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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. DeLorean vs. 2001 NSX
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: trailing arm bolts
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
3. Re: If it's not broke, don't break it...
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
4. Re: Sunstar model questions & remarks
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Bah, heck, darn it. Angle drive issues.
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. All Fuel lines are NOT created equal
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Re: If it's not broke, don't break it...
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: Re: Fuel Injector Question
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
11. RE: front lower control arms
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Euro spec and performance exhaust
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
13. new air cond. compressor for sale
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: If it's not broke, don't break it...
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. Re: TA Bolts...an end?
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Trailing Arm Bolt Program
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Sunstar model questions & remarks
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Re: Fuel Injector Question
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
19. Re: TA Bolt questions
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
20. Re: New Web-page! Sunstar model door fixes and more!
From: "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon@xxxxxxxxxx>
21. seeking a car
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Toby
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. DMC Houston HiPo engine
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
24. RE: DMC Houston HiPo engine
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
25. Re: Euro spec and performance exhaust
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 00:37:44 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean vs. 2001 NSX
Before I bought my DeLorean I was seriously looking at buying an
Acura NSX. I know that they are VASTLY different cars, but there are
some interesting similarities. Being bored on a sunday, I put
together this spreadsheet. The DeLorean specs should prove quite
useful to have in one location. If anyone can fill any of the blanks
in or add any information, e-mail me what you can and I'll put it all
together and make it available for everyone.
Open the following up as comma delimited in Excel:
,2001 Acura NSX,1982 DeLorean DMC-12
BRAKES,,
Type,Pwr,Pwr
ABS System,4-Wheel,n/a
Disc,Yes,Yes
Rear disc brake (Yes/No),Yes,Yes
Rotor Diam x Thickness (in),11.7 x 1.10,
Rear disc brake rotor diameter x thickness (in),11.9 x 0.91,
"Capacity, Approx (gal)",18.5,13.2
CARGO AREA DIMENSION,,
Trunk Volume (cu ft),5,13
COOLING SYSTEM,,
Total System Capacity (qts),17.4,11.62 (2.9 gal)
ELECTRICAL,,
Cold Cranking Amps @ 0ø F,- TBD -,
Maximum Capacity (amps),120,
ENGINE,,
Type,Gas V6,Gas V6
Displacement,3.0L/181,2.849L/174
Fuel System,PGM-FI,Bosch K-Jetronic CIS
Bore & Stroke,,91x73 mm
Compression,,8.8:1
SAE Net Horsepower,252 @ 6600,130 @ 5500
SAE Net Torque (lb ft),210 @ 5300,153 @ 2750
Max Speed,,130 (some claim >140mph)
Spark Plugs,,Bosch HR6DS (Platinum tipped)
Spark Plug Gap,,.6-.7 mm (.024-.028in)
Spark Plug Torque,,17.20Nm (13-15 ft lbs)
Oil Capacity,,6.8 qts
EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS,,
Wheelbase (in),99.6,95
"Length, Overall (in)",174.2,166
"Width, Max w/o mirrors (in)",71.3,73.1
"Width, Max w/o mirrors (in) <with doors opening>",,84.1
"Height, Overall (in)",46.1,44.88
"Height, Overall (in) <door open>",,77.2
"Tread Width (in), Front",59.4,62.6
"Tread Width (in), Rear",60.2,62.5
Min Ground Clearance (in),4.6,5.6
Min Ground Clearance (in) rear,,6.1
Liftover Height (in),- TBD -,
Drag Coefficient (cd),0.32,0.33
INTERIOR DIMENSION,,
Head Room (in),36.3,
Leg Room (in),44.3,
Shoulder Room (in),52.5,
Hip Room (in),53.8,
MILEAGE,,
EPA Fuel Economy Est (MPG),18 (Est),18 ???
