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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Brake squeal
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Vacuum related squeal
From: L Sandel <ls@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. AC recharge
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
4. Speedometer cable lube type
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: A couple of things
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Re: New Delorean Owner
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: Clutch line
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
8. FULLY Converting to R-134a
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: FULLY Converting to R-134a
From: "Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Clutch line
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
11. Re: Brake squeal
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
12. Update on my Warmup regulator
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
13. Radio replacement
From: johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx
14. Otterstat question
From: Sacha Prins <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Brake squeal
From: hrlyrngr1@xxxxxxx
16. The $5 window fix
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 22:15:46 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
Assuming that we are working with all good parts try using an #80 grit
sander attachment on an electric drill and then put a circular pattern
on the front rotors on both sides and then roughen up the pads with
#80 paper and use the brakes lightly for about 500 miles until the
pads and rotors wear in. If this doesnt work you might have the wrong
pads. If they are too hard they will be noisy.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, johndmc57@xxxx wrote:
> Do anyone have any suggestion on how to get rid of brakes squeal
from
> the front brakes I have tried all the products for eliminating brake
> squeal but I think it is going to take more than a quick fix.
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 18:28:34 -0400
From: L Sandel <ls@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vacuum related squeal
Greetings list,
I have developed a rather annoying vacuum related squealing/whistling
sound... It is difficult to pinpoint, but seems to be coming from in back
of the engine. I checked out as many of the vacuum connections as humanly
possible, but haven't been able to track down the culprit. It seems to only
happen after the engine is warmed up.
So, has this happened to anybody before?
It is REALLY embarrassingly loud. If it were a bit more 'woooosh' and a bit
less 'fweeee', it could at least pass for a blow-off valve until I could fix
it... "Is that a turbo in there?" "Um... sure... yeah... ya hear that?"
Fwooosh....
Thanks for any help,
Luke/#10270
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 18:34:12 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: AC recharge
Hey all,
today i got my AC recharged - i only needed 3/4 lb of freon, but boy did it
make a difference!! the AC was never very good since i bought the car, but
the ride home from the shop was MARVELOUS!!! the temp here in fargo ND is
around 85 and humid, and i really love having nice cold air conditioning!
i'm quite impressed with how cold it really is!
if your AC seems a little warm - it's time to recharge! you'll be glad you
did! BTW, the charge was about $80 for me...
later,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 16:47:08 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Speedometer cable lube type
Hello everybody,
What is the best type of lubricant for the angle drive/speedometer cable--grease or oil. What weight, brand etc.
Thanks much.
Joe Thome
VIN 06467
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 23:26:58 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A couple of things
Derrick, Since you know the accumulator is good then yes it could be the
check valve in the fuel pump. But what pump do you have, the 984 with the
built in or the 957 external. You can't service the 984, check valve. But
the 957 pump has a bolt on check valve can be replaced. I have both in stock
and you can see them on the web site. I can also send you a check valve if
you want to try it if you have the 957.
If the blower motor won't come on speed one or two, then the first thing to
check is the voltage going thru #10 fuse coming from the auxiliary relay,
going to the mode switch. If it's not making it to the fuse then, relay may
be the problem, if it's going to the fuse but not coming out, then fuse or
fuse contacts may be the problem. Tighten the contacts anyway. Then if it's
coming out of the fuse going to the mode switch. Then maby a bad mode switch.
All along the path is finding, where did the voltage go to or stop. Then last
but not least you have three resistance wires to go thru to power the blower,
if any one of them is broke. No blower. Diagram is on the web site.
John hervey,
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 05:05:27 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: New Delorean Owner
Thats interesting, my Delorean is VIN 4512 and it is an Oct. 81
build. I wonder why VIN 4597 was built in August.
Welcome to the strange world of Deloreans!
Erik
4512 Oct. 81
> Ohyeah, another nice one. The car manufacturing date stamped on the
plate
> mounted in the door sais august 81, but the guy who made the frame
of my
> passenger car door has signed it, checked OK september 1981, guess
my door
> was mounted later <grin>.
>
> Bastiaan Olij
> Owner of Vin #4597 build august 1981 since 21 June 2001
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 05:50:26 -0000
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Clutch line
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, johndmc57@xxxx wrote:
> I just replaced the stock plastic clutch line with a stainless
> braided line. This is the best upgrade I have done so far. The car
> shifts with ease and the clutch works great. I am still amazed that
> the OEM part was such a bad design.
Be prepared to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as the
added presure seems to affect their operation. I had to replace both
after about a week. They were leaking and while I did not se a pool
on the floor, I did find fluid on the transmission and also up under
the dash.
Scot
6452
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 08:12:03 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: FULLY Converting to R-134a
I know the argument back & forth over the different types of
refrigerants...
What I want to know is if anyone in the group has replaced all of the
needed parts themselves? (These parts would include the compressor,
acumulator/dryer, evaporator, and oriface tube.)
If anyone has replaced these parts, where did you get the parts, what
are the part numbers, and how much were the parts.
I have considered going to a local conversion shop, but I worry about
them doing a "complete" job. Last question: has anyone had good or
bad luck with a conversion shop?
Thanks in advance for the information...
If you wish, you may contact me directly at tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx
Ben Boatright
VIN 10115
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 14:36:41 -0400
From: "Vicky Miller" <delo1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: FULLY Converting to R-134a
hello list the a/c system was designed to operate on r-12. why do a
conversion for a cheaper refrigerant that does a less effective job/you will
spend more money in the long run replacing parts that get destroyed trying
this conversion. spend the money for the r-12 and enjoy the ride. bob miller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 4:12 AM
Subject: [DML] FULLY Converting to R-134a
> I know the argument back & forth over the different types of
> refrigerants...
