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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: A thank you to the fine Senator
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
2. Leather treatment
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
3. Re: AC-panellight conversion (was URL request)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
4. Driving at night - WAS:SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
6. White Smoke
From: "Joshua Shain" <JoshyBallgame@xxxxxxx>
7. It happened one night. . .
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: gear change
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. A Bit Off Topic
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: White Smoke
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Auto tranny governor
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:17:42 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: A thank you to the fine Senator
DML,
Fuel over the pump is a bad thing!!! The fuel hazards over the pump is
a long story. Historically, DeLorean Motors was criticized by the federal
government's NHTSA crash test of the DMC-12. The DMC-12 performed reasonably
well @35 mph barrier crash test, however the car leaked fuel into the
interior as well as into the environment. ((Interia switch recall))
The government uses a special dye mixed into the fuel systems of cars
during a crash test. ((I gave this NHTSA test analysis to John Truscott of
DeLorean Owners Association in 1995. The two of us discussed the crash
worthiness of the DMC-12 & fuel leaks as well as fuel contamination. John and
I spoke at great length about this to Chris Parnham at the 1997 Eurofest ))
On VIN 2109 the pump cover & boot along with the main and return fuel
lines were original and deteriorated. The pump was just laying in the tank
opening, and huge amount of dirt, rust, water and other contaminants was
evident inside and out of the tank. The smell of stale gas was overwhelming
upon initial inspection.
The engine timing & overall performance was WAY off as the previous
butchers tried to keep the car running by cutting corners, poor workmanship
and using the WRONG PARTS!
Instead of using the correct parts & maintained the car properly, the
original owner cut corners and added more frustration to the mix for VIN 2109.
The fuel distributor was rusted out, injectors were damaged, sparks plugs
were fouled as well as the warm up regulator. Fuel filter had water and
looked suspect. ((Someone on the DML checked this car out during the
pre-purchase inspection. I must say that they really dropped the ball and
overlooked the most common maladies on this car!))
However, after some serious work Mike & I were able to get the car
repaired correctly. The ease of it was having the correct expensive parts
from DeLorean vendor(s) and DeLorean advice from Rob Grady, the car is safely
back on the road.
Your welcome Mike. I'm happy that your car is running well. I appreciate
your sincere comments and welcome to the District Marque Club: DMC, an owners
& enthusiasts association of historic, classic and exotic automobiles.
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
DMClub, Founder & President
In a message dated 01/09/2002 9:03:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
billsfanmd@xxxxxxx writes:
<< Subj: [DML] A thank you to the fine Senator
Date: 01/09/2002 9:03:20 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Reply-to: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I wanted to take a few minutes to let the list know how helpful a fellow
list
member was to me. Having bought a Delorean from the west coast (I live in
MD)
i took a big risk buying the car and having it shipped here. After getting
the car it seemed to be in great shape. However, I wanted to get someone
here
in MD's opinion on the car. I was told by a list member to find Senatorpack
here in MD who is president of the Maryland Delorean chapter. After several
great phone calls Mike was willing to come over and spend the day going over
the car and giving me some pointers.
After several hours of going over each part of the car, Mike and I headed to
his favorite place, PepBoys, we picked up all the neccesary cleaning
supplies, protectants and a few other misc parts. After giving me an
education on the car we were nearing the end o f the inspection when mike
first noticed the problem. He smelled the gas tank and told me I may have a
problem. He was right. After remeoving spare tire and the fuel pump cover we
discovered why i smelled fuel all the time. There was 2 inches of gas on my
fuel pump which was now listing like the Titantic, submerged and a major
hazard.
"I would not drive this car another foot" he calmly said.....
We sat down and made a list of everyting i would need to redo my fuel system
and then do a tune up. I ordered the parts and we began. For two days I
watched as Mike would meticulously use liqiuid wrench to get bolts apart
that
had been stuck for twenty years. First the fuel pump was redone, complete
with new hoses, then the gas tank was cleaned to the plastic......this next
part I think needs to go down in Delorean lore. If anyone has disconeected
the 2 fuel hoses you will notice the 2 metal pipes that disappear into the
body of the car. each of the pipes has a metal nut that screws into you're
replacement hose...well somehow i managed to push that nut up the hose and
it
disppeared into the frame of the car!!!! I almost died....after an hour of
mike on his back, upside down like a contorshonist with my wifes compact
mirror, a flashlite and a little grabber claw it seemed it was hopeless. He
was about to give up and said we may need to drop half the bottom of this
car
from the frame to reach that screw.....Mike did not give up!!!! for another
hour he tried every imaginable option, including, magnets, ESP, cussing, the
middle finger and a few other Delorean explatives including some
engineeering
comments that can not be repeated here...after 2 hours he somehow able to
convince that piece to slide back down saving my car from stting on blocks
for the winter...
Over the next 2 weekends we basically redid the fuel/ ignition system. Mike
did all of this for the love of the car. He basically gave up 3 of his
weekends to help a fellow Delorean owner. His advice, help, time and
enthusiam for this car is one of the reasons the Delorean should never die
out.
