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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Items on eBay.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
2. More on the Mystery Electrical Gremlin (Grrrrrrr!)
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
3. Re: My Clutch - Part II
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
4. Re: Voltage Drop and Clicking Sound
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: missing logo and vin#
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Bigger Problem - Clutch
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Re: "Cavepaintings" and dates in behind (above) headliners...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Miniature Lamps
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Cruise-In Program Update
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Fuse question
From: johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx
11. Re: Winner of the Gold DeLorean
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Used window regulators on ebay
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: BMW Eurofest, NC Owners and idle stall
From: jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
14. Gas cap rust...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
15. used cats for sale
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:42:02 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Items on eBay.
Quick question/request. When posting about items on eBay, could it be
possible to post the item # rather than the link? When getting the
DML Digest, YahooGroups sometimes cuts off part of the URL. And when
you attempt to paste both sections of the link, it hardley ever
works. But if we have the item #, a quick search for the item will
find it MUCH quicker. Plus this will help if your advertising an item
that you have for sale!
Thanks!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 01:41:38 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: More on the Mystery Electrical Gremlin (Grrrrrrr!)
Since posting about my problem, I've recieved 4 replys (I had to
telnet into my mail server to read my e-mail), with 4 seperate
answers. All appear to make sense, so I will naturally check all
points out. However, this has lead me to ask some new questions.
1.> Electrical short in the CPR heater.
This seems obvious, and shouldn't be too much of a problem to remedy.
2.> Fuel Pump going bad.
While the pump is supposed to be new, I do realize that things do of
course go bad. So my question here is how do I check how much current
the pump is drawing, vs. what is considered normal?
3.> Puctured wiring harness.
Something new I've never heard of, but does sound logical. So, here
my question is of course how do I inspect/access the harness to
repair/prevent this from happening again? I currently have my old
clutch plate sitting under the spare tire to balance the weight ratio
of the car to improve road grip. So removal of excess trunk wieght
isn't a viable option at this point.
4.> I can remove fuse #7 to install a heavy duty, in-line fuse
holder. That's not a problem at all. But I am a bit curious as to
what the design flaw is. Is it the issue with the wiring harness
under the driver side fender, or is it because too many accessories
are fed thru this one fuse?
Now, a little back ground. My inertia switch has been removed from
the circuit entirely. Last year when my fuel pump failed in traffic,
I had to bypass the inertia switch to get the fuel pump to run. The
pump is now grounded directly to the chassis.
A week ago, my fuel pump did become noisy a couple of times. But
after inspecting the pickup hose, there are no leaks, and the hose is
rock solid with the spring installed.
Before I go, many thanks out to everyone who has helped me thus far!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 02:35:20 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: My Clutch - Part II
Yes, soon after driving thru some flood water, I did have clutch
failures. At first (because the water was at the bottom of a hill,
below an industrial area) I believed that oil may have washed onto
the clutch disc, and that was the cause of slippage. When the car was
taken into the shop, it was discovered that the disc was worn down to
the rivits. Almost no material was left. I hadn't anticipated this,
but I had already ordered a new slave and master cylinder (Hard Core
from P.J. Grady). My car had been fitted with a SS Braided line
previously, and had it's master cylinder resealed by someone (a very
poor "ghetto" job at that). The slave was missing it's rubber seal on
the outside as well. Going back over everything, water was the
culprit that caused my failure. But, this is only because of old
parts that failed under regular use.
This first time I had my clutch replaced, I noticed fluid dripping
from the slave cylinder. And it should be noted that both times
before my clutch failed, I drove thru water. And my slave was also
missing the rubber seal on the outside as well.
Since the replacement of the clutch, and all related components,
everything is just fine. I've since driven thru some pretty deep
water, and have had no problems with my clutch at all!
