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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Stainless Coolant bottle
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Door Launcher Answers / Bob Zilla
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
3. left fender and qtr panel for sale
From: meester@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. slightly off-tune? what to do?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
From: "Ben Maxwell" <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Erratic wipers
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
7. Will Lexol remove Leather Wrinkles?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Other lighting anamolies
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
9. Craig Radio LCD TROUBLE! and Temperature Guage TROUBLE!
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Craig Radio LCD TROUBLE!
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
From: "G Ryerson" <TRyerson@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Craig Radio LCD TROUBLE! and Temperature Guage TROUBLE!
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. Overheating...
From: "Matthew David" <DMC5524@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Frame repair needed...
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Overheating .. surprise..
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
17. RE: door launchers
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. looking for a hood
From: sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Automatic not shifting proper
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
20. Re: d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Foliage tour....road rally!
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
22. Long Shot...
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: Frame repair needed...
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. RE: d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. RE: Overheating .. surprise..
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 11:53:41 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Coolant bottle
Just got my new bottle from Rob and I'm looking for any advise on
putting it in. It looks very straight forward. The only questions I
have are
1. when you take off the lower hose there will be some coolant loss
coming out of the bottle. Do I suction out as much as I can prior to
removing the lower hose to eliminate it from puring out?
2. Once new bottle is installed I'll refill with coolant, is there are
problem doing this procedure with getting air in the system or is this
change beyond the place where air can get in and cause overheating
problems?
Thanks
Tom
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 09:46:15 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Door Launcher Answers / Bob Zilla
Bob,
Great on the door launchers and you seem to be thinking of everything, so I
assume you will have designed a safety feature of NOT being able to activate
the mechanism, accidentally while driving down the highway at 88 MPH!! I
have a pocketfull of remotes for various purposes and there is one in
particular that gives me fits. One remote hits the other in my pocket and
my garage door sometimes closes when I shove all those remotes in my pocket
at once. So far I have been careful to wait a second before backing out. I
have remotes for starting two cars, plus door lock/unlocks, lights, alarm
systems etc, garage door openers plus ditto for the house bolt locks. Its
ironic that my grandson is always having me "show off" my key chain, which
has NO keys on it any more!
Murray
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 17:24:58 -0000
From: meester@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: left fender and qtr panel for sale
I have for sale a left front fender that is in near perfect
condition, and a left quarter panel that has a golf ball size dent in
it. If anyone is interested please E-mail me privately. I'll
probably throw them out on E-bay, but thought I would give the list
first chance at them. Thanks,
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:59:42 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: slightly off-tune? what to do?
Hey all,
my D's been running quite nicely lately, but there's just one little thing
that could be better, performance-wise. here's the symptoms:
on the coldest of cold starts the engine doesn't seem to have any power for
the first couple of blocks. it won't give any power even though the RPM
gauge shows that the engine speed is increasing, and i can hear it revving
up. but the car doesn't move in proportion to that as it does when it gets
warmed up (after only about 3 blocks). also the first couple of shifts into
2nd gear are jerky because the car isn't moving fast enough so the shift
doesn't "make sense" even though the RPM's are up there. remember - after
about 3 blocks or so (with stop signs at each end of the block), this problem
clears up completely. the next symptom is that no matter how warmed up the
engine is, when accelerating i can hear this nasal-y sound like 'waaah' for
about half a second coming from the engine, especially noticeble in 2nd gear
because it tends to be quieter as far as engine noise than 1st gear. 3rd
gear it doesn't happen too often. when i remove my air cleaner cover and
filter housing i can hear a whistle of air coming through the air meter
plate, it doesn't sound normal. my exhaust smells pretty thick with gas, it
is gray in color when you can see it on cold evenings, and i don't notice any
dark clouds coming out. but it quite putrid smelling. i run 91 octane gas.
finally, i just got my idle microswitch-tripping screw adjusted so that it
always idles at 950 rpm or so when you are in neutral or the clutch is in at
a stop sign or light. the idle fluctuates slightly a few RPM up and down
(even when warmed up so i know it's not still 'seeking') and it doesn't sound
quite 'right'. it doesn't 'purr' perfectly steady i guess is the best way of
saying it. however, the engine never backfires or misfires. it runs like it
should but it doesn't feel like it is in perfect tuning. please note that my
fuel system is more or less brand new. my CO screw was adjusted by a tech at
a local porsche and BMW dealer however at that time i was running 89 octane
if that makes a difference.
any good ideas on what to check? is my CO adjustment just a little bit off?
i hate that thing and would rather not play with it unless that's the
problem. could someone explain if they think i'm too rich or too lean, and
tell me how to adjust it?
thanks!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 18:14:26 -0000
From: "Ben Maxwell" <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
Nick & Group...
