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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: VIN plate
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
2. getting close
From: "Cohee, Michael" <mcohee@xxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: Re: Attention customers of HAGERTY and GRUNDY
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Viruses from Cameron
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
5. Instrument Cluster removal
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Exhaust Tips
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
7. Re: getting close
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. PJ Grady suspension vs. USA DMC suspension
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: VIN plate
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
10. Jammed Driver Side Door
From: "G Ryerson" <TRyerson@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. "Garage/Trailer Queen" wanted
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
12. Re: PJ Grady suspension vs. USA DMC suspension
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. my roof cage is rusting!
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
14. Insurance Costs in Colorado
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 14:41:59 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN plate
Evan,
is it the vin plate that fits in the door opening ? If so We may have a
"new" blank one spare.
If its the long one near the windshield , then we can't help.
Best regards Chris P DOC UK chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx
----- Original Message -----
From: "evan" <autotec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2001 11:28 AM
Subject: [DML] VIN plate
> Hi guys, just after some specifications on the vin plate for the chassis.
My frame was very badly rusted & the vin plate was missing except for about
the last 1/2 inch.
> my car is vin 2672. I was wondering if anyone had a picture & the
dimensions of the plate & style/size of the print so I can have one
constructed.
> thanks alot, Evan from Oz.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 10:33:18 -0400
From: "Cohee, Michael" <mcohee@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: getting close
I am very close to getting my Delorean and want to thank all the great
responces I have received from my questions. I think I speak for all recent
Delorean owners when I say this list convinced us that you can own a
Delorean and have a resource to help mainain it. My question is: I read
somewhere on the site what someone would do first when they buy their car. I
think it was an old post by a list member and it said something like. "the
first thing to do is change all relays, , fuses, fluids, etc."
If someone would tell me if they recall seeing that psot or what they would
do. It seems most people want new relays, fuses, switches, clean wiring,
zillas, reinforce trunk latch wire... etc. I want to learn how to work on
this car and I would like a checklist of what people would do first to make
the car a safe daily driver as funds allow.
thanks
mike c
vin# to follow
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 09:49:21 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Attention customers of HAGERTY and GRUNDY
Scott,
The issue is what is covered when you have a special insurance policy
for collector automobiles. The reduced cost policies are VERY
restrictive as to how you can use your car.
My comment was to say that a number of DML members use and recommend
those insurance companies and have stated on many occasions that their
use is not restricted.
I just wanted to warn them that they may have a problem collecting on a
claim in the underwriter decided the car was not being used for it's
intended purpose (and driving it to work is specifically stated as
MISUSE of a collector vehicle).
-----Original Message-----
From: scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx [mailto:scott-c-arnold@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 9:41 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Attention customers of HAGERTY and GRUNDY
I have yet to pick up my first DeLorean, so I have no idea what
Hagerty and Grundy are all about. However, for those who are
scratching their heads on insurance, here is how I believe it works.
Feel free to debate if you think I am wrong.
<SNIP>
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 10:55:49 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Viruses from Cameron
(Moderator's note: Consider this subject retired.)
I'm expecting a moderator to kill this tread.
Yes, I understand what you all are saying is true. I got my virus as an
indirect of using the DML (not from the DML itself)... I should have been
more clear. Cameron tried to send me an attachment directly (bypassing the
DML), and a virus in his computer substituted his attachment for the virus
file. Like a dummy I tried to open it even though I didn't recognize the
.pif file extension. The pernicious thing about this is it found a loop
hole such that Windows cuts off *.pif file extensions when viewing
directories. That made the attachment that was really
Fileattachment.DOC.pif to appear to be Fileattachment.DOC.
There is no chance of getting a virus from receiving messages from the DML.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 14:28:14 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Instrument Cluster removal
On page M:10:02, it says to refer to section P for removal of the instrument
cluster. I've been over section P and still can't find it. Can anyone give
me a page number so I can verify the page exists. I was able to remove the
cluster myself, but my speedometer face got messed up (which I am looking
for a new one if you anyone has one to sell!)
