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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. After Market Rims
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: What year is my car.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: fan troubles
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Re: RE: fan troubles
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Back on track! (update)
From: Heydudetoo@xxxxxxx
6. DeLorean Motor Company Open House
From: "James" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Going away ... for a while
From: Farrar <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: What year is my car.
From: "Patrick Cowan" <LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: What year is my car.
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
10. Re: fan troubles
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
11. Re: 16" & 17" wheel discussion
From: sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx
12. Re: fan troubles
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
13. Re: Right rear body panel removal
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: What year is my car.
From: "Jason Smith" <jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Back on track! (update)
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Hey dude, what year is my car?
From: Cory Whitehead <carman@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Back on track! (update)
From: Heydudetoo@xxxxxxx
18. Re: Re: D sighting: Roanoke TImes Article
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: After Market Rims
From: "Sacha Prins" <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: What year is my car.
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
21. RE: Back on track! (update)
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Back on track! (update)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: fan troubles
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Re: After Market Rims
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. volts one day, none the next
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 19:34:35 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: After Market Rims
All: A while back I took the time to locate a set of rims that would just
bolt on and fit without spacers or any other mods. I just checked and they
are still available. I was really pleased upon seeing them first mounted on
my D.
Go to: www.discounttiredirect.com
search by wheel type: Konig Monsoon
Sizes:
Rear: 17x8 4-100/108 20S Rear Tires: 235/55-17
Front: 15x6.5 4-100/108 40S Front Tires: 195/55-15 ( I mounted
205's and they are a little tight but OK)
Pick you tire brand and don't forget lug nuts (12mm). This is a good
value/easy solution.
FYI the stock tire diameters vs. new recomendations are:
Rear: 26.1" vs. (new) 27.2" Closer to stock would be a 235/50-17 @
26.3" diameter. (I liked the bigger tire.)
Front 23.2" vs. (new) 23.4"
As you can see you can really match diameter and still get a lot more rim to
look at. About my only complaint is that my nose and tail plastic caps look
dull by comparison to the silver on the wheels. They needed repainting
anyway (oh well).
Don Ekhoff
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 22:40:26 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: What year is my car.
John, One of my cars is number 11004, Date Jan 82. Maby someone and corrilate
with this.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:15:49 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fan troubles
David and Group, I now have two different otterstats to turn on and off at
about
10 degree F different depending if you live in a cooler climate and want it
to turn on less such as David or in the southern hotter climate such as me
and want the fans to turn on sooner. I have both described on the web site at
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml,
At the point on the gauge where Davids is turning on is where mine turn on
with the cooler unit 92c x 2.13 = 196F and the 97c x 2.13 = 207F. When I
install the hotter, unit my gauge is about 1/8th above the 160 / 2nd mark.
The otterstat is turned on by the temp of the coolant, since there should be
no air in the line because he has a air bleeder, then it would be resonable
to expect that maby the Circuit breaker is heating up and turning the fans on
and off . The only other thing I can think of would be air getting in the
line continuiously like another was doing earlier. A friend of mine found out
he had a leaking head gasket and another reported air was leaking in around
the otterstat. David, It's a good question.
I would maby opt for air getting in the line as fast as it's bleeding out.
Naturally I could be wrong. What about the thermostat sticking open some and
the radiator hasn't had time to cool the coolant down.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:32:23 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: RE: fan troubles
Hello Mike,
There must be a problem or maybe the D cooling system operates way
differently than the other cars I have. Maybe I didn't explain it enough. I
know sometimes I leave things out:) For example I drove from my home to Grand
Rapids today(25 miles each way) on a 70 MPH freeway and the fans came on
twice while driving steadily at 70MPH. From what I have heard from other D
owners, the fans rarely come on below 50 MPH even in 90 degree heat. FYI When
my 3000Gt sits in idle the fans come on and then within a minute they turn
back off as the temp goes down. I mean, they are rarely on when the car is
in motion. Shouldn't the D do this? Or is it different? I'm not a mechanic
or anything so any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
David
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 00:54:21 EDT
From: Heydudetoo@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Back on track! (update)
Steve;
When your engine backfires, is it through the intake or out the tail pipe?
