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There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re. Euro front plate holder
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: Automatic Car Wash
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
3. Re: Euro front plate holder
From: Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. TAKE THE TOUR - Giugiaro, Delorean Display - Automotive Hall of Fame
From: "Mr. Copies Print Centres" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Re: A/c fixes
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Re: Nationality of DeLorean
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Pictures factory Delorean SS frame
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
8. RE: A/C oil
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: DMC Prices
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
10. Body shops near Seattle/Eastside?
From: "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Euro front plate holder
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
12. Virginia Area British Car Show
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Cooling problems, update
From: Sacha Prins <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Selling a DeLorean
From: eurojet@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
15. Re: trailing arm bolts
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: Re: Euro front plate holder
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Cooling problems, update
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
18. Re: trailing arm bolts
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Door adjustment? (was Body shops near Seattle/Eastside?)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: DMC Prices
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:33:43 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re. Euro front plate holder
Hi all,
I have seen a Euro holder advertised on a German stainless steel site
but unfortunately I can remember the address, it was something like
DeLorean steelproducts.com ?
I have stuck mine on with 6 blobs of sticky back Velcro, it is very
strong, allows you to easily change the front plate for car shows and
you don't have to drill any holes. It is also available in black so
when you remove the plate it does not stand out. I put mine on about
a month ago and there is no sign of it coming off.
Make sure you clean the bumper first before sticking the Velcro on I
used one of those Alco Pad alcoholic computer screen wipes as it
removes any bumper wax and grease.
Hope this helps
P.S. someone had already drilled holes in my front bumper which I
have had to fill, pure butchery!.
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 09:00:56 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Automatic Car Wash
This depends on your car. I normally wash my D @ the do-it-yourself
car wash with the high presure sprayer. When I wash my car, I do lift
the louvers and scrub and spray the engine cover and rear-inner
quarter panel glass respectivly. My car always fires right up with no
problems. But at the same time, I have spark plug wires made
specificly for the PRV engine, so they have the boots on top to seal
the spark plug wells. If this is not the case with your engine, you
may have problems. I keep a soft drink straw in with my tool kit just
incase I ever need to blow the water out if something were to ever
happen. Just make sure that the ignition coil cover is in place, and
you have no bare wires. Everything should be ok.
The brushless car washes are great if you wash your car on a regular
(weekly) basis. But they don't always remove tar and bugs. Before you
run your car thru, test it's water-proofing with a garden hose first
to make sure there are no leaks or anything. That way you can stop
the water immediately so it doesn't flood you car incase you find a
leak.
-Robert
vin 6585
p.s. When washing the DeLorean with a high pressure sprayer and
bubble brush yourself, choose a carwash that uses colored soap. You
don't need to have the brush come in contact with your car. You can
simply 'fling' the soap onto the car and scrub with your own rags,
sponge, etc. But colored soap has an advantage; when you go to
finally rinse the car off, you can tell if any soap is still in the
grain of the stainless because you car still see the pigment! By
fully removing all the soap, the car will dry easier, and will have a
brighter sheen. Or if you choose to polish the body, the stainless
will shine much quicker. There are no ill effects from the colored
soap, but it will tint your car untill you rinse it (because of the
same carwash I always go to, my car becomes pink!)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, badgeman46@xxxx wrote:
> Does anyone know if its ok to run a delorean through a touch
free
> car wash??? I am just wondering if the high water pressure would
> interfere with the electrical system if it got in the engine
> compartment. Any car wash experiences?
>
> -Jay
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 11:09:07 -0000
From: Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Euro front plate holder
Hello
I may have a way to mount a numberplate to the front fashia. On the
lowerpart of the front fashia, there are are few existing holes.
I made a numberplateholder out of stainless steel, bended it into an
L-shape and I fixed it upsidedown to these holes, so I hadn't have to
drill new holes in the fashia. Now I could fix my front plate to this
stainless steel plate. That's the way I did it.
Regards
Andy
VIN#04610
PS. I hope you can read this, because my English writing isn't that
good !
[moderator snipped duplicate quote]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:35:03 -0400
From: "Mr. Copies Print Centres" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TAKE THE TOUR - Giugiaro, Delorean Display - Automotive Hall of Fame
Hi Guys!