Travis
#3512
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 13:28:26 EDT
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Exhaust Tips
I am assuming you have an early model DeLorean where you have two skinny pipes for the exhaust. I agree witht he previous post about the melting of the plastic with large exhaust tips on it. My suggestion is to try and get the exhaust tips that came on later model DeLoreans. I have an 83 and love the stock crome exhaust tips that are on it.
JimmyC
VIN#15880
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 12:14:22 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: getting close
DMC News page, Technical section, newbie files, good coverage by Dave.
"Cohee, Michael" wrote:
> I am very close to getting my Delorean and want to thank all the great
> responces I have received from my questions. I think I speak for all recent
> Delorean owners when I say this list convinced us that you can own a
> Delorean and have a resource to help mainain it. My question is: I read
> somewhere on the site what someone would do first when they buy their car. I
> think it was an old post by a list member and it said something like. "the
> first thing to do is change all relays, , fuses, fluids, etc."
>
> If someone would tell me if they recall seeing that psot or what they would
> do.
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 20:40:10 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: PJ Grady suspension vs. USA DMC suspension
I would like to greatly improve my handling as well as lower the car
(to make it look 'natural').
I am having a difficult time deciding which setup to go with.
I have 4 brand new original shocks (Girling Decarbon?) sitting in a
box I got with the car.
What should I do?
The PJ Grady front springs along with my new shocks?
The entire PJ Grady setup?
The 4 DMC springs along with my new shocks?
The entire DMC shock/spring suspension upgrade? (I can't afford this
one!)
Has anyone had the ability to try more than one of these setups and
can tell me what differences they found between them?
From reading dmcnews, I have definitely decided not to cut & swap.
Thank you very much for any help!
A 4-day old VERY happy new owner!
#10901
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 17:52:29 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: VIN plate
In a message dated 9/14/01 7:48:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
autotec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> My frame was very badly rusted & the vin plate was missing except for about
> the last 1/2 inch.
> my car is vin 2672. I was wondering if anyone had a picture & the
> dimensions of the plate & style/size of the print so I can have one
> constructed.
>
I'm not sure if it's legal to do that, better check in your local
jurisdiction. BTW, there are a few NOS blanks floating around out there. You
might wanrt to ask on the DML. (What about it, Bob Miller?)
-Wayne
vin 11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 20:02:24 -0400
From: "G Ryerson" <TRyerson@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Jammed Driver Side Door
I've got a serious problem and am hoping that someone out there can offer a
suggestion or two.
Two weeks ago my son decided to show our '83 to a young lady, and both sat
inside for a few minutes. After leaving the car they of course closed the
doors.
The following Saturday morning I thought it would be nice to take the car
our for a spin as I do almost every Saturday morning. At this point I
discovered that the driver door could not be opened. Close inspection
revealed that the front door latch was not engaged properly and the front of
the door was bowed out about a half inch. The rear latch was indeed latched.
After fiddling with the key in the door lock and ensuring that the door was
indeed unlocked, I tried to open the door with the outside release handle:
wouldn't open. I then reached in through the open ( fortunately ) driver
side window and tried the inside release handle: again no success. It seemed
as if the release mechanism was not connected to either release handle.
I then removed the lower trim pad ( Manual 8/7/1, index # 7 ) to get at some
of the inner working. After fooling with things, disconnecting several
linkage rods, and spending a lot of time trying to view the rear latch with
mirrors and small flashlights, I still am absolutely stumped on how the get
the door open. The release rod going to the rear latch moves completely
freely, but is indeed connected to the release lever on the latch. The
"lock" rod, on the other hand, seems to be binding even when disconnected
from the actuating solenoid.
I'd sure appreciate all suggestions about this problem !
George Ryerson
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 20:52:45 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: "Garage/Trailer Queen" wanted
Cash buyer.