An engine that back fires has either an intake or an exhaust valve
open when the gas mixture for that cylinder explores. Carbon buildup in the
engine can stay hot enough to light off gas mixer at the wrong time or the
plug can receive fire at the wrong time. Valves must both (intake & exhaust)
be closed tight when the mixture explores or you will get a backfire.
The most likely thing is carbon in a plug, fire jumping inside the
rotor cap,( bad plug wires cause this) or a weak / broken valve spring.
Pull a couple of plugs, are they carboned up? (black build up around
the tip) If so, put in 6 new ones of the correct rating. The wrong heat
range lets them run to cool to burn off the carbon and you get build up and
back fires.
No carbon on the plugs, pull the rotor cap and check for blacken lines inside
the cap.
Normally jumping fire will blacken this area. If there are black lines
inside the cap replace the cap, rotor and plug wires.
A weak valve spring will give you backfires at high RPM, a broken one will
give you Lots of backfires.
I believe this engine uses oil pressure to keep tension on the timing chains,
how is your oil?
Anyway, just my two cents.
Jerry
Vin# 4890
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 03:57:49 -0000
From: "James" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Motor Company Open House
Just a reminder that the registration cutoff for the Open House is
TODAY, FRIDAY July 27th! We've had just one person cancel their
registration after our announcement last week that the warehouse
would not be complete, so we have decided to hold firm on the
registration deadline...
Register online at: http://www.delorean.com/openhouse.asp
or you can call and register by phone at 800/USA-DMC1 (800-872-3621).
There are a few rooms left at the hotel, as well. The normally $179
per night room is just $79 for attendees, and in light of the delays
on the warehouse, most of the events will take place at the hotel, so
it's the best place to stay, too! Call them direct at 281-445-9000
and mention the DeLorean Motor Company event to receive this
discounted rate.
Since there is no DOA Expo this year, this will be the only national
event held until Ken's event next summer! Feel free to call or email
me with questions...
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
800/USA-DMC1
www.delorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 23:11:39 -0500
From: Farrar <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Going away ... for a while
Hi, List!
I'm switching ISPs when I move. Back in a week or two.
Cheers!
Farrar Hudkins
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 00:12:56 -0400
From: "Patrick Cowan" <LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What year is my car.
it is an 82...my civic is a 95 and it was made in July 94!
production dates arent always the same as the cars model year.
Patrick
----- Original Message -----
From: <johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 9:43 PM
Subject: [DML] What year is my car.
> The original bill of sale states that my car is year 1982. The plate
> on the drivers side says it was made Dec. 81, and it is vin#10779.
> What year is it really.
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 04:16:09 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: What year is my car.
Your car is a _model_ 1982 manufactured in late '81. The build month
and the model years do not coincide as is typical for the auto
industry. You'll notice that even modern cars have the next model
year available before the turn of the calendar year.
The '82 model cars start with VIN numbers in the 10,000 range.
You can get a lot of information about the DeLorean production dates,
model years, and build options from the production chronology
available at www.dmcnews.com.
Knut
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, johndmc57@xxxx wrote:
> The original bill of sale states that my car is year 1982. The
plate
> on the drivers side says it was made Dec. 81, and it is vin#10779.
> What year is it really.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 04:30:04 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fan troubles
It sounds like the issue you are referring to is that your fans seem
to be running longer than expected once they kick on
I had this same isse with one of my cars,and the cause in my case was
quite simple. The otterstat has some hysteresis built into it so that
it activates at one temperature and deactivates at a lower
temperature (the otterstat is just a thermal switch). In my case, my
symptoms were that once the cooling fans turned on they would stay
running until I turned the car off.
For me the source of the problem was merely that the thermostat and
the otterstat had temperature ratings that were not quite compatible.
The otterstat would trigger once the temperature got to about a
needlewidth above the white tick mark halfway between the 100 and 220
marks on the temperature gauge, and the otterstat hysteresis would
keep the fans engaged until the temperature got to slightly below the
tick mark. Unfortunately, the thermostat was such that it would never
let the temperature get below the tick mark because that was it's set
point. The result was that once the termperature rose to a
needlewidth above the tick mark, the fans would come on and stay on
until the temperature dropped to a hair below the tick mark which
would never happen until the car was turned off. The fix in my case
was to replace the thermostat.