I don't think you can replace the clutch fork and related components
with out dropping the entire tranny. Total labor cost for my car:
$480. This covered tranny removal/replacement, installation of slave
cylinder (I installed the master), resurface flywheel, installation
of clutch and all related parts, flush/bleed system, and adjust shift
linkage & cable.
It's understandable that your car may be out of commision for a
little while. Just remember to start the car, and run the motor
regularly.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jim Reeve"<ultra@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, after climbing on top of the engine this afternoon and
peering down at
> the clutch, I have a better understanding what had happened. From
initial visual
> inspection, I could see that the outer seal on the slave cylinder
is completely
> torn off. The push-rod also looks like its fully extended, and the
linkage
> bolt from the push-rod to the pivot fork has broke in two. The
pivot fork itself
> looks like its fully retracted (clutch engaged) but when I started
the engine
> today I could shift through all gears without problem, like the
engine wasn't
> even on. So I'm assuming that the clutch is physically siezed
slightly disengaged.
> An inspection under the car (but not jacked up) showed clutch
fluid all over
> the frame, so I have to get that cleaned up and repainted/epoxyed.
But what
> really caught my attention was a fair sized square hole on the
driver's side
> of the transmission casing in the clutch area. If I remember
correctly, Robert
> Rooney started having major problems with his clutch after driving
through a
> small flood. I believe Robert later diagnosed the water to have
entered the
> clutch area through this opening and corroded the internals of the
clutch. (howd
> I do Robet?) Isn't there supposed to be a seal over this opening?
I couldn't
> find it in the parts manual. I've been driving my DeLorean daily
since June,
> and this included quite a few drives through the rain. So it seems
my clutch
> has had pleanty of exposure to water. For those who are
interested, I will
> still be attending the Minnesota Fall Get-together, but without my
car. Thats
> it for now, my car is disabled for the rest of this year. Everyone
else enjoy
> them!
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 01:22:00 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Voltage Drop and Clicking Sound
Bobby and Group, You say the bulb fixed the problem with the volt meter and
then you say your having the same symptoms again. Did the bulb go out again
and if so then your probably falling victim to the regulator problem that
will be plaguing the older application cars that don't have a computer.
Alternator builders who were and are using GM regulators. Everybody beware,
GM changed the regulators a month or two ago and where the Delorean only uses
the light wire for exciter, GM regulators would work fine but they knew they
were being used in a non GM application. Now the GM regulators won't work.
Our cars are getting older and the GM regulators now have to have the sense
wire hooked up also, if not the regulator will self destruct.
Not to worry, I now have a new Light wire regulator only and it's working
fine. I also have a new external mounted regulator that will run cooler and
is adjustable. We can now overcome the low voltage needle on the volt meter
on the dash also. If you have and are running fine with the alternator you
have, and it was built recently like mine were, they more than likely have
the older technology GM regulator and will work fine till they just die of
old age. Then we will install the new light wire only regulators. Maybe GM
will get enough complaints to come back with it.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/alternators.shtml
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 23:40:35 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: missing logo and vin#
you don't need a new grill. Some people like the look of the grill all
black without the logo. Just purchase a logo ( 50$) and install it
yourself. A new grill is almost $400.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cohee, Michael" <mcohee@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 1:20 PM
Subject: [DML] missing logo and vin#
> Currently looking at a Delorean and have 2 questions...the front grill is
> missing the DMC logo...anyone have one fall off? stolen? just curious why
> it would be missing and if they are easy to have put back on or do you
> need a new grill.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 00:18:02 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Bigger Problem - Clutch
Eric, I just replaced my clutch system about 2 months ago, 51,000 miles. Even though you can shift with the throw out bearing squeeling and it will created a more friction and force on the system, You may have worn the disk down to the point it has now worn or groved into the flywheel. If this has done then you will have to remove the flywheel and have it turned also. If you will look at my web site www.specialtauto.com under drive train, I am showing what the disk and pressure plate look like as well as the clutch disk. Yes, I replace all the clutch parts when you have it tore down, it would be going out more than likley with in a few thousand miles unless you plan not to keep the car. It would also save a lot of money and time in the future.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com/drive train
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:19:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Cavepaintings" and dates in behind (above) headliners...