Hwy EPA Fuel Economy Estimate (MPG),24 (Est),
SUSPENSION,,
Front suspension type line 1,Double-Wishbone,Unequal length wishbones
Rear suspension type line 1,Double-Wishbone,Trailing radius arms
w/uper and lower links
Front suspension type line 2,w/Coil Springs,w/coil springs and anti-
roll bar
Rear suspension type line 2,w/Coil Springs,w/coil springs
Shock Absorber Diameter (mm),- TBD -,
Rear shock absorber diameter (mm),- TBD -,
Stabilizer Bar Diameter (in),0.72,
Rear stabilizer bar diameter (in),0.69,
Front Toe,,3mm (.12 in) per wheel
Front Caster,,3.5 to 4 deg
Front Camber,,-1.4 to 0 deg (non adj)
King Pin Inclination,,8 + (0 to .5 deg) deg (non adj)
Rear Toe,,3mm (.12 in) per wheel
Rear Camber,,-.75 to -.25 deg (non-adj)
TIRES,,
Front Size,P215/45ZR16,
Front Pressure,,23 - 29
Rear tire size,P245/40ZR17,
Spare tire size,- TBD -,
Size (in),"16"" x 7""",
Spare pressure (lbs),,60
Spare wheel size (in),- TBD -,
Rear wheel size (in),"17"" x 8.5""",
Rear Pressure,,30 - 34
Ramp angle front (deg),,22
Ramp angle rear (deg),,27
Approach Angle (deg),,14
TRAILERING,,
Dead Weight Hitch (lb),N/A,
Dead Weight Hitch-Max. Tongue Load,N/A,
Wt Distributing Hitch (lb),N/A,38%/62% (f/r)
Wt. Distributing Hitch-Max. Tongue Load,N/A,
TRANSMISSION,,
Type,4,
Transmission Type Description Line 1,"Automatic w/OD,",
Transmission Type Description Line 2,Electronic,
"Gear Ratio (:1), First",2.611,3.364 (man) / 2.4 (auto)
Second,1.552,2.059 / 1.48
Third,1.026,1.381 / 1.00
Fourth,0.684,1.057
Reverse,1.909,3.1818 / 1.92
Clutch Size (in),-TBD-,
Final Drive Axle Ratio (:1),4.428,3.44
Manual Transmission Capacity,,3.7 litres
WEIGHT INFORMATION,,
Base Curb Weight (lb),3110,2712
Weight/HP (lbs/hp),12.34,20.86
WHEELS,,
Type,Aluminum,
Rear wheel type,Aluminum,
Spare wheel type,- TBD -,
Type,Variable Pwr,rack & pinion. No pwr
"Ratio (:1), Overall",18.6,
Lock to Lock Turns,3.07,2.4
Curb to Curb,38.1,42
Wall to Wall,- TBD -,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 20:23:03 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: trailing arm bolts
In a message dated 11/17/01 12:50:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> For the record the bolts in my 300HP car are frozen in place. Luckily they
>
My D just rolled over the 16,000 mile mark, but when I replaced the TA bolts
"just in case" last spring, I found one frozen in place, the other very badly
bent. I drive it daily, and I'm not timid, but I don't drive it off-road,
either! ;)
Wayne
11174
DMCTech
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 20:31:23 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: If it's not broke, don't break it...
Have you checked the spark advance vacuum solenoid, throttle position switch
and thermo switch. The throttle switch in conjunction with the thermo switch
provides current to the vacuum solenoid to increase advance when the engine
is warmed up and off idle. Put a timing light on it and confirm you have
advance.
Jim
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 19:42:03 -0600
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sunstar model questions & remarks
> The engine is missing the throttle-spool shield recall [SNIP]
> The header bottle has been upgraded
Good catches, Walt! Also not stock is the coolant auto-bleed hose (a la DMC
Joe's "Overheat Protector" kit). The dash is interesting, too. It appears
to have some stuck gauges, and all the warning lights are lit up.
Don't get me wrong, the model is really great and the "problems" are minor.
I've got the same passenger door issue that many others have, plus my gas
pedal is bent over the top of the other pedals. But that stuff's minor
considering how cool it is to finally have a little "Mini Me" of my
DeLorean!
Anybody want to make me a teeny tiny VIN plate with 6681 on it? :-)
___________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 21:10:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Bah, heck, darn it. Angle drive issues.
On Sat, 17 Nov 2001, Jan van de Wouw wrote:
> > So, I've got a nice swanky new angle drive all ready
> > for installation.
> [snip]
> > Sure enough, it's not turning. Well. It *is*.
> > It's also turning whatever it is it screws onto,
>
> The angle drive (AD) is NOT screwed into the nut;
> it is held in place by a circular spring inside the nut.
> In order to remove the drive from the nut the nut has
> to be removed from the hub/axle.
