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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Tires
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Tires
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Tires
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Tires
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
5. 1981 DeLorean For Sale - Post to mailing list please
From: "Ryan Wilson - Operations Center, HQ" <aryanman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Lighting mod ?
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
8. temp gauge still not working
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Lighting mod ?
From: Jan van de wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Auto trans lever wont go into 1st
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. :Location of in-line fuses for radio...
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
12. possible air pockets in cooling system?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
13. HELP, I'm about to really mess up!
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: Lighting mod ?
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. Gasoline Color.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
16. Re: temp gauge still not working
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: :Location of in-line fuses for radio...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
18. are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: "Mike M" <delorean_i_want@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. OEM key blank variations
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
21. Re: HELP, I'm about to really mess up!
From: David Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
24. Re: temp gauge still not working
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:03:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tires
On Wed, 27 Jun 2001, Christian Williams wrote:
> side a little better. I'm thinking about at least replacing the other
> front tire, but I may replace all around (basically because I'm
> obsessive/compulsive like that). I know that most guys dig on the
That's not obsessive-compulsive, that's the right thing to do. You should
never mix tires left to right. Mixing front to back is OK, but not a very
good thing if you can avoid it.
If these Phantoms are available in both correct sizes, that's quite a
find; there aren't really any "luxury" tires that really fit right.
> Yokohamas. I may switch to those if I can determine that they ride as
> well as these Phantoms.
People don't like Yokohamas for the ride, but for the overall quality of
the tire. They are high performance tires and, while they ride a little
better than the NCT's, ride is not what they are designed for. They stick
to the ground like they're bolted down, though.
This is referring to the specific Yokohama AVS Intermediate tire. Like
most tire companies Yokohama makes a wide variety of tires which all have
different characteristics.
> only 9 months old so I don't think that age is a factor. Could it be the
> difference between 85S and 85T? What does that designation represent?
Speed rating. I believe S rated tires are rated to 100 mph and T rated to
110. (Or maybe it's the other way around.)
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 23:46:08
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tires
The S and the T in the series of numbers and letters are a speed rating.
There is a good section on tirerack.com that explanes the speed rating, and
sizes of tires, check it out it might answer your question.
Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Tires
>Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:33:49 -0700 (PDT)
>
>The other night, my right front tire was slashed in a parking lot behind a
>bar. The next morning I got the tire replaced with a Phantom
>Radial SRX, size: P195/60R-14 85T. The other 3 tires are all BF Goodrich
>Radial TAs. The front left Goodrich is a 195/60 14 85S.
>
>I'm noticing that the new phantom tire is riding really really nice.
>When hitting uneven pieces of road that I'm used to hitting, I notice that
>my right side hits softer, and I seem to glide over on the right side a
>little better. I'm thinking about at least replacing the other front tire,
>but I may replace all around (basically because I'm obsessive/compulsive
>like that). I know that most guys dig on the Yokohamas. I may switch to
>those if I can determine that they ride as well as these Phantoms.
>
>But here's the real question. Why does this phantom tire ride better, and
>how will I know if a Yokohama ride will be similar? The Goodrich tires are
>only 9 months old so I don't think that age is a factor. Could it be the
>difference between 85S and 85T? What does that designation represent?
>
>Has anyone had Goodrich Radial TA's on before? How about Phantoms?
>
>[[Update on my how hot is too hot thread: I've been noticing that the fans
>kick on most of the time at the right temp. I may wire a switch to force
>the fans on. Thanks for all the help!]]
>
>-Christian
>
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 04:19:31 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tires
It is not very good practice to have different tires on the same axle
ie; one make tire on front left and a different manufacurer's tire on
front right. This should be done only as a temporary measure. The car
will handle differently turning left than right and may tend to "lead"
to one side even though the alighnment is correct. Also the tires
should be a close match in wear because as tires wear out the diameter
changes so if you have a new tire on one side and a worn tire on the
other the difference in size can be significant enough to cause
handling problems. Check tire pressures, the fronts are supposed to
have 23 psi. It is alright to experiment with different pressures as
long as you don't exceed the max pressure rating on the tire and you
use the same pressures in both tires front to front or rear to rear.
Do not go more than 5 psi plus or minus the 23 for the front and the
30 for the rear and NEVER above max rating.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> The other night, my right front tire was slashed in a parking lot
behind a
> bar. The next morning I got the tire replaced with a Phantom
> Radial SRX, size: P195/60R-14 85T. The other 3 tires are all BF
Goodrich
> Radial TAs. The front left Goodrich is a 195/60 14 85S.