I could write another 5 pages of the little things he did to help me with
the
car but I just wanted to publicly thank him. The car is now at a local shop
getting all the adjustments and settings set back to factory specs. There
are
many other list members I would like to thank but just wanted to tell Mike
thank you for you're time and helping a new owner appreciate the car. I hope
someday to pass on any knowledge and help another new owner live the dream.
I
really feel like part of the responsibilty of owning a Delroean is sharing
what u know with everyone from list members to perfect strangers, because
just like a company is jugded by the people it employs, the Delorean is now
be judged by the people that drive them....
Again, a long overdue thank you to Senator Pack....Now Mike told me anyone
else looking for free work should not hesitate to call a different list
member....Anyone out there with a low mileage Delorean you want to donate to
a worthy person Just call the senator...
mike cohee
vin 2109
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:50:57 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Leather treatment
I'm very picky about my interior and leather seats. I use the Leatherique
as well as products from Griots Garage. Both are expensive, however the
products are well worth it. I use it in the cars, my chairs at my office and
my leather sofa. Rolls Royce uses Leatherique as well as other exotic marques
in our local club. The owners have abandoned LEXOL use in their automobiles.
LEXOL products cannot compare to the products above, however many have used
the LEXOL brand perviously.
The difference is how the dye in leather or color is applied to the cars
leather surfaces. It is either sprayed on or a soaked in dye. The grade of
Bridge of Weir leather in a NEW DeLorean is a 5-6 on the 10 scale. The dye is
spayed on, as in the case of many European leathers, however many Asian
Leather companies are using this method.
I recommended Leatherique to Michael Babb about 3-4 years ago when he was
in Colorado. Mike can you comment about leatherique?
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 04:17:24 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AC-panellight conversion (was URL request)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Having a jumper instead of a relay
> also allowed me to hook up a lightreminder-buzzer,
> so I don't forget to switch them off when I turn off the ignition...
<SNIP>
While the lights/ignition buzzer isn't really my style, I would love
to see a mod with a relay & switch so that I couln't start the car
unless the clutch pedal was pushed in. Any takers?
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 05:07:43 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Driving at night - WAS:SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
Where did you pull this figure from Bob? I drive my DeLorean all the
time at night (except when MN has snow which we almost dont right
now). I personally dont see night-day as a direct cause for driving
or not driving a DeLorean. If instrument lighting is an issue for
anybody, dont fret! A backlit cluster is one its way! (plus possibly
a few other goodies to go along with it.)
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I think they are a great idea. However, very few of us drive our D
at night.
>
> Bob
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 04:54:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
Actaully, my car is a "Nightly Driver". It ends up resulting from my
odd working hours and sleeping habits. In all honestly, my D see's
more moonlight than it does daylight.
I too though about the capsule bulb conversion. It is tempting, but
the wiring is what concerns me. Rather than a conversion, start
simple with a set of brighter and/or bluer bulbs to highlight signs
and obsticals better at night. You may be surprised by what a new set
of bulbs by themselves can do. Try that before you go into an
involved conversion.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I think they are a great idea. However, very few of us drive our D
at night.
>
> Bob
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:01:37 -0800
From: "Joshua Shain" <JoshyBallgame@xxxxxxx>
Subject: White Smoke
I have noticed small amounts of white smoke emerging from the engine
compartment of my DeLorean on occassion. It doesn't do it all the time, and
I cannot figure out what the catalyst might be, but obviously it's rather
nerveracking. There is often a minor burning scent after driving it, but
I've noticed the smell on many other cars after they have been driven (not
just DeLoreans). Other than that, she runs fine.
She's a 1983 Five-Speed. Any thoughts?
-Joshua
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:37:36 -0800
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
Subject: It happened one night. . .
The other night, around 3am, I awoke to see an eerie bright light creeping through the window and across the bedroom walls at a weird angle I’d never
seen before. It couldn’t have been headlights, because our street doesn’t run that direction!
I started to worry, because I had parked my DeLorean in the front driveway that evening, and for once, did not cover it. ( I know, shame on me.)
Was there a prowler outside? Maybe someone trying to steal the car? Then I heard an engine idling and when I looked out, I discovered the source.
It was a cop in his patrol car using his search light to get a good loooong look at my ‘D’!
Oliver Holler (novice new owner)
Vin#10694
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:32:40 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: gear change
Paul,
I had a similar problem in which my linkage had "drifted" such that I
couldn't get it into 5th gear. My interpretation is there are basically 2
options.
When you look under the car, the end of the cross gate cable (part # 101363)
connects to cross gate lever (part # 106652) on the transmission (this is a
little forward of the rear wheels under the center of the car). You can
adjust the length of the cable by screwing in/out the end of this cable
(sorry I forget what direction the shifter moves when lengthening/shortening
the cable but believe that it is mentioned in the shop manual). I suggest
(if you use this method) you move it no more than half a turn before you
check the alignment (make sure it is secure because you don't want the end
of the cable just hanging on by a couple threads).
