Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: OEM key blank variations
From: Lee <immerse@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Cooling Fan Question.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
3. RE: OEM key blank variations
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Lighting mod ?
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
6. RE: are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. VIN#04610
From: Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: VIN#04610 -> finding your car history.
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Cooling Fan Question.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Cooling Fan Question.
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Cooling Fan Question.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. replacing the plastic line (was "plastic clutchline syndrome?")
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
15. Re: temp gauge still not working
From: "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Removing Clock, can I leave the "window"?
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. More Horsepower
From: reuterconsulting@xxxxxxxxx
18. Re: replacing the plastic line (was "plastic clutchline syndrome?")
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
20. Cooling Fan Update: It's Fixed!
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:29:48 -0700
From: Lee <immerse@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: OEM key blank variations
Walter wrote:
> I have noticed that there are two variations of the molded plastic on OEM
> DMC key heads. I am referring to the ignition key of my '81 two key system
> car Vs. the ignition (which is also the door key) to an '82 model one key
> system car which I had the opportunity to scrutinize.
>
> I have held the two varieties of keys side by side and noticed that they are
> obviously shaped differently; although, it was long enough ago that I can't
> remember exactly how. It has bothered me enough recently that I went
> looking at photos of keys on the internet. >From the photos, I can tell that
> Lee's reproduction keys are a slightly different design than mine. In
> particular the DMC logo on Lee's keys are more centered between the bottom
> of the key chain hole and the bottom of the circular indention. On my key,
> the DMC logo is closer to the bottom of the circular indention with more
> space between the top of the logo and the bottom of the key hole. When I
> say 'bottom' in this case, I am referring to the end of the key that you
> stick in the ignition.
>
> When some of you from the DML are at a large enough DMC meeting, compare
> your keys and see what variations you notice and report back to the list. I
> used to think that all DMC molded key heads were of the same design. But
> not so! Can anyone say why or when they changed the shape? Did anyone know
> this before or am I the first to notice? Can anyone say what happened to
> the original key head molds? Are they at the bottom of the ocean? I
> suppose it could make a good fishing weight at the least.
>
> So Lee, are you ready to make a new set of molds? Are there any varieties
> of DMC key blanks that have the DMC logo on both sides? Are Lee's
> reproductions this way? It seems a waste to have one side blank if you are
> really hyped up on a reproduction logo. I'm sure some of you would be bored
> to know this, but others may find it interesting. Y'all check it out
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
reply:
Walter,
There are actually four different styles of Logo keys. I have molds for all
four. I currently produce the 1982 edition, mostly due to demand reflected in
whole sale orders from DMC parts and repair facilities. There are more
differences than just the opening in the top.
I have found no key that had any thing on the reverse side of the key, I would
be happy to make such a key if some one can supply a key example .
There are two styles of Lighted key, which I may produce in the Future. Given a
reasonable demand.
Lee
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 01:56:30 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Cooling Fan Question.
My left front cooling fan only intermidantly works. If I gently smack
the side of it with my hand, the blades will spin, and the fan works
ok, but only for a while. The blades are attached firmly to the
spindle on the motor. And likewise I can feel that the clip and
washer are attached in place. But the whole intermidant thing is
driving me crazy as you can imagine. My guess is that a brush or
something else isn't making proper contact inside.
A while back at Autozone, I saw cleaner spray that said it was safe
to use on both alternators an electrical motors. Does anyone here
ever used a product like this before? And if so, what were your
results? Thinking back, it wasn't untill after I drove my car thru
some semi-deep water that my washer motor, and this cooling fan acted
up...
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 07:04:21 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: OEM key blank variations
August 1981 Build
2 key system
Ignition key has DMC logo on one side only below the center line of the
circle
Door key has DMC logo below centerline and light switch button.
These are the original keys.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2001 2:01 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] OEM key blank variations
I have noticed that there are two variations of the molded plastic on OEM
DMC key heads.
Snipped
I'm sure some of you would be bored
to know this, but others may find it interesting. Y'all check it out
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 09:14:11 +0200
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
After following this thread the past few days, I have to ask this question.
Recently I discovered that my car has a complete steel clutchline. It is a solid
steel line of about 3 or 4 mm thick. Has anyone heard of this before or am I the
only one and isn't the clutch line to narrow?
Mads
#06881
deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 6/27/01 1:01:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> wiltzius@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> > Is there truth to this rumor or is it possible to just
> > swap out the plastic line for the steel one? Any insights/experiences
> > welcome!