>
> I'm noticing that the new phantom tire is riding really really nice.
> When hitting uneven pieces of road that I'm used to hitting, I
notice that
> my right side hits softer, and I seem to glide over on the right
side a
> little better. I'm thinking about at least replacing the other front
tire,
> but I may replace all around (basically because I'm
obsessive/compulsive
> like that). I know that most guys dig on the Yokohamas. I may switch
to
> those if I can determine that they ride as well as these Phantoms.
>
> But here's the real question. Why does this phantom tire ride
better, and
> how will I know if a Yokohama ride will be similar? The Goodrich
tires are
> only 9 months old so I don't think that age is a factor. Could it be
the
> difference between 85S and 85T? What does that designation
represent?
>
> Has anyone had Goodrich Radial TA's on before? How about Phantoms?
>
> [[Update on my how hot is too hot thread: I've been noticing that
the fans
> kick on most of the time at the right temp. I may wire a switch to
force
> the fans on. Thanks for all the help!]]
>
> -Christian
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:02:34 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tires
I did a search on Google for Phantom Tires. Only 1 hit came back with
anything for a passenger car. Every other hit was for motorcycle
tires. I always like to keep up with knowing things like
compatable/alternative tires. Do you know any more about the company
who makes them?
I'm not going to turn this into a posting about comparing tires
against one another. I've never even heard of Phantom tires untill
now, and the only other tires I've ever had on my car were rotten
NCT's that couldn't hold air. But I can tell you why I choose the
Yokohama AVS Intermediate's. 1. They are the high performing tire
that does well for the DeLorean. 2. They are available in a completly
matched set. Both the front and rear tires are AVS Intermidiate
series, and they both match exactly in tire rating of "V". So when
you buy a set, you don't have to mix or match anything just to get a
fit.
I only found 2 reviews of Phantom tires. While niether were for the
SRX that you mentioned, I must say that both were positive. One even
states that they perform well in the snow. Another positive is that
it does indeed appear so far that Phantom does make the appropriate
tire sizes for the DeLorean. Now the bad news. The rear phantoms have
a speed rating of V (149 MPH), but the front tires only appear to go
up to S (112 MPH). This may not be a big deal for you if you never
drive that fast. Or you may not as big a stickler as I am when it
comes to having both the tread AND the sidewalls match exactly. But
who knows, the company just might make a matching set.
For right now, I'm beyond happy with my Yoko's. But I am very
interested in learning more about these new tires. Who knows, they
may be a better tire. We'll just have to find out. Do you have any
other info on them?
-Robert
vin 6585
p.s. Be carful where you park your car. I'm not passing judgement or
anything like that, but parking a DeLorean at a bar (or casino out
here), I would consider myself pretty lucky that I got off with only
a slashed tire, and not a drunk driver hitting it (trust me, I've
seen it happen more than once). Have fun, but please, be careful! :)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> The other night, my right front tire was slashed in a parking lot
behind a
> bar. The next morning I got the tire replaced with a Phantom
> Radial SRX, size: P195/60R-14 85T.
<SNIP>
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:01:22 -0400
From: "Ryan Wilson - Operations Center, HQ" <aryanman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1981 DeLorean For Sale - Post to mailing list please
Unfortunately at this time I must sell my 1981 Delorean, a car that I love
but can no longer keep. My truck was recently stolen and I am between jobs,
so the car must go. I live in Philadelphia, PA and storing the car is rather
expensive.
The car is number 02946 and is overall in good condition. The car is an
automatic transmission with black interior. It needs a water pump, front
brakes and a couple other little things, but it is a head turner..people
love it. Car came with a few manuals and other items that go with it.
Since I bought it on 12/16/97 there has never been any major problem. The
car starts every time and runs good. Car is, as far as I know, mostly all
original down to the radio. Car has the “gas flap” hood.
Car was purchased at an auction a few years ago and driven as a weekend
car during the summer. I replaced the door struts and had the exhaust system
manifold gaskets replaced as well as an alarm system and kill switch
installed. When work was done to the car I was always specific in
instructing the people to be extremely careful and not to “hack” the car up
installing the alarm.
I am deeply saddened at selling this car and seek a good home for it, this
is why I am posting it to the DeLorean mailing...looking for someone who
will appreciate my baby.
Anyone who is interested in the car can contact me and come take a look at
it.
