To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Engine Help $$$$
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
2. Re: High Speed Accelleration...
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
From: tucker11199@xxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Fender fixed, now what
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. TYRE WEAR/THRUST ANGLE
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. air induction bolt broken! help!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. Fuel Glitch
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Light Switch Modification
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
11. PRV in Lancia Thema
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
12. More PRV and Bosch links
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
13. black stripe removal?
From: "Jason Cody" <atarilep@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re:Newbie help
From: Ebe5173@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
17. RE: air induction bolt broken! help!
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: black stripe removal?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
20. Re: air induction bolt broken! help!
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Black Stripe - different kinds?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Fuel Glitch
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
25. Re: Fuel Glitch
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 01:31:33 -0000
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Engine Help $$$$
For those who must (and don't have the right equipment), I found it
easier to adjust the air/fuel mixture with the o2 system unplugged.
Unplugging the o2 system is also a nice test. The idle seeking on
my D pretty much stopped once the o2 system was unplugged. This
suggests that the o2 system is trying to compensate for a air/fuel
mixture that was still off, even though the engine was now
running. With some additional tweaking of the air/fuel mixture, I was
able to almost completely eliminate the idle seeking. Power seems
down a bit -- I must have had it running a little rich.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 01:54:30 -0000
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: High Speed Accelleration...
I did some more checking on the way back from work tonight, and it
did the same thing... except I noticed when I would be going about
65, I could give it some gas, but when I went all the way towards the
floor with the pedal, suddenly it would almost "die out" and drop
speed. I could back off the pedal and it would keep the speed and
rise slowly, but it didn't seem as if it was doing any sort of
down/up shifting. I have been keeping an eye on the revs to make
sure it wasn't doing anything excessivly high/low...and it seems ok
from just my general car knowledge. I do notice that sometimes it
stays in first gear a bit too long...but the moment I take the foot
off the accelerator, it will downshift into second. I've never
noticed it start in second gear from a stop, either, as some people
have encountered... Essentially, it feels like it's not getting
enough power somehow...not as if it's misjudging what gear to be in
at high speed....
The mystery continues...
Pete
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Pete,
>
> I have a hunch that your problem may be a bad transmission computer
> governor.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 05:16:55 -0000
From: tucker11199@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
Yo Toby,
You've got my attention re the Inconel TA bolts. Count me in.
Tuck 16940
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:30:04 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
Toby and group, I talked to an applications engineer today at SPS
Technologies, these are the same people who made the torsion bar for the
doors. He is also a car
buff and he understood what I was talking about on the TAB bolts. One of his
comments to me was, if you up grade to the 12.9 bolts which has 15% more
tensile strength, wouldn't it be better if something has to bend a little, it
would be the bolt and not the frame or any of the parts around it. He said
that what was making it bend has to be transferred to something. With some
good plating and baking would make them almost bullet proof for life. Yes,
they could bend a little under certain conditions, but wouldn't any part and
if were going to push the car to these limits, then the whole suspension
system should be reworked. I took a bolt out of one of cars that is a turbo
and it had a slight bend and slight rust. It was unplated and was in a car
with about 85,000 miles and a Turbo.
I guess for about $5.00 to $8.00 dollars for the 12.9 bolt, plated . Why
couldn't they be replaced every now and then if you didn't feel good about
them. My 11004 with 55,000 miles still has the original bolts and I'm not the
lightest on the gas peddle.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 05:39:53 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fender fixed, now what
I had a lot of scratches on my car when I first got it too. I used #80
grit sandpaper then #120 and then finished it off with the "blending
pad" I got from a Delorean vendor (they are courser than you generally
can find localy). I also did it without the #120 grit going right into
the blending pad. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you control the stroke and
pressure as you are scratching the surface and if you don't "grain" it
straight you have to start all over. On flat surfaces use a short
piece of 2x4 to have even pressure. Don't ever push hard on the hood.
Finish up with the S/S cleaner (the expensive spray can). After that a
little Windex and you can win the next Concours! It is a lot of work
to do it by hand, the Delorean shops have power tools that make it
easier and faster, but it can be done by hand. If you do a panel you
must do the entire panel to make it even and as you do one you will
find yourself going around the car a panel at a time. Take your time
and the car can look like new! You can start with the #60 and if you
don't like it just go over it with #80 or #100.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 09:33:24 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TYRE WEAR/THRUST ANGLE
David (and List),
Thank you for your advice and assistance. My local motor mechanic, who has
worked on my car in the past, is going to check and adjust the thrust angle
should it be required. I'll make the workshop manual available to him so
that he can follow the correct procedure.
