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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Bosch oil filters
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Door Launchers
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. BTTF/Halloween Question.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
7. Re: Door Launchers
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Oil Light
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
9. Photos of 2nd annual SEDOC
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
10. Performance intake prototype finished!!
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Oil Light
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. Battery master switch?
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 13:02:16 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
I would like to make a suggestion for you to check out: Since your
catalytic converter has gotten hot enough to glow more than once, perhaps it
has deteriorated internally restricting your exhaust flow. Now you have to
dork with your CO adjustment to compensate for the exhaust back pressure.
You might try taking the cat off to see if you still have the problem. Once
you have it off, look at the webbing in the cat to see if any of it is
melted or broke loose restricting exhaust flow.
Walt Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> I am having some trouble locating the cause of a high idle condition (2000
rpm) and an extremely rich fuel mixture. The mixture is so rich that the
catalytic converter will begin to glow.
<snip>
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 14:39:32 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
Rustproof, How many miles are on the car. Cat's will stop up and
restrict flow. When this happens it will also beging to glow. If the
Air flow and or gas mixture hasn't been kept up correct, then the
cat's can be stopped up. If you do mechanic work, you may want to
pull off the throttle boby and clean out all the gunk that will build
up inside. If the butterflies in the throttle body don't close all
way that too will cause an improper air mixture. David is right about
the Air Flow Meter and it's adjustments. You have to keep these cars
tuned. Theres no one computer to do it. When was the last time the 02
sensor was changed and you say the Lambda System working. Put a can
of Berrymans B12 in the gas and go drive the car. If there is any
varnish in the system, it will desolve it.
John Hervey
http://specialtauto.com/
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> I am having some trouble locating the cause of a high idle
condition (2000 rpm) and an extremely rich fuel mixture. The mixture
is so rich that the catalytic converter will begin to glow. I have
checked the ECU and O2 sensor with an o-scope and find that the
signal and duty cycle are within normal operating parameters. The
frequency valve seems to be operating normaly as well. All of the
extra adjustment screws are seated to allow for the ECU to do its
job. The Idle control air valve seems to be operating OK and is not
sticking. No leaks at the cold start valve. The idle switch is is OK
too. The fuel injectors are all operating with a good spray pattern
and have been checked for equal fuel distribution. I am running out
of ideas. Has anyone run into this sort of thing before? Thanks in
advance for any suggestions you guys may have.....
> Rustproof
> Vin #1559
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 16:12:13 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
I would investigate the cold start system now. It sounds like it is
not functioning as it is what increases the fuel mixture for starting
as opposed to changing the mixture screw. Check the wiring and see if
there is voltage to the cold start valve when the engine is cold
during cranking. Look for broken wires, disconnected plugs etc but it
could be a bad thermo-time switch. Refer to D:04:06 in the workshop
manual.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks guys for your input! (David, Andy and Bruce) I took your
advice and
> investigated all of your suggestions. Through the process of
elimination, I
> have been able to solve the excessive combustion problem ...it seems
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 14:45:18 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Bosch oil filters
Brian, A lot of Bosch numbers have a 0 in front of them for part
number expansion. Some companies tend to drop it. My 2000 Bosch price
sheet still has the 5 digit #. Oil Filter # 72150 is the correct one
to use. I'm sure the Mobil One filter is good, but is it worth trying
if you don't know the specifications for it. The Bosch and others are
proven.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, lovdmc12@xxxx wrote:
> I have the old 5 digit Bosch oil filter numbers that have been
mentioned on
> the list in the past. Has Bosch changed their numbering system. I
went to
> the local Autozone, and all of their filters had a four digit
number. The
> guy told me the numbers had changed. I want to make sure I get the
right
> filter.
>
> Also, they have the Mobil 1 filters. Has anyone ever used one of
these on
> their DeLorean? I know their oil is excellent, but I'm wondering
how good
> their filters are.
>
> Brian
> VIN 1597
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 13:13:20 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Launchers
I seem to remember hearing Rob Grady say that the added weight of the door
launcher solenoid will require the torsion bar to be adjusted up another
notch or so. In order for the system to work flawlessly, everything else
has to be working just right -- the doors should be properly adjusted and
not sticking, the torsion bars shouldn't be over or under torqued, the gas
struts should be of the dampening variety where they don't allow the doors
to bounce at the top end of their travel (unlike the ones currently on my
car.)
Rob's system only uses one solenoid to actuate the door handle. I have
heard of someone rigging up their own launcher, but it used two solenoids --
one for the door handle and a second to give the door a push off the door
sill. The two solenoid method might work better on poorly adjusted doors or
with weak struts. But any extra weight in the door requires that much extra
tension on the torsion bar.
Walt Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <nickbrom@xxxxxxx>
<snip>
>are
> there any alterations that need to be done so they work effectively?
> You know, like over-torquing the doors by a notch?
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 00:45:25 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: BTTF/Halloween Question.
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Since this is pretty borderline, please send responses directly to Robert]
Quick question. Every Halloween we dress up the house for the trick-
or-treaters' that come around. Since this year I'll be home, I was
thinking about doing kind of a Back to the Future theme. I know that
others have dressed up their cars/selves before. So my question is if
anyone can give me any tips on things they've done, ideas for
props/how to build, etc... One idea I've had is to back the car into
my garage, and hook up a 12V source to power my clearance and door
lights (like the casino's use for display cars). I also have a
question about dry ice. Will the fog that it produces hurt the
interior of my car? I was thinking of placing a bucket inside of the
car to let the fog pour out of the doors, but didn't know if there
would be any ill effects.
