Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 8 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Acceleration Problems, From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx 2. Re: High idle speed From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx 3. Re: tempurature and malfunctioning tach From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx 4. Fuel Gauge From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx 5. RE: Freon direct replacements From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx> 6. Re: Freon direct replacements From: dherv10@xxxxxxx 7. Re: Freon direct replacements From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx 8. A/C refrigrant, some answers From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:18:12 -0000 From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Acceleration Problems, The first thing to check is the frequency valve. It should be buzzing like an angry hornet on the right side valve cover. This is the fuel enrichment circuit and if it isn't working it makes accelerating difficult. The usual culprit is the lambda relay which provides power to the circuit and has a tendency to fail. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote: > Hi all, > > I have an auto 81 DeLorean and when I drive it after about 1/2 an > hour of driving I can no longer press the accelerator to the floor > without the engine dying. It does not stop completely but it is as if > I have let go of the accelerator, as I lift my foot back up it > suddenly picks up again? The tank is full of fuel and is there is no > debris in the tank as I cleaned it earlier this year. This was the > first time I had driven the car for over 30-45 mins as I have only > just started driving it since my 21st birthday. > > Any help would be appreciated, > > James RG > England. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:13:12 -0000 From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: High idle speed Make sure that the throttle cable isn't sticking and that the throttle spool is moving all of the way to idle. Check at the idle position that the idle micro is clicking on when the throttle is returning to idle. It seems like there is a delay in the idle system comming on. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Arne Hofmann (Beta LAYOUT GmbH)" <arne.hofmann@xxxx> wrote: > Hello, > when I start my car I have a high idle speed of about 2000RPM > for about 20 seconds until it comes down to about 800RPM. > Unfortunatly there is no difference, when when the engine is warm > or hot. > I measured the thermistor - about 1-2kOhm in warm condition - s > 1o the thermistor is doing fine. All connections are ok. Any ideas ? > > Thanks > Arne > > VIN4949 > > > > > > > > > > > > > Beta LAYOUT GmbH > Feldstrasse 2 > 65326 Aarbergen > > Tel.: 0049 6120 907010 > Fax.: 0049 6120 907014 > > http://www.pcb-pool.com > http://www.schablone.de > arne.hofmann@xxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:47:28 -0000 From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: tempurature and malfunctioning tach The things you mention are relativly superficial and "easily" cured. There are many more important things to look for in buying a "D" that will cost a lot more to fix like rusted out areas of the frame, leaking radiator, worn clutch, Zillas, recalls, upgrades, etc. Your best bet would be to find a local Delorean club and get someone who can lok pver the car for you. You can't expect to buy a 20 year old used car and not have to spend some money on it. Just tires alone could cost over $500. Replacing all of the hoses and belts, tune-up and oil change could cost $$$. Realistically in your first year of ownership even doing the work yourself could cost $1-2000 depending on how much you want to do and how much was done already. Try to find out who the current owner delt with as that Delorean vender may have records as to what was done to the car or at least what the owner purchesed. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxx> wrote: > I am going to look at an 82 dmc with 27k on it which is a strait, clean, turnkey car, however the tach is said to work half the time and the water temp stays at 200 degrees. What do you all think it would take to fix the tach(money and time wise too) and what do you think about the temp, is this a scary thing on a stock D or is this not that bad and would be fine with a lower temp fan switch and thermostat(perhaps the thermostat is stuck half open? Other than that I have to beleive the car is exactly as it should be. This is the second time I sent this mesage, becasue the first time I didn't get a response. I will greatly appreciate it if someone could give me some ideas. > Thanks, Casey at putsch.1@xxxx > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:01:32 EDT From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx Subject: Fuel Gauge Hello The fuel gauge is not quite working right, only reading 1/2 full, and maybe under that (when the tank gets there.) Would there be a way to fix this simply or is there more to it? Thanks a lot! John Feldman VIN 4275 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 14:19:51 -0400 From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Freon direct replacements I converted to R134A with a $50 kit from Wal-Mart last month and am very happy. Our hot days (90 max) here in Michigan are not a real big deal, but the Delorean inside gets hot. (Side Clue... put windows nearly all the way up to obtain cool enough temperature.) Their adapter/connector for the fill side was leaking a little when done, so I removed it and tagged R134A on the car. I also replaced both schrader valve inserts prior to refill of R134A. That was the source of my slow leak. Just follow the instructions completely on the kit. Before everyone blasts me about the lower efficiency, I am aware and chose to minimize the environmental impact and financial impact. Doing my part for the world. Vin # 11268 Bill Buckner Instrumentation Supervisor Electrical and Instrument Dept. Pfizer, Inc. Global Manufacturing Holland, MI Facility % Phone: 616-392-2375 x-2449 * Fax: 616-392-8267 * Email: william.buckner@xxxxxxxxxx -----Original Message----- From: John L. Rahn [mailto:john_rahn@xxxxxxx] Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 11:45 AM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [DML] Freon direct replacements Since freon is hard to find, does anyone have any experience with the "so-called" direct freon replacements? Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 21:56:57 EDT From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Freon direct replacements I converted my 91 truck over to the new puron or what ever it called and I don't like it. It takes to long to cool down if at all in Texas. John hervey ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:35:08 -0000 From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Freon direct replacements The EPA does not recognize any "drop in" replacements for R-12 meaning that there is nothing which you can use to "top off" the system if you have R-12 in it. You must remove all of the R-12 (capturing it to send for recycling) and replace with whatever susbstitute you choose. There are many substitutes but none will equal the capacity that R-12 can provide without major modifacations to the system. Many shops no longer have R-12 in stock because of the high cost ($60 a pound). Find a large shop or one that does classic cars, there are still some around, or call a supplier that the A/C contractors use (look in the phone book) and they can tell you who is still doing R-12 service work. You must be EPA certified to do R-12 work so many shops get around that by not using R-12 anymore. Be aware that some of the substitutes use propane or butane and are not to be used in mobile applications. Many of the substitutes are just blends of several different freons and as they leak the system will do funny things as the different freons tend to leak at different rates. The high side (head) pressures will also be higher causing the system to run hotter which deteriorates things like hoses and seals faster. The bottom line is after you do all of your homework the best option is to stay with R-12 for as long as you can. The only drawback to staying with R-12 is that it is a little more expensive to recharge with. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxx> wrote: > Since freon is hard to find, does anyone have any experience with > the "so-called" direct freon replacements? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:36:04 -0000 From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: A/C refrigrant, some answers [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The Freon vs R-134, etc discussion seems to come up every summer when the temperatures warm up a bit. This topic has a lot of coverage in the archives, and although it is informative, has little that is DeLorean-specific. Further posts on this (if any) will be scrutinized for content that is specific to the DeLorean.] I thought I might be able to answer few questions on the A/C refrigerant topic. R-134a: In order to convert to it you will need to replace the following; All rubber gasket/seals (R-134a will eat away at the original ones that were designed for the R-12 over time), the Drier/Accum (since the old one will have R-12 oil in it) and the valves....that's all you need to do. If you want to take it one step further change the Orifice tube, there is a new redesigned one especially for R-134a that is a "variable valve" orifice tube that will make it colder believe it or not. The one that's in the system now is a standard fixed orifice tube. It's not wrong that someone would recommend replacing the compressor and the evaporator since professionals recommend it. By replacing the compressor to one that is designed to handle the R-134a, you will make the system more efficient...same thing if you replace the evaporator to a larger one with the same BTU rating. Yes the R-134a requires higher pressure but it shouldn't damage any components unless it is over- charged/incorrectly done. There is a new alterative to the R-12 out now that is better than the R-134a and requires less pressure and is much colder and cheaper, It's called FR-12. From what I understand the R-12 in a few years will be completely phased out and a lot of refrigeration/ A/C mechanics are moving away from it since it's getting more expensive and harder to obtain. You will still need a licensed A/C technician to do the job, it's not for sale over the counter. Here's some text from a website I found on the net regarding the conversion to FR-12: "To convert a properly functioning automotive R-12 system to FRIGC (FR-12), an installer must: Recover and recycle the R12; Evacuate the system (for approximately 30-45 minutes); Add approx. 2 oz. of Ester (POE) oil Charge the system to approximately 80 to 90% of the R12 capacity and install the under-hood "system identification retrofit label". Install retrofit fittings on the high and low side service ports; It's that simple! In some cases, it may be necessary to adjust the cycling pressure switch on CCOT systems for optimum performance." For more info: http://www.frigc.com/auto/faq.shtml And here is more information on converting to R-134a, they give some recommendations: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic50034.htm ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! 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