Price: $10,500. OBO
Ryan Wilson
Email: Aryanman@xxxxxxxxxxx
Phone: 215-423-0473
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:57:58 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: plastic clutch line syndrome?
In a message dated 6/27/01 1:01:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
wiltzius@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Is there truth to this rumor or is it possible to just
> swap out the plastic line for the steel one? Any insights/experiences
> welcome!
>
>
I did my master cylinder and slave at the same time, but that was by choice.
(Those two you SHOULD replace together. Mine were pretty nasty looking.) The
workshop manual says you have to lift the body slightly off the frame to
replace the clutch line, (!) but that isn't necessary. Just leave the old
one, and run the new S.S. one in place of it.
-Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:24:50 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lighting mod ?
I have a Mpeg video of a car from the U.K. that has this
modification. I can't remember where exactly I got the file from, but
judging by the licence plate on the back (as best I can tell), it
looks like the cars belongs to Mark Bourne from the DOC.
The turn signals in the video alternate between the clearance lights
on the feder, and the indicator bulbs on the front bumper. The set up
is VERY nice. But it only appears to flash the front clearance
lights. Plus when the lights on the fender blink, they don't dim and
brighten like the front indicators. They flash on and off.
Overall though a very nice touch, and a good safety improvement. I
noticed in traffic that other cars have 360° coverage for turn
signals. The DeLorean doesn't appear to. I'd have to say that's the
only thing on my car that I've ever noticed as being "dated".
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all!
> To put a long story short this is what I would like to do:
> I want my front orange side markers to function both as running
lights and directional indicator lights.
<SNIP>
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:26:41 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: temp gauge still not working
Hey guys,
my temp gauge has never worked since day one when i bought my D last year.
now that it's summer i'm actually trying to tackle this thing. it is stuck
at the first increment and does not reset upon ignition, or move at all.
i just replaced the temp sending unit, but still nothing. where do i go
next, besides replacing the gauge in the dash which could possibly be burnt
out from a stuck sending unit??
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:53:47 GMT
From: Jan van de wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lighting mod ?
We've allrealy had some conversation off-list, but tis can be intersesting for others too:
> To put a long story short this is what I would like to do:
> I want my front orange side markers to function both
> as running lights and directional indicator lights.
This is really simple; you have to connect the markerlights between the red and green
wires at the bumperlights on each side. Normally one would allready be connected (the red
one from the marker to the red one on the bumper), so all you'd have to do is snip the
black wire from the marker and connect it to the green one in the bumper.
On my car I had just enough room (and articulation in my hands) to snip the wire to the
marker in the bumper, if you can't snip it at lest 2" from the marker and put a new wire
alongside the original harness to the bumper. One side of the wire to the green wire at
the bumper, one side to the snipped off black wire at the marker and you're done!
Now the markers will lighjt with your position lights, blink with the appropriate side for
the indicators and if you use both lights as well as indicators at the sam time, the
markers will go out each time the indicator lights, thus blinking "negative"...
> The previous owner did some strange things
[snip]
> What can be done to get the sidemarkers function as both
> running lights and directional indicator lights
You have to find out which side of the marker the single blue wire is connected to at the
marker (use a test light), snip the other wire (ground) at the marker and follow my
instructions above for putting in a new wire alongside.
Putting in an extra wire isn't really that hard, just be carefull, patient and go slow.
Use a piece of stiff metal wire as a hook to pull the electrical wire through if
neccesary...
Need any more help,
contact me privately (again ;-)
Greetings from The Neterlands,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
Check out the DeLorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
--------------------------------
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 23:54:20 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto trans lever wont go into 1st
Aaron,
Before you do anything, be sure that your transmission is not always
starting out in second gear due to a faulty computer governer!
That said, you have the earlier console shift linkage like mine has (up to
VIN 4836). The later VINs have a different design as shown in the parts
manual.
I have noticed similar problems with my early console as well as on other
cars with early consoles. The first problem is that the moving plastic
piece that fills the slot (from part # 106347 'automatic quadrant') gets in
the way when shifting past 'drive'. Mine has bent, split & cracked enough
that I took it out. I intend to replace it with some plastic cut from a
black plastic bottle or some similar plastic. First I'm going to ask one of
the vendors next time I order parts to see if any of them have a better
idea. However, I am not willing to replace a poorly designed part with
another of the same design.
