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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Misc PRV Question.
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. brake master rebuild?
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Original tires!
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Misc PRV Question.
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
5. SunStar diecast!!!
From: illyana delorean <illyana@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Misc PRV Question.
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
7. Re: brake master rebuild?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
8. radio upgrade
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Fascia paint cracked
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
10. Misc PRV Questions Continued.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. Why DeLorean?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
12. Re: brake master rebuild?
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
13. Re: brake master rebuild?
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Hot Fuse
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 11:48:22 -0500
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Misc PRV Question.
hello
there are three very different block and cyl.sizes.the cyl match each
block/and cant be interchanged.you want a fast car buy a vette.
bob miller
-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] Misc PRV Question.
3. Are the 3.0 litre pistons, sleeves, and heads compatable with
the B28F block? Are modifications nessisary?
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 12:52:29 +0100
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: brake master rebuild?
I will most likely have to rebuild atleast my master brake cylinder, but I am curious as to if anyone sells a kit to do this, I didn't see it with dmc houston or pjgrady.
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 18:47:54 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Original tires!
I have original tires on my show car as well, but expect to remove
them even though they are in good shape. As far as concours
competition is concerned, I feel that the issue of original tires
might be overstated. My recollection is that there are only 2 points
awarded for the tires. 1 point is deducted if the tires show wear,
while 1 point is deducted for non-original tires (it's been a while
since I looked at the rules last, so I may be wrong here). If the
scoring is done this way, then good condition Yokahamas will earn 1
point while NCT's showing signs of aging or wear will also earn 1
point. My preference would be for the good condition Yokahamas since
I think they ride better and might be considered somewhat safer (I
drive my show car on occasion in order to keep everything
mechanically sound).
You don't have to score 200 to win concours competitions, you only
have to score higher than everyone else.
Knut
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 14:11:54 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Misc PRV Question.
>1. Is there a mechanical distributor that can be used on the 3.0
>litre PRV for even firing?
You'd have to change the crank and cams too, but it sounds like thats what you're thinking anyway. I'm sure you could find one if you looked hard enough, but a better choice might be to just abandon the distributor all together.
>2. Is there anything unique about the Ignition ECU on the
>DeLorean that makes it unusable for modifications? i.e. same
>fire order, higher output, CIS vs. Carburetion.
If you're going to upgrade the ignition and ECU, you might consider going with an Ignition and EFI ECU triggered off of a crank mounted hall effect sensor. Abandon the CIS, distributor and the OEM ignition ECU. Replace it all with something like the SDS EM3E system with both programable EFI and Spark control.
Jim vin6147
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 01:31:41 -0700
From: illyana delorean <illyana@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: SunStar diecast!!!
hey everyone! happy belated christmas and i just wanted to say that
the best present i got this year (that wasn't money) was a SunStar
DeLorean!! yay! i was sooo surprised, especially since my father got
it for me and i didn't even ask for it. anyway, i now know the joy
you all feel.
one down, two to go...
illyana
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 20:14:23 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Misc PRV Question.
In a message dated Wed, 26 Dec 2001 7:03:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, jwit6@xxxxxx writes:
> >1. Is there a mechanical distributor that can be used on the 3.0 litre PRV for even firing?
>
> You'd have to change the crank and cams too, but it sounds like thats what you're thinking anyway.
> Jim vin6147
Jim,
Not necessarily. John Lane with Pacific Rim Automotive has a kit which converts the odd fire Delorean distributor to an even fire unit, so it can be used with the stock PRV 3.0 even fire crank setup.
Marty
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 22:20:06 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: brake master rebuild?
Easiest thing you can do is buy a rebuilt from Autozone. Bolts right up and
there were no problems with the resevoir leaking. Fenco M52329, $71.00 with
exchange. As I recall it's out of a Saab 900.
Jim vin 6147
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 21:37:05 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: radio upgrade
I'm thinking of replacing the Craig. For radio upgrades all I really need to
do is pick up a new DIN bracket from Houston and wiring harness, right? The
harness I could probably make since "Mr Buffalochips" is out of them at the present.
Any other gotchas? speakers would come later, more than likely.
Any cheaper brackets? or old ones for sale that I can cut? (wanting to save
my original one just in case)
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 22:47:09 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fascia paint cracked
Ok, with the help of a friend more mechanically inclined than myself
I was able to finally get my headlight out (I guess it is not as hard
as I thought, cause he was able to take it off in about 5 minutes.
By the way I wish the descriptions I got on the list of where the
holding screws are would have been a bit more accurate. I was looking
for screws "below" the light when the bottom ones are actually
more off to the *corners* of the bottom, but still below all the other
screws. Just an thought for future reference.)
My problem is that with flexing the fascia in too nasty a way on
occasion, it looks like we cracked the paint (hopefully not the
fascia itself) in the inside lower corner, not to mention all the
scratches on the inside upper lip of the poor fascia with all the
screwdriver action I was perpetrating on it. Is there something I
can treat that crack with outside of doing a paint job before I put a new
headlight back in? It hasn't flaked off yet but I'm afraid it
may start in the future and I want to prevent it from destroying my
fascia. Any advice?
Thanks in advance,
Richard
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 08:49:08 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Misc PRV Questions Continued.
Thanks for the replies so far, but I do now have a couple more
questions:
1. Does anyone have a picture of the catalytic converters from the
Island Twin Turbo kit? Looking to get an idea of the sizes.
2. Can an EFI system run dual MAP sensors, or do they require a
single only?
3. Is the lower, cross-flow portion of the intake manifold
reversable?
4. With no mechanical distributor on a DIS EFI system, where
does the vaccum for the Vapor Canister & rotary climate controls
originate from?