I went to the Giorgetto Giugiaro exhibit at the Automotive Hall of Fame on Friday.
I've posted the pictures on my website www.mydelorean.com just click on the
"Projects" link and it'll take you there.
The photos feature the 1/5th scale Delorean model, some concept drawings including a Turbo Delorean and a quick tour of the facility.
Any questions or comments email me!
thanks
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Windsor, Ontario (right across from Detroit, Michigan)
VIN#17089
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:39:58 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: A/c fixes
If you did not FLUSH the system, you will be replacing AC components in
the next 2 years.
Many of the better AC shops also insist on changing the receiver/dryer
because it is impossible to get the old R12 oil out.
The R12 oil will muck up the R134a.
For anyone who has NOT converted, save yourself the headaches.. Stick
with R12.
My only warning about R12 is, make sure you user PURE R-12 or some other
high quality replacement. Make sure the blend does NOT CONTAIN propane.
Yes, some R12 mixtures have Propane. I have heard of people using pure
propane in systems too. Although it cools nicely, a small AC leak could
be deadly!
-----Original Message-----
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:noflux@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 1:42 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: A/c fixes
<SNIP>
The only thing I did to convert mine was chang out the charging
valves (on top of the compressor)and purge and vaccum out the system
SO THAT ALL OF THE THE OLD R-12 AND R-12 OIL IS OUT then rechrged it
with 134a, and it seem to be just as cold as the R-12.
<SNIP>
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:46:58 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Nationality of DeLorean
Someone should tell the morons who run the "America only" car shows!
FWIW, The British car shows (for the most part) have welcomed DeLoreans
to participate. This is not true of the American car shows.
-----Original Message-----
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 3:56 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Nationality of DeLorean
<SNIP>
for the American market. I would say that the
DeLorean is a very American car
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 15:11:02 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Pictures factory Delorean SS frame
Hi Mike!
I would like to see some photos of the SS frame. Why don't you upload some
pictures to the "files" of yahoogroups...
bye,
Ralf.
>
>
> Hello List,
>
> I have pictures of the stainless steel frames from Lotus, and other
> engineering photographs, such as the engines from Renault.
> I wasn't sure where to post them.
>
> Sincerely,
> Mike Pack
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 09:08:28 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: A/C oil
That depends on what freon you are using.
Most of the time, Oil only needs to be put in if the system has been
evacuated. If you are just adding a bit of freon because you may have
lost some over the years, there is no need to add oil.
Too much oil will hurt cooling.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Foster [mailto:westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 8:24 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] A/C oil
Is there any specific oil that should be used when charging the A/C?
Ryan -
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 13:19:40 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
I have contacted them, and they said they have a waiting list of over
12 months.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
> Advertising a car for $50/60K and selling one for that
> price are two different things. I would love to know
> just how many cars D1 has sold in the past year at
> that price.
>
> Dick Ryan
[moderator snip]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 13:34:35
From: "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Body shops near Seattle/Eastside?
It's me again with another problem. I recently discovered that the reason
my passenger door is not closing correctly is not because it needs an
adjustment, but because it is bent. Not scratched or dinged or anything.
The entire door itself is bent somehow. The front part goes down too far
when closed, and hits the black windshield border. The back part doesn't go
down enough, and sometimes won't latch. Also, you can see when the doors
are both fully opened that the passenger side is an inch or two lower than
the drivers' side. My question is, does anyone in the Seattle area know of
a body shop that will work on the SS? I just need someone's advice on a
good body shop that will be able to bend the door back into shape,
preferably without taking the door off the car. Any tips, hints, advice is
welcome.
Thanks!
Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
vin#1217
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:14:40 -0000
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Euro front plate holder
This isn't related to Euro plates, but USA plates. I live in
Massachusetts where it is illegal to drive without the front license
plate unless you have one of the "old greens ones" where they only
issued a back plate. Customized plates do not fall into this
catagory, so I have two plates. I went to get the car inspected and
they guy was impressed with the car, but said "where's the front
plate?". Then sent me on my way without my inpection sticker. How
nice. So I rigged up a bracket system which I would recommend WAY
before you drill holes in your bumper just to satisfy some silly law.