Even without the plastic filler piece jamming the shifting, the shifter
plate itself (the outer surface of part # 106347) keeps mine from going into
1st gear. If I completely remove the plate, then it goes into 1st just
fine. I suppose I either need to mount my entire console a little further
back or cut the slot a little longer. Neither of these sound like the right
thing to do. Another possibility could be to move the shifter pivot point
further forward, but there isn't any room for adjustment. (But that
wouldn't stop me from trying. :) How does the saying go? If it jambs then
force it. If it breaks, then it needed replacing anyway.
Another problem with mine is that the 'pawl ring' part # 108309 pivots on
the 'baulk lever' part # 101399. It shouldn't do this. When it does, it
allows the shifter to be moved into any position (even reverse or park)
without lifting the baulk lever. I got sick of messing with it and just
removed the whole thing. The mechanism works better without it except
I have to be careful not to bump the thing into reverse or park while
driving. The 'drive' position is pretty easy to find without it. Someday I
plan on making a new double sided pawl ring along with a new double sided
cog piece that will fit over and modify the 'housing' part # 105427. If it
works, I'll mass produce it and wholesale it to the vendors.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron King <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Yet another problem...my automatic transmission will not go into 1st gear.
And by that, I mean that the gear shift lever will physically not move into
the 1st position. The transmission shifts just fine into and out of all 3
gears, but I can't seem to move the lever back far enough to get it to stay
in the 1st position. Grrr. Any ideas?
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 21:04:46 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: :Location of in-line fuses for radio...
Hey List,
I am getting ready to install the craig radio into my car soon and I
noticed that I don't have any power going to the purple (constant power
source) and the light green (powered with ignition is on) wires. I need to
know where the in-line fuses are so I can see if I need to have those fuses
replaced. Thanks in advance for any help.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:29:16 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: possible air pockets in cooling system?
hello list (again),
when i replaced my temp sending unit today, more antifreeze than i thought
would come out spilled out, and lowered my header bottle level to just barely
covering the outlet hole to the waterpump cooling lines. i am assuming i
have just let air enter my system, even though i may not have.
my fans are set up to be constantly on regardless of otterstat position. do
i have anything to worry about? if so, what should i do? probably bleed the
system?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:01:54 -0000
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
Subject: HELP, I'm about to really mess up!
HELP!!! I'm trying to remove the old fuel lines that run from the
fuel pump to the metal lines on the frame. The metal fittings that
join the rubber coated lines to the metal lines are driving me
crazy. I finally got one off but the other is really on there. I
heard that if I damage the metal line I will have to remove the body
to replace it so now I'm scared to death to put too much pressure on
it to break the joint. One fitting is 17mm and the other is 14mm.
I've tried liquid wrench and other penetrates to no avail. I'm
thinking about trying to somehow soak the fitting in really hot water
hoping that might expand the metal enough to break the joint. I'm
able to get flared metric wrenches on the fittings but when I put a
lot of pressure on the wrenches to try and break the joint, the metal
hose starts taking a lot of stress. I'm afraid I'll damage it if I
keep twisting it. The one I removed was very clean with no rust. I
can't understand why the other one is so tight! Guess I should have
left well enough alone...
ANY help will be greatly appreciated.
JR
New owner of Vin#06136
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 14:35:32 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Lighting mod ?
I experimented with Jan's method of converting the side marker light to also
work as a blinker. I thought it was a bad idea because it would change the
load and therefore the flash rate of the blinker unit. I also thought it
was a bad idea because the side marker light appeared to be in series and
therefore grounded through one of the filaments of the bumper light which
would cause both bulbs to light dimly.
To find out for sure, I hooked up one side like Jan said using jumper wires
from the outside so that I wouldn't modify my car. You know what? It
worked! The modification does not alter the flash rate of the blinker.
Also, I discovered that the green wire is grounded by the blinker mechanism
when the light is off. That makes it a good ground and not a 'floating
ground' through another bulb. When both the flasher and running lights are
on in the front fascia, then both red and green wires are hot which produces
no voltage across the side marker light.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to do a similar modification to the
rear marker lights? The wiring diagram I have in my service manual is not
reproduced very well.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 21:48:44 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Gasoline Color.
I know that companies dye the gasoline that goes into cars, but is
there a specific color that it should be respective to octane? A
couple of month's back when I first opened up my gas tank, I had
Chevron 92 in the tank. I noticed that the gas was tinted blue.
