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There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re.Re. Striker Pin Modification
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. WAS airbox performance, reengineering for high preformance
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
3. Re: Re: putrid exhaust, imperfect idle
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
4. looking for the door tool...
From: "carteblanche" <carteblanche@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: airbox performance numbers
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
6. Lamps, Lights and Bulbs . . .
From: "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: State Farm Insurance
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Quadrant top plate
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Re: airbox performance
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Dash Lights
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
11. Re: water pump/ advice
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
12. UK Car Meeting..NEC.
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
13. NEC MK2!!!
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Dash Lights
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Dash Lights
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: airbox performance
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re.Re. Striker Pin Modification
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
18. LED Tail lights DO work well.
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
19. convex mirrors for sale
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: LED Tail lights DO work well.
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Lamps, Lights and Bulbs . . .
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
22. Help with Buying a DeLorean in L.A.
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
23. Krylon Black paint
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Wanted: Motorola 90 Amp Alternator
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:31:31 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re.Re. Striker Pin Modification
Hi,
My doors also shut a bit on the piss & with a clunk, I took out the
stiker pin cut it off at the stem and welded the pin back onto the
thread off centre. This allowed me to put the pin higher than
previously possible and now the doors shut easily and in line with
the fron and rear panels.
Just an option which saves having to adjust the door hinges.
Regads
James RG
England
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:42:28 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: WAS airbox performance, reengineering for high preformance
Some of the car enthusiast magazines write a story about new airbox/free
flow filters from time to time. The numbers indicate a very modest 3-4hp
gain. However it isn't at the axle it's at the flywheel.
Remember that Kayo Ong of NYC had a high performance maker of exhausts,
fabricate a "free flow exhaust and filter assembly" After spend the $$$
(thousands of dollars) he put the stock DeLorean parts & muffler back on.
The only car that I have driven that "felt free at revs" was when I drove
Rob Grady's BRG DeLorean.
If you trying to do burn outs in a DeLorean...forget about it. Even the
Countach will not do a burn out. The gears in both of the DMC and Countach
are too tall.
The only real effective way to make the DeLorean in to a high performance
beast is to follow what the Pantera owners are doing...totally reengineering
the car, from the ground up. Brakes, trans., engine, body structure upgrades,
cooling, electrical, tires, rims, etc., etc., etc. Only the shape is original.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:48:24 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: putrid exhaust, imperfect idle
In a message dated 10/11/01 11:17:09 AM Central Daylight Time,
srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Another tell-tale sign that anti freeze is leaking into the
> combustion chamber and being burned: The exhaust will have a
> distinct smell to it. It will have a "sweet" sorta smell.
>
>
Well, today i looked at my exhaust after a good warm up and it's clear but i
can still smell it. it doesn't smell sweet, it just just smells super greasy
or thick or something. i can't describe it. but my antifreeze hasn't dropped
at all and i can only see my exhaust right on start up when the car is cold.
anyway, i will still get it checked for the presence of antifreeze.
andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 22:33:42 +0200
From: "carteblanche" <carteblanche@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: looking for the door tool...
hello everybody,
I own my DMC since 8 years in FRance (we are 10 owners) and I am looking for the tool that can be use to tune the tension spring of each door at the back of the car. Some says it is a 16/9 6pans tools. Does anyone knows it ?
Thanks
Cyril
VIN 1708
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 17:48:57 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: airbox performance numbers
Hello All - This is my first post to the DML, although I've owned my
"D" for over 13 years (VIN 2248). In response to this thread ...
there is a K&N airfilter element that works just fine in the stock
airbox. The panel filter element is a little short, but can be
snugged up with a length on vacuum hose used as a spacer. I've had
this in my car for almost a year. K&N filters have virtually no
restriction, and are very effective at cleaning the incoming air.
The throttle response improvement is noticeable. The part number is
NM33-2002. Just a thought for those that want to do things right ...
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jtrealty@xxxx wrote:
> Actually I don't think the pantyhose will cause any harm as if it
> gets caught it will just melt and burn up. A piece of screen might
> be a better idea as it will also act as a flame arrestor . . .