*nod* It's getting the nut removed from the axle that's the issue. The
only way I can see to do this is to remove the rotor and free up some more
of the spindle so I can immobilize it. Only way to do this that's come to
mind (with help) so far is the use of a large pair of vise grips in
conjunction with a breaker bar wedged on the ground. This idea lacks
appeal, as I don't relish the thought of the vise grips digging their
hungry teeth into my fairly virginal spindle. If there are other
suggestions, I'm open to them. :)
Noah "out of liquid wrench *again*" Robin
#2867
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 02:21:23 -0000
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: All Fuel lines are NOT created equal
All high pressure fuel lines are NOT created equal. I have been
battling a very unusual "part-throttle bucking problem". I have
troubleshot and fixed many problems - all which were real problems on
this car. But I have never been able to solve this
underlying "bucking" problem.
Yesterday I removed my fuel injectors to make sure their spray
pattern was fine, and their output equal. Both were OK, however I
noticed this dripping problem on all injectors, and a slight delay on
their engagement.
When I bought this car, one very noticable item was the brand new,
high-pressure silicone (bright blue) fuel lines on all of the fuel
distributor connections. The hoses are clearly embossed "250 PSI,
high pressure fuel". I guess the guy before me felt it necessary to
replace the lines, perhaps he had a problem. I never gave them a
second thought, feeling very comfortable that the car had brand new
high pressure fuel lines.
Well, I found out - BY ACCIDENT - these lines are very flexible. So
flexible that you can squeeze one and actually make the fuel injector
discharge a spray. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING.
Anybody versed in hydraulics will tell you that soft, flexible lines
will actually "dampen" that pressure "snap" that is essential to make
these all mechanical fuel injectors work properly. So what happens...
You press the accelerator, air flows in, the air sensor plate moves
down, the piston opens the fuel distributor, fuel rushes out to the
injector...and the injector sprays...but only after it has slightly
expanded the flexible fuel line and built up pressure to open the
injector. The opposite happens when you let up from the accellerator.
Your fuel lines can become a "Baffle" eliminating the
hydraulic "snap" that is so important to the injectors.
The moral of the story - Don't use anything but the original semi-
rigid polyethylene lines (or whatever was factory). I have been
battling this problem for months now. Who would have guessed it was
this???
I hope sharing this story either helps someone fix, or prevents
someone from making the mistake the owner before me had made.
Eric
Vin# 5557
Dunedin, FL
ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 22:47:34 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
Ralf, No, I don't recommend a SS 316 bolt . It is to soft for the
application. Even though it's good metal for corrosion, it doesn't have the
strength.
John Hervey
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 23:03:23 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
Ralf, I failed to respond to the rest of your message. Again, I'm only
repeating what I was told. I'm no bolt or metal expert like Toby. The 12.9
from what I'm told and have been able to find is the best commercial bolt.
You can buy them or have them ordered from hardware suppliers. Normally they
come unplated, then you can have any kind of plating put on them you want.
With out getting into a special bolt like Toby is doing, other De lorean
vendors are apparently using the 12.9 unplated, because the turbo car of mine
was serviced by a De Lorean dealer. I'm not knocking what he is doing, only
pointing out what I was told and have been told be also other bolt experts.
Apparenty you haven't read all my post.
I'll say it again, Toby keep up the good work. When you get thru with the
trailing arm bolt, there are some others that need some attention.
John hervey
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 04:34:09 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: If it's not broke, don't break it...
Go over all of the work that was just done. Somewhere along the line
you did something. Either you mixed up a plug, a wire, a hose, or
maybe you have a defective ignition wire or spark plug. Another
possibility is that you knocked a hose or wire loose in the area
between the engine and the firewall. It is very tight in there and
easy to do without noticing. Go over every plug and vacuum
hose.(Including the one that goes down to the auto trans!) Be very
slow, careful and meticulous and you will find it. You may have to go
over the firing order if you mixed up the ignition wires. (Make sure
they are snugly snapped on. You didn't stretch any did you? Ignition
wires don't take kindly to being stretched! You break the carbon
inside.) If you dropped a spark plug it could be cracked and sparking
inside. A dropped plug is supposed to be tested or thrown away!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, pbmain@xxxx wrote:
> Anyone have any suggestions?
>
> I mentioned last week that I was having the high speed accelleration
> issues - didn't sound like a transmission issue, but more of a fuel
> delivery issue, possibly. Anyhow, even though it was still running
> ok, I decided to use the last couple days before the big "winter"
> sets in and do a tuneup since I picked up this car a few weeks ago
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 23:41:20 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Injector Question
Eric, The injectors may have one last drop after the control plunger seats.