The bracket is made from a large T shaped piece of metal with the leg
of the T bent 90 degrees back about half way down (a picture would be
nice. If you want one, email me). The bracket then attaches to the
center most nut that holds on the radiator grill. This holds the
plate in position against the bumper. You may want to pad the plate
so it doesn't bounce all over and scratch when you go offroading.
Needless to say, I ripped the damn thing off after I got the
inspection sticker.
Gotta love Mass,
Tyler.
#3472
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 10:05:04 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Virginia Area British Car Show
The 17th annual British Car Show at Browns Island in Richmond VA is now
officially scheduled for September 23, 2001. Last year we had about 20
DeLoreans here and we want to surpass that number this year. Please visit
www.dmc12.com for more information.
Jack
5823
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 16:24:13 +0200
From: Sacha Prins <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling problems, update
DMC Joe, Ryan, Dave,
I'd love to test the thermostat myself, however, due to the setup of the
engine (with turbo kit completely obstructing the waterpump) I'm going
to leave this one up to the shop. Disassembly of the turbo might not be
a problem, but assembly may be (gaskets and all). Besides, the shop is
equipped with pressure tester and the right tools (I assume), whereas I
only have a wrench set and a hammer (again, useful for disassembly, but
not for assembly :).
Assuming the thermostat is stuck (water doesn't cycle, pump seems to
work, car has been garaged 8 years), is this a repairable item? Or is it
non-servicable? If it isn't repairable, is it a common item, or is it
specific for the DeLorean water pump? I ask this because I'm in the
Netherlands, and if I need to order a new one that may take several days
(or longer) to arrive plus I would like to combine that order with
other stuff I need for this car. So that might take some planning in
advance.
Thanks,
Sacha
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:24:49 -0000
From: eurojet@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Selling a DeLorean
Thanks for all of the advice on selling my car. The reason I don't
want to put it on e-Bay is because I'm too cheap to pay them their 5%
of the selling price. That's a fair amount of change which I'd rather
spend on cosmetics for the car to make it perfect! If anyone was
serious about buying my car, I'd drive them up to Don's in Garden
Grove and pay him for his 62 point inspection again. That way the
potential buyer would know exactly what they were getting and I'd find
any hidden flaws in my car as well. I surely don't to sell someone my
car if they're going to be unhappy with it. There's nothing worse than
buying your dream car only to find out that it needs thousands in
repairs. I bought my dream motorcycle last March and used my heart,
not my head. After I drove it home I found out that it needed over a
grand in repairs. I sold it and lost $400 in the deal. That's bad news
for everyone involved. It amazes me that some cars go for over $20K
and I can't even get someone to look at mine for $16K. I'm sure that
the person that does buy my car (eventually...) will be posting to
others what a great deal they missed out on. Trust me folks, it's a
great car! No, I'm not a used car salesman.
Fil Vigil
#6232
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:37:32 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: trailing arm bolts
To: Jake and the List.
Please refer back to message # 6346 (Safety campaign) and # 16319
(Trailing arm bolts).
They explain the updates/upgrades necessary on your DeLorean.
Especially early model DeLorean's like my July '81 build. I didn't
do the updates myself. Instead I used competent mechanics who know
the DeLorean and they advertise in our Pacific Northwest DeLorean
Club newsletter.
I was only made aware of the updates thanks to this list.
I sincerely hope people have not spent all of their money on
purchasing a DeLorean and don't have enough left over to do the
necessary upgrades and purchase a workshop manual. You can view the
parts manual at either:
www.delorean.com
www.deloreanone.com
Mark R. Vanyo
VIN # 02261
Lic OUTATYM
Seattle, Washington
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jake@xxxx wrote:
>
> I'm curious if i need to replace the trailing arm bolts in my car
> 10676 (manufactured dec 1981 - considered an 82). I'm not entirely
> sure where they are located, or even what to look for when i find
> them.
>
> jake
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 11:23:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Euro front plate holder
Massachusett is not unique. Colorado and many other
states require a front license. I have been pulled
over by the Highway Patrol in Utah strictly for not
having a front plate.
However, you don't have to make the bracket - the
DeLorean vendors sell a bracket which does just what
you describe. To eliminate the rattle and the
possibility of scratching, I put stoppers on the bolts
which hold the plate on the bracket (stoppers=just
like those rubber things on the ends of the door
closure lights).
