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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: unusual speedo failure
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
2. Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Fall Foliage Tour
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: front brake rotor replacement
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
6. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. Tire Pressure
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Strange click
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: MJ Fox, Rob Grady & Bob Zilla
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
11. Re: wet floor
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
12. Up to date styling?
From: "Michael Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
14. New photos of Sunstar's BTTF DeLorean now online
From: stephen@xxxxxxxx
15. Re: unusual speedo failure
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: Strange click
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Strange click
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Strange click
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
19. Brake Lights (again)
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
20. Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
22. Throttle sticking - I think
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
24. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. RE: Re: Strange click
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 03:46:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: unusual speedo failure
Had the same exact problem on my car. Dust cap had lost grip, and
wasn't turning the speedo cable.
Easy no hasle fix: Buy a new cap. It's cheap, and simply snaps right
on. No worrying about gluing, or fabricating anything.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, tobyp@xxxx wrote:
> Several cars in our club have had the caps repaired by applying
> electrical tape to the outside edge of the cap to make it snug in
the
> hub or spindle. This is a fairly common problem, from what we've
> seen. Another challenge is that the cap becomes "rounded off"
inside...
<SNIP>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 23:20:13 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
Walt and group. What if I had a metal cap made with extra beef / metal where
the cable installs. I have a machine shop that loves specials. They just
turned me 60 small pullys for the alternators for $5.00 ea. My original
source had dried up, so it was either turn them or get out of the alternator
business. Now the other source buy's from me.
What does the group think. New metal caps.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 00:10:34 -0500
From: "Aaron C." <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fall Foliage Tour
Hello,
As the only enthusiast on this tour, I would personally like to thank
everyone who came and made me feel like an owner, even if I won't have a
Delorean for at least two more years. Mike DeLuca, Nick Pitello, Mark, Dan
and everyone else who's names I didn't catch. Also, a special thanks to Rob
and Debbie for reminding me how great they are by being friendly and just
overall great. Not once did I feel like the 'odd man out' and everyone was
happy to see my red Plymouth at the tail end of the caravan.
I hope to see you all soon!
-Aaron Crocco
NYS Plate: OUTATYM
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 07:51:21 -0500
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: front brake rotor replacement
Walt,
I had the same problem with my Suburban a while back (1990 with 218,000
miles so far). I had a panic stop with a trailer attached that heated
things up real bad. After that I had pulsating brakes. The brake rotors
were only one week old. The problem was traced to "cheap" rotors bought at
a NAPA store. You know the ones, the one year warranty instead of lifetime?
I replaced them with the higher quality (from the same NAPA store) and the
problem went away for ever. I suggest replacement of the rotors with some
from the premium suppliers of Delorean parts.
P.S. I sure complement your tenacity, Walt. I think you could write this
groups reports by yourself. The issues you have had with your car have been
both enlightening and entertaining. Thanks for your constant input.
Bill Buckner
Instrumentation Supervisor
Electrical and Instrument Dept.
Pfizer, Inc.
Global Manufacturing
Holland, MI Facility
% Phone: 616-392-2375 x-2449
* Fax: 616-392-8267
* Email: william.buckner@xxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Ryan [mailto:deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 2:20 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] front brake rotor replacement
Driving hard in the mountains of Colorado I'm sure I
often do the equivalent of two quick consecutive panic
stops from 60mph. My rotors haven't warped.
I suspect the problem lies elsewhere.
Dick ryan
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:06:17 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: front brake rotor replacement
In a message dated 10/30/01 8:50:24 PM Central Standard Time,
tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> . I removed the dust
> shields to allow free flow of air through the area to enhance cooling.
> I installed new pads (Metalux brand) that run about 200 - 250 degrees
>
i thought the dust shields had a second function - to DIRECT air onto the
brakes for cooling????
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:17:44 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
Even with the air sensor plate at rest position some fuel must flow.