I have a new set of rear shocks which my son got in from the States some
time ago. I'd like to fit them but there seems to be a problem in that
they are different to the ones currently on the car. In the next day or
so, I'll post a pic of the both types and perhaps someone can tell me what
the problem is.
Lastly, DeLoreans are quite a rare breed here in Australia and not many
motor mechanics are familiar with them, let alone seen one.
Lance Haslewood
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:56:40 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: air induction bolt broken! help!
Hey all,
well i decided to be a fool and remove my air induction manifold. looks like
i got more than i bargained for, just like i was afraid of. the bolt that
holds the manifold to the engine casing near the #6 cylinder (closest to the
A/C comp) broke in half while removing it. the other three came out fine. i
pulled the manifold off (WOW is it dirty down there.....) and there's about
3/16ths of screw shank sticking up from the cylinder side. just a jagged
little beastie. i've got it soaked in liquid wrench right now and i hit it
with a hammer a few times to maybe break the rust holding it in. i tried
getting some vice grips on it and i can get them to grip it good, but that's
with both tips of the grips touching the casing. unfortunately the screw
does not come out that way - it's more up and down than it is perpendicular
to the casing. know what i mean? in other words, any turning motion you put
on it is not the correct angle of torque to remove the bolt.
i went to sears and bought a craftsman bolt extracting kit that will work
with metric bolts. however i'm a little bit afraid to use it because of the
angle of drilling is so odd - it's not straight up and and down and it's not
perpendicular to the casing.
let's assume the worst and that i cannot get the bolt out. what would you
do? just screw the other three bolts down good (of course i would get new
bolts rather than use those old stressed-out rusty things)? that seems just
WRONG, but is that all you can do? or would it be better to make a gasket for
the left-hand cylinder wall and hope that seals it ok? or is this stupid and
the ONLY way is to get that damn thing out???
any tips, insight, etc are GREATLY appreciated!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:12:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Glitch
Okay, I recall that this is a pretty common DeLorean thing, so I'm sure
it'll be pretty easy for someone to clue me in.
When I get down to about a quarter tank of gas, my car lurches quite
suddenly and quite hard - usually while in first or second gear. Since it
was pretty gear/speed specific, I thought it might be the transmission for
a second, but the constant seems to be the level of gasoline. Refresh my
memory, is this a sign of a failing fuel pump, fuel sender, or fuel pickup
hose?
Is there any way that I can check to be sure?
-Christian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 11:17:52 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Light Switch Modification
Hello again,
I wrote:
> I am currently working on a somewhat decent writeup on this matter.
> (my notes were a totall mess, so I had to sort them out first)
> When finished I will submit it to the Technical Information
> Library at DMCnews.com I guess that from there it will find
> it's way to the DMC-Tech files too.
I've finished the write up and Dave has allready put
it up at DMCnews.com. Check it out at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html
I haven't had any time to make some pictures and/or a schematic
(I DO have to sleep some times ;-), those will follow asap,
but I think most people can succesfully do this modification
following the provided text anyway.
If you have any questions or comments please mail me at
jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (jan [at] vdwouw.demon.nl).
Greetings,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:31:02 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Broken Muffler Bracket.
While moving cars around in my driveway, I heard a nasty
tapping sound in the engine compartment. As it turns out, the
upper muffler bracket had broken. And the remaining piece
hanging on the muffler was hitting the alternator blades.
I can't figure out for the life of me what caused the bracket to
break. The crack that goes thru isn't a clean snap. Nor is it a new
fracture. Only a small portion was clean where it had just
snapped. The remainder of the crack was caked in what looked
like years of road grime. So evidently this isn't new damage.
Since the DeLorean is my only car, I need to get this fixed. I've
temporarily used a length of steel strap to hold the muffler up. I
enlargened the hole to slide the welded post on the muffler into,
and I bolted the other end to the coolant bottle bracket. It's not as
high up as it was before, but at least the muffler is no longer
resting on the rear portion of the chassis. In the meanwhile, I'll
keep driving to a minimum, and will take it easy.
I don't know if I can weld the bracket back together. But it doesn't
matter anyhow since I don't have access to any welding
equipment anyhow. So it looks like I'll be ordering a new bracket.