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:20:14 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling problems, update
The thermostat is a non servicable item. It is a common part that can
be found in any autoparts store and is fairy inexpensive (I don't
remember the part number for it). Since you need to order other stuff
for your D from one of the Vendors, I would (assuming that you need a
new one) order it through them...you'll be sure to get the right one.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Sacha Prins <sprins@xxxx> wrote:
>
> DMC Joe, Ryan, Dave,
>
> I'd love to test the thermostat myself, however, due to the setup
> of the engine (with turbo kit completely obstructing the waterpump)
> I'm going to leave this one up to the shop.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:34:58 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: trailing arm bolts
Jake,
The trailing arm bolts are in the rear of the car and attach the
trailing arms to the chassis (not the wheel side of the arm). You
will need to remove the two (one on each side) deflector shields from
under the car in order to see them. Be carefull removing the three
bolts that hold each shield in, they can be rusty and snap off...if
they do...don't fret you can buy a new and improved stainless
replacment studs from PJ Grady.
The things you want to look for are the following:
1. Make sure the trailing arm bolts did not "walk out" and that they
are not bent. This is caused by the single nut on the bolt lossening
up. If it has, than more than likely you are missing some, if not
all, the shims.
2. See if the Trailing arm bolts are double nutted (this will prevent
the trailing arm bolt from "walking out" as described in 1.)
3. Inspect the rubber bushings and make sure there are no signs of
cracks in the rubber, that the steel bushing in the center of the
rubber has not seperated from the rubber and that the two bolts that
hold the bushing assembly to the chassis has a nut installed on them
(you can see it through the hole in the frame on the engine side).
The two bolts on the bushing assembly thread into the chassis, a nut
was added to it to keep it there.
Hope this helps,
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jake@xxxx wrote:
>
> I'm curious if i need to replace the trailing arm bolts in my car
> 10676 (manufactured dec 1981 - considered an 82). I'm not entirely
> sure where they are located, or even what to look for when i find
> them.
>
> jake
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 16:28:46 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door adjustment? (was Body shops near Seattle/Eastside?)
Aaron,
>The entire door itself is bent somehow. The front part goes down too far
>when closed, and hits the black windshield border. The back part doesn't
go
>down enough, and sometimes won't latch. Also, you can see when the doors
>are both fully opened that the passenger side is an inch or two lower than
>the drivers' side.
I hope you are mistaken about your door being bent. If you are correct, it
would sound like you have a twisting sort of bend. HOWEVER! My driver's
door has a problem similar to what you describe.
I had DMC Joe adjust my door (there is a picture of him doing it in a
previous issue of DeLorean World). At that time, the only fixes it really
needed was having the rear quarter panel gasket moved and the door posts
adjusted. Everything was great for a long time after that, but now things
have changed.
When the door closes, the front edge of the door is lower than the rear.
I'm sure this is an adjustment between the body & the hinge or the hinge and
the door. Also, from a previous owner's bad attempt at adjusting the door,
someone left little dings in the T-panel and the top of the door. I have
since bought a new T-panel and am wondering what to do about the dings in
the door. They are almost invisible unless you know where to look. Another
problem my door has had at one time is that the front edge caught the top of
the black trim piece over the windshield and bent it down. I ended up
buying a new trim piece. I think what caused the damage was having the door
adjusted too far forward.
Someday I plan on removing both doors, verifying hinge position and making
everything under the T-panel water tight.
So.... I think your problem is adjustment related and not that anything got
bent. I suppose it is possible that someone once slammed your door on a
seat belt or other object that bent/twisted the door. But if that happened,
then there should be other visible signs as well. Before you try
straightening anything that may not be bent in the first place, make sure
the door is properly adjusted.
DMC Joe told me that a common mistake people make when adjusting doors is
that they adjust them to line up with the body panels. This is wrong.
Instead the door should be adjusted to fit the fiberglass opening and THEN
the front fender & quarter panel are adjusted to align with the door. I'm
sure he will have something more to say about that.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 15:24:27 EDT
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
Anyone know of anyone who actually bought a $60k D1 car? Does anyone on the list own one? Is there really one?
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