If they keep on leaking, Then the control plunger may be to high in the rest
position. It's doubtfull all the injectors would be bad, but anything is
possible.
John
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 20:51:25 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: front lower control arms
John H. said:
> While were talking about metal stress, Have you looked at your front lower
> control arms for cracking and stress. You can also have a fatial situation
> on your hands when the front lower control arms breaks. You better check
> them.
Not sure what a "fatial situation" is John, but I don't need to check my
control arms. One of the many improvements I made to my car was to
completely reinforce and box plate both the lower and upper arms, another
old street rodding trick. Cost - less than $20.
Say, you wouldn't be trying to sell me some of your expensive replacement
arms, would you John? Maybe you should stick to something you know, and not
be giving me performance/safety tips.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
THE ORIGINAL Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 00:03:43 +0100
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Euro spec and performance exhaust
Do any of you know if the euro spec Delorean's exhaust was the same as the US spec only minus the cat? Does anyone in the US sell any performance exhaust upgrades and if someone does what exactly is it you get? I'd realy like to do something with my exhaust system to let the motor breath better and for a little sound.
Casey at Putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 00:16:23 +0100
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: new air cond. compressor for sale
I have an absolutly new and unused air conditioning compressor for a Delorean for sale. It is brand spanking new with zero shelf wear. E-me if interested.
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 00:22:03 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: If it's not broke, don't break it...
Pete, Could you have possibly messed up the timing by moving the ignition
distributor when you replaced the cap. Is the rotor down good? Cap must also
snap into it's position. Run through the check list.
13 degrees before TDC is the initial setting. Then look while the timing
light is hooked up to see if you have advance when you rev up the engine to
2000 rpm, advance should be close to 40 degrees BTDC. See D:04:01. Once you
have determined it 's not timing or advance. Then I would look into fuel.
Black plugs usually means it's running to rich. I would then think you need
to adjust the CO setting. You could also have low pressure on the top of the
control plunger which would allow it to rise to high and cause an enrichment
problem. Refer to D:02:01 for proper settings of fuel pressure. Be sure to
check the 02 sensor, and the frequency valve, If the lambda circuit isn't
working properly, the lower chamber of the fuel distributor could be allowing
to much fuel to the injectors also.
Just a few hints.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 05:32:17 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: TA Bolts...an end?
Les - As I suggested in my previous posting, a survey of the 'fleet'
would be a grand idea. All we need is some guidance on how to
accomplish it. As far as your figures are concerned, if the
percentage of "imperfect" bolts (whatever that means) is as high as
50%, we have a great deal of "worrying" to do. Keep in mind my
perspective ... on one car (mine) I had one break completely, and the
other was significantly bent. And, when we looked at another small
group of cars, over 1/3 of the bolts were bent. As I mentioned in my
first post on this subject, I am an engineer on the Boeing 747
program. Do you remember the crash of a 747 freighter in Amsterdam
in the early 90's? It was only the second crash of a 747 that was
attributed to failure of the fuse pins that attach the engine pylons
to the wing. The fuse pins are fancy bolts that hold together
critical joints ... that had no reliable structural redundancy. With
only two catastrophic failures in a fleet of almost 1000 airplanes,
the Boeing Company undertook a program to redesign the fuse pins and
pylon attachments, and this program ultimately cost the company over
$1 Billion. I was the Principal Lead Engineer given the
responsibility of the new fuse pin design, and my own concept layouts
for a redesigned pylon attachment were used as the basis for the new
design that was ultimately implemented. My point is that well over
$1 Billion was spent over a short period of years because of two
failures that were attributed to cracking and corrosion of the fuse
pins, in a joint that was not originally designed with the level of
fail-safety and structural redundancy that is currently state-of-the-
art. In addition to the people on the List who said that they had
experienced failures of the TAB, I know of at least one PNDC member
who also had the misfortune of a total fracture. Luckily, it
happened at low speed going over a bump. My fractured bolt happened
during routine inspection, and the lab later confirmed that it was
90% cracked through when I tried to check the torque on it. It would
have failed on the trip home from the tech session if I had not
discovered it when I did. Am I worried about this entire situation?
Damn right! If you aren't, then I will pray for you.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
<snip>
Secondly, actual bolt failure is a very tiny percentage (less than
5%), of course if yours should be one that fails you immediately go
to 100%. Final figure is that a very high percentage of bolts are
not perfect should you inspect them, best guestimate I can get is 30%
to 50%.
