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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Auto antenna problems...
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Engine Help $$$$
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
4. Re: What other cars used the PRV-V6
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
5. Magazine rebuttal
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Brake Lights
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Auto antenna problems...
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Auto antenna problems...
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. License plate light part
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
10. TYRE WEAR
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Auto antenna problems...
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
13. Re: Engine Help $$$$
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
14. Re: TYRE WEAR
From: Scott Arnold <scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx>
15. Gold Delorean
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxx>
16. RE: TYRE WEAR
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 17:26:19 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
I think he's trying to say that he's developed a better bolt is that right Toby? Reminds
me of some of my college Physics classes, I was never too sure what was going on there
either.
tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hello List - This is Toby Peterson ... checking in.
>
> I thought that I'd take a little time and give you some addtional
> background behind the engineering considerations that go into
> resolving issues like the trailing arm bolts (TAB). I will try to be
> as brief as possible, and will also try to make it "value added" for
> everyone's learning.
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 03:54:54 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Auto antenna problems...
If it still moves up and down at all it probably just needs to be
cleaned and lubricated. This should always be done when you change the
oil. (Good advice for all of your cars.) If it won't go up or down the
drive cable is broken. It is a nylon cable that is inside the antennae
and is what pushes it up and down from the inside. Over time and many
cycles of flexing they eventually break. The repair is to either
replace the entire antennae (expensive) or get a mast kit, take the
antennae power unit apart, replace the mast, and reassemble. Other
less likely causes are electrical in the motor, relay, wiring, fuses.
These are troubleshot in the usual manner. To rule out just get a
meter or test light on the wires going to the motor and make sure it's
getting power. Make sure the antennae is securely fastened as it needs
to be grounded good to work properly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> I know old automatic car antennas have a tendency to not go
> up and down properly all the time, but what is the usual problem
> causing this? I've only had mine working one day for the first
> time since I've owned the car (just got the radio replaced
yesterday)
> and I'm already having problems with it not "descending" all the
> way down. A couple of the sections seem to not want to collapse
> and go down. So what is probably my problem?
>
> As always, thank you in advance for the helpful replies,
>
> Richard
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 04:35:21 -0000
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Engine Help $$$$
Since shortly after I purchased my DeLorean back at the end of
September, I started having engine trouble. It ran fine during the
test drive so I even drove it home from Chicago to Missouri.
Sadly, one of the reasons I bought it was because it ran well. At
least it lasted for the trip home! Since then the engine has had
trouble idling and won't accelerate -- The engine will not idle when
cold, and the engine tries to cut out and die rather than speeding up
when the accelerator is pressed. The problem seems worse when the
engine is cold, but now I can't get it running long enough to get it
warm so that I can double check. When it is completely cold, it will
start and run great for about 5 seconds and then it dies. I can hold
down slightly on the air metering flap and it will idle.
Unfortunately, once the engine gets luke warm, if it dies then it
won't restart. At this point, playing with the air metering flap
seems to have no effect. The last time I was actually able to get the
engine completely warm without killing it, it ran fairly well; it was
drivable. I have fuel pressure sending units hooked up now and the
fuel pressure (both primary pressure and control pressure) look fine.
The primary was about 72psi and the control pressure slowly climbed
in pressure at a rate that appeared to be in spec with what is printed
in the workshop manual. I also have a new control pressure regulator.
With the correct fuel pressures, the initial push-on-flap-for-idle
problem suggests maybe a vacuum leak. However, this does not coincide
with the luke-warm engine no-start problem. I'm stumped. I can't
imagine what would cause the symptoms I am seeing. Perhaps I have
more than one problem? Having just spent around $16000 for the car
and various parts in the past 1 1/2 months, I only have about $1500
more I can spend to get the engine running again. Is this enough to
send the car to DMC Houston? Anyone want to stop by Columbia, MO, and
get my engine running properly for $1500? I might could swing $2000,
but it would be difficult with X-mas coming up soon. I HATE fixing
these types of engine problems! Help! I have already put
probably one hundred hours of work into this and other problems so
far, and I was hoping I would actually get to drive this car some day.
After $16000 and 100 hours, a pretty garage ornament is just not
satisfying. I am beginning to think maybe I should have just bought a
Corvette! At least I would be driving it by now! Anyone have any
advice?
Thanks,
Scott Arnold
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 06:20:18 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: What other cars used the PRV-V6
While the engine swap for a 3.0 litre PRV-6 from the Premier/
Monaco is possible, it would seem that the engine electronics
used are not without problems of their own. One owner reports
that if the engine doesn't start, you have to shake the ignition
ECU in the engine compartment to get the motor to start.
Full details about the history of the Premier and some of the
quirks about it are available @ the following link for those who
are interested.
http://www.allpar.com/model/premier.html
I'm not shooting anything down. I too am curious about the
possibility of engine swaps as well.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> Theoreticly, you could find a Eagle motor in a junk yard (I see
them all
> the time for about $300 complete). All you would need to do is
swap the
> cradle in from the DeLorean engine, and it should bolt right
up...