Here's under the healiner of Dave Howarth's car (the one in the Back from the
Future video)
http://delorean.connect-2.co.uk/pictures/dcp01195.jpg
As you can see it's one of "Metal Mickey's". I believe Dan Willis
(www.projectmadness.com) has doors signed by "Elvis"
Martin
Jan van de Wouw wrote:
>
>
> Another thing I found is a drawing of "Winnie the Witch", I remember
> seeing a similar picture on the Internet, can someone point me to the
> right URL? I tried searching the group, but the search turned up
> empty.
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:54:23 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Miniature Lamps
One thing I have notice about the lamps on the Delorean is that they all
cross over pinball machines. I have 3 and I have used lamps from them in the
tail lights and interior. These lamps are very cheap and are sold in boxes
of ten (for about $3). Check out Marco specialties website:
http://www.marcospec.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=marcos
pec&Category_Code=Lamps
Travis
Greenville, SC
VIN 3512
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:10:06 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cruise-In Program Update
I have been considering going to this show, but have decided to fly
instead of drive.
Is there anyone that will have a extra seat in their car (a DMC or
otherwise) that could let me tag along for the weekend? I'd fly in to
Atlanta on Friday night, and out on Sunday night.
Id like to avoid renting a car.
Thanks,
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: DMC Joe [mailto:dmcjoe@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 12:23 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cruise-In Program Update
To All,
As we move closer to the show date the program rundown is beginning to
take final shape. Here is a quick review.
<SNIP>
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 13:53:19 -0000
From: johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fuse question
I noticed that I had no brake lights. The fuse was broken.
It calls for a 10 amp fuse. I recently connected a third tail light
that came installed on the car mounted on the luvures. I put in a 15
amp fuse for the tail lights because with the addition of the third
tail light a 10 amp may not be enough. Is my thinking correct or am I
making a mistake. What is and how do you figure the amp load of your
brake light circit.
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:38:11 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Winner of the Gold DeLorean
James,
You asked: "....... and wondered if anyone knew where this gold DeLorean is now?"
Click on this DMC.tv link for the latest information on the Gold DeLorean http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/gold.html .
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
[SNIP]
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:40:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Used window regulators on ebay
To All
For anyone interested in used window motor regulators, we will have a box full for sale at the DMC Joe Parts Flea Market at the Cruise-In Show Show next month.
Link to: Cruise-In http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/cruisein.html
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"See You At The Cruise-In"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
[moderator snip]
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 16:10:28 -0000
From: jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: BMW Eurofest, NC Owners and idle stall
I have am now a student in Davidson NC with my Delorean, I
might be interested in hooking up with owners from Winston
salem to go to this show,
My car has been doing great for these first few weeks of classes,
but when I have the AC on, it tends to stall at low rpms, like when
I idle at the stoplights.
Also note My e-mail address is now jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx
and I cannot check my earthlink email easily anymore
thanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 Davidson, NC
VIn 6808 Oak Ridge, TN
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxx> wrote:
> There will probably be three of us from Winston-Salem, NC
going. We were there
> last year and it's quite a show!
>
> Bill Lane
> #3635
>
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:34:02 EDT
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Gas cap rust...
Perhaps a silly question, but what is the best way to get rust off a badly rusted gas cap?
Richard
Modesto, CA
(no, I never voted for Gary Condit)
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:29:53 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: used cats for sale
I have about 4 used CATS that I want to get rid of. They all have
about 20K on them. Use them as replacements, use them for testing,
hollow one out, whatever. I'm selling them for $20 each. If anyone
is interested, let me know. They all appear to be ok inside, but I'm
not going to guarentee anything. I will guarentee that they will
fit :)
Erik
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