If anyone has any ideas, feel free to e-mail me directly off of the
list.
Thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 13:44:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Launchers
Rob Grady was at the NCDMC/Bricklin show yesterday and talked about the
Door Launchers. The Grady system will work with another Zilla box in the
electrical compartment, and 1 new solenoid per door. You will also need
the Lockzilla module and the Zilla remote (200 dollars each). The new
solenoids work off of existing wiring in the doors, so no new wires will
need to be added from the electrical compartment to the doors. Rob said
the the solenoids he's using weight about 3 pounds each and will require a
slight adjustment to the tortion bars. He's expecting the new Zilla box
and solenoids and compelete installation instructions to run about 600
dollars. Of course it'll be another 400 dollars if you don't already have
the Lockzilla and Remote.
If you've dealt with Bob Zilla or Rob Grady before, you know that every
penny you spend is a penny that they both stand behind. I'm certainly
going to pick up the kit. I believe he said that he's expecting it to
be ready in a month or two.
Stephen Wynne, Don Steger, and Rob Grady all agree that in the next year
we're all going to see a lot of new, extremely cool products come into the
DeLorean world.
-Christian
On Sun, 23 Sep 2001 nickbrom@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I was wondering if there was any projected price on the door
> launchers, and if there was a "for sure" release date yet. Also, are
> there any alterations that need to be done so they work effectively?
> You know, like over-torquing the doors by a notch?
>
> Nick
> VIN 3092
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Brian Henderlong" <bhender1@xxxx> wrote:
> > I was lucky enough to see PJ Grady's door launchers in action at
> the SEDOC
> > Cruise-In last weekend in Gainesville, GA, and yes, they are
> really, REALLY
> > neat! Several of the SEDOC members got to try them out personally;
> perhaps
> > one of them will give their impressions. The "both-doors-at-once"
> feature
> > is MOST impressive. The launchers certainly seem to work as
> advertised.
> >
> > - Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
> > - http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <njp548@xxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 11:21 AM
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Extra/unused wires in doors
> >
> >
> > > Why don't you get just get Lockzilla, the remote reciever and
> then wait
> > > another month or so til PJ Grady has the door launchers available?
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 23:22:27 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Oil Light
Is the oil light supposed to come on when the key is turned to run?
John Yeoman
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:53:06 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Photos of 2nd annual SEDOC
I finally put a site together that has the photos I took of the 2nd annual
SEDOC cruise-in. I'm certainly no HTML genius, so if you want to do a
better job, then you certainly have my permission to copy these photos to
your own site.
http://home.att.net/~whalt/index.html
That's the link. Let me know what you think.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 21:52:16 +0200
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Performance intake prototype finished!!
You will all be glad to hear that I have finished the prototype intake I was working on for Deloreans. I will have the pictures on my website soon enough and will keep you all posted as to my progress. As for the intake, I was instantly amazed at how much better to motor was able to breath. The car now was much more willing to rev and felt so much better. The motor is much less choked off and I have found that the car is way faster! For all you techy kinda guys I will have graphs and calculations on flow on my website too. Anyway as far as the intake, I am really proud of myself on this one, it looks great, doesn't require any other mods, it is oh so trick, and works even better. I should be able to start producing them soon if you all want one, but I don't really care if you do cause if you don't you can just watch my tail lights fade! :)
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 00:22:02 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
Thanks for all of your responses! But still, I am up the creek.
The car has only 4900 miles on it and it has been completely restored with
the frame off. It is in pristine condition in and out. The cat is brand new
and clean as a whistle. I removed the original cat that was overheated
(twice) about a week ago. It was clean as well but I had planned on putting
in a new exhaust system anyway for appearance sake. The entire exhaust
system is also new. The throttle body butterfly moves freely and closes
completely. This engine is absolutely clean with a completely new fuel
system. Tank, lines, pump, filter, fuel distributor, the works. No varnish
anywhere. I can find no vacuum leaks. The O2 sensor was replaced a day or
so ago. Signal from the ECU seems to be OK and the Idle control valve is
functioning with a normal duty cycle. (except during cold startup when the
sensor is ignored by the ECU prior to 350 degrees warm-up sampling) The
thermo-time switch seems to be doing it's thing. When the CO mix screw is
set so the engine runs at 950 rpm at idle, there is no overheat condition.
When this baby is set to idle at 950, there couldn't be a sweeter running
engine. (no exaggeration) Smooth, VERY powerful and responsive.
Unfortunately, once I shut it off.....it doesn't want to restart. Today I
will tear out the cold start valve and see what might be awry in
there...Stay tuned.
Rustproof
vin 1559
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:37:28 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil Light
yes,
John hervey
============
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Date: Sun Sep 23, 2001 6:22 pm
Subject: Oil Light
Is the oil light supposed to come on when the key is turned to run?
John Yeoman
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:30:01 -0000
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Battery master switch?
Hi All,
Hope everyone is enjoying the final weeks of good weather driving!
After reading that poor fellow who lost his car due to a meltdown, I
started thinking about a battery master switch again. Does anyone
have any suggestions for a cut-off unit with a remote switch of some
sort? I do not care if I lose my radio station programming :-)
I though I saw a unit that will cut the battery supply VIA a remote
toggle switch that could be located anywhere in the car. That sounds
good but I can't remember where I saw that.
Any other suggestions? I just can't see myself with a wrench
unbolting the positive every time I finish driving it! Anyone know of
any adverse effects for repeated battery dissconnecting?
Thanks!
Tyler
#3472
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