How would you expect the engine to idle without fuel? It is very
difficult to accuratly diagnose the fuel system without an injector
tester and a fuel pressure gauge. The best advice is to clean
everything up as good as you can, fix all leaks, see that all of the
injectors have a decent pattern and flow equally. Change the fuel
filter and then see how well the motor runs. Make sure you have
flushed all of the kerosene out of the system before trying to start
the motor. This is a continuous injector system ie: it always flows
fuel to all injecters, it doesn't know when each cylinder fires. Be
very careful that you have NO fuel leaks under pressure, it can become
very dangerous if in fact there is even a minor one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, jugeauj@xxxx wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Not having played with this type of injection system before I'm
not sure
> of what I'm looking at concerning how the fuel injectors are
supposed to
> work.
>
> I've finally gotten around to hooking the fuel lines back up on
#4337.
> Long story short, from what I can deduce and from what I've been
told from
> previous owners (#2 and #3, I'm #4), the car sat around with water
> throughout its fuel lines for the better part of ten years.
> Suffice it to say a lot of parts have been replaced.
>
> Using kerosene (less explosive fumes to contend with), I unhooked
the
> fuel pump and wired a 12V battery across it (happen to be more
convenient
> at the time than bypassing via the fuse box, etc.) and watched for
what
> kind of crud came through.
>
> Then came the check for leaks around the distributor, etc.
> Mostly out of curiosity, I pulled two injectors out and ran the pump
again.
> Both injectors emitted a thin stream (not a spray) of fluid.
> Just to test the injectors themselves I went ahead and pressed down
on the
> airflow sensor and got a nice spray pattern (yeah, I know the
catalytic is
> probably going to love me for that).
> I was lead to believe that with the airflow sensor completely closed
(as in
> the case with the engine not running) no fuel should make it's way
to the
> injectors. Is this true?
> Is the distributor supposed to allow raw fuel into the intake or is
there a
> problem stemming from either of the following:
> 1) Central fuel plunger valve (sorry, don't know the correct name
for it)
> in the fuel distributor is bad?
> 2) The 12V battery I used couldn't work the pump up to around 65psi
thereby
> not charging the system with enough fuel pressure for the plunger
and other
> associated components to function properly?
> 3) Fuel filter was significantly plugged up to restrict fuel flow
thereby
> yielding the same problem(s) as in #2)?
>
> I apologize if this turns out to be a relatively basic question.
> I only get to work on the car on weekends and didn't give myself
enough
> time to experiment on my own (getting fuel pressure readings, etc).
> I figured I'd ask the group during the week to fuel myself with more
> information to work with this coming weekend.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> Louis
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:00:37 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
Hello Louis,
having water in the gas for 10 years is probably the worst thing i can think
of to have to deal with as far as the fuel system goes. this is so stupid
because if there's water in it, all you have to do is siphon the tank, clean
it out, put fresh gas in and add that water break-up stuff, and you should be
ok. why anyone would just let the car sit is beyond me..... but anyway.
let's see if i can help....
In a message dated 10/30/01 6:09:44 PM Central Standard Time,
jugeauj@xxxxxxxx writes:
> I was lead to believe that with the airflow sensor completely closed (as in
> the case with the engine not running) no fuel should make it's way to the
> injectors. Is this true?
this is true. as far as the '2 drops per second' rule, that's what the
average injector will leak into the cylinders with the plate closed. however
this is for the average worn injector. if you have brand new injectors
(which is a MUST with rusty fuel parts!!), they should not leak at all. if
you haven't replaced them, do it now.
> Is the distributor supposed to allow raw fuel into the intake or is there a
> problem stemming from either of the following:
> 1) Central fuel plunger valve (sorry, don't know the correct name for it)
> in the fuel distributor is bad?
i think the name for it is the fuel distributer regulator pin, but it doesn't
matter. this could be a problem if you haven't had the fuel distributer
cleaned by a pro or just replaced it. you see, the pin fits into the
distributer so well that when you try to pull it out, it creates vacuum
inside the orifice. that's how well-machined the distributer is. the pin
and distributer are a matched pair at the factory - you cannot buy a new pin.
if it is chipped or corroded, you need a new distributer - $1000 new.