On both of my cars, the fans come on about a needle width above the
tick mark halfway between the 100 and 220 mark, and the fans stay on
until the temperature drops to about the tick mark (or a hair below).
Knut
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hello,
> When my fans come on they stay on for a Long time and rarely
turn off.
> They turn on exactly on the line below the 220 mark.
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 12:56:02 -0000
From: sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 16" & 17" wheel discussion
would you consider takeing orders for the spacers since your guy
already knows how to do them?
skipper landry
www.sk1pper.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 05:15:00 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fan troubles
It does sound like you have a problem with the fans not turning off.
Today I drove around town for a few errands, and not once did the
fans activate on their own. 108°, w/NO stop and go traffic, and no
A/C. Fans turning on @ a little below 220° is normal. My car is the
same way. But the question here is did your temp ever go down? If the
temp never dropped, then your system as far as the fans are concerned
are fuctioning fine. If not, then you may have an issue with coolant
flow. The thermostat in the water pump. It could be possible that it
isn't opening up all the way to allow the proper water flow to cool
the engine. Or it may even be a loose alternator belt not gripping
the water pump pully.
Another possibility could be your A/C. Once you got into the car, did
you turn the blower on? The mode switch may not have been clicked all
the way over, and could have tripped the A/C compressor and fans.
Just a few thoughts...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hello,
> When my fans come on they stay on for a Long time and rarely
turn off.
> They turn on exactly on the line below the 220 mark...
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 09:56:05 -0400
From: "Eric J. Hennebury" <ehennebury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Right rear body panel removal
Steve,
From what you've described, I think you have the right bolts. When I
removed my rear fascia (and the fiberglass behind it) I noticed that my car
had an extra screw holding the fiberglass together on each side. This screw
can be seen if you remove the rear tail light and look in to the right.
Mine was a plain Phillips head, and it looks like it was added as an
afterthought, although I'm certain it was during assembly as opposed to
being done by the previous owner. I'm not sure if all cars are like this,
or why it was done. Perhaps it was to reduce rattles, or assist somehow in
the assembly process. At any rate, see if you have these extra screws, and
if so, removing them should allow you to pull back the rear fascia assembly.
Hope this helps,
Eric
VIN 17065
<snip>
> I am in the process of removing my right rear body panel and have run up
> against a challenge.
<snip>
>
> Can someone help me identify these screws so I can continue??
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 11:02:37 -0400
From: "Jason Smith" <jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What year is my car.
I've got 10676 sold to me as an '82 built dec 81
jake
----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 10:40 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] What year is my car.
> John, One of my cars is number 11004, Date Jan 82. Maby someone and
corrilate
> with this.
> John hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 14:48:19 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Back on track! (update)
The Plugs, Cap, rotor and wires are all new. The heads were rebuilt
along with rebuilding the engine myself. I guess the only thing I can
think of at this point is that the Valve lash is off on one of the
valves....I'll have to recheck those (which I was about to do
actually). The oil is new and so are the tensioners and timing
chains. Oh and to answer your question it backfires out the tail
pipe...but not a "bang" more of a hesitation "popping" noise. It
sounds like it's happening on one cylinder...looks like it's time to
break out the old leak down tester to test the compression of each
cylinder. Thanks.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Heydudetoo@xxxx wrote:
> Steve;
> When your engine backfires, is it through the intake or out the
tail pipe?
> An engine that back fires has either an intake or an exhaust
valve
> open when the gas mixture for that cylinder explores. Carbon
buildup in the
> engine can stay hot enough to light off gas mixer at the wrong time
or the
> plug can receive fire at the wrong time. Valves must both (intake
& exhaust)
> be closed tight when the mixture explores or you will get a
backfire.
> The most likely thing is carbon in a plug, fire jumping
inside the
> rotor cap,( bad plug wires cause this) or a weak / broken valve
spring.
> Pull a couple of plugs, are they carboned up? (black build
up around
> the tip) If so, put in 6 new ones of the correct rating. The wrong
heat
> range lets them run to cool to burn off the carbon and you get
build up and
> back fires.
> No carbon on the plugs, pull the rotor cap and check for blacken
lines inside
> the cap.
> Normally jumping fire will blacken this area. If there are black
lines
> inside the cap replace the cap, rotor and plug wires.