>
> You will also be getting a more modern fuel injection system,
and
> ignition system. Good for a extra 20 ponies.
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 08:01:25 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Magazine rebuttal
What is all the brew-haha over the new magazine? There is NOTHING wrong
with DMC Houston selling itself. Would you rather they hide behind a
club or organizations as most of you feel is the case with DOA? There
is no pretense here folks...."Hi we are DMC Houston, this is our
magazine, if you like it subscribe, if you don't like it, thanks for
checking it out" What the hell is wrong with that?
I am blown away at this thread as we are always reading negative threads
about other organizations and vendors. How can anyone consider this
magazine "conflict of interest"? Do you have any clue as to what you
are talking about? How can you even say that? It would be a conflict
of interest if DMC Houston started a club like the DOA but hid the fact
that they are the real force behind it.
There is NO conflict of interest here. Don't try to read into something
that just isn't there. Don't taint the enjoyment that most of us got
from this magazine. Why would DMC Houston want to have advertising
from other vendors? The only reason for selling advertising in a
magazine is to make money. If DMC Houston can publish this without
having to deal with the headache of selling ad space what's wrong with
that? The magazine would still be a publication for DMC Houston, it's
products and services. If you feel that this is stuff that they should
pay for as a part of doing business then don't subscribe but don't try
to twist this into something that it's not.
Tom Watkins
#005732
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 11:29:06 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Brake Lights
Jim thanks for the advice. I went ahead and ordered a new brake switch. Do
you know who to take the old one out? Do you just pull it or unscrew it?
Thanks
Willie
-----Original Message-----
From: jwit6@xxxxxx [mailto:jwit6@xxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 5:41 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Brake Lights
ads from the brake pedal lever.
From
what you've described so far, I think you have a bad switch.
Jim
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 12:51:22 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Auto antenna problems...
This may sound a little weird/off base; however, I think it is worth
mentioning. I was told that WD-40 could accelerate rusting. Now this did
not seem logical to me so I ignored it until...
As Background info: I live near the beach and corrosion is always a problem.
I built a dock some years ago and during the process installed a radial
arm saw under my house. To make a long story short, this area is basically
open to the sea (salt) breeze.
I sprayed WD-40 on the steel tube of my radial arm saw thinking this would
prevent the salt air from rusting it. The next morning the entire tube was
covered with a nice light even layer of rust. I'm talking everywhere I had
sprayed having a uniform layer of rust (not just a couple of spots).
Thinking I had got to it a little late, I re-applied WD-40 to the tube
again. The next morning, more rust evenly dispersed over the areas I had
sprayed.
I also tried this on a couple of tools with similar results.
Now I have no way to know scientifically whether the WD-40 did or did not
accelerate the rust; however, if corrosion is an issue, I use some other
product to lubricate.
BTW, I still use WD-40 for many items.
Ed
10541
>From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Auto antenna problems...
>Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 22:17:45 -0000
>
>Turn on the radio, get out of the car, & spray the mast with liberal
>amounts of WD-40, wipe it off, & spray it again
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 13:00:41 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Auto antenna problems...
Sorry for the second post on this but discussing a differend angle.
Before you do anything, I recommend an inspection of the antenna itself to
identify what is preventing it from lowering. Motors and gears are not
normally inteligent enough to figure out there is a problem. All they do is
turn on and off as directed.
Last thing you would want to do is burn up your motor or strip gears because
something external wasn't sliding right. Also you may wish to consider
disconnecting the power to the antenna motor since every time you turn
on/off the radio (wether by the iginition or radio power knob itself) the
motor will try to raise/lower the antenna.
Ed
10541
>From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Auto antenna problems...
>Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 22:17:45 -0000
>
>Turn on the radio, get out of the car, & spray the mast with liberal
>amounts of WD-40, wipe it off, & spray it again
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 13:18:13 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: License plate light part
Hi,
One of the metal connectors that holds the light bulb in place inside my
license plate light is missing. Does anyone have a wrecked light that still
has the metal connector in place? The housing itself looks brand new so I
dont want to go buy a whole new lamp assembly. please email me privately if
you do.
Thanks
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 07:57:23 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TYRE WEAR
Has anyone experienced unusually rapid wear on the rear tyres? I recently
fitted new Bridgestone tyres and was shocked to see that they are now
almost bald. Would probably have done no more than 3,000 miles since they
were fitted. The wear is even indicating that there are no suspension
problems.
My other car, a V8-powered performance car, gets exceptionally good tyre
wear. The tyres on this car are also Bridgestone.
Lance Haslewood
Australia
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 21:03:30 -0000
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolts - Engineering
As a future Delorean owner, i myself must say that this issue is a
very real concern for me. I drive hard on my daily car, and i expect
the same on my weekender which will be my Delorean. I'm sure a few
others of us here on the list appreciate the work that you have
undertaken for the benifit and safety of the Delorean community. I am
going to keep a close eye on the future availability of this product.
As the old adage goes: "Buy Right, Buy Once."
Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Striving for the dream.
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 21:34:12 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Auto antenna problems...