(gulp). it's possible that the pin has been corroded by rust and it's now
leaking your fuel to the injectors when it shouldn't be. this isn't too
tough to verify - just time consuming. if you haven't done it yet, remove
all the lines from your fuel distributer and unscrew the top three screws
which secure it to the air meter housing. CAREFULLY lift it off the housing
- the pin just rests in there and you aren't careful it will slip out and
fall down into your engine bay or something. then you're pretty much screwed
because if the pin even gets scratched or takes a tiny chip, it's probably
done for. take the dist off the housing and inspect the pin. look into all
the holes that go into the distributer and look for wear or rust. carefully
remove the primary pressure regulator and check that for wear and rust. you
may have a damaged distributer.
> 2) The 12V battery I used couldn't work the pump up to around 65psi thereby
> not charging the system with enough fuel pressure for the plunger and other
> associated components to function properly?
i would advise against doing this. you will destroy the pump if you run it
without sucking gas for even a second. the gas is the lubrication for the
pump! i have done it myself by jumping it with a battery to see if my old
one worked it not. it didn't after that! also, the sparks from the jumper
cables could blow up the pump with all the vapors in there! Bosch told me
that the fuel pump is capable of producing around 7 bar of fuel pressure, but
a lot of that gets returned to the tank. you can only test fuel pressure
with a K-Jetronic fuel pressure tester between the distributer and control
pressure regulator as described in the shop manual. your system pressure
(primary) should lie around 4.8-5.4 bar.
3) Fuel filter was significantly plugged up to restrict fuel flow thereby
>
this is easily diagnosed - just replace it, if you haven't already!
water in the gas for a long period of time is the worst thing that can happen
to your fuel system. you seriously must replace EVERYTHING if in doubt. if
you have found rust in your banjo fittings, your injectors, or in the main
metal fuel lines, you have to replace stuff. that includes - draining and
cleaning fuel tank, replacing fuel accumulator, fuel filter, distributer,
CPR, cold start valve, injectors, fuel pump, and probably every fitting in
there too. VERY $$$. when working on the fuel system, you better buy a
K-Jetronic fuel injection pressure tester. i recommend buying one from
Tool-Aid.com. only $89 including both primary and control pressure readings,
all the fittings needed, instructions, and a durable plastic case. sweet
deal!
good luck,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 05:02:08 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Tire Pressure
I have noticed how many drivers do not pay enough attention to their
tires and tire pressure in general not only on Deloreans but all cars
in general. It is critically important to NEVER drive on underinflated
tires. It is much safer to drive on an overinflated tire than an
underinflated one. Tires lose approx 1 psi for every 10 degrees drop
in temperature. Tires also lose about 1 psi per month. At this time of
the year with temps dropping 20-30 degrees in a couple of months the
tire is 5-6 psi underinflated. This causes unsafe handling, increased
tire wear, and increased fuel consumption. Tires should be checked at
least monthly with once a week or before any long trip the best
advice. Tire pressure should be checked in the morning before driving
as driving heats the tire and increases the pressure. (Don't check a
hot tire and let air out.) Use a quality tire gauge that costs more
than a buck! Always follow manufacturers recomendations, there should
always be a label on the car with the tire information regarding size,
pressure, and load range. On the Delorean the front is 23 psi the rear
30 and the spare (don't forget it) 60 psi. The tire label is in the
glove box on the inside of the door. While you are looking at the tire
look at the sides for bulges and the tread for depth comparing it to
the tread indicators and eveness of wear. On the Delorean we can't
rotate the tires like on most cars so you want to catch uneven wear
before you ruin the tires. Use valve caps to keep dirt out of the
valves. If you feel vibrations at highway speeds with your foot off
the brake get the wheels balanced to reduce wear. Use a good quality
tire cleaner with U V protection to keep the tires looking good and
longer lasting. This is good advice for any car you or your family
drives.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 23:49:55 -0500
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Strange click
As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one in. Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along with a 20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC (where the potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed this steady click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens about every 5-10 seconds and sounds just like the click that the turn signal gives. Anyone think this is important, or is my paranoia getting to me again?