> A weak valve spring will give you backfires at high RPM, a broken
one will
> give you Lots of backfires.
> I believe this engine uses oil pressure to keep tension on the
timing chains,
> how is your oil?
> Anyway, just my two cents.
> Jerry
> Vin# 4890
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 12:38:53 -0400
From: Cory Whitehead <carman@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Hey dude, what year is my car?
Group, another way to verify "model year" is by the tenth digit of the whole
17-digit VIN.
There're only three choices here for DeLoreans:
1981 = B
1982 = C
1983 = D
Not all letters were used. Example, if you're ever in doubt when reading your
whole serial number about the letters I and O, just know they're 1 (one) and 0
(zero) because they don't use those letters on a VIN. This is to avoid just
that sort of confusion.
This became an international standard with all new vehicles produced worldwide
in 1980, and each digit has special meaning, either to the int'l standard, or
to the specific manufacturer (engine used, build factory, etc)
Hope this helps you out a little bit!
--Cory
'82 Toyota Supra (digit C)
'89 Chevy Cavalier (digit K)
'91 Chevy Cavalier (digit M)
'?? DeLorean (still dreaming)
Jason Smith wrote:
> I've got 10676 sold to me as an '82 built dec 81
>
> jake
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2001 10:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] What year is my car.
>
> > John, One of my cars is number 11004, Date Jan 82. Maby someone and
> corrilate
> > with this.
> > John hervey
> > http://www.specialtauto.com/
> >
> >
> > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 13:25:30 EDT
From: Heydudetoo@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Back on track! (update)
Steve;
Sounds to me like you already know how an engine works without my two cents.
Your right, you have to have an exhaust valve that is not seated completely
every time. Compression is the best way to find it now.
Good Luck
Your in the sport.
Jerry
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 10:27:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: D sighting: Roanoke TImes Article
I don't know about that specific vehicle, but there have been posts in the
past about a few folks running superchargers. (There's plenty of room.)
Don't recall if anyone has a package on the market, but a search of the
archives should dig something up.
-Eric
On Tue, 24 Jul 2001, Eric J. Hennebury wrote:
> Good article. Just one question though (and I'm sure others will have the
> same question). The article states this gentleman's Delorean is "a
> supercharged, stainless-steel, gull-wing sports car." Obviously I'm
> questioning the supercharged bit. I'm assuming this is just an error on the
> journalist's part, but if not, does anyone have any info on this particular
> vehicle?
>
> Eric
> VIN 17065
>
> > Subject: D sighting: Roanoke TImes Article
> >
> > For all the VA D owners, here is a sighting I saw in
> > the Tidewater VA paper picked up from the Roanoke
> > Times
> > http://www.roanoke.com/roatimes/news/story115155.html
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 17:32:19 -0000
From: "Sacha Prins" <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: After Market Rims
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxx> wrote:
> All: A while back I took the time to locate a set of rims that
> would just bolt on and fit without spacers or any other mods. I
> just checked and they are still available. I was really pleased
> upon seeing them first mounted on my D.
Ok, this is good information. I'm still new at this, but does what you
are saying mean that rims (from this site) that match the specs:
rear: bolt-pattern 4-100mm and offset 20mm
front: bolt pattern 4-100mm and offset 40mm
(see http://www.discounttiredirect.com/wheel_legend.html for legend)
are candidate rims? Rim diameter of course 15" to 17" rear and 14" to
16" front, and rim width approx 8" rear and 6" front (how much wider
would be possible?).
This site has a lot of rims, so maybe there are more that fit. Or have
you skimed the whole website and found the "Konig Monsoon" the only
one to fit front and rear on a DeLorean?
Sacha
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 10:39:31 -0700
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What year is my car.
The correct way to determine what year your car is, is quite simple. Look
at your VIN, there are 2 letters just before the start of the 5 digits
that are the 'Number' most of us use. BD means it is an 81', CD means it
is an 82', and DD means it is an 83'. That was the factory's method of
marking them as being a certain model year.
Trevor Johnson
DMC's 4055 and 6874
www.deloreancars.homestead.com
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 15:26:22 -0400
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Back on track! (update)
Is this the D that said the exhaust was still disconnected?