[moderator snip]
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 14:08:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lamps, Lights and Bulbs . . .
I was thinking...
What if you wired in some Varad Hyper LEDs in place of
the bulbs?
www.varad.com
They are "hyper" bright, come in several colors, last
a long time and I think they draw less current.
I was also contemplating a clear tail lamp lense
design to make the rear of the car look more
uniform...for those who like to modify...
I'd take the rear black lens panel off, fill in the
honey comb design or sand it down so its flush. Then
I'd cut the honey-combing out of the lense area and
make a template of the stock lens on a piece of clear
arcrylic lens from Home Depot, cut the stock lens
front off and glue the clear portion in place.
Then using either colored bulbs or LEDs, put them in
place of the clear, stock bulbs.
=====
Dan G.
87 Turbo Regal
http://entremedia.iwarp.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 20:14:17 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: State Farm Insurance
Car insurance rules vary State by State. Their is no rhyme or reason
to it except to say each State can make it's own rules. Also the
insurance companies vary their policies depending on their experience
and loses. The only way someone can compare insurance is within their
own State with another policy holder that has the same experience and
took out a policy at the same time. I have Haggerty and I pay a little
more than others who took out their policies years before me. Anyone
geting a quote now from Haggerty will pay a little more than me. In
some instances an insurance company will refuse new customers but will
continue any policies currently in force. It is their way of forcing
the State to allow them to raise the premiums if the State wants that
carrier to stay in the State. In New Jersey many companies tried that
and the State said they couldn't "pick and choose". Either they
provided all types of coverage or none.
The best advice is to get quotes from as many companies as you can
that offer in your state and pick the one that suits your needs best.
Don't cheat either, if you try to use the car as a daily driver on
limited collector coverage don't be upset if you find yourself with a
loss that isn't covered! Carefully read the disclaimers and
limitations especially regarding mileage, driver age, value,
deductables, and allowed uses. Some companies require an appraisel and
that can cost. Many just want some pictures so they know there really
is a car and it isn't already a total wreak.
Another good source of info is a local car club even if it isn't
Deloreans. The members can give their experiences and recomendations.
At any large car shows there are usually a couple of insurance
companies with stands and they give quotes on the spot. Look in
Hemmings Motor News as all of the big ones advertise in it. Your local
insurance agent that you use for your house or business isn't a good
place to go as this area of insurance is very specialized and since he
will go where you will look he will get what you can find and add his
margin onto it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "marvin" <marv@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently requested State Farm quote on a condo in Florida. I was
advised they are taking no new clients for car or property coverage.
Strange corporate policy in my mind.
>
> Marvin Stein
> #4239
>
> tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
> fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
> email: marv@xxxx
> web: printeddrinkware.com
> Printed Drinkware Company
> 924 Dundas Street
> London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 01:48:48 -0000
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Quadrant top plate
You can follow this link to find the part:
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPage.asp?PageID=63
Nick
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> What is an "quadrant top plate"?
>
> Scott Mueller
> DMCNEWS 002981
> DOA 5031
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nickbrom@xxxx [mailto:nickbrom@a...]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 1:59 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxx
> Subject: [DML] Quadrant top plate
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> On my car (VIN 3092) the quadrant top plate was in pieces when I
> purchased the car.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:25:05 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: airbox performance
Actually,
I suggest some quarter mile runs. The reason why is b/c the difference is
going to be the air flow, which would be hard to define on a dyno. Now, if
you take the car and put the stock airbox back on and do a quarter mile run,
or even a eight mile run, then do the same with the 'new airbox' you would
get an accurate measurement of what was gained. (and you could calculate
and correct for the varing 60 foot times as well to be completely accurate)
Just a thought,
Duke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 4:21 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: airbox performance
. Invest a little more in your invention and
> take your car to a rolling road dyno and run your car with
> the original airbox and your new airbox. .
>
> Mike
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 23:55:32 EDT
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dash Lights
Along the subject of lights, has anyone consider putting in those LED bulbs
in the tail light? They are supposed to be brighter and also draws a lot
less current. I have seen those used on semi-trailers.
