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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Steering Problem
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Where is this valve??
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Luggage rack parts needed
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
7. Extra/unused wires in doors
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
8. finding freon leaks
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: finding freon leaks
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: finding freon leaks
From: sharksigns@xxxxxxxxx
11. RE: steering column u-joints
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
13. binnacle (instrument cluster pod) removal
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
14. Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: finding freon leaks
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Bosch oil filters
From: lovdmc12@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Extra/unused wires in doors
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 11:28:03 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Steering Problem
In a message dated 9/20/01 10:24:49 AM Central Daylight Time,
jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> This is the main reason the car needs to be flatbeded but if the car
> is pulled onto the flatbed by the lower control arms the damage is
> done. On some forgein cars there are big stickers underneath
> indicating where to attach or not attach the recovery hooks. Maybe
> this would be a good idea for the Delorean vendors to produce?
> David Teitelbaum
>
i don't get why tow truck guys would attach their cables to the lower control
arms when they could attach them to the conveniently provided hooks in all
four corners of the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:57:22 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
Well, I've had some experience with this. First off, DO NOT try to
pull it out with a screw extractor. I had a head break off of one of
my y-pipe bolts this spring. I knew it wasn't seiezed in the engine
block, (it was siezed on the y-pipe) so I yanked the y-pipe off and
proceeded to drill into the bolt. I then put a screw extractor in
there thinking it would simply screw out with this, I was dead
wrong. The remains of the bolt didn't want to turn this time, and
broke the screw extractor inside of it. Since this was made of
HARDENDED steel, it took me TWO MONTHS to eventually drill, grind,
swear, whatnot all the way through it. Once I finally got it out, I
just decided to re-tap the hole with the next larger thread size. I
was in a rush though. You may want to try a heli-coil or a thread
restorer kit (never used either one though). In any case, you are
going to need to drill out the bolts in the engine block. Good luck.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, rorx2000@xxxx wrote:
> Hello, everyone I need some ideas on how to fix this if possiable.
> I wanted to change the o-rings on the coolant Y-pipe under the
intake
> manifold. One nut broke and the other's head is stripped really
bad.
> I can't get a socket or vise grips on it. anyone have any ideas
that
> may help.
>
>
> Rory
> Vin#3010
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:11:26 +0100
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
Dont use an easy out what ever you do. Try drilling them out are re tapping
the block but be careful. You may have to run a die over the new bolt too.
The bolt has 6.8 stamped on it. I would recomend replacing the metal heater
return pipe (Volvo part!) and the 2 hoses which run into the back of the
water pump with silicon hoses from PJ Grady while you are in there.
Chris
Vin 16327
----- Original Message From: <rorx2000@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: [DML] Coolant Y- pipe problem
> Hello, everyone I need some ideas on how to fix this if possiable.
> I wanted to change the o-rings on the coolant Y-pipe under the intake
> manifold. One nut broke and the other's head is stripped really bad.
> I can't get a socket or vise grips on it. anyone have any ideas that
> may help.
>
>
> Rory
> Vin#3010
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:10:14 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
A little hint.
To have a broken "easy out" removed easily, find a shop that has an EDM.
The EDM process can burn the hardened steel out with little or no damage to
the surrounding area. I had to have an "easy out" removed from the head on
my '72 Capri back in the early 80's.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Reeve [mailto:ultra@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 1:57 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
Well, I've had some experience with this. First off, DO NOT try to
pull it out with a screw extractor. I had a head break off of one of
my y-pipe bolts this spring.
The remains of the bolt didn't want to turn this time, and
broke the screw extractor inside of it. Since this was made of
HARDENDED steel, it took me TWO MONTHS to eventually drill, grind,
swear, whatnot all the way through it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:09:03 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Where is this valve??
Eric, If you will look on my web site www.specialtauto.com under engine about
3/4 of the way down on the right side of the page, you will see a picture of
the internal engine under the intake manifold. Click on it to enlarge.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:51:22 EDT
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Luggage rack parts needed
Group,
I have acquired a luggage rack for my D, but it is missing a few
pieces. The rest of it is in great shape. I need all four mounting brackets
that bolt to the louvers. I also need one of the "sliding tubular pieces" on
the front/back of the rack. I don't know which end goes where, but only one
end of it has the tubular pieces that actually can be removed from the rack.
