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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Parts cross reference
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Extra/unused wires in doors
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Extra/unused wires in doors
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
6. Re: finding freon leaks
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. RE: Parts cross reference
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. "Deloreans" magazine
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: finding freon leaks
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Dead speedo and hard shifting
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. binnicle removal
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:07:49 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts cross reference
Ebay item #595683957
Is this something put out by DMC? What could possibly be special about this
list as opposed to the ones online?
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:55:04 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
In a message dated 9/21/01 9:35:49 AM Central Daylight Time,
Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions you guys may have.....
> Rustproof
> Vin #1559
>
Just something else to check -
go to the fuel pump and make sure neither of your three lines are kinked, and
make sure the pump is seated straight up and down. i can't tell you the
number of times a kinked line or something else stupid at the fuel pump have
messed up how my car runs!!! everything from no-start, to hesitation, to
super-rich combustion.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:17:13 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
Check that the air sensor (the plate in the air mixture unit) is
centered and not rubbing. Make sure there is a plug over the mixture
screw. After checking these 2 things the trouble might be a fuel
mixture way out of adjustment. The adjusting screw is VERY sensitive.
A little bit of a turn affects the mixture a lot. It can only really
be adjusted with the proper equipment. Also check that there are no
obstructions in the air intake box and the filter isn't totally
plugged up. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks and no cylinders are
misfiring. Finaly ou might have to do a compression test to locate the
"dead" cylinder.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> I am having some trouble locating the cause of a high idle condition
(2000 rpm) and an extremely rich fuel mixture. The mixture is so rich
that the catalytic converter will begin to glow. I have checked the
ECU and O2 sensor with an o-scope and find that the signal and duty
cycle are within normal operating parameters. The frequency valve
seems to be operating normaly as well. All of the extra adjustment
screws are seated to allow for the ECU to do its job. The Idle control
air valve seems to be operating OK and is not sticking. No leaks at
the cold start valve. The idle switch is is OK too. The fuel injectors
are all operating with a good spray pattern and have been checked for
equal fuel distribution. I am running out of ideas. Has anyone run
into this sort of thing before? Thanks in advance for any suggestions
you guys may have.....
> Rustproof
> Vin #1559
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:21:23 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Extra/unused wires in doors
In a message dated 9/20/01 10:58:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I am installing a door-launcher this weekend and would be REALLY
happy if I didn't have to run more wires. >>
Hey Mark,
Why don't you get just get Lockzilla, the remote reciever and then wait
another month or so til PJ Grady has the door launchers available? With the
use of just one keyless transmitter, you can lock, unlock your doors, pop the
trunk and launch the drivers door, or both doors. And the great thing about
their door launcher kit, is that its all plug in play, NO additional wires to
run at all. The kit just plugs into the De Loreans wiring connections. I'm
sure if you give Rob Grady a call he can tell you more about it.
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:46:13 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Extra/unused wires in doors
In a message dated 9/20/01 9:59:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Does anyone know if there are extra/unused wires in the doors? I have
> seen several in there that don't look like they're being used. Can
>
hey Mark,
yes there are some unused wires. i believe some of them were originally
going to be for heated side mirrors - that's what some of us have speculated
in the past. check to see if they have power in them or not!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:41:13 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks
The symptoms of my leak is that the a/c was first working fine. Then I let
the car sit for nearly 3 weeks while I took my time replacing the trailing
arm bolts and the front springs & shocks. After that my a/c compressor
wouldn't kick on. I put a gauge on the low side and read 45 psi which
according to the manual should be at least 60 psi. So I put a 24oz can of
freon in there. This brought the static pressure up to around 75 psi. I
since drove the car to the SEDOC cruise in (about a 7 hour trip) and the a/c
worked good, but I was driving at night. The compressor would stay on
continuously at idle and cycle at 3 to 4 second intervals at higher RPMs. I
didn't know enough about a/c systems to know if I had too much Freon in
there or not enough. DMC Joe helped me out. He put a gauge on there and
watched it cycle and said that it was still too low. The manual doesn't
explain how to top off a low system. Instead it just says to suck it all
out and start over. That is fine if you have freon recovery equipment
handy. But most of us don't. Joe explained that a properly charged system
should cycle on for 7 seconds and rest for 4 seconds at 2000 RPMs. He said
to add just enough R-12 or Freeze-12 to the system until it starts cycling
at this rate.