> >
> >
>
> I did my master cylinder and slave at the same time, but that was by choice.
> (Those two you SHOULD replace together. Mine were pretty nasty looking.) The
> workshop manual says you have to lift the body slightly off the frame to
> replace the clutch line, (!) but that isn't necessary. Just leave the old
> one, and run the new S.S. one in place of it.
>
> -Wayne A. Ernst
> DMCTech Group
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:29:01 -0000
From: Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lighting mod ?
--- In dmcnews "Walter" wrote:
> I experimented with Jan's method of converting the side marker light
I have to honest here: I didn't invent this modification. I used to
hang out with a couple of truckdrivers, and among them it is a
popular modification to do to the little lights (those on rubber
sticks) they often have at the end of their trailers...
I've only done my modification at the front since those markers are
amber AND because I think it is more important to see the blinkers
from the sides at the front, since that is your direction of motion...
Also the front blinkers are quite deep in the bumper, so they aren't
really visible from the sides. That's probably why they have to pull
them flush in the UK (take a look at <http://www.delorean.co.uk>)
> I thought it was a bad idea because the side marker light
> appeared to be in series and therefore grounded through one
> of the filaments of the bumper light
> which would cause both bulbs to light dimly.
If the blinker didn't ground them it would still work: the ground
isn't drawn through one filament, but both, since they're in parralel
AND most filaments have a lower resistance when off than they do when
on. Also take into consideration that the markers are only 4W,
opposed to the 21W blinkers, they don't draw enough power to visibly
light the blinkers...
In reverse (Blinker 4W, marker 21W) it wouldn't work because of the
higher resistance of the lower wattage bulb restricting current for
the higher wattage one...
> Does anyone have a suggestion on how to do a similar modification
> to the rear marker lights? The wiring diagram I have in my
> service manual is not reproduced very well.
Just the same, snip the ground to the marker and connect it to the
blinker at the back. Only downside is you have to take out the entire
taillight to access the wires...
As for colorcodes; there's a good chance they're the same as in
front; it's essentially the same circuit, so this would be logical,
especially since the markers/taillights/positionlights are fused
Left & Right instead of Front & Back...
I don't have my documentation handy here (I'm at work now), but when
I get home I'll check if I'm right. I'll either confirm or correct
myself tonight...
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 07:00:31 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: are there d's with minimal troubles?
Since 1981, my DeLorean has only had minor problems. The plastic clutch
tube had to be replaced with the braided SS. I have had to replace the fuel
pump and suction hoses a couple of times. The biggest source has been from
the electrical system, specifically the connectors and relays. The cause, I
believe to be from lack of use. Minor corrosion on the relay contacts and
wiring connectors. When something decides to quit working, I always start
by cleaning the connectors. Yesterday, the fuel pump would not come on.
Turns out that the RPM Relay was the culprit. I removed it and cycled the
relay by hand. It looked clean so I hooked it back up and it now works
fine.
Every thing else that I can think of has been maintenance or upgrades.
Replaced shocks and trailing arm bolts.
Replaced tires
Replaced vent escutcheons and door pull handles and straps
Cleaned injectors
Replaced plugs
Replaced hoses, thermostat and upgraded to 3 row radiator
Serviced AC, twice since new (evacuate, leak test and fill with R-12)
Replaced belts and tensioner pulley bearings.
Upgraded Alternator
Replaced fuel level transmitter with N.O.S
I could use this as my Daily Driver but I choose not to. I prefer to drive
my D on longer fun trips and use other vehicles around town.
<30,000 since 1981
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:32:34 -0000
From: Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: VIN#04610
Hello everybody
A few weeks ago, I bought myself a Delorean after looking around for
a long time. I've been a Delorean-fan ever since the Back to the
Future-movies, but I never thought I would ever own one myself, since
there are not many around in Belgium.
Anyway, I bought VIN#04610, standard stainless steel exterior, grey
interior, manual gearbox, hoodlines but no gasflap and no emblem. A
few minor defects, but nothing I can't solve.
I've looked on the ownerslist, but I can't seem to find my VIN-
number. All I know is that the car came from California (according to
the previous owner). Is there anyone from DML who can tell me more
about VIN#04610, where it came from and where it was bought
original ? It's always nice to know the history of a car. I would be
very thankfull.