Any idea as to what caused this? This wasn't a sudden fracture,
it looks like it took a bit of time. When i get a chance, I'll go over
the other brackets to check for any problems.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:06:46 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: PRV in Lancia Thema
An Uruguayan DeLorean enthusiast to the rescue...
Read the fully story of the PRV in Lancia Thema.
Stian
----- Original Message -----
From: Federico Ragni
Hello, Stian, I'm another DeLorean entusiast, but from Uruguay (south america, not be mistake with paraguay..).
Well, like an italian descendent, i like the italian cars very much.
The PRV was used in the Thema until the end of 1992, the '93 model was equiped with the Alfa V6 (2959 cm3).
The PRV engine was chosen because Lancia needed a large engine for exports markets because in Italy the 2000 up cm3 engines are very penalised with big taxes and the development of an engine for a small number of production models don't was a good inversion...
The PRV fitted in the Thema was the 2849 cm3 with 150 CV a 5000 rpm, and 23,4 mkp torque at 3500 rpm, with Bosch LH 2.2 Jetronic electronic fuel injection
Top speed of 205 Km/h, 0-100 in 8,4 s (factory specifications, model year 91-92).
Well, i hope that this information interest you.
Best wishes
Federico Ragni
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:55:19 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More PRV and Bosch links
More PRV info and photos of other PRV variants:
http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/v6.html
Also, a few people have e-mailed me having trouble with the www.bosch.de page in finding the correct search for "DeLorean" parts.
Try this link:
http://app5.bosch.de/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/BoschVer.woa/3/wo/CX0000lD200FN200V5/3.2
If the session has "timed out", try and go back to each slash ( / ) It will work eventually.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:59:05 -0500
From: "Jason Cody" <atarilep@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: black stripe removal?
Has anyone removed the optional black stripe on the side? How hard is it? Precautions?
-JWC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 14:02:57 EST
From: Ebe5173@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re:Newbie help
(Moderators note: Frank, I'm sure all the DML guys out on the East coast can help you out. Please reply directly to Frank with any info you can help with.)
Hey guys, im new to this list....im looking for a Delorean for a driver...any
out there for sale? Looking for one with all the updates....and in my area
NJ NY area...
Regards
Frank
1964 MGB
1993 Lotus Esprit Sport 300
2001 BMW 330i
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:15:30 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: TA Bolt questions
List,
If you do buy a bolt and have it plated, you must ensure that it is
subsequently
"de-enbrittled". Any sort of electro-plating causes hydrogen enbrittlement.
Heat treatment is the way to remove it.
My day job is electro-plating, but we don't get involved in de-enbrittleing.
It's only really important when a bolt is working near its extreme limits
of strength, as seems to be the case here.
Chris P DOC UK (Derby Plating Services Ltd.)...for the last 22 years.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: TA Bolt questions
> > > I guess for about $5.00 to $8.00 dollars for the 12.9 bolt, plated .
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 19:53:31 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
Heh. If you may recall Robert I had this exact same problem happen to
me last fall while driving over some railroad tracks. If the mount
was original, thats your problem. For some reason, the original
mounts are very weak, and have a tendency to break. The venders sell
replacement ones which are much stronger. So quit trying to figure
out why it broke. And this goes to ANYONE who isn't sure about this
matter. Check your engine comparment and inspect the upper muffler
bracket on the passenger side of the car (above the alternator) If
it has been replaced, it is probably black and made from solid formed
metal. The originals were thinner and had curved edges. If this is
the case in your car, look carefully at it and you'll probably see
some fatiuge cracks. Replace it. Better now than when it breaks.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, DMCVegas@xxxx wrote:
> While moving cars around in my driveway, I heard a nasty
> tapping sound in the engine compartment. As it turns out, the
> upper muffler bracket had broken. And the remaining piece
> hanging on the muffler was hitting the alternator blades.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:12:42 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: air induction bolt broken! help!
You can you weld a nut on to it.
I'd get it out, don't reassemble it with the broken bolt.
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2001 12:57 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; danRC30@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] air induction bolt broken! help!