Saturday moring my fuel pickup hose broke (my fault. I tightened a
hose clamp way to tight, and it cut the rubber). The day before I
filled up with 92 octane from a Wal Mart gas station. When I opened
the tank, the fuel was yellow.
Is the color of the fuel an industry standard, or is it just by whom
ever distills the fuel? Because I know that all tax-exempt diesel for
agricultural use is supposed to be red for example.
I just want to make sure that I didn't get jiped when I filled up
with the higer grade, or at least what I thought was higher grade
fuel.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:17:08 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: temp gauge still not working
If you have already replaced the sending unit than most likely the gauge is defective. Keep in mind that the temperature and volt meter are a combined unit and must be replaced as such.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 8:26 PM
Subject: [DML] temp gauge still not working
Hey guys,
my temp gauge has never worked since day one when i bought my D last year.
now that it's summer i'm actually trying to tackle this thing. it is stuck
at the first increment and does not reset upon ignition, or move at all.
i just replaced the temp sending unit, but still nothing. where do i go
next, besides replacing the gauge in the dash which could possibly be burnt
out from a stuck sending unit??
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:18:09 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: :Location of in-line fuses for radio...
Both fuses are located directly under the radio leading from the main wiring harness.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: [DML]:Location of in-line fuses for radio...
Hey List,
I am getting ready to install the craig radio into my car soon and I
noticed that I don't have any power going to the purple (constant power
source) and the light green (powered with ignition is on) wires. I need to
know where the in-line fuses are so I can see if I need to have those fuses
replaced. Thanks in advance for any help.
Later,
Nick
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:44:23 -0000
From: "Mike M" <delorean_i_want@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: are there d's with minimal troubles?
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: This thread comes up rather regularly. Keep in mind that the DML has 1154 subscribers and that many folks post only when they are in need of some assistance. The nature of the resulting traffic is often discussion of various problems and their solutions. The nature of the traffic on the DML is therefore probably not a very good metric of the expected DeLorean reliability and performance. As a for-instance, I have 140,000 miles on my daily driver and it's in perfect mechanical condition (as is my show car).]
Hello all~
this is my first time writing to the list...I have not been with it for a
long time but ive seen enough messages to make me think....i have been
wanting a delorean ever since i saw back to the future..and within the past
several months i have been looking to buy one. I have also seen 2 of them
in the wild so far. I know of a owner in my town which is Brainerd,
Minnesota. But here is a question. after seeing how many things can go
wrong does it happen with all cars or is there some of you out there that
have a Delorean that has run very well with no flaws? Thanks.
HedgehogT_MM(at)Hotmail.com OR
delorean_i_want(at)hotmail.com
Mike Moroni
Brainerd, Minnesota
I WILL OWN A D....someday!
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 03:00:40 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: OEM key blank variations
I have noticed that there are two variations of the molded plastic on OEM
DMC key heads. I am referring to the ignition key of my '81 two key system
car Vs. the ignition (which is also the door key) to an '82 model one key
system car which I had the opportunity to scrutinize.
I have held the two varieties of keys side by side and noticed that they are
obviously shaped differently; although, it was long enough ago that I can't
remember exactly how. It has bothered me enough recently that I went
looking at photos of keys on the internet. From the photos, I can tell that
Lee's reproduction keys are a slightly different design than mine. In
particular the DMC logo on Lee's keys are more centered between the bottom
of the key chain hole and the bottom of the circular indention. On my key,
the DMC logo is closer to the bottom of the circular indention with more
space between the top of the logo and the bottom of the key hole. When I
say 'bottom' in this case, I am referring to the end of the key that you
stick in the ignition.
When some of you from the DML are at a large enough DMC meeting, compare
your keys and see what variations you notice and report back to the list. I
used to think that all DMC molded key heads were of the same design. But
not so! Can anyone say why or when they changed the shape? Did anyone know
this before or am I the first to notice? Can anyone say what happened to
the original key head molds? Are they at the bottom of the ocean? I
suppose it could make a good fishing weight at the least.
So Lee, are you ready to make a new set of molds? Are there any varieties
of DMC key blanks that have the DMC logo on both sides? Are Lee's
reproductions this way? It seems a waste to have one side blank if you are
really hyped up on a reproduction logo. I'm sure some of you would be bored
to know this, but others may find it interesting. Y'all check it out
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:04:42 EDT
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
Mike, I think the moderator basically already answered your question pretty well. I think another point could be made that _all_ older cars develop problems here and there that need TLC. That is largely what the list is for. But that's not to say that the DeLorean has _nothing but_ problems. Mine also has about 140,000 miles on it, I drive it about 3-4 days a week and despite the occasional "hot start" problem I never have anything majorly horrible happen while I'm driving. Sure, it still needs things fixed here and there, but once it got into decent running condition my D has been very reliable. So definately don't judge the DeLorean by the posts you see here on the list. Most of what you see here are common problems that creep up from time to time but can be easily fixed.