Bill Kwan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 04:12:05 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: water pump/ advice
If you think the coolant isn't circulating there are only a couple of
reasons why.
First make sure you have bled ALL of the air out of the water pump.
Check that the bleeder isn't plugged up. If you keep getting air then
you have leaks to fix. Next check the suction hose to the water pump
to be sure it isn't kinked or collapsing under vacuum. Finally there
is the small possability that the thermostat is stuck closed. Easy to
test if you remove it and put it in a pot of water and heat it up. One
of the best indicators of the health of the cooling system is a
pressure test. If it doesn't hold 15 psi for 15 min then you WILL be
replacing all of the hoses and seals and along the way correcting all
of the other things you will inevitably find wrong.
If you can't get anything to come out of the bleeder try bleeding
with the pressure tester attached. If it still won't come out the
bleeder is plugged up inside. Remove the bleeder screw and poke it
clear with a piece of wire or a drill. It is just like a bleeder screw
on the brakes. It is hollow with a hole on the face of the flare
cross-drilled into the hollow. If it has been leaking (because it
wasn't tight) it is all corroded up inside. You can also use the wire
on the spot where the bleeder attaches till you get a good flow. When
you are all done make sure you have a 50/50 mixture of good
anti-freeze and soft water or you will have bigger problems in the
future. The Delorean venders sell a stainless steel bleeder screw that
won't seize or corrode or you can get the auto bleeder kit.
It is very unlikely the impeller has come loose or has corroded off
but is is possible.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxx> wrote:
> I recently found that my machine had totally run out of
water/coolant....
> I filled up the water to full (a few times, as each time I started
the
> machine up the level went down again). Then I put it on level
ground and
> opened the bleeder valve to get the remaining air out... Nothing
came
> out. I'm a little perplexed, becuase I did a bleeding a few months
ago
> and everything seemed to be working fine at that time.
>
> Can I assume that my water pump is not circulating water???
[moderator snip]
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 11:33:58 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: UK Car Meeting..NEC.
Sorry to trouble you,
but I have just realised I have supplied (in our DOC Magazine) the wrong
date for out next big rally / meeting!
It Should have read NEC Birmingham England 17th and 18th Nov.01.
Please amend your diaries!
Yours humbly,
Chris P DOC UK
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:12:15 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: NEC MK2!!!
Sorry, I am cracking up..disregard my last email....the Dates for the Next
NEC ARE 10th / 11th Nov. 2001!!!
Please excuse me.
Chris P HON Sec. DOC UK
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 09:00:37 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Dash Lights
I've mentioned this before, but I have replaced a good portion of my bulbs
with pinball machine bulbs. They are ideal because they are bright and have
a low temp. Since they are designed to operate around sensitive plastic
parts, they have proven to be quite nice. My binnacle illuminates and I can
actually see the instruments! Plus, the bulbs are cheap and come in boxes of
ten, so replacing every bulb is an inexpensive option.
Here's a link for you. Don't click on it becuase it wraps. Make sure you
cut and paste the entire link (it's long):
http://www.marcospec.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=marcos
pec&Category_Code=LAMPS
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> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 04:21:26 -0000
> From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Dash Lights
> Yes, I'm still on that kick. I just put three different
> bulbs on the bench for brightness. The bulbs are the 161,
> 194 and the 2821. The 194 came out ahead. The will all
> work in all the dash light sockets, but the 194 was the
> brightest.
> John
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:09:30 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dash Lights
Unfortunately, as much as I would also like LED tailights, this would
not work for 2 reasons. Reason #1, the LED lamp wouldn't fit through
the openings in the taillight assemblies. And reason #2, the LEDs
shine primarily outward, and not to the side. The taillights get
almost all of thier light from the concaved mirrors in the lenses
reflecting the light coming out of the side of the lamp. If the LEDs
dont shine to the side, there will be almost no reflection and people
would have a hard time seeing the light.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, tonilfhs98@xxxx wrote:
> Along the subject of lights, has anyone consider putting in those
LED bulbs
> in the tail light? They are supposed to be brighter and also draws
a lot
> less current. I have seen those used on semi-trailers.