Also, I would like to know if there are other Belgian Delorean-freaks
on DML. You don't have to own a Delorean yourself, but it's always
nice to know that there are other Delorean-freaks in Belgium.
Regards
Andy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 14:11:30 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
In my experience with Deloreans and old cars in general there are some
common things I noticed. The condition of a car is GREATLY affected
by the care it has been given over it's life. If a mechanic who isn't
familiar with a "D" has been working on it there are usually some
problems that are never properly corrected. If the owner or owners
weren't diligent about taking care and fixing things as needed there
could be many little things to fix. If the car sat for an extended
period that causes problems. History of the car is paramount. The few
design problems and recalls are well known, fully documented, and
easily repaired. What costs the big bucks is going over someone else's
work and doing it correctly because now you are paying twice to repair
something once. Remenber we are talking about a 20 year old car here.
Look around at other 20 year old cars and you either see cars that
were taken care of and are in good shape or you see parts cars that
could be rebuilt. Deloreans ae no different. I have seen may running
parts cars that were being sold to be daily drivers to the owner who
thought he would buy a cheap project car and use it as he fixes it up.
It is up to the buyer to know what he is getting into and this list is
one of the best ways to learn about the car. As you see many owners
who have a Delorean want to make it run right and use this list to
help them learn more about the car. Many are not mechanics and so are
not able to fix even simple things so you see all levels of questions
from my lights don't work to how to get the motor to idle correctly.
The fuel system, drivetrain, doors,and suspension system are not what
many Americans are familiar with and so are large sources of
questions. Among the most common things I see are that the cars don't
idle properly because whoever worked on the car didn't understand the
idling system of the Bosch fuel system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Mike, I know as the moderator said you mainly hear the bad over the
DML. But I have put only 20,000 miles on one of my D's with no major
problems and have taken several 4,5,600 mile trips with no problems.
Any 20+ year old car will need maintence. There are a few updates that
need to be made to make it more reliable. As you know with only appx 2
years of production, a lot of problems come to the top, but most of
the vendor's as myself are addressing them.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:20:16 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: VIN#04610 -> finding your car history.
My car wasn't on the list when I bought it either.
I received some paperwork with the car that included a name and city for
each previous owner except one. I have talked to them all but that one, and
he was just a dealer taking expensive vehicles to Alaska.
It took some time, but thanks to the internet, I was able to find contact
information for all of the owners (except that one). And, finally did hear
from them all.
It was definitely worth the trouble. I recommend everyone do that!
Incidentally, the car never made it to Alaska, it was sold in Washington to
the second owner. Which is both good and bad since I was living in Alaska at
the time and might have been able to see it had it made it, but never would
have been able to buy it in Texas if it had.
There are some tools... like carfax, but they don't necessarily go back very
far or very well. Finding and calling people is the best way.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 9:32 AM
Subject: [DML] VIN#04610
> Hello everybody
>
> A few weeks ago, I bought myself a Delorean after looking around for
> a long time. I've been a Delorean-fan ever since the Back to the
> Future-movies, but I never thought I would ever own one myself, since
> there are not many around in Belgium.
> Anyway, I bought VIN#04610, standard stainless steel exterior, grey
> interior, manual gearbox, hoodlines but no gasflap and no emblem. A
> few minor defects, but nothing I can't solve.
> I've looked on the ownerslist, but I can't seem to find my VIN-
> number. All I know is that the car came from California (according to
> the previous owner). Is there anyone from DML who can tell me more
> about VIN#04610, where it came from and where it was bought
> original ? It's always nice to know the history of a car. I would be
> very thankfull.
> Also, I would like to know if there are other Belgian Delorean-freaks
> on DML. You don't have to own a Delorean yourself, but it's always
> nice to know that there are other Delorean-freaks in Belgium.
>
> Regards
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:29:07 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Question.
Robert,
The product you are describing is more than likely electrical contact cleaner. Yes; this product is completely safe to use on your electrical components.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2001 9:56 PM
Subject: [DML] Cooling Fan Question.
A while back at Autozone, I saw cleaner spray that said it was safe
to use on both alternators an electrical motors. Does anyone here
ever used a product like this before? And if so, what were your
results? Thinking back, it wasn't untill after I drove my car thru
some semi-deep water that my washer motor, and this cooling fan acted
up...
-Robert
vin 6585
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 17:10:30 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Question.