That sure is weird, because WD-40 is supposed to remove & prevent
rust. Anyway, another product to use is Tri-Flow. Its like WD-40,
plus teflon, minus the bad smell. I think the last time I cleaned my
antenna, I actually used Tri-Flow, but I have used WD-40 in the past.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxx> wrote:
> This may sound a little weird/off base; however, I think it is
worth
> mentioning. I was told that WD-40 could accelerate rusting
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 00:49:33 -0000
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Engine Help $$$$
That's right, I am replying to my own message. I was a little peeved
this morning when I wrote the previous message...after cooling down, I
went back at it. To my surprise, I spent some time adjusting the
air/fuel mixture (using the set screw in the fuel distributor) and got
her running! However, I still need to perform some cold weather
testing as it was fairly warm outside today. The worst problem I have
now seems to be the idle seeking, which is ranging all the way from
500rpm up to 1500rpm. Anyone have any suggestions on if this can be
improved?
Thanks,
Scott
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, scott-c-arnold@xxxx wrote:
> Since shortly after I purchased my DeLorean back at the end of
> September, I started having engine trouble. It ran fine during the
> test drive so I even drove it home from Chicago to Missouri.
> Sadly, one of the reasons I bought it was because it ran well. At
> least it lasted for the trip home! Since then the engine has had
> trouble idling and won't accelerate -- The engine will not idle when
> cold, and the engine tries to cut out and die rather than speeding
up
> when the accelerator is pressed. ..
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:04:34 -0600
From: Scott Arnold <scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TYRE WEAR
What is the treadwear rating? This is normally printed on the side of the tire
somewhere. I had a Mustang Cobra with 180 treadwear and got only about 3000 miles out of
the tires. Likewise, I have had cars with 480 treadwear ratings on the tires and they
would go tens of thousands of miles. Personally, I would suggest tires with a treadwear
of about 300 for a DeLorean.
Lance Haslewood wrote:
> Has anyone experienced unusually rapid wear on the rear tyres? I recently
> fitted new Bridgestone tyres and was shocked to see that they are now
> almost bald. Would probably have done no more than 3,000 miles since they
> were fitted. The wear is even indicating that there are no suspension
> problems.
>
> My other car, a V8-powered performance car, gets exceptionally good tyre
> wear. The tyres on this car are also Bridgestone.
>
> Lance Haslewood
> Australia
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 19:26:52 -0600
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gold Delorean
[Moderator note - more info can be found at http://bigtexas.com/dmc/]
If anyone was still wondering about the gold Delorean in Snyder, TX, it's
still there. I was out in west Texas all last week on business and just
happened to be driving right through Snyder and decided to stop by to see if
it was still in the glass case in the lobby of Snyder National Bank. Sure
enough, it's still sitting there. The window sticker is framed and hanging
on the inside of the glass case and there is also a gold plated tire gauge
sitting on the floor next to the car, I'm assuming it came with the car. A
plaque says it is one of only 2 gold plated Deloreans ever made (we all know
there was a third but at the time it was one of only 2) and that Robert Mize
was the person who ordered it, which if memory serves me correctly, was the
president of Snyder National Bank at the time. I didn't have a camera and I
got there just 30 minutes before the bank lobby closed, so I didn't get any
pictures.
It still blows my mind that one of the rarest, most expensive and
sought after Deloreans, has been sitting in the lobby of a bank in a town
with a population of only 10000 people that's in the middle of nowhere for
the last 20 years! The tires are a little flat, and I would be willing to
bet every seal is as brittle as tissue paper, but I don't expect that it
will ever actually see the open road in it's lifetime, it's just to
irreplaceable to risk damaging it. It also said that the purchasing dealer
was Fred Hughes Buick in Abilene.
Coincidentally, I was doing an audit the
next day at Star Honda in Abilene, and they had just bought the dealership
lot from Fred Hughes six months ago. I asked the owner about Fred Hughes
Buick and he said Fred Hughes was selling out of all his dealerships, and
had sold out of his Buick dealership 3 years ago. If anyone has a chance to
stop by Snyder, Texas, the bank lobby hours are 9:00am to 3:00pm Monday
through Friday.
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 18:47:17 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: TYRE WEAR
Lance and group,
I share your pain. I have Yokohamas on my daily driver '82 out here in the
Arizona desert, and after less than 15,000 miles, the rear tires (to use the
American term ;-)) are gone. This is half of their expected life. The
front ones, strangely, look fine for the mileage on them. The wear is also
even on mine, and I checked the tire pressure on each side, and it too is
fine.
Anyone have any thoughts on this? The Yokos are high performance tires and
I had pretty much written it off to that (though why the front ones are fine
bothers me), but the fact that someone else with a different tire brand is
having this same problem is interesting.
Theories? Suggestions?
Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club
-----Original Message-----
From: Lance Haslewood [mailto:lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 1:57 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] TYRE WEAR
Has anyone experienced unusually rapid wear on the rear tyres? I recently
fitted new Bridgestone tyres and was shocked to see that they are now
almost bald. Would probably have done no more than 3,000 miles since they
were fitted. The wear is even indicating that there are no suspension
problems.
________________________________________________________________________
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