> Bill Kwan
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 09:51:29 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: airbox performance
I would find this convincing *only* if it were done as a double-blind
study; i.e., do multiple randomized runs in which neither the driver
nor the timer knows which box is installed on each run.
This is standard procedure in medical research, and for good reason:
the human ability to perceive non-existent effects based on the mere
fact that you changed something is astounding.
My car, for example, *always* runs better after I've spent a lot of
money on it. :-).
The advantage of the dyno test is that there is no human in the
loop--neither the dyno nor the car are subject to placebo effects.
--pete lucas
VIN #06703
P.S. -- If you do enough runs, send me the raw data and I would be
glad to do the appropriate tests of statistical significance that
will tell us the likelihood of getting your results by random chance.
At 9:25 PM -0500 10/11/01, at88mph wrote:
>Actually,
>
>I suggest some quarter mile runs. The reason why is b/c the difference is
>going to be the air flow, which would be hard to define on a dyno. Now, if
>you take the car and put the stock airbox back on and do a quarter mile run,
>or even a eight mile run, then do the same with the 'new airbox' you would
>get an accurate measurement of what was gained. (and you could calculate
>and correct for the varing 60 foot times as well to be completely accurate)
>
>
>Just a thought,
>
>Duke
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:56:12 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re.Re. Striker Pin Modification
I don't think this is the best way to fix this problem. If you have an
early car and can't adjust the anchor pin enough to get the door to
close a better way is to enlarge the hole in the fiberglass behind the
pin to allow the pin to move further in the direction you need. If you
want to cover the hole the "D" venders sell a rubber grommet that goes
over the pin. Since you welded your pin it may now be too brittle
because of the heat and it could break off and let the door open. I
suggest you replace it or at least anneal it so it won't break.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My doors also shut a bit on the piss & with a clunk, I took out the
> stiker pin cut it off at the stem and welded the pin back onto the
> thread off centre. This allowed me to put the pin higher than
> previously possible and now the doors shut easily and in line with
> the fron and rear panels.
> Just an option which saves having to adjust the door hinges.
>
> Regads
>
>
> James RG
> England
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 10:26:33 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: LED Tail lights DO work well.
LED's are being sucessfully used in many cases as brake and tail lights. The
new LED's are now brighter than almost all conventional incandescent bulbs
and require no mettalic reflectors. LED's are available in a wide aray of
beam widths from 10 degree narrow to 150 degree wide angle. The best part
about using and LED aray for your tailights is that they have nearly 100%
usefull light because there is no filtereing throught the rear red lens, it
is a red light source. Also, a 100,000 hour life and no heat along with
minimal power consumption are bonuses as well. You can strobe LED's for
emergency use as well.
The new Nicchia LED's are putting out about 15cd of light EACH, try to look
into one.
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:54:00 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: convex mirrors for sale
There as been enough demand for the convex mirrors that I am going to make a
couple every week as I can find some free time. The price for each convex
mirror is $45 + shipping & insurance. I reserve the right to LOWER the
price without notice depending on my cost of materials and how proficient I
become at making them. Grinding the glass without chipping is a slow
free-hand process that takes about an hour from start to finish.
Since demand exceeds supply, I am making a list of reservations. If you
want to be put on this list, then e-mail me privately (not posted to the
DML). whalt@xxxxxxx or whalt(at)att.net As I make the mirrors, then I will
notify the next person on the list as mirrors are available.
To be fair, if you participated in the eBay auction for the first two
mirrors, or if you are one of the handful of people who I have already
discussed making mirrors for, then you will be placed at the top of the
reservations list.
I am also going to start making flat mirrors, as I am sure that there will
be some people who will want quality flat replacement glass for the drivers
side. These will be the same surface-mirror glass as the convex mirrors,
which gives improved color accuracy and less distortion than the OEM glass.
The flat glass takes less time to cut, and the glass I start with is a bit
cheaper, so the price of these will be less than the convex mirrors. I'll
determine the final price once I've made a few of them. But if you are
replacing your mirror glass, I highly recommend the convex over the flat -
even for the drivers side which is status quo in Europe.