<snip>
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 05:43:35 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Trailing Arm Bolt Program
Hello List - I just wanted to post a short message (yes ... I am
capable of brevity) to inform all interested parties that we have
received enough interest in the Inconel 718 bolts to proceed with
manufacturing. I have conferred with Darryl Tinnerstet, and he is in
agreement that the demand appears to justify the upfront financial
risk. We will be in touch with expected availability dates as soon
as they are known. Thanks for the great dialog on this subject, and
I look forward to helping you to conquer some of the
other "challenges" that our beloved Deloreans present us with.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1 - "The Spirit of America" (I will post some pictures that
will explain that title)
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 05:51:44 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Sunstar model questions & remarks
Walter,
You also forgot to mention,that it has wheelwells in the luggage
compartment,well good thing that the Delorean they used for
measurements,didn't have the fascia with the trademark "eyebrow"
otherwise it would have looked really mental with those dots in the
headlights and the sagging eyebrow.Do you think,I can get a
replacement front spoiler,to replace that bent one they put on the
models,from one of the Delorean vendors,Hmmm,maybe with all the
problems associated with the sunstar models,someone can startup a
mini Delorean service center.The only thing I do not like is how they
defaced the seats,by running the seatbelts across the seats.
I think that the "LK" was supposed to be "UK" for United Kingdom
(British)
But all kidding aside,I truly like my 1/18 sunstar models,as it sure
beats looking at my plastic BTTF Mcdonalds Delorean and my tiny
Delorean ZEE model.
Overall they did one hell of a good job,and the price is VERY
REASONABLE,as I sold one of my tiny ZEE models on ebay,and that sold
for $49.00 about a year ago.And you compare the Zee model,to the 1/18
and wonder why they(sunstar) did not try to get more for it.
Claude
000570
Windsor CT.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> The label on the model's box describe the car as a 1981 DeLorean
LK. What
> does the "LK" stand for? Did some foreigner forget to delete the
> accumulated typos at the end of his sentence before he pressed
the 'print'
> button on the typesetting machine?
>
... [Moderator snip]
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 01:23:16 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Injector Question
In a message dated 11/18/01 1:29:12 PM Central Standard Time,
ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Possibly, John...
> But that doesn't explain why ALL 6 injectors..drip. Eric
>
while diagnosing my fuel problems earlier this year i learned that leaky
injectors are caused by three things - too rich of fuel mixture, too high
system pressure (should be around 5.1 bar), or worn injectors. i replaced my
injectors and now i no longer have the leak problem.
andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 08:10:32 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: TA Bolt questions
I'm sure that Lotus is quite profitable in their engineering
division. And that quite a few cars have benefited from the work
performed on them. The DeLorean included. I feel that the
double "Y" chassis w/the VIRM underbody is a great
improvement over the original seperate front crossmember &
rear subframe held together by the GRP underbody. Hey, if you
want to nit-pick, I even prefer the final design of the intierior vs.
the one on the prototype. The point to my posting is that while
Lotus did a good amount of work and research on the
DeLorean, they failed to properly complete it. And where Lotus
did not complete their work properly by way of not dedicating
themselves to the DeLorean 100% as they should have, this has
caused problems for the DMC-12, and their owners.
Is my statement a broad one? Yes, it is. Is it based upon "very
little information"? Well, that depends on how you look at things.
Hands on expierience, yes. Hands on, I've really only delt with my
DeLorean. But, there are quite a few things here. We have failing
pivot bolts on the rear trailing arms, a front end recall kit for both
the lower ball joints and the front frame of the chassis, failing
pivot bolts for the shift linkage, snapping muffler brackets, the list
can go on. Over all information? No. Colin Chapman was the
man credited with most all of the innovations @ Lotus. And he
worked on the DeLorean. Now with him gone, GM's influence
over Lotus with their own lack-luster reputation as it is (since
after all they did own it), combined with the below-par treatment
that the DeLorean recieved, I would say that puts them into a bad
light as far as the dedication/completion of their work goes.
Even a quick search on Google using "Lotus Esprit Problem"
yielded some interesting results. Even the Esprit appears to
have problems. Things ranging from replacement of "U" joints,
to use of substandard hoses & materials, failing motor mounts,
to even hazardous fires caused by catalytic converters @ low
speeds. So I guess that throws out my previous posting that
Lotus owners have no problems (I assumed, and we all know
what assumption is the mother of :p ). Yes, that is some pretty
broad information for a pretty broad statement.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxx> wrote:
> That is a pretty broad statement to make based
> on very little information. Lotus brings in far
> more money (and profit) on it's engineering
> consultancy business than it has ever made making
> race or road cars. In fact, it's the contract
> engineering side of the company that the previous
> owners were most interested in. Most sports cars
> from major manufacturers have benefitted from
> suspension and chassis tuning by Lotus and
> some have even had engine tuning done by Lotus.