I am looking for a trailer queen/ "concourse" car...Wanted low mileage (under
500 miles) ORIGINAL DeLorean Wanted. Any year. Car must be in ORIGINAL
condition.
If you have knowledge of such a DeLorean please email or contact me.
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 04:05:28 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PJ Grady suspension vs. USA DMC suspension
Mark:
You're not gonna like this, but you really need to take the
Girling/deCarbon shocks out to your garage and drop them in the large
container that goes out to the street once a week. They are the bad
part, NOT the springs. Changing the springs alone will lower the car,
but the ride will still be hard. Those OEM shocks are that bad. If
you are going thru the trouble to take the suspension apart, change
the shocks.
I have driven both the DMC Houston and the Mid-States (Marty Maier)
setups, they are comparable to each other (for moderate street
driving, I have not attempted racing) and a vast improvement over the
original. I have not had a chance to drive a car with Grady's but
reviews are similar.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, mark@xxxx wrote:
> I would like to greatly improve my handling as well as lower the
car
> (to make it look 'natural').
>
> I am having a difficult time deciding which setup to go with.
>
> I have 4 brand new original shocks (Girling Decarbon?) sitting in a
> box I got with the car.
>
> What should I do?
>
> The PJ Grady front springs along with my new shocks?
> The entire PJ Grady setup?
> The 4 DMC springs along with my new shocks?
> The entire DMC shock/spring suspension upgrade? (I can't afford
this
> one!)
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 05:46:41 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: my roof cage is rusting!
I haven't seen many people on the list with this problem, but
unfortunately I am one with it.
I was setting out to adjust my t-panel because my driver side door
was hitting it a little. When I had the door opened, I looked under
the t-bar and noticed that there was a piece of metal that goes from
one hinge to the other, along the edge of the door. This piece of
metal was apparently, at one time, glued down to the body. Well, this
piece is now lifted up off of the body and rusted quite badly. So
much that if I press it down, I can hear the 'crunch' of the rust
underneath it. The hinges look fine, although they have a little
surface rust on them.
From what it looks like, this piece of metal is actually a large
piece that goes across the center of the roof and drops down on
either side where the hinges bolt through it to the body. There is
also another (at least I think it is a different one) metal section
along the 'top part of the T' section where the t-bars are adjusted
(along the back part of the roof). This piece has no rust on it. I am
HOPING that these are two separate pieces so I can take out the one
that goes between the doors that is rusted, and fabricate a new one
like Brandon Moody had done. However, I can't tell if these are two
separate pieces or not. I don't think I would be able to copy the
back piece. There are just too many creases and bends in it.
Can someone shed some light on this for me? Who has been through
this? What is the best solution? What does it involve? I would hate
for the rust to cause part of the door system to fail and cause
damage to the body or doors as a result.
I have digital pictures if someone would like to see them.
Thank you all for any help you can give me. I want my D to be perfect!
Mark Cook
#10901
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 06:05:43 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Insurance Costs in Colorado
FYI:
I just purchased my first D. I live in Colorado, and with Farmers
Insurance, I have been quoted $500 every 6 months for insurance. Due
to the rarity of the car, the lowest deductible I could get is $1,000
PLUS 10% of any damage. This is full coverage, with $100 glass
deductible.
I'm not too happy about the $1,000 + 10%, but they said I have no
other option.
This includes multiple-car and homeowners discounts.
Funny thing: At first after I told her it was a DeLorean, she said
she had no idea what that was, put me on hold for a few minutes, then
came back and said that someone else in the company has to deal with
it because it is worth over $80,000. Someone at her office told her
it was a Lamborghini! I promptly corrected her...
Mark
#10901
oh, and by the way...is anyone interested in actually MAKING a Flux
Capacitor? I've only had the car a week, but I've been asked at least
10 times where it is. Wouldn't it be nice if we could just open the
door and point, "it's right there behind the seats..." It would be
nice to see a jaw or two drop once in a while :) I guess it's just
one of the 'pluses' to owning one of these unique machines!
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