Hey all,
well i decided to be a fool and remove my air induction manifold. looks
like
i got more than i bargained for, just like i was afraid of. the bolt
that
holds the manifold to the engine casing near the #6 cylinder (closest to
the
A/C comp) broke in half while removing it. the other three came out
fine. i
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 20:14:07 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
Grady (and I'm sure some others) sell a greatly reinforced version of
the bracket, with some gussetting welded across one of the sides. In
the mean time take it clear off the car. It will be fine without it
for a while. I would not bother trying to weld it back together, the
original design is prone to breakage, I've seen many cars where it's
just missing altogether.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, DMCVegas@xxxx wrote:
> While moving cars around in my driveway, I heard a nasty
> tapping sound in the engine compartment. As it turns out, the
> upper muffler bracket had broken.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:36:40 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: black stripe removal?
My black stripe turned grey. And since it was on my black painted car,
it just looked silly. Mine came off pretty easily, but it was obviously
taken off in the past. I like it better with it off, though every idiot
door swinger that isn't paying attention makes a small dent (and chips my
paint!).
Let this be a lesson to anyone who wants to remove it.
1537 frankenlorean
On Wed, 14 Nov 2001 13:59:05 -0500 "Jason Cody" <atarilep@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> Has anyone removed the optional black stripe on the side? How hard
> is it? Precautions?
>
> -JWC
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 15:30:41 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: air induction bolt broken! help!
ah, andy. All I can say is: You told you so!
You're going to be pissed if you have to put it back together like
that....
You can probably drill it out if you're careful.
If you have to drill, my dad taught me some old indian tricks that I'll
pass on.
You obviously can't drill onto a non-parallel face, it just doesn't
work.. the bit always travels. PLace the bit perpendicular with the face
that you're cutting into, and start drilling that way. Then when the tip
of the bit gets to the center of the bolt, turn the drill slowly to
parallel with the bolt, cutting it with the side of the drill. Then you
can proceed to extract the bolt by drilling. If you're careful, you can
take out the bolt in pieces without destroying the threads.
You may have already known this, but I thought i'd try to help.. You
should also consider getting a set of COBALT drill bits. I was amazed
how good these bits are! You spend less time worrying WHEN you'll get
there so you can spend more time worrying about how you're going to get
there... If al else fails, I have an engine block for sale.. hehehe!
I even drew you a picture. :)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:06:23 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
For info mine has done exactly the same..... Bad batch????
Paul
6463
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:24:10 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Black Stripe - different kinds?
Hi All
When my car arrived in England, it was missing the piece of side trim to the rear of the
passenger door handle - the one about 5" long.
I bought a replacement from Houston via Wingray and when it arrived I noticed it's different
to the rest of the trim on my car. Having checked other DeLoreans, it appears MY trim is not
"right". It's more rounded, and more "rubbery" to the touch. Were there differing trims?
Mine's quite an early car, and there's nothing to suggest the trim was ever changed.
Cheers
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:30:11 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch
Check the baffle in the fuel tank is still attached to the bottom of the tank - by a
little threaded stud moulded to the "floor" of the tank, and a nut and washer. You can
access it by removing the fuel pump. In fact, I managed to catch the mount in the photo I
took of my old tank (together with all the crap!)
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02229.jpg
That stud has a habit of breaking.
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 21:44:12 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Broken Muffler Bracket.
I have noticed that the edges of the various muffler brackets are
sharp and unfinished. In an environment with lots of vibration and
heat, cracks can start at sharp edges and burred edges. The cracks
then propagate through the part from cyclic fatigue. I have seen
similar cracked brackets on other cars. This is always a concern with
high-performance jet aircraft as well. The bracket can be welded by
any muffler shop, or any other shop with normal welding equipment. It
may be a good idea to take it off for welding. The high current of
resistance welding could damage the alternator or other electronic
components. I would recommend smoothing off all edges of any sheet
metal parts that are removed from the car for any reason. It's always
a good policy, and makes the cars look better, and safer to work on
with bare hands.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 17:22:49 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Glitch
>When I get down to about a quarter tank of gas, my car lurches quite
>suddenly and quite hard - usually while in first or second gear.
It sounds like you have a hole in your fuel suction hose. As long as the
fuel level stays above the hole, then the car runs fine. But on sudden
acceleration then the fuel sloshes away and the pump sucks air. If this is
your problem, then you might hear noises from the fuel pump as it runs dry.
If the fuel tank has never been opened before, now would be a good time to
clean it out and replace a few parts if they look deteriorated:
fuel suction hose
fuel suction screen
fuel baffle (parts are missing on some cars)
fuel pump boot & cover
fuel lines at the tank
And while you are in there, consider replacing the metal fuel pump bracket &
metal return hose if they look rusted. Also look at the fuel filler
opening. The originals can rust badly.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