>
> Mike
>
> [snip]
>
> But if you own a car made by another mfg who
> contracted work to Lotus, be wary of what they designed.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 05:12:54 -0700
From: "Marcel Bourgon" <mbourgon@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Web-page! Sunstar model door fixes and more!
Thank you for your information and pictures\
Marcel in El Paso 81
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 9:48 AM
Subject: [DML] New Web-page! Sunstar model door fixes and more!
> Greetings everyone! As you may know i posed the question to the list
> about fixing the Sunstar Model doors. well, Walt (000570) replied and
> gave great instructions on repairing the Sunstar Model. Using this
> information, i have created a web-page including pics, with step-by-
> step instructions on the scale torsion bar adjustments.
>
> Please visit: http://www.88-mph.com
>
> This page is just launched and will expand to include links to pics
> of customized models and images of various full-sized cars! So start
> submitting and help expand my site!
>
> Thank you all.
>
> -Jeff Chabotte
> Norwich, CT
> About to achieve the dream!
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 09:37:57 -0500
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: seeking a car
I could be in the market for another DeLorean. Since I sold mine, life is not the same!
I'm looking for a turbo powered, standard transmission, any year DeLorean. It must have all the upgrades done, be clean, starts and runs well, and has been loved and caressed by an owner who really appreciated the car.
Please contact me privately.
Marvin Stein
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
web: printeddrinkware.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:27:34 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Toby
Very impressive credentials, I don't think we can get better than that
unless there's someone from NASA who worked on re-entry :-).
By imperfect bolts I meant what we all mean: rusted, bent, corroded.
I still say, enough on the bolts, unless there is some firsthand failure
information that someone can pass along, someone who actually
experienced a failure, while in motion.
(I wanted to say something about recalls by PJ Grady and DMC Joe but I'm
not going to).
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 16:22:37 -0000
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
Subject: DMC Houston HiPo engine
Has anyone tried out the DMC Houston high-output engine? It is
supposed to put out about 190 to 200 HP and I am curious about anyone
who might have opinions on not only the upgraded engines performance,
but on DMC Houston's service as well. DMC Houston has a HP/torque
graph for their upgraded engine (which is nice), but it is not all
that informative since they do not show a stock engine to compare
against. I e-mailed asking what kind of a wait there is on this
service, but they did not reply. I might be interested in this
service down the road a bit, but my engine is in pretty good shape
and I could probably put together a pretty nice blower setup with the
same power for the same money (roughly $6500 I believe).
Also, to hit another topic, one of the annoyances of the DeLorean are
the side windows. Has anyone ever considered modifying the window to
make the upper half removable, kind of like a T-Top? Just a
thought...
Thanks,
Scott Arnold
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 12:12:24 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: DMC Houston HiPo engine
>Also, to hit another topic, one of the annoyances of the DeLorean are
>the side windows. Has anyone ever considered modifying the window to
>make the upper half removable, kind of like a T-Top? Just a
>thought...
I think you might find that the non movable glass is structural providing rigidity to the door frame itself.
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:57:35 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Euro spec and performance exhaust
Pretty much yes, the exhaust appears to be the same physicly,
minus the cat. I believe it's also missing the LAMBDA system as
well since the article I've read about it states that the euro
version has all of it's "...restrictive emissions controls removed."
The only other thing is the increased output of fuel. The air/fuel
ratio is changed manually. More power, but overall worse on the
environment, and less fuel efficient. I believe this mod yeilded
about 15-17 hp according to the article.
It may be a nice mod here state side, but only if your car is in an
area that does not require smog checks. Other wise you'll have
alot of work each year having to reinstall the cat, and reutune the
engine just for a 15 minute test.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote:
> Do any of you know if the euro spec Delorean's exhaust was
the same as the US spec only minus the cat? Does anyone in
the US sell any performance exhaust upgrades and if someone
does what exactly is it you get? I'd realy like to do something with
my exhaust system to let the motor breath better and for a little
sound.
>
> Casey at Putsch.1@xxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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