To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 6 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Fuel Distributor Conversion From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Revsese WAS: Why the DeLorean? From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx> 4. The best thing I got for Christmas From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 5. Door Lock Module - some technical musings... From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Re: Hot Fuse From: AJL521@xxxxxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 16:42:25 -0000 From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit To work on the fuel system you really need some reference materiel. On of the best sources for information on the Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection system as it is used in the Delorean is the Delorean Workshop Manual section "D". The procedure for adjusting the air fuel ratio is in D:04:01-:15. You need some EXPENSIVE special tools to do this right. It is best if you can find a shop that will either let you use their equipment or will do this as per the book. My guess is that the adjustment is way off causing the problem. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Senatorpack@xxxx wrote: > > > Hello DML, > > I'm helping out a new owner tune up his car and replace the fuel > injection system. We have reset the car back to factory settings. However we > have encountered a small adjustment issue. > > Installed new fuel distributor and control pressure regulator, etc., etc., > on new owners car. What is proper way to adjust air/fuel ratio? > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 17:55:10 -0000 From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Fuel Distributor Conversion Hello, About a week ago i was able to change my faulty dmc fuel distributor over to an porshe 911 setup. After the initial setup and adjusting the DeLorean runs like brand new. The unit i installed on it was out of a Porshe 911 racing car, that had a 3.0 engine (insteald of the 2.9) and has no cold start port on it. The cold start port wasn't really a problem since you could double banjo it on the warm up regulator. All in all i found found a nice little setup that requires no modification at all to install, and is easier to find then the stock unit. I also have some other porshe distributor that have no frequency valve port on them. If anyone in the jersey/ny/pennsylvania area are instrested in switiching over to a more mechanical system let me know. I will be uploading picture of it later on in the day. If yo uhave any questions let me know. - Shain #10140 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:32:02 -0000 From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx> Subject: Revsese WAS: Why the DeLorean? Not to be picky Les, but it should not be stiff shifting into reverse. When cold, my car will go into reverse with the greatest of ease. When warm, it will grind unless I put it into first gear first, to stop the input shaft from spinning. But even when I do that it still goes into reverse without resistance. I suspect I just need a tranny fluid change (I know its not clutch or linkage related). For you les, I would suggest bleeding your clutch line, adjusting the linkage, or changing your transmission fluid. (all the standard stuff) Take care now!! Jim Reeve MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club DMC-6960 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote: >the shifting (at > least in the case of reverse) is stiff ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:20:50 -0800 (PST) From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: The best thing I got for Christmas Although I did get 2 SunStar models, a sexy stainless throttle shield, and super sexy PJ Grady complete door sill outlines, the best thing I got for Christmas was a new dome light. For as long as I've had my DeLorean, the front dome light has been yellow, cracked, and hanging slightly out of the headliner (some double stick tape wasn't really doing the job). Houston's new glass lights are incredible. They've done away with the plastic clips and now have 2 metal studs. At first I didn't think that it would stay in - I thought a part was missing. I wired it in and pushed it up into the headliner. *Snap* Done. After putting it in, the only word that came to mind was "quality". No one is going to remark, "Wow, that sure is a slick dome light", but I couldn't be happier with the pure QUALITY of it all. Houston, you've fixed a problem. -Christian #3452 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 22:35:47 +0000 From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Door Lock Module - some technical musings... Hi All, I've spent some of my quiet time this Christmas looking at the DeLorean door lock module. Having spent time previously examining Dave Swingle's pain-stakingly documented layout diagram and circuit diagram on the DMCnews tech page, I've discovered some things and re-engineered two modules already for reliability and longevity (for at least the next 20 years :-) This was prompted by Paul Salsbury complaining that his didn't work at all, and sending it to me to fix. Firstly, referring to the circuit diagram here http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/graphics/lockcircR1.jpg some errors: 1) Transistors Q1 and Q11 are in fact BFR39 and NOT BRF39 as stated. BFR39's are pretty common and still available. I got ten on sample from www.diamondelec.co.uk 2) R1 and R11 are in fact in series between D2 and the emitter of Q1 (and likewise between D12 and the emitter of Q11). C1 and C11 connect directly between ground and Q1 and Q11's emitters respectively. What do we know about the module and it's problems? 1) The relays can stick shut energising the solenoid until it burns out or the curcuit breaker trips (if present) or the battery flattenns. 2) Referring to Nathan's notes on the module, the transistors are vulnerable to spikey voltages resulting from intermittent earthing during the lock or unlock cycle. He also notes that he'd put a diode in series between point A and output pin 2. 1: The original relays are open to the air and have a pathetically small contactor. This is a recipie for sparking casing gumming up of the contacts. Regular cleaning with a switch lubricant like servisol10 is likely to prevent the contacts sticking, though it's an underrated device. (A small fact which may be of interested to some is that the explosion aboard Apollo13 was traced back to the use of an underrated relay getting stuck closed - you have to read the book to get the detail!). I found a nice 10A miniature relay made by Siemens available from Maplin for £1.49. It's almost the exact same size as the stock relays. 2: When I tested Paul's module, I discovered that one "side" of the circuit was functioning correctly, but the other was failing to charge its capacitor (the one that energises the relay). The likely culprit was the transistor Q1 so I replaced it (I also replaced the two capacitors on principle. On re-trying the module, I found no change. This was a puzzle because there's not a helluva lot else on the board that can go wrong! Remember this board is actually two identical circuits in parallel - one performs the "lock" function, the other the "un-lock" function. Paul's would unlock but not lock. It was after a lot of head-scratching that I noticed something strange... D5 has no "partner" on the "lock" side of the circuit. Even stranger, my own working module had D5 mounted by hand to the underside of the board, with the track cut. Pauls was evidently a later board with a position for D5. NEITHER board had a place for the same diode on the lock circuit. The lock relay on Paul's board was sparking badly when manually closed it, so I concluded that Q1 was being blown due to a spike on the base. I cut the track from pin 2 to point A and added in a diode (marked "D" on the diagram). I also added the protection diodes from point A and B to the 12v supply. Hey presto the module works fine, with a lovely blue flash ever time the lock relay is triggered. So I removed the stock relays and replaced them with the Siemens ones. It required some creative additional wiring, but you can use the holes for the original relays to feed to the underside of the board. It's very easy to solder direct to the tracks on the underside as it was never coated. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:49:05 EST From: AJL521@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Hot Fuse To the best of my knowlage this is common on DeLoreans, in fact it also happened on mine, the solution that I found was to install an inline fuse holder, in place of the melted slot. My problem also occured on the dip beam circut. Best wishes for a happy new year Andrew 4194 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>