If you want more information then e-mail me privately (not to the DML).
whalt@xxxxxxx or whalt(at)att.net I will add you to the reservation list
and answer any questions. Being added to the list does not obligate you in
any way, and the list will be used only for the convex mirror project. When
your name comes up, then I will contact you with the current prices and you
can choose if you want two convex or two flat mirrors or one of each or none
of the above if you change your mind.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 17:25:31 EDT
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: LED Tail lights DO work well.
Has anyone on the list successfully install LED in the tail and brake
lights? It sounds like an ideal modification for our D's since it draws
lower current and are brighter. Isn't that what we want for the brake and
tail lights since ours are notoriously dim and are constantly struggling with
bigger alternator?
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 22:48:20 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lamps, Lights and Bulbs . . .
I've thought about an LED conversion before. As a matter of fact,
there is a DML member here as well who has successfully performed a
conversion on his lights (minus the rear ones). I can't remember the
URL to his home page where the pictures are, but perhaps he can
explain the details of the conversion himself.
I've looked into possible sources for LED's, and have found some that
do cross-over for automotive use. Turn signals for the front and side
marker lights shouldn't be a problem. You could of course use either
a solid state relay to brighten/dim the lights as they flash. Or you
could skip every other lamp, and wire them into a 2nd circuit to
activate when flashing.
In the end, I decided against an LED coversion. I do have legal
concerns about them. Someone could rear-end me, and I could lose a
court case because my car is NOT running DOT approved safety lights
for highway use. Which is the exact same case with clear aftermarket
lenses. When I've seen them for sale, I've never seen a set that
says, "DOT Approved". They mostly say things like, "Check with local
regulations before use.", and "For show purposes/off road use only."
Even on the Lexus SUV's that come with those "Euro-style" tail lamps
where the outer lense is clear, but the housing has individual lenses
inside. Even on these lamps, the inner lenses are coloured. NOT just
the bulbs.
Granted, clear is not my thing (I came close to rear-ending a Honda
Civic one day with clear lenses who had his turn lights wired over to
his brake lights. and they were green at that). I would perfer a
smoke tint to the lenses, with really birght LEDs behind to shine
thru brightly. But in any case, untill someone sells an individual
LED lamp that is specificly DOT approved for extierior safety use in
a vehicle, a conversion is out for me. When you see a vehicle that
has LEDs in use for clearance lights, or a CHMSL, the cluster itself
as a whole is what has been approved for highway use. Not the
individual LEDs that make the light up.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxx> wrote:
> I was thinking...
>
> What if you wired in some Varad Hyper LEDs in place of
> the bulbs?
<SNIP>
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:54:29 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Help with Buying a DeLorean in L.A.
First, a quick thank you to the list members who have helped me in my search,
answered my endless questions and shown me that mainting a DeLorean isn't
going to be too diificult. You all know who you are and I can't thank you
enough.
That said, I have a crazy request for any DMC member in Los Angeles. I live
in Baltimore and am very intereste in a DeLorean for sale in Sherman Oaks,
California. The car is on ebay (I know that is risky) but I have screened
many cars and this one has passed most of my crteria. If anyone could take a
look for me and report back I would be eternally grateful. Maybe a $50 gift
certifcate to the Outback Steakhouse? Anyway email me privately for info.The
auction ends Tuesday so time is not on my side. Thanks again everyone!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:10:51 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Krylon Black paint
Krylon semi-flat black paint is the right color and Krylon does indeed
make excellent paints. As an alternate, try Rustoleum Satin Black. It
used to be called semi-flat black and is the right color also. Goes on
a little smoother and besides spray cans comes in pints and quarts cans
so that you can brush it on. You can thin it if necessary and sort of
"flow" it into place with a small brush. Preparation is the same as for
Krylon or other, I use lacquer thinner in most cases.
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:54:58 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wanted: Motorola 90 Amp Alternator
Mine seems to be erratic, I'd like to try another one before I chase
ground connections etc. If you've pulled a good working unit, perhaps
in order to upgrade to one of the 105s or other, and are willing to sell
your Motorola 90, please e-mail me privately.
Thanks, Les
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