My luggage rack is missing one of them. If anyone knows where I can acquire
these parts, please let me know. Thank you all for your time.
Regards,
Darren Decker
VIN 5000
NC lic: 1981 DMC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 22:34:36 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Extra/unused wires in doors
Does anyone know if there are extra/unused wires in the doors? I have
seen several in there that don't look like they're being used. Can
anyone identify them?:
1) A 2-conductor connector next to the power window connector. It has
2 green/white wires in one side, and a black wire in the other.
2) A single yellow/white wire in a female butt-connector next to the
window motor
3) Two yellow/white wires going into a single female butt-connector
in the middle(height)-rear section of the door.
I am installing a door-launcher this weekend and would be REALLY
happy if I didn't have to run more wires.
Any help is always much appreciated!
Thanks,
Mark
#10901
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:04:15 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: finding freon leaks
I am trying to locate a leak in my a/c system and am having some trouble
doing it. I just bought a leak sniffer from NAPA and put it to work. So
far I seem to be finding a high concentration of CFCs between the frame and
the fuel tank near the point where the flexible fuel lines meet the metal
fuel lines. On the highest setting, the sensor beeps looking into the
condensate drain line, but then it also beeps looking up my shirt sleeve.
(Are my armpits THAT hazardous to the ozone layer?)
My theory is that freon is leaking through the condensate drain line or
coming somewhere off the evaporator near the 'fire wall' and collecting in
the low spot on the frame. Can anyone give some words of wisdom on how to
proceed from here? I don't see any greasy spots from leaking refrigerant
oil. Should I try to pull the tape/insulation surrounding the evaporator
pipes via access through the spare tire panel, or should I attack it through
the passenger foot well? I tried sniffing through the rubber hose on the
a/c blower and don't find any CFCs there.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 04:06:21 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks
If you are as unlucky as me the discharge hose from the compressor to
the condensor has popped. There are tiny holes all along the hose and
the freon will come out all along it's length. Use nitrogen and soapy
water and you will find the leak. The hose can be replaced without
removing the body from the frame but you will have to bend the frame
flange a little bit to pass the end through. Also replace the service
(shrader) valve cores, and evacuate the system for at least 1/2 hour.
If it has been "down" a long time you should replace the dryer too. It
is best to stay with R-12 if possible. I have used sniffers and I find
they get desensitized by large leaks, I prefer to see the leak with my
own eyes. Sniffers are of no use if the motor or fans are running as
the air is moving too fast. Another alternative is to add a leak
detector dye.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I am trying to locate a leak in my a/c system and am having some
trouble
> doing it. I just bought a leak sniffer from NAPA and put it to
work. So
> far I seem to be finding a high concentration of CFCs between the
frame and
> the fuel tank near the point where the flexible fuel lines meet the
metal
> fuel lines. On the highest setting, the sensor beeps looking into
the
> condensate drain line, but then it also beeps looking up my shirt
sleeve.
> (Are my armpits THAT hazardous to the ozone layer?)
>
> My theory is that freon is leaking through the condensate drain line
or
> coming somewhere off the evaporator near the 'fire wall' and
collecting in
> the low spot on the frame. Can anyone give some words of wisdom on
how to
> proceed from here? I don't see any greasy spots from leaking
refrigerant
> oil. Should I try to pull the tape/insulation surrounding the
evaporator
> pipes via access through the spare tire panel, or should I attack it
through
> the passenger foot well? I tried sniffing through the rubber hose
on the
> a/c blower and don't find any CFCs there.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 09:02:56 -0000
From: sharksigns@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks
Walt,
Your local mechanic may have a new leak detector that uses
fluorescent dye which would give you a nice visual of where the leak
may be hiding. It seems to work fine where other detection systems
have failed. Hope this helps.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I am trying to locate a leak in my a/c system and am having some
trouble
> doing it. I just bought a leak sniffer from NAPA and put it to
work. So
> far I seem to be finding a high concentration of CFCs between the
frame and
> the fuel tank near the point where the flexible fuel lines meet the
metal
> fuel lines. On the highest setting, the sensor beeps looking into
the
> condensate drain line, but then it also beeps looking up my shirt
sleeve.