That car on ebay is a little strange... anybody notice the funky
panel in the interior shot? Very unnerving, since the guy selling it
says it's all original...
it looks like the original ac vent/radio/climate control panel was
swapped out... the climate controls are completely screwed up... it
looks like a more traditional (aka UGLY) looking vertical/horizontal
slider position assemb. at the bottom of the panel...
also check out the padded defininately not-stock panel from which the
gearshift comes up. Check it out... VERY strange...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=595749357
ben
06979
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 18:33:03 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Erratic wipers
Got caught in the rain last night, and my wipers started acting goofy. Heard
a noise from under the left dash like a squeaking or rubbing sound and the
wipers stopped moving. Then started up again for a few wipes then quit.
Always stopped at the bottom of the wipe, I think. Squeaks came and went. I
tried all three settings: fast, slow and intermittent with the same results.
(BTW, I DO know how the intermittent wipe feature works... :) this was not
it. It would stop for a full minute or two then wipe a few times, then quit.)
I don't recall ever reading anything about this on the list, and my computer
likes to crash when I hop from link to link such as in the DML files. Any
ideas?
Wayne A. Ernst
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 19:20:09 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Will Lexol remove Leather Wrinkles?
My leather is not cracked, but it is dull, and has some wrinkles...will
Lexol tighten up the leather?
I treated my car once about 6 months ago when I got it, and I did it again
tonight. Recently (1 week ago) I noticed more wrinkles on the driver seat.
What is the best course of action?
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 22:13:17 -0000
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
Subject: Other lighting anamolies
Also, in addition to my dash gauge lights suddenly not working and the
AC Panel lights staying on, the right rear tail light has stopped
working. I already have the upgraded circuit boards, have checked the
bulbs, and checked the contacts on to the board.
Also, the front right marker light is out, but I assume that this is
just a bulb issue, but have yet to investigate.
Any suggestions?
Nick
VIN 3092
PS: Previously, the A/C panel lights most definitely turned off when
the headlights were turned on. The did not just dim.
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 14:48:23 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Craig Radio LCD TROUBLE! and Temperature Guage TROUBLE!
Hey all! …
Long time reader .. first time poster :-)
Just got my D in May … been wanting it since I was 8 years old … anyhow
… I have been having some trouble with my “baby”
The LCD screen on my Craig Radio is not displaying properly ..
It was working find up until a couple days ago .. any suggestions to fix
this… if I push the screen somewhat inwards .. as if I was putting a
cassette tape in the deck .. all the lights come on .. but if I let it
go .. some of them turn off ..
My second problem is my temperature gauge .. I have had the small
upgrade done from PJ grady .. that is the new fuses in the fuse box with
the wire connections ..
The temp gauge works on some days .. and just hangs on others ..
tempremental …
Thanks for any help you guys can offer :-)
Kenneth
005541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 01:13:01 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Craig Radio LCD TROUBLE!
Chronic issue. Best thing is to NOT use the tape deck if you want to
preserve the display. The original flex circuit will NOT hold up for
long. Here are some hints on how to fix it if you are electronically
inclined.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/radiodisplay.html
Dave Swingle
PS - it's an LED display.......
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hey all! …
>
>
> The LCD screen on my Craig Radio is not displaying properly ..
>
> It was working find up until a couple days ago .. any suggestions
to fix
> this… if I push the screen somewhat inwards .. as if I was putting a
> cassette tape in the deck .. all the lights come on .. but if I let
it
> go .. some of them turn off ..
>
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 21:07:12 -0400
From: "G Ryerson" <TRyerson@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
Although I'm not all that knowledgeable about the automatic transmission
used in the DeLorean it seems as if that your transmission is probably
slipping when the weather is very cold.
It is conceivable that the fliud is low, or perhaps the wrong type.
Unfortunately some other possibilities are worn clutches / bands or the
control valving.
Hope that all helps,
George Ryerson
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>; <tech@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: [DML] slightly off-tune? what to do?