>
> What I want to know is if anyone in the group has replaced all of the
> needed parts themselves? (These parts would include the compressor,
> acumulator/dryer, evaporator, and oriface tube.)
>
> If anyone has replaced these parts, where did you get the parts, what
> are the part numbers, and how much were the parts.
>
> I have considered going to a local conversion shop, but I worry about
> them doing a "complete" job. Last question: has anyone had good or
> bad luck with a conversion shop?
>
> Thanks in advance for the information...
>
> If you wish, you may contact me directly at tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx
>
> Ben Boatright
> VIN 10115
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:09:43 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Clutch line
Chances are the leak did not occur due to the added extra pressure.
The leak usually occrs after a fluid change if it had not been
changed in a while. Old fluid will be a lot thicker than new so it
will not leak out of the system as much if any. Chances are the seals
in the cylinders were on their way out. That's why it is recommended
that when you replace the Slave cylinder you should replace/inspect
the Master clutch cylinder...and vice versa if you had to replace the
Master.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, SGSKBM@xxxx wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, johndmc57@xxxx wrote:
> > I just replaced the stock plastic clutch line with a stainless
> > braided line. This is the best upgrade I have done so far. The
car
> > shifts with ease and the clutch works great. I am still amazed
that
> > the OEM part was such a bad design.
>
> Be prepared to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders as the
> added presure seems to affect their operation. I had to replace
both
> after about a week. They were leaking and while I did not se a
pool
> on the floor, I did find fluid on the transmission and also up
under
> the dash.
>
> Scot
> 6452
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:22:35 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
The cause of the brake squeal will usually be from the pads moving
(as you are applying the brakes) and the steel back of the pad
rubbing against the steel piston (that's why the anti-squeal compound
is applied). To get rid of the squeal I would take the pads off, sand
the back of the pads (steel surface) down until all the old anti-
squeal compound and rust is off. Sand down very lightly the contact
area of the piston (where the pads sit on). Spray down the caliper
with Brake cleaner to get rid of all the break dust and any grease.
It is very important that the back of the pads and the piston seat
surface are CLEAN (at least as clean as possible) so that the
compound will adhere better. They sell anti-squeal shims (I believe
Rob Grady stocks them along with the other D vendors) and anti-rattle
springs...I suggest installing those. If you can't get them then
apply some high quality anti-squeal compound to the clean metal
surface (back) of each pad and follow the directions on the compound
(dry time, etc..).
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, johndmc57@xxxx wrote:
> Do anyone have any suggestion on how to get rid of brakes squeal
from
> the front brakes I have tried all the products for eliminating
brake
> squeal but I think it is going to take more than a quick fix.
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 22:13:24 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Update on my Warmup regulator
Well today I opened up my Warm-up Regulator to rebuild it. Luckily
everything in the fuel area is functional. No leaks, clean, etc. The
problem that I found? The wires going to the Bimetal strip were
melted/broken..no connection. The Bi-metal strip is in excellent
condition and measure 35ohms (what it's suppose the measure), All I
have to do is remove all the damaged wires and replace them. What
caused this? I don't know...it could have been the vent tube was
blocked not allowing the heat generated to escape.
That's all for now,
Steve
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 22:29:38 -0000
From: johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Radio replacement
Moderator's note: This subject has been beat to death over the past couple of years. A search of the archives would produce enough reading for an evening.
I am going to install a FM radio-CDplayer in my DMC. I would
appreciate anyones comments on this as to which is better and easier.
A combination radio/CDplayer or a radio with a remote CD changer.
I do not have a lot of money spend.
Thanks.,
John
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 01:35:51 +0200
From: Sacha Prins <sacha@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Otterstat question
Hi,
A week or so ago I reported some overheating problems with my new
DeLorean. My conclusion then was that the waterpump or thermostat was
broke.
Today as a test I drove the car with the heating on full blast because
someone told me that if the engine overheats, and the heater stil works
the waterpump is ok and the thermostat is probably broke.
To my syrprise I drove the car for aprox. 30 miles at aprox 65 mph and
the engine wouldn't heat up further than the 180F mark. Great news as
this means my waterpump works and (new conclusion) the otterstat is
broke. The fan cirquit works because short cirquiting the otterstat
wires triggers the fans.
My question; is there a non messy way to change the otterstat. Since it
is located at aprox. the lowest point in the cooling system I would
think a total drain of the system is needed to properly change it.
Other question; is there something against shorting the otterstat wires
until the otterstat is replaced (causing 100% fan operation)?
Last question; Is the otterstat (and it's grommet) a DeLorean specific
item or can I use a part from another car (Volvo?)?
As seen in M:15:01
Thanks,
Sacha
#16187
#17115
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 23:17:49 EDT
From: hrlyrngr1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake squeal
I have the same problem. I replaced the pads, shims & turned the rotors &
they still let out an ear piercing squeel?????
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:19:28 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The $5 window fix
I've been intrigued by it for some time, my passenger window needs
help. I wonder if it's as good as it looks, anyone for or against it?
I wonder if the clamps should be cemented or locked in place some way
rather than just squeezing them by hand? I wonder why 5 rather than 4
or 6 or whatever (at the price)? I wonder if someone has a better fix?
(I wonder a lot).
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