> (Are my armpits THAT hazardous to the ozone layer?)
>
> My theory is that freon is leaking through the condensate drain
line or
> coming somewhere off the evaporator near the 'fire wall' and
collecting in
> the low spot on the frame. Can anyone give some words of wisdom on
how to
> proceed from here? I don't see any greasy spots from leaking
refrigerant
> oil. Should I try to pull the tape/insulation surrounding the
evaporator
> pipes via access through the spare tire panel, or should I attack
it through
> the passenger foot well? I tried sniffing through the rubber hose
on the
> a/c blower and don't find any CFCs there.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:21:24 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: steering column u-joints
Jack - I believe I am the only DeLorean parts vendor marketing an improved
steering u-joint assembly. It consists of two u-joints, an intermediate
shaft, and installation instructions. Quality is race car spec. Cost is
$240 plus shipping. Let me know if you are interested. I thought it was
pictured on my web page, but guess I forgot to add it and am overdue to do
so. Installation is not too difficult, but sometimes it takes a little
effort to get the old u-joints off the shafts.
I'm cc-ing this to the list because it is a somewhat unusual request and
maybe others are needing the same.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 04:12:51 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Coolant Y- pipe problem
You could try heating up the head and tapping it with a hammer to
break it loose. Be prepared for it to break off and you will have to
drill it out and probably put a thread insert into the block to repair
the threads. This is not for the faint of heart as it is difficult to
drill out a steel bolt in an aluminum block. You must stay centered in
the bolt and not drift off into the softer aluminum. I have seen
people drill and tap the bolt head and put a bolt into that to remove
the bolt with a damaged head. In this case I don't think that is a
good approach but welding a nut onto it may work.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, rorx2000@xxxx wrote:
> Hello, everyone I need some ideas on how to fix this if possiable.
> I wanted to change the o-rings on the coolant Y-pipe under the
intake
> manifold. One nut broke and the other's head is stripped really bad.
> I can't get a socket or vise grips on it. anyone have any ideas that
> may help.
>
>
> Rory
> Vin#3010
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 00:27:59 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: binnacle (instrument cluster pod) removal
In a message dated 9/14/01 7:38:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> On page M:10:02, it says to refer to section P for removal of the instrument
> cluster. I've been over section P and still can't find it. Can anyone give
> me a page number so I can verify the page exists.
I don't see it either. Another void in the original manuals. For anyone
else who needs it, here's the procedure from Travis Graham's web page:
> from: http://www.delorean.org/tgraham/projects.htm
>
> Binnacle Removal (Revised Version)
> Author: Travis Graham
> Level of difficulty: relatively easy
> Equipment needed: 10mm and 7mm sockets and wrenches, 1 phillips-head
> screwdriver.
> Procedure:
> 1) Remove the two driver's side knee pads with the 10mm socket. (There are
> 8 nuts total)
> 2) Lay in the floorboard and use the 7mm socket to remove the four nuts
> that secure the binnacle to the dash. Also, try to keep up with the larger
> washers that will fall and hit you square in the face while you are
> working. You may find an extension for the socket driver to be helpful in
> reaching the two nuts that are closest to the seat, there are some
> strategically-placed metal parts obstructing the path.
> 3) Lift up on the binnacle, but be careful with the trip meter! It can be
> broken easily, especially if you are removing the instrument cluster. The
> electrical connectors remove easily, and the speedo cable pops right off...
> 4) The instrument cluster is held into the binnacle by use of four
> oddly-placed black screws. Use the screw driver to get to them and then you
> can pull the instrument cluster out.
> 5) Everything should go back together just like when it all came off. Just
> keep your fingers crossed that everything works when you reassemble it, or
> you may become much too familiar with the binnacle removal procedure after
> you do it again!
>
Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 01:13:31 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rich Fuel mix with High Idle
I am having some trouble locating the cause of a high idle condition (2000 rpm) and an extremely rich fuel mixture. The mixture is so rich that the catalytic converter will begin to glow. I have checked the ECU and O2 sensor with an o-scope and find that the signal and duty cycle are within normal operating parameters. The frequency valve seems to be operating normaly as well. All of the extra adjustment screws are seated to allow for the ECU to do its job. The Idle control air valve seems to be operating OK and is not sticking. No leaks at the cold start valve. The idle switch is is OK too. The fuel injectors are all operating with a good spray pattern and have been checked for equal fuel distribution. I am running out of ideas. Has anyone run into this sort of thing before? Thanks in advance for any suggestions you guys may have.....