Scott
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:50:34 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: MJ Fox, Rob Grady & Bob Zilla
In a message dated 10/30/2001 1:56:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< It's sad that Michael J. Fox is fighting Parkinson's. It's a very
positive thing that Bob Zilla and Rob Grady, in concert, decided to do
something to help. >>
I agree with Les, Rob Grady & Bob Zilla are some awesome guys! I want all
of you to stop and think for a moment how much the THREE of theses guys have
added to your enjoyment to the DeLorean car. It's high time we honor their
cause as a community and get the wheels rolling.
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 23:33:23 -0500
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wet floor
Cameron;
I had the same problem on my passenger side footwell. Turns out it was one of the sealing screws inside the vent. If you have the service bulletins, it tells all about water leaks and the most frequent places they occur. A little bit of silicone sealent did the trick.
Scott
16738
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 23:43:58 -0500
From: "Michael Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Up to date styling?
The question as to whether the styling of the DeLorean has held up or not
has come up on the list from time to time. I actually created a web page
about a year ago that shows some of the things that were "new and different"
in 1982, as well as the styling of some cars that were developed about the
same time as the DeLorean (late 70's to early 80's).
The page is available at http://www.babbtechnology.com/time/index.htm. Check
it out, then you be the judge as to whether the styling has held up or not!
Cheers!
MICHAEL C. BABB
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:23:37 -0000
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
If your fuel system is damaged to the point of having to replace the
fuel distributor it would make a lot of sense to replace the CIS
entirely with EFI ... unless your a purist or a councourse
enthusiast. Fuel distributors are expensive and getting hard to find,
plus cannot be reliablly rebuilt. Once converted, and you're doing
most of the work right now, EFI will be a lot easier to maintain and
live with in general.
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:26:54 -0000
From: stephen@xxxxxxxx
Subject: New photos of Sunstar's BTTF DeLorean now online
BTTF.com recently received a batch of photos from Sunstar of the new
upcoming 1:18 scale BTTF DeLorean coming out in December, and they're
now posted for viewing at http://www.BTTF.com/backtalk/ along with
some other upcoming DeLorean collectibles.
-- Stephen @ BTTF.com
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:52:59 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: unusual speedo failure
This could be a bad idea. Many mechanical systems are designed with a
"fuse" type element in them so that a "disposeable" part fails
protecting more expensive or delicate parts in the system. This
plastic cap is probably designed to fail in the event the speedo cable
jams or the angle drive fails. If you had a fuse that keeps blowing
you wouldn't stick a piece of wire in instead would you? This is
analogous to what you propose. As often happens people focus on the
symptom without concern for the root cause or the total design of a
system. If you look at most speedo drives they are driven by a plastic
gear. This is done for two reasons, they are cheap to change if you
want different ratios but more importantly they will strip out in the
event of a jam-up.
David Teitelbaum
vi 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Walt and group. What if I had a metal cap made with extra beef /
metal where
> the cable installs. I have a machine shop that loves specials. They
just
> turned me 60 small pullys for the alternators for $5.00 ea. My
original
> source had dried up, so it was either turn them or get out of the
alternator
> business. Now the other source buy's from me.
> What does the group think. New metal caps.
> John Hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 17:06:07 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange click
One way to narrrow down the source of the noise would be to pull fuses
one at a time and see which one causes the noise to stop. Now you at
least have an idea were to look. Be very suspicous of any wiring that
is not origional to the car. Many time I have seen things that were
added improperly causing all kinds of weird problems. The only way to
start was to tear it all out by the roots and if I had any
documentation try to reinstall correctly. Burglar alarms in particular
can give you fits especially if they are tied into the ignition or
starting systems. They can interconnect many systems like lights,
horn, ignition, starting etc. When they malfunction you wouldn't
believe the trouble they can cause!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxx> wrote:
>
> As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of
paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one in.
Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along with a
20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC (where the
potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed this steady
click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens about every 5-10
seconds and sounds just like the click that the turn signal gives.
Anyone think this is important, or is my paranoia getting to me again?
>
> Scott
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:02:16 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Strange click
Dodgy intermittent wiper relay? Sounds like that and comes from there....
Just realised today that a) I HAD an intermittent setting and b) how to turn it on, and then off afterwards....