Robert,
Unless you are sure that the problem is in the motor, make sure that it is
not a power supply problem. Remember that even though there are two fans,
they are powered through separate feeds. My first guess is that you have a
bad connection in the other end of the car. But if hitting it with your
hand temporarily fixes it then either that was coincidence or you have a bad
connection in the motor.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:11:39 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Question.
Robert,
Spray cleaner, as you should know won't rebuild and replace 20 years of wear
on brushes, armature and bearings. That's why I rebuild them with new brushes
and bearings and turn the armature if necessary, then clean out the old goop.
I also sell new ones.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:44:56 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
Prior to the availability of the Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line replacement the installation of a solid pipe, as you have described, was installed by some owners.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: M.C. de Bruin
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 3:14 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
After following this thread the past few days, I have to ask this question.
Recently I discovered that my car has a complete steel clutchline. It is a solid
steel line of about 3 or 4 mm thick. Has anyone heard of this before or am I the
only one and isn't the clutch line to narrow?
Mads
#06881
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:41:00 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: replacing the plastic line (was "plastic clutchline syndrome?")
thanks for the replies, everyone!
tomorrow i will be replacing my plastic line with the steel-braided
replacement. should i follow the workshop manual instructions, short of
seperating frame from body, or is there an easy way?
for instance, should i just unhook the line at the slave cylinder, let all
the fluid run out, unhook it from the master cylinder, and then take it off
the clips that hold it to the chassis or whatever (i haven't actually looked
at the thing closely yet, so i'm not sure how it all runs yet)? are the
clips/ties/whatever reusable or should i expect to need to make a hardware
store run once i see what i am dealing with?
will the old fluid drain from the slave and master cylinders when i unhook
the line or will it stay in there? when i replace the fluid, do i just dump
it into the reservior and follow the bleeding procedures in the shop manual?
any other insights or tips are more than welcome. i will post the list how
my experience went next week.
thanks!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:34:16 -0400
From: "Tyler Graves" <graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: temp gauge still not working
I had a similar problem with my temp gauge recently. I started playing with
the sender unit, but it turns out that the actual needle in the gauge was
stuck for some reason. Someone on the list suggested sticking an unfolded
paper clip through the speedo stalk hole and flick the needle a bit. What
great advice! I guess the needle got stuck into a funny position when the
car was turned off (you know how the gauges can sporadically jump and freeze
when the ignition is turned).
You might want to give that a try first before tearing apart your binnacle.
Tyler
>>
# 3472 Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:26:41 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: temp gauge still not working
Hey guys,
my temp gauge has never worked since day one when i bought my D last year.
now that it's summer i'm actually trying to tackle this thing. it is stuck
at the first increment and does not reset upon ignition, or move at all.
i just replaced the temp sending unit, but still nothing. where do i go
next, besides replacing the gauge in the dash which could possibly be burnt
out from a stuck sending unit??
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 00:20:45 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Removing Clock, can I leave the "window"?
Hello everyone,
I plan on removing the clock on the center console since I can hardly read it
anyway and if I could it wouldn't be precise: it's about 5 min fast PER WEEK!!!
Since I also have plans for putting in several LEDs to monitor some functions
(One for each cooling fan, AC clutch, Batterysaver engaged/disengaged) I would
like to know if it is possible to leave the little "window glass" in place when
removing the clock. Since this panel is "smoked" I could put a couple of large
(10mm square) LEDs in, with masks to show the functions.
I was inspired in doing so because of the picture at
<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer3.htm> at the bottom of the page...
I like the idea, but with my idea I can do more with the shapes and sizes for my LED-indicators...
While I'm in there I might look at making a solid state dimmer for the
dashlights, but that's only maybe: I have them connected together for full
illumination now and sometime even that's not enough to my liking...
Thanks for the help,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 23:06:38 -0000
From: reuterconsulting@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: More Horsepower
It seems that just about everyone has a suggestion on how to get more
horsepower. I was always under the impression that before you start
with oxygen intake and fuel mixture....you need to begin with the
exhaust system. Who out there can suggest an effecient and cost
effective way to get more horsepower out of a Delorean's exhaust
system without replacing it. If I am going to do this type of
project I want to do it right, and work on the whole system and not
just a muffler upgrade. The only thing, is that before I do anything
I would love to hear of others experiences.
By the way if you are sick of having a weak and embarrasing horn? I
just installed a WOLO Airmite 2 dual tone air horn...and trust me no
one cuts me off anymore. It install is about 30 minutes and works
awesome. I got it from a local auto parts store for $25.
Thanks so much.