The second option (and probably best) is to change the cable position by
adjusting it at the cross gate mounting bracket (part # 106653). This has
the same effect as changing the cable length since the cable moves relative
to the shifter assemble. This involves loosening the nuts on either side of
the bracket and sliding the cable in the appropriate direction to meet your
alignment needs. This bracket is just slightly forward of the transmission
under the center of the car.
The process is very simple and when I did it on my car it took more time to
get the car off the ground than to adjust the cable.
Finally, and at the risk of being redundant, the process of shifting into
reverse involves moving the shift lever to the far left, lifting the lever
up (about 1/4 inch), and then moving the shifting lever a little farther to
the left before putting it into gear. The process of lifting the lever
should be very easy (no more than a couple pounds effort) to accomplish.
Experience on my vehicle was that the lever wouldn't lift. I removed the
gear lever gaiter (aka the leather cover/boot Part # 100688) and examined
the selector assembly to see how it worked (thanks for the advice DMC Joe).
You can see a pin on the shift lever move through a gate and will notice
that there is a step up on the left hand side. This is why you have to lift
the shifter to be able to move it to the reverse gate. My shifter had
rusted such that it could not move up. So with a little penetrating oil and
some convincers (i.e. a hammer and a big pair of pliers), I broke it loose
and it now works fine. In fact it is amazing how easy it lifts now.
All that said, I imagine your gate alignment is more critical than mine due
to its design. As such the alignment process will be a little more tedious.
Just remember, small movements, be careful, and make sure your care is
well supported while you work under it.
Let me know if this helps (would be a boost to my ego to know I actually
answered a question vs. asked).
Ed
10541
>From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] gear change
>Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:15:27 -0000
>
>I have just replaced the Shifter boot on my 5 speed. The new one has the
>metal frame around the bottom as opposed to the plastic one.
>
>The problem I now have is I have difficulty getting it into reverse, as I
>can't get the gear stick over to the left enough with out pulling Sharpe
>into the side of the plate the boot sits in.
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Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:33:42 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A Bit Off Topic
***** Moderator's Note *****
Jack, you are very brave...
Please respond directly to Jack.
*****
I am going out on a limb here by being a bit off topic, but I am in need of
some help. My wife and I are expecting our first child in May of this year
and we are searching for a name... a middle name to be exact.
We have chosen Isabelle as a first name and of course Stiefel (pronounced
Stee-Fel) as the last name, but are stumped on the middle.
We are asking all our friends to give us a hand. This group of friends
being the largest, most varied, cross cultural, and cross country I know, I
now ask for your help.
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
1981 DeLorean Vin 03461 http://www.sacketmansion.com/delorean
1988 Jaguar XJ-SC V-12 http://www.sacketmansion.com/jaguar
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
2001 PT Cruiser
2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4
Visit our home page at:http://www.sacketmansion.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:56:04 -0600
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
i guess im an oddball. i drive my D mostly at night. and on Sat nights fron
9:00pm to 4am.
skipper landry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brandys" <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
>
>
> I think they are a great idea. However, very few of us drive our D at
night.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:26:29 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: White Smoke
Joshua,
Can't see how this would be your problem but had a friend with a similar
issue (on an Ameriacn truck) one time. Turned out to be brake fluid but I
don't recall the specifics of how/where it was being burned.
Ed
10541
>From: "Joshua Shain" <JoshyBallgame@xxxxxxx>
>
>
>I have noticed small amounts of white smoke emerging from the engine
>compartment of my DeLorean on occassion. It doesn't do it all the time,
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:06:04 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Auto tranny governor
Duke and one of his Electronic buddies made a wiring harness so the computer
gov. could be remote mounted in the cabin. I do not much more than that.
Duke, If you are lurking about in the shadows, how about filling in the list
on your modified gov.
Scott Mueller
002981
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:30 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Auto tranny governor
> Someone on this message list, a while back, posted that pjgrady
> was offering an improved version of the autotranny governor, but I just
> called them and they said they never offered such a thing.
That was me who posted that. When I bought mine, Rob offered me two
versions of the computer governor. One cost a few dollars more (I think it
was around 3 or 4 dollars more, but compared to the total cost of around
$400, it was nickels & dimes.) I shouldn't say that one version was better
than the other version. I'm not really sure now what the differences were.
They might have been made by different companies or had slightly different
styles. That happened more than a year ago, so maybe PJ Grady only has one
version now.
I am curious to know what is different inside the new computers -- if it is
a different design completely or just the original circuit board with better
capacitors. I didn't want to open mine to find out. If you repair your
original computer then you will know what you have. The obvious is to
replace the two capacitors and add some shunting diodes. But there are
other things that can go wrong, too such as a switch inside that can get
dirty contacts. If you don't feel up to the job, I know there are people on
the DML who would do it for you. Or just get one from a vendor like I did.
Walt Tampa, FL
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