Martin
#1458 - should be running tomorrow
S CAGLE wrote:
>
> As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one in. Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along with a 20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC (where the potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed this steady click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens about every 5-10 seconds and sounds just like the click that the turn signal gives. Anyone think this is important, or is my paranoia getting to me again?
>
> Scott
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:27:22 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange click
You might want to check out the Lambda counter that is installed just
above the clutch pedal. It has a little gear drive in it that may be
the source of the click. You can disconnect the speedo cable from the
counter, and drive the car. If the click goes away, the counter has
apparently developed a "hitch in its get along". If it doesn't go
away, then the source of the click is something else. How's that for
a scientific conclusion?
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxx> wrote:
>
> As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of
paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one in.
Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along with a
20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC (where the
potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed this steady
click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens about every 5-10
seconds and sounds just like the click that the turn signal gives.
Anyone think this is important, or is my paranoia getting to me again?
>
> Scott
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:43:37 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Lights (again)
Alright guys, my brake lights still don't work. I took them apart and
looked at them closely. It appears that the previous owner tried soldering
the bulb sockets back to the board, because every socket has a little piece
of solder on it. It is safe to rule that out as a possibility? Where else
could i look for the solution?
Thanks
Willie Mack
Vin 5043
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 09:54:29 -0800
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: unusual speedo failure
John,
REALLY BAD IDEA.
The nylon dust shield is only a $15 piece and is available from all the usual sources. If
the angle drive seizes and the shaft 'drills' the dust shield (turning the square hole
round), this is a safety feature. There is always the possibility of being able to clean
and lubricate the angle drive and salvage it. With a metal cap, you are guaranteed of
destroying the angle drive and facing a $240 replacement.
Hank Breer
dherv10@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Walt and group. What if I had a metal cap made with extra beef / metal where
> the cable installs. I have a machine shop that loves specials. They just
> <snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 18:25:17 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: front brake rotor replacement
The dust shields are positioned to prevent the flow of air from the
underside of the car, out towards the wheels. That is how the shields
are supposed to help keep the wheels clean. I may be incorrect in my
view of the situation, but anything that is designed to reduce or
eliminate airflow in any direction cannot be good for enhancing
cooling.
As an aside to Walt, I read the follow-on message with more
information about his pulsation, and I will offer the following idea.
The fore/aft location of the front suspension lower control arm is set
by the connection with the front anti-sway bar. If there is any wear
or damage to the components in this connection, the alignment of the
front wheels becomes "variable" depending on loading conditions on the
wheel. If you detach the front anti-sway bar from its saddle clamps,
and then detach it from the lower control arm at the threaded ends
where it connects with the lower control arm, you can remove and
inspect the rubber bushings that define that connection. Experience
has shown that the bushings will be compressed, with cracks in the
rubber, and you will see more damage on the aft bushings. These take
all the pounding during braking. The bushings are cheap, and easy to
replace. You will have to get another alignment after this
replacement, but it should hold better. I fabricated urethane
bushings for my car, and am enjoying "rock solid" performance from my
suspension.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 10/30/01 8:50:24 PM Central Standard Time,
> tobyp@xxxx writes:
>
>
> > . I removed the dust
> > shields to allow free flow of air through the area to enhance
cooling.
> > I installed new pads (Metalux brand) that run about 200 - 250
degrees
> >
>
> i thought the dust shields had a second function - to DIRECT air
onto the
> brakes for cooling????
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 12:01:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Throttle sticking - I think
Well I've been trying to pin this one down for a little while. The
situation is that when i drive around for a little while, my throttle
appears to stick and I idle at around 1500 RPM. The throttle spool appears
to return fully, but it's not until I push down on the arm (the one that
trips the idle microswitch) that it drops down to about 900 RPM (where
it's set to idle). I adjusted the screw that trips the microswitch, but
that doesn't seem to be the problem. When idling high, I've taken a dowel
and triped the microswitch without disturbing the arm. No difference. But
then when I press the arm down, the idle drops to 900.
Is there something else that that arm is tripping? Something else that
needs to be adjusted?
Happy Halloween!