Bill Buckner
Instrumentation Supervisor
Electrical and Instrument Dept.
Pfizer, Inc.
Global Manufacturing
Holland, MI Facility
% Phone: 616-392-2375 x-2449
* Fax: 616-392-8267
* Email: william.buckner@xxxxxxxxxx
-----Original Message-----
From: Heydudetoo@xxxxxxx [mailto:Heydudetoo@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 1:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Back on track! (update)
Steve;
Sounds to me like you already know how an engine works without my two cents.
Your right, you have to have an exhaust valve that is not seated completely
every time. Compression is the best way to find it now.
Good Luck
Your in the sport.
Jerry
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 17:04:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Back on track! (update)
On Fri, 27 Jul 2001 srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> chains. Oh and to answer your question it backfires out the tail
> pipe...but not a "bang" more of a hesitation "popping" noise. It
This sounds to me more like excessively rich fuel mixture than any sort of
internal engine problem - especially since in the absence of abuse the PRV
internals almost never go wrong, but the fuel system often does. If the
mixture is too rich then unburned fuel will go into the exhaust and burn
when it comes into contact with the oxygen in the atmosphere. If you've
removed your catalytic converters, the chance of this happening is greatly
increased.
Not that there's anything wrong with a leakdown/compression test anyway,
especially if you already have the equipment... valve timing could cause
the problem you're seeing. However if it were a backfire through the
intake I would consider it more likely.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 17:33:09 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fan troubles
Hi John and list,
I pressure tested the system and left the tester on it over night and it
only went down 3psi. I pumped it up to 15 PSI and it held there for over and
hour so there are no leaks at all. The thermostat is brand new, I purchased
it from Grady's last week. Today the fans acted a little bit different. I
would hear the relay clicking VERY fast and my "fan fail" light would flicker
and then the fans would come on.
Any other ideas?
I would like to thank everyone who responded.
Thanks
David
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 14:41:57 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: After Market Rims
While I am not in the business, I have spent considerable time and effort to
establish optimal specs for both the front and rear (which create very
conflicting criteria). There are a lot that will fit the front, but the
4-100mm bolt pattern is a real restriction if you want 8" width in the rear.
Most cars with this small bolt pattern can't handle this much rim so the
manufacturers just don't make them and as far as I can tell this set is a
querk. There are several in the 7.5" range and armed with the offsets
provided you probably will find something. Wider is out of the question in
my opinion (at least if you want to stay inside the fenders, which is an
absolute must in my opinion). There are obstacles in every direction that
restrict additional width. I have purchased, installed and run these rims
and, yes, they fit, even on my very lowered car. There are no others within
this site or any other site I have found that meet all the criteria.
Don E.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sacha Prins" <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 10:32 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: After Market Rims
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxx> wrote:
> > All: A while back I took the time to locate a set of rims that
> > would just bolt on and fit without spacers or any other mods. I
> > just checked and they are still available. I was really pleased
> > upon seeing them first mounted on my D.
>
> Ok, this is good information. I'm still new at this, but does what you
> are saying mean that rims (from this site) that match the specs:
>
> rear: bolt-pattern 4-100mm and offset 20mm
> front: bolt pattern 4-100mm and offset 40mm
> (see http://www.discounttiredirect.com/wheel_legend.html for legend)
>
> are candidate rims? Rim diameter of course 15" to 17" rear and 14" to
> 16" front, and rim width approx 8" rear and 6" front (how much wider
> would be possible?).
>
> This site has a lot of rims, so maybe there are more that fit. Or have
> you skimed the whole website and found the "Konig Monsoon" the only
> one to fit front and rear on a DeLorean?
>
> Sacha
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 15:13:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: volts one day, none the next
Yesterday morning I started my car and backed out of the garage. Before I
was even off my block I noticed that my battery light was on and that my
volt gauge is at 0. I put the car back in the garage and took another car
(luckily a friend of mine is on vacation and he's storing his car at my
house).
The car started fine (yesterday and today), the fuel pump is running
strong, the radio (aftermarket) is working, the vent fans are working...
is this just a fluke with the gauge?
Where should I begin looking to fix this problem? I searched the archives,
but I can only find mentions of low gauges or problems when idling - no
mentions of zero volts.
-Christian
#3452
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