> Hey all,
>
> my D's been running quite nicely lately, but there's just one little thing
> that could be better, performance-wise. here's the symptoms:
>
> on the coldest of cold starts the engine doesn't seem to have any power
for
> the first couple of blocks. it won't give any power even though the RPM
> gauge shows that the engine speed is increasing, and i can hear it revving
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 21:25:08 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Craig Radio LCD TROUBLE! and Temperature Guage TROUBLE!
Kenneth, There is a couple of us out here that can fix the display. My self
John Hervey in Dallas, and Les out of California. Email me privatly for the
cost. Not to bad.
As far as the temp gauge, what did P.J. Grady say about it or did it just
start. Most likley a loose connection. I don't know what you mean by hangs.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 01:30:18 +0000
From: "Matthew David" <DMC5524@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Overheating...
Dear group,
I have had me DeLorean for almost four years now. Within the last 6 to 9
months I have noticed a particularly irritating habit it has. I drive it
alot of the time, as it is one of my daily drivers. However I seldom take it
on the highway, I mostly just drive stop ang go around the city. Anyway,
when I do drive it at highway speeds it overheats rather quickly. I can
drive surface streets all day, but hit the local bypass and up the gauge
goes. Anybody have any ideas? Someone suggested that maybe at continuous
speeds the water pump is collapsing a hose. Sounds like a long shot but who
knows? Anyway I would like to get it fixed before the holidays as I plan on
traveling with it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
VIN 005524
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 02:06:25 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Frame repair needed...
Since I've picked up my DeLorean I've had a chance to get it on a
lift and look over the entire car and the word is things are pretty
good... mostly. Looks like I need to replace the front part of the
frame, just fore of the front control arms. I'll have a better
opinion after I have the body shop look at it. As is I'm trying not
to drive it and driving it carefully when I asolutely cant help
myself. The front supports for the radiator and sway arms are rusted
along the bottom. The front right is the worst as it had rusted
completely through along the seam. The top and side portions are
very solid so I'm not sure if I can patch it or I should replace the
entire piece. If anyone has a section of frame from the control arms
forward, or including the control arms, pleas contact me off-list as
I would be interested in purchasing it.
Jeff
#10544
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 02:25:31 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Overheating .. surprise..
Since I have had the DeLorean I've experienced the common overheating
woes. The car runs extremely cool most of the time, rarely going
past the second temperature gauge mark. It usually will only begin
to overheat after highway driving and I return to the regular
streets. I've had "spectators" point out that I have antifreeze
running or at times they say "pouring" out the back, and after
driving the fluid is very low and the car is wet around the overflow
hose. It seems that when driving I'm blowing a lot of coolant out
the overflow before the engine begins to overheat. Loss of coolant
seems to be the cause of my overheating instead of the by-product.
I've checked the overflow cap and it vents at or slightly above 15lbs
and will hold fine at pressures below that. I do have the plastic
overflow tank and it appears to be in good shape. I've also
installed the self-bleeding kit to the system. Also there are no
leaks elsewhere in the system (via visual inspection). I have two
suspicions and I'd like some advise:
1) Is it possible/probable that the plastic tank is deformed an not
allowing the cap to seat properly? (Is there a pressure testor that
doesn't use the overflow tank opening to attach?)
2) I have a head gasket leak allowing blow-by to enter the cooling
system at the head. (This wouldn't necessarily show up in a cooling
system pressure test as the cylinder pressure is much higher and the
blow-by may only go one way)
Any help or experience in this area would be appreciated, we all know
how important/fun it is to have a reliable car to drive!
Jeff
#10544
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 03:19:40 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: slightly off-tune? what to do?
I would look at the ignition system (spark plugs and wires) for any
signs of weakness, arcing and voltage breakdown. Assuming you have an
automatic check the line pressure adjustment as per G:05:03. It is
very likely that you have a defective trans filter or low fluid. It is
very bad on the trans to drive it if it is slipping. I would also have
the fuel mixture checked again as per D:04:01-03. Check the trans
fluid as per G:04:02. Don't forget to also check the final drive fluid
level as it is a separate compartment unlike the 5-speed.(G:05:01)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> my D's been running quite nicely lately, but there's just one little
thing
> that could be better, performance-wise. here's the symptoms:
>
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 20:48:37 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: door launchers
> You will also need
> the Lockzilla module and the Zilla remote (200 dollars each). The new
> solenoids work off of existing wiring in the doors, so no new wires will
> need to be added from the electrical compartment to the doors. Rob said
> the the solenoids he's using weight about 3 pounds each and will require a
> slight adjustment to the tortion bars. He's expecting the new Zilla box
> and solenoids and compelete installation instructions to run about 600
> dollars. Of course it'll be another 400 dollars if you don't already have
> the Lockzilla and Remote.