Roy Reuter
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 01:29:37 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: replacing the plastic line (was "plastic clutchline syndrome?")
As long as you are buying the clutch line from a Delorean vender, they
are the best source of first-hand information. They all will spend as
much time with you on the phone talking you or your mechanic through
any procedure as long as you buy their parts. As far as replacing the
line there is no magic way to do it. NEVER reuse the brake fluid and
use DOT 4. There is a high likelyhood that after flushing out the
system with the fresh brake fluid you will find that the slave and or
the master cylinder will start to leak which is why most will tell you
that as long as you are in there to do the cylinders too so you only
have to bleed the system once.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> thanks for the replies, everyone!
>
> tomorrow i will be replacing my plastic line with the steel-braided
> replacement. should i follow the workshop manual instructions,
short of
> seperating frame from body, or is there an easy way?
>
> for instance, should i just unhook the line at the slave cylinder,
let all
> the fluid run out, unhook it from the master cylinder, and then take
it off
> the clips that hold it to the chassis or whatever (i haven't
actually looked
> at the thing closely yet, so i'm not sure how it all runs yet)? are
the
> clips/ties/whatever reusable or should i expect to need to make a
hardware
> store run once i see what i am dealing with?
>
> will the old fluid drain from the slave and master cylinders when i
unhook
> the line or will it stay in there? when i replace the fluid, do i
just dump
> it into the reservior and follow the bleeding procedures in the shop
manual?
>
> any other insights or tips are more than welcome. i will post the
list how
> my experience went next week.
>
> thanks!
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 01:49:06 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
I Would think that a solid Stainless Steel(but bigger than above)
line attached to Flexable SHORT Braided Steel lines(at each end)
(slave and master) (to avoid flexing the solid line) would BE
superior to just a full length Braided Steel line(because of the
flexability,if not bolted to the frame every foot or less or so.That
is the reason car makers do not run full length flexable brake/clutch
lines.
Claude
000570
----- Original Message -----
From: M.C. de Bruin
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 3:14 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
After following this thread the past few days, I have to ask this
question.
Recently I discovered that my car has a complete steel clutchline.
It is a
solid
steel line of about 3 or 4 mm thick. Has anyone heard of this
before or am I
the
only one and isn't the clutch line to narrow?
Mads
#06881
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 02:02:52 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Cooling Fan Update: It's Fixed!
I figured that once in a while you have to take some risks, so last
night I went over to Autozone and picked up a can of Berryman
Electric Motor Cleaner before I got any responses back. The nice part
is the cleaner is non-flamable, and is quick drying. I drove the D up
onto ramps, and used the straw to spray the cleaner into the drain
holes on the motor. The liquid itself is clear, but the gunk that
oozed out was blacker than brake dust. It was NASTY! I guess just
like the horns, the fans can get road grime inside as well. I waited
about 10 minutes for the drip to stop. I then turned on the otterstat
jumper, and viola! My cooling fan finally started up for the first
time in I can't remember how many months. I took the car for a test
drive. I went about 7 miles or so with the A/C on full blast. My temp
needle doesn't go above the 2nd mark now. I had forgotten just how
cold my A/C is. I had to turn it off a couple of times later on it
was so cold.
I also tried a little experiment. When I first got my car, the air
intake drain for the heater/Air conditioning was clogged. So when I
washed the car, water had gotten into the blower motor. Ever since my
motor had a scraping sound to it. I pulled the cooling tube, and
sprayed a little electrical cleaner inside. Now the fan is quiet
again.
I'm happy with both the results, and with the money that I've saved
in the mean time. I do know that the motor is 20 years old, and I
understand that both age and useage can take it's toll. I'm not
negelcting any one part of my car, but I have other parts of it that
need more immediate attention. But for others that have had problems
with their fans, this may be a good alternative for being able to
replace the motors later on, as opposed to right now. There is 1 more
thing that I do want to add. The cleaner states that it does work on
alternators. And I'm sure that it would do a pretty good job on one.
A disclaimer on the can states that you should first disassemble the
casing for a motor first before you spray anything. It also states
that you should NOT spray the cleaner on electronic components (they
make a seperate cleaner for that). So I you do elect to clean you
alternator, I would not advise you to spray the cleaner directly into
the alternator while assembled on the car. It might damage either the
Diode Carrier, or the Voltage Regulator. That's just too much of a
risk.
Just wanted to let everyone know!
-Robert
vin 6585
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