On the way home, the a/c just wasn't keeping up with the sun load, so I put
most of another can in there. I have never had much luck getting gas out of
one of those cans without using a heat gun to boil it out. I ended up
sticking the can over the exhaust for a while to keep it warm. This got
enough freon in there to keep me cold the rest of the way home. When I got
home, I used a heat gun to get the rest of the freon out of the can and into
the system. Those cans leak a lot after you open them, so I figured I might
as well dump it in rather than waste it. Now the compressor cycles at
around 9 to 13 seconds at 2000 RPMs, so I figure I have too much gas in
there.
Now I'm not really sure if I have a leak. I understand that leaving a car
sit for as little as a week will allow the compressor seal to dry out enough
to start leaking. Now newer cars will run the compressor for 20 seconds or
so every time you start the car to keep the seal lubricated in case you
never run the a/c.
Since last night, I learned a lot about how freon sniffers work. The first
one I bought yesterday was defective. It had already been out of the
package and fooled with by someone else. After a while it totally glitched
up and wouldn't do anything but beep wildly. Before it was sensitive to
temperature changes (hence triggering when putting it up my shirt sleeve.
The new one ignores my smelly arm pits.) I have learned, however, that
these sniffers are sensitive to fuel odors, so that is why I was getting a
positive reading around the fuel tank. I don't have any remarkable leaks
there, but these units are very sensitive to such things. I can't explain
the positive reading I was getting from the condensate drain with the old
sniffer. But the new sniffer doesn't detect anything there. I was getting
a reading off of a bend in the rubber hose at the frame going to the
accumulator, but not now. Perhaps it only leaks from this hose (the high
side) after the a/c has been running a while. Or maybe I was picking up a
fuel odor.
Thank you all for your suggestions so far. I will consider the dye as a
last resort. I don't want to put it in there unless I really have to. I
don't think my Schrader valves are leaking. I removed the brass caps and
got a positive reading, but then I also got a positive reading on the same
spots on my 3 year old truck which hasn't been touched since it left the
factory. I blew the area clean with shop air and didn't get a reading
afterwards. I got a spray bottle of soapy water, so I'll use that along the
hoses to confirm any leaks. I hate to go to the trouble to replace those
lines, but if that's what it takes then I don't have a choice.
I'll keep y'all posted as this story unfolds.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 13:38:12 -0400
From: "Bob & Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Parts cross reference
to the DML and Travis...
Lets clear this up before it becomes a problem.....
It is our own Cross reference list.. of parts and part numbers for the
Delorean that we have put together... , that you can buy on your own.. IF
you know how to work on your car... it is nothing from DMC...
don't make it out to be more than it is...
It is simply a cross over list of parts that will fit your car... IF you can
find them.....A lot of the parts stores do not carry old items, anymore....
all depends on your auto part store in your area....
if you have more question please email privately....
Travis if you need more info .. please email me....
Vicky
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:20:54 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: "Deloreans" magazine
Has anyone subscribed to the "Deloreans" magazine yet?? have you
received your copy and is it worht the subscription? I'm sure it is,
but was just wondering what others thought. I'm going to subscribe
right now.
erik
4512
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:52:09 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks
Walt,
i too have a freon leak, except mine is confirmed and it seems to be quite
massive! i had an A/C shop put neon dye in the freon and pretty much my
entire A/C system leaks. my flexible hoses between the body and frame seem
to be sweating freon while most of my Schrader valves leak as well as the
condensor and evaporator. not cool at all, especially the high $$$ of
replacement of all this stuff.
if anyone has any tips on replacing the long hoses WITHOUT seperating the
frame from the body, please let me know!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:05:52
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dead speedo and hard shifting
Mike,
If the whole speedometer is inoperable meaning the needle and the odometer,
than it is the cable or the angle drive unit. If it's just the needle there
is probably a problem in the speedometer itself.
Good Luck!
Ryan.
>From: "Mike Allred" <mallred@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Dead speedo and hard shifting
>Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 11:26:12 -0700
>
>I have two problems; 1- speedometer just stopped working, the needle just
>doesn't work. 2- Manual transmission is hard to get into gear when it gets
>hot. When cold it shifts just fine.
>
>Can anyone shed any light on my problem.
>
>Mike
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
>
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 17:12:34 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: binnicle removal
I laughed reading the instructions about getting hit dead centre on the head when the screws/washers fall out while you are upside down under the dash. It's true - they do find the target. However, not mentioned, was putting them back in. I used a very tiny bit of plastacine between the screw and washers, but a little gum will also hold everything in place while upside down.
Marv.
#4239
Marvin Stein
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
web: printeddrinkware.com
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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