A thousand bucks to get remote door openers and locks??? You've gotta be
kidding. I know the Zilla products are good, and would never knock them.
But for those of you who can't quite afford that, there is already a remote
door opening kit (which includes door unlock) that has been on the market
for years. It adds only ounces of weight per door, not 3 pounds, and does
not require torsion bar adjustment. I'm not sure why Rob/Bob are using
heavier solenoids since I shared my how-to info with them years ago. Maybe
they feel solenoids are more reliable than my actuators, but I have never
had one fail. The kit is easy to install and retails for under $200. Check
out delorean-parts.com or e-mail me for information.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 03:32:02 -0000
From: sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: looking for a hood
does anyone know where a hood with lines and a gas flap is for sale?
if not that lines or a flap?
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 23:34:58 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Automatic not shifting proper
Andy, One thing at a time so the post won't be to long. Automatic
tranmission, cold weather the valve body where all the fluid moves thru may
have some blockage. I had the same problem with another car, not a delorean.
Try this to confirm. When you first crank it up, put the transmission in 1st
and see if it shifts ok by going thru the gears manually, 1st,2nd,3rd. if it
does shift this way, then the valve body needs cleaning and maby new seals
and gaskets inside it. A good transmission man should know this.
John
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 23:57:27 -0400
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
He also says it's an '81, but it has no gas flap. I'm pretty new here, but I
was under the impression that all the 81's had gas flaps.
Joe
Ben Maxwell wrote:
> Nick & Group...
>
> That car on ebay is a little strange... anybody notice the funky
> panel in the interior shot? Very unnerving, since the guy selling it
> says it's all original...
>
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 02:17:41 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Foliage tour....road rally!
Hey List,
Just thought I would send a post to the DML to remind anyone who is in
the NY area that there is a Foliage tour being planned on Long Island by the
one and only Mike De Luca. :) Its scheduled for October 27th - 28th. A
stop by PJ Grady...the Hamptons....and then a road rally on Shelter
island...fun for everyone! Please consider coming to this great event if you
can. This is the second event Mike De Luca has set up, and last years event
was great! Maybe we can get him to make this an annual thing! For details
about the schedule and hotel reservations, please e-mail Mike De Luca
directly.... Turbodmc(at)hotmail.com. Also a little plug for me...this is
going to be my first event WITH my car since I just got it on the road after
doing a complete and I do mean complete frame off restoration. I'll have
plenty of pics to show off too! Thats all for now hope to see a lot of D
owners there!
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:22:23 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Long Shot...
Does anyone happen to have a set of Intercoolers used on the Legend Twin
turbo project?
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:24:44 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Frame repair needed...
This is the crush zone, and should be repaired with care..
Or, you can replace it. PJ Grady sells replacements.
http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=0
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Phillips [mailto:jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 10:06 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Frame repair needed...
Since I've picked up my DeLorean I've had a chance to get it on a
lift and look over the entire car and the word is things are pretty
good... mostly. Looks like I need to replace the front part of the
frame, just fore of the front control arms
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:31:57 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
Late 81's had no gas flap. The hood on Ebay is probably correct, it has
the lines but no flap.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack The Stripper [mailto:motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 11:57 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] d on ebay #595749357 (was a/c panel lites)
He also says it's an '81, but it has no gas flap. I'm pretty new here,
but I
was under the impression that all the 81's had gas flaps.
Joe
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:54:27 -0400
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Overheating .. surprise..
I experience a simmilar problem. My Temp guage will hover right around the
middle mark (the one that is horizontal) and frequently when i get out of
the car I see a few drips comming from the coolant bottle overflow hose.
This is a little discouraging, I know that my temp guage should not be quite
that high, but the car works great, and it is not in the red, so I just let
it be. (I just have to add some antifreeze about 1 every 2 months) and I
have checked both my fans work, and I have the SS coolant bottle with a
brass radiator.
cya
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808
> ----------
> From: Jeff Phillips
> Reply To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 10:25 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Overheating .. surprise..
>
> I've had "spectators" point out that I have antifreeze
> running or at times they say "pouring" out the back, and after
> driving the fluid is very low and the car is wet around the overflow
> hose. It seems that when driving I'm blowing a lot of coolant out
> the
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