-Christian
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:28:41 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
In a message dated 10/31/01 11:28:36 AM Central Standard Time, jwit6@xxxxxx
writes:
> If your fuel system is damaged to the point of having to replace the
> fuel distributor it would make a lot of sense to replace the CIS
>
you've been talking about this quite a bit lately.
can you tell me what the approximate cost is in parts in order to do this,
minus labor charges? just the parts price please.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 00:26:35 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
If the engine is off and you are just running the fuel pump you
should get NO fuel from the injectors. When you press down on the
airflow sensor you should see a stream of fuel spray out. If your CO
is off or the air flow meter is binding (slightly down, stuck open a
little) this would explain why you are getting fuel from the
injectors when the engine is Off and the fuel pump is running and
the air flow meter is not pressed down. Check that the plate on the
airflow meter is centered (page D:01:16, 3rd bullet under "Mixture
Control Unit"). Make sure it has the required clearence from the air
meter housing opening otherwise it will not close fully.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jugeauj@xxxx wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Not having played with this type of injection system before I'm
not sure
> of what I'm looking at concerning how the fuel injectors are
supposed to
> work.
>
> I've finally gotten around to hooking the fuel lines back up on
#4337.
> Long story short, from what I can deduce and from what I've been
told from
> previous owners (#2 and #3, I'm #4), the car sat around with water
> throughout its fuel lines for the better part of ten years.
> Suffice it to say a lot of parts have been replaced.
>
> Using kerosene (less explosive fumes to contend with), I
unhooked the
> fuel pump and wired a 12V battery across it (happen to be more
convenient
> at the time than bypassing via the fuse box, etc.) and watched for
what
> kind of crud came through.
>
> Then came the check for leaks around the distributor, etc.
> Mostly out of curiosity, I pulled two injectors out and ran the
pump again.
> Both injectors emitted a thin stream (not a spray) of fluid.
> Just to test the injectors themselves I went ahead and pressed
down on the
> airflow sensor and got a nice spray pattern (yeah, I know the
catalytic is
> probably going to love me for that).
> I was lead to believe that with the airflow sensor completely
closed (as in
> the case with the engine not running) no fuel should make it's way
to the
> injectors. Is this true?
> Is the distributor supposed to allow raw fuel into the intake or
is there a
> problem stemming from either of the following:
> 1) Central fuel plunger valve (sorry, don't know the correct name
for it)
> in the fuel distributor is bad?
> 2) The 12V battery I used couldn't work the pump up to around
65psi thereby
> not charging the system with enough fuel pressure for the plunger
and other
> associated components to function properly?
> 3) Fuel filter was significantly plugged up to restrict fuel flow
thereby
> yielding the same problem(s) as in #2)?
>
> I apologize if this turns out to be a relatively basic question.
> I only get to work on the car on weekends and didn't give myself
enough
> time to experiment on my own (getting fuel pressure readings, etc).
> I figured I'd ask the group during the week to fuel myself with
more
> information to work with this coming weekend.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> Louis
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:14:46 -0500
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Strange click
It may be an inertia switch from a burglar alarm.
Bill Buckner
Instrumentation Supervisor
Electrical and Instrument Dept.
Pfizer, Inc.
Global Manufacturing
Holland, MI Facility
% Phone: 616-392-2375 x-2449
* Fax: 616-392-8267
* Email: william.buckner@xxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 12:06 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Strange click
One way to narrrow down the source of the noise would be to pull fuses
one at a time and see which one causes the noise to stop. Now you at
least have an idea were to look. Be very suspicous of any wiring that
is not origional to the car. Many time I have seen things that were
added improperly causing all kinds of weird problems. The only way to
start was to tear it all out by the roots and if I had any
documentation try to reinstall correctly. Burglar alarms in particular
can give you fits especially if they are tied into the ignition or
starting systems. They can interconnect many systems like lights,
horn, ignition, starting etc. When they malfunction you wouldn't
believe the trouble they can cause!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxx> wrote:
>
> As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of
paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one in.
Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along with a
20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC (where the
potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed this steady
click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens about every 5-10
seconds and sounds just like the click that the turn signal gives.
Anyone think this is important, or is my paranoia getting to me again?
>
> Scott
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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