Rustproof
Vin #1559
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 22:25:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: finding freon leaks
Walt,
I recently had my A/C serviced. The guy who recharged the A/C put some
blacklight sensitive dye in along with the freon. That way if I have any
leaks in the future I can just use a blacklight in a dim garage to find
the leaks.
-Christian
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Walter wrote:
> I am trying to locate a leak in my a/c system and am having some trouble
> doing it. I just bought a leak sniffer from NAPA and put it to work. So
> far I seem to be finding a high concentration of CFCs between the frame and
> the fuel tank near the point where the flexible fuel lines meet the metal
> fuel lines. On the highest setting, the sensor beeps looking into the
> condensate drain line, but then it also beeps looking up my shirt sleeve.
> (Are my armpits THAT hazardous to the ozone layer?)
>
> My theory is that freon is leaking through the condensate drain line or
> coming somewhere off the evaporator near the 'fire wall' and collecting in
> the low spot on the frame. Can anyone give some words of wisdom on how to
> proceed from here? I don't see any greasy spots from leaking refrigerant
> oil. Should I try to pull the tape/insulation surrounding the evaporator
> pipes via access through the spare tire panel, or should I attack it through
> the passenger foot well? I tried sniffing through the rubber hose on the
> a/c blower and don't find any CFCs there.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:40:55 EDT
From: lovdmc12@xxxxxxx
Subject: Bosch oil filters
I have the old 5 digit Bosch oil filter numbers that have been mentioned on
the list in the past. Has Bosch changed their numbering system. I went to
the local Autozone, and all of their filters had a four digit number. The
guy told me the numbers had changed. I want to make sure I get the right
filter.
Also, they have the Mobil 1 filters. Has anyone ever used one of these on
their DeLorean? I know their oil is excellent, but I'm wondering how good
their filters are.
Brian
VIN 1597
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 09:09:16 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Extra/unused wires in doors
There is definitely an unused wire that you can use for your
launchers. My memory of the details has faded, but I'm pretty sure it
is the single yellow/white wire that you mentioned.
The bad news is that this wire will only get you as far as the
junction box in the center of the roof under the T-panel. It goes
into the connector from the door to the roof harness, but you will
discover that its mating pin is missing and there is no spare wire in
the roof harness.
Here's what you have to do:
1) Remove the T-panel.
2) Remove the metal plate that covers the roof junction box. It is
glued in place with black sealant. Just pry it up.
3) Remove the rear headliner piece (I can't remember if you also need
to remove the center T-shaped headliner).
4) Locate the rectangular rubber bung inside the vehicle where the
harness enters the cabin. You need to get two more wires through
this bung somehow. I think I just squeezed them in, but I forget.
5) Fish the two wires along the roof, following the path of the
existing harness until you get the wires into the junction box in the
roof.
6) Remove the missing bullet connector pins from the connector for
each door and connect your new wires to them using a suitable
connector.
7) Run the other end of the wires via the route of your choice to the
relays for the door launchers (I put mine in the area under the
luggage shelf behind the driver's seat).
8) Wire it up and begin impressing your friends.
All of this is a medium hassle, but at least you don't have to have a
new wire showing at your door hinge. And your friends really will be
impressed.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
At 10:34 PM +0000 9/20/01, mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>Does anyone know if there are extra/unused wires in the doors? I have
>seen several in there that don't look like they're being used. Can
>anyone identify them?:
>
>1) A 2-conductor connector next to the power window connector. It has
>2 green/white wires in one side, and a black wire in the other.
>
>2) A single yellow/white wire in a female butt-connector next to the
>window motor
>
>3) Two yellow/white wires going into a single female butt-connector
>in the middle(height)-rear section of the door.
>
>I am installing a door-launcher this weekend and would be REALLY
>happy if I didn't have to run more wires.
>
>Any help is always much appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>Mark
>#10901
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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