLorean, I trusted them with my truck and they ROYALLY screwed it up (long off topic story). I will NEVER trust a shop again. Period. If anyone can suggest an alignment procedure for toe-in that can be done at home, I'd like to know it. I've used string and measuring tapes with reasonable accuracy. Reg Pearce who makes the SS frames told me he aligned his with straight 2x4's as a guide. He had Sears check it afterwards and it was just right. Walt Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:23:24 -0800 From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: RE: trailing arm bolt incident did anyone look at pearce design products? he offers a new trailing arm and support bracket that would eliminate these "toby bolt" problems. check it out. http://www.pearce-design.com/PFImprovements.html mark Darryl Tinnerstet wrote: > Adam, maybe you missed my earlier post in November concerning the > once-available trailing arm support bracket. Since its an important topic > that comes up occasionally, with the moderator's consent I'd like to repeat > it: ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 15:13:53 +0100 From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Best built DeLoreans Now that VIN number is interesting! Are you sure that 9506 is your correct VIN number??? If so, I'd love to see a photo of it. According to the factory documents, last 81 car was 7199 and first 82 was 10001 Best wishes Stian Birkeland Norway VIN # 6759 (november 81) Message: 14 Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:58:45 EST From: dmcimf@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Best Built DeLoreans My November 1981 D is WONDERFULL. Bill vin# 9506 DMCIMF@AOL [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 04:52:49 -0000 From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Novice Maintenance Questions Since you appear to be new to Deloreans I would recomend you read the owner's manual. I also suggest you have the brake and clutch fluid flushed and refilled with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4. Also flush and replace the anti-freeze. Keep the tires inflated as per the label in the glove box. Consider installing a Fanzilla and unless you have a Lockzilla disconnect the lock module. Have the car checked for the installation of the recalls and relay upgrades. If you don't have the Workshop Manual and Parts Manual get them. You may not understand them but they will be very helpful to whoever you take your car to for service. Find the nearest group of "D" owners and they will help you also. Depending on mileage and age you may be due for a complete tune-up, not just an air filter. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxx> wrote: > I drive it, I don't repair it, so here are some dumb > questions > 1 - what kind of oil should I use? > 2 - Where can I get the right kind of filter? > 3 - Can Jiffy Lube handle an oil change? (I really do > not have the facility to change oil) > 4 - Is the oil place on the driver's side, at the top > of a valve cover (remove a hose first) > 5 - Is there an air filter to change? > 6 - The guide pully squeaks on the a/c until the car > warms up, any suggestions? > Thanks for your responses for a driver, non-mechanic. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 23:23:48 -0500 From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Novice Maintenance Questions [MODERATOR NOTE The downloadable parts manual is at http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html and the interactive hyperlinked parts manual is at http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_soft.htm ]--dave First I suggest you go to http://www.dmcnews.com and click on their link to the technical section. Lots to read so you can begin to get a feel (won't answer all your questions) for your car. Also, near the bottom of the technical section page there is a link to a page where you can download a PDF Parts Manual for reference. There is also a list of significant contacts (vendors and support pages) for you to see there too. In addition, I may be able to find a link to a parts database which is basically the parts manual with search capabilities. I'm on the road so I don't have that site right now; however, if you want this database, please send me a note off list (edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx). It reall helps me plan. Next, call one of the vendors and buy the parts and shop manual. Its nice to have it on the computer but that does you no good unless you plan on taking your CRT into the garage under your car. Good luck, Ed 10541 >From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >To: DMC Newsgroup <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: [DML] Novice Maintenance Questions >Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:54:30 -0800 (PST) > >I drive it, I don't repair it, so here are some dumb >questions >1 - what kind of oil should I use? >2 - Where can I get the right kind of filter? >3 - Can Jiffy Lube handle an oil change? (I really do >not have the facility to change oil) >4 - Is the oil place on the driver's side, at the top >of a valve cover (remove a hose first) >5 - Is there an air filter to change? >6 - The guide pully squeaks on the a/c until the car >warms up, any suggestions? >Thanks for your responses for a driver, non-mechanic. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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