5. Does anyone have "striped-down" photos of the air inlet
system on the Eagle Premier?
6. Does a turbo charger need to be mounted horizontaly? Can it
be relocated to a verticle, or angled position?
So far I've found that if a mechanical distributor for the even-firing
3.0 litre engine could be found, and the intake manifold could
bolt up, then a 3.0 K-Jetronic engine could be installed with
minimal hastle. On the flip side, I am a bit leary of the Renix
electronics from the Premier because of reports I've seen online.
Of course if I made judgements based upon what I heard from
others, I certainly wouldn't have a DeLorean :) That and I don't
know of the electronics for that car are modify-able from their
current application for increased performance.
On the turbo side of things, I don't know. If I keep the CIS system,
then the plumbing would be the same as VIN 502. If not, the then
I have a couple of unorthodox ideas. Depending upon the single
or dual MAP sensors. And with the one of the designs I have, the
alternator shouldn't need to be relocated. And to clean things up,
I'd like to fabricate a plastic canopy for the engine to give it a
more modernized look.
Still though, the exhaust is a concern. I've got a couple of ideas
based off of the existing system for both a turbo, and aspirated
version. The only differance should be a 90 degree pipe.
Thanks again!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:44:00 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Why DeLorean?
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> ...you want a fast car buy a vette.
>
> bob miller
You know what, I actaully thought about buying a muscle car. I
even went down to look at a few new, restored, and potential
canidates for restoration. NOTHING compares to a DeLorean!
Yes, all were faster, had bigger engines, a bigger network of
aftermarket parts, more options available for customization. But
none of them were my car. When I slip into my DeLorean, I get
into MY car. I don't need to adjust the seat, I don't have to squirm
around to get comfortable, my arms & legs never get tired from
one position. I just get in. None of the other cars I've ever been in
felt the same way. And certainly none have the same personality.
I love the feeling of a warm, cozy interior, and the cold, sharp
exterior. The DeLorean commands attention in a way that no
other car can. While many of you may not know it, the DeLorean
is the only car that I've ever been in that I can simply lean over
and see the stars thru the side glass at night.
I once had a guy ask me why I bought a DeLorean when I could
have afforded a more powerful, or "prestiegous" car. An example
being his BMW. As I simply told him, "When was the last time
you heard someone say, 'Hey look, there goes a BMW!'". So yes,
ego wise, I am a perfect match for my car in that area too!
This and the fact that my driving a DeLorean defies what the car
'experts' say. It's an easy to maintain vehicle, it's operator/
mechanic friendly, has a low maintenance, yet beautiful exteritor,
sits low to the ground, yet doesn't hit bumps, and has absurdly
easy ingree & egrees. Most of all, I'm not wasting my time and
money on a car loan. I don't have to compromise between
owning a sensable car, and owning my dream car. They're one
in the same.
Why am I looking into a more poertful engine? Well, why not? I'm
not chopping anything, and technicly, the conversion is completly
reversable. Not that 1. I or anyone else see the need for the
reversal, 2. Is anyone is really going to care. I've never heard
someone talk of their DeLorean, and mention braging rights that
their 'numbers match'. We have many fine examples of
concourse DeLoreans, and I give many thanks to those who
keep these cars in showroom condition. It is important to know
how they once were. But I'm looking into a modification of the
engine in line with the car's heratage, and with no modifications
to the car itself other than drivetrain. Mine is a working car. She's
a daily driver, and will probably never be parked ever again.
Besides that, I perfer the challenge of an upgrade. In a geek
sense, increasing the output of the engine is kinda like over
clocking a CPU. Yeah yu could get a new PC, but where's the fun
in that? Besides, the upgraded engine is both a benefit to both
the car and myself. Higher performance to match the looks. And
if that doesn't answer the question, then to be honest, because I
want it! If we stuck with the idea that only hight end cars should
have higher performance engines, then we wouldn't be here
right now. It was this idea about dropping larger engines into
cars than they >should< have that gave birth to the Pontiac GTO.
As far as a Corvette is concerned, I wouldn't waste my time with
one. Uncomfortable ride, ugly design, and has a marque that I
wouldn't want to be associated with. DeLorean owners have a
tendancy to be helpful to one another, and are generally good
people. I've yet to meet a Corvette owner who didn't have a tall
tale about their car to tell. That and they are generally very rude. If
I were to ket a turn key sports car with alot of available power, I'd
rather spend the same amount of cash to import an Alpine A610.
But no, I'm a DeLorean owner, and always will be. It's not just a
car, it's the car drivers' dream. And I'm living it!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 06:29:01 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: brake master rebuild?
In a message dated 12/26/01 7:00:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
putsch.1@xxxxxxx writes:
>
You'd be wise to do your slave cylinder while you're at it. It's a common
occurance that as soon as you do one, the other fails. And if you don't have
the S.S. braided clutch line, it'll save time and $ to do all three at once,
since they're all connected, and all would entail the time and expense of
bleeding the system. Contrary to the Workshop Manual, you do NOT need to
separate the body from the frame to install the new clutch line. BTW, I
didn't rebuild my 19 year old units... I replaced both. Just as a
preventative. They weren't giving me any problems yet, but the old ones
looked really nasty.
Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 08:06:08 -0500
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake master rebuild?
The master cylinder is the same as SAAB 900. The kit should run about
$40-$75 depending where you get it.
Andrei Cular
Engineering
Marine Concepts
Phone: 941-283-0800 Fax:941-283-3332
www.marineconcepts.com
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 16:06:12 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hot Fuse
Hi all
Quick Question
Why is my dip beam fuse getting really hot? to the point the fuse looks like it wants to melt. The fuse is not popping just getting really hot. I don't want a fire but do want dip beams
Any suggestions??
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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