So take care and good luck in getting your D in the future! I had to wait about 8 years for mine...with a lot of patience and dedication it will happen, :)
Richard
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 17:57:22 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: HELP, I'm about to really mess up!
John, when working on tubing fittings make sure you are using "Tubing
Wrenches". These look like box wrenches with one flat cut out of the box.
Standard open end wrenches will slip and round off the fittings. The tubing
wrenches will give you all the bite you will need to break the connection.
Dave Sontos
VIN 02573
"John L. Rahn" wrote:
> HELP!!! I'm trying to remove the old fuel lines that run from the
> fuel pump to the metal lines on the frame. The metal fittings that
> join the rubber coated lines to the metal lines are driving me
> crazy. I finally got one off but the other is really on there. I
> heard that if I damage the metal line I will have to remove the body
> to replace it so now I'm scared to death to put too much pressure on
> it to break the joint. One fitting is 17mm and the other is 14mm.
> I've tried liquid wrench and other penetrates to no avail. I'm
> thinking about trying to somehow soak the fitting in really hot water
> hoping that might expand the metal enough to break the joint. I'm
> able to get flared metric wrenches on the fittings but when I put a
> lot of pressure on the wrenches to try and break the joint, the metal
> hose starts taking a lot of stress. I'm afraid I'll damage it if I
> keep twisting it. The one I removed was very clean with no rust. I
> can't understand why the other one is so tight! Guess I should have
> left well enough alone...
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:00:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
Hi Mike,
I just want to second what the moderator had to say. I've had my D' for
over a year now. Yes, I've had a few problems here, but no more than I've
had with ANY of my older cars. (And actually I've had more problems with
a newer car of mine that is only 3 years old.)
Do your homework, take your time, and just be prepared. They are older
cars, but I think you'll find there is a larger percentage of them that
are well cared for, and where the owner knows much more of the car's
history.
They are special cars, and nothing beats the pleasure one gets when
driving stainless . . .
:-)
On Thu, 28 Jun 2001, Mike M wrote:
> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: This thread comes up rather regularly. Keep in mind
> that <SNIP> perfect mechanical condition (as is my show car).]
>
> Hello all~
> this is my first time writing to the list...I have not been with it for a
> long time but ive seen enough messages to make me think....i have been
> Minnesota.
> <SNIP>
> But here is a question. after seeing how many things can go
> wrong does it happen with all cars or is there some of you out there that
> have a Delorean that has run very well with no flaws? Thanks.
>
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 21:43:32 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: are there d's with minimal troubles?
Mike, I know as the moderator said you mainly hear the bad over the DML. But I have put only 20,000 miles on one of my D's with no major problems and have taken several 4,5,600 mile trips with no problems. Any 20+ year old car will need maintence. There are a few updates that need to be made to make it more reliable. As you know with only appx 2 years of production, a lot of problems come to the top, but most of the vendor's as myself are addressing them.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 23:26:43
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: temp gauge still not working
Andy,
I had a problem with my temp guage not working. Itraced it to a pin
connector located in the enging compartment. If your standing at the back of
the car looking at the engine you'll see the plastic cover located in the
right front corner in the engine compartment. remove that, under it is the
plugs which are pin connectors. There is a white plug at the bottom front of
all thoes plugs. I removed mine an noticed the female side of the connector
was seperated. I took a dental tool and pushed it back together. It just
wasn't making a connection. Try that before replacing the guage. Email me if
you need more info. Good luck!
Ryan-
>From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] temp gauge still not working
>Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 20:26:41 EDT
>
>Hey guys,
>
>my temp gauge has never worked since day one when i bought my D last year.
>now that it's summer i'm actually trying to tackle this thing. it is stuck
>at the first increment and does not reset upon ignition, or move at all.
>
>i just replaced the temp sending unit, but still nothing. where do i go
>next, besides replacing the gauge in the dash which could possibly be burnt
>out from a stuck sending unit??
>
>Andy
>
>Soma576@xxxxxxx
>1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
>Fargo, ND 58102
>
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