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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Tach to Speed chart
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Cam removal for performance grind...
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: Cooling problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: DMC Prices
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Anybody from Connecticut planning to attend the open-house?
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
6. hyperactive antenna
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
7. RE: Cam removal for performance grind...
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Cooling problems
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: Cooling problems
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Latest DeLorean CLub of Oregon newsletter posted
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
11. Re: Re: Dead Market?
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
12. Re: DMC Prices
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Tach to Speed chart
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
14. Re: Cooling problems
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
15. DeLorean Meet
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. 4th speed fan switch
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: rain leak
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Cooling problems
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: 4th speed fan switch
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Cam removal for performance grind...
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Cooling problems
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
22. Re: Reluctant downshift.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
23. Re: Cam removal for performance grind...
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: 4th speed fan switch
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Cooling problems
From: sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:31:33 EDT
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tach to Speed chart
Sean,
Check out the Resources section on the DML main page. There is a chart for
tach to mph.
Looking forward to Memphis!
Bruce Battles
Vin # 06569
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 15:33:51 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cam removal for performance grind...
The Delorean is a Dual cam. Removing the cams will require the
removal of the following items: The rocker arms, cylinder heads
(since you have the remove the head bolts to remove the rocker arm
assembly), timing chain cam sprocket, air intake assembly and other
small misc. things. You will then have to re-set all the timing's on
the timing chains unless you have a special tool that will hold the
chain in place while you remove the head (mark the sprocket and the
chain with a straight line so you know how to line them up). Look in
the workshop manual and you will see a picture of the tool. You will
also need a tourqe wrench and a special degree dial tool (you can
also use a protractor) to set the tourqe for the head bolts. Again
you can see a picture of the tool in the work shop manual.
When removing the heads from the block...BE VERY careful. The
DeLorean engine is a "wet bank" engine meaning that there are cast
iron sleeves in the block for the pistons. They are just sitting in
there and are held into place by the force of the heads. There is a
small paper ring gasket that is under them (mating surface of the
sleeve that goes to the block) and they come in different thickness.
If you just pull the heads off you may risk taking one of the sleeves
out along with it and that would be BAD! You'll then have to remove
all of the sleeves from that bank and replace the seals under the
sleeves. Those paper seals will tear if the sleeves come out. It
separates the oil from the coolant in the block. The reason why you
would have to replace all the sleeve seals in the one bank if only
one came out is because you won't know what thickness the original
seal was (they are also used as shims) and if you just replace one
then it may either be thicker (causing the sleeve to sit higher than
the other two) or thinner (causing the sleeve to sit lower than the
other two). Either way will cause the new head gasket not to seat
properly. Rock the head back and forth gently until it breaks free
from the block. Once it feels free carefully lift up on it while
watching to see if any of the sleeves are sticking to the head / head
gasket. Usually the head gasket will stick to the block...which will
be a good thing. I have rebuilt my engine in my Delorean so I know
every inner working part in it. It is not to difficult but it takes
patience and a lot of care.
If you need further assistance or have any questions email me.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxx> wrote:
> I am going to get the cams in my engine a performance grind, and I
was
> wondering if removing them (and reinstalling them) is too difficult
for a
> beginning to intermediate mechanic. If not, has anyone done this
before?
> Any hints, tips, or tricks? My experience has mostly been in fuel
system
> fixes, and I haven't really touched the block yet. Also, I have
seen
> differing statistics regarding whether the DeLorean is a dual cam
(per
> cylinder bank) or single cam engine. Could someone clear that up
for me?
> (The reason I ask is, I'm being charged by the camshaft) Horray
for better
> performance! Well....a little maybe.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron King
> Kirkland, WA
> vin#1217
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 12:07:05 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
Sacha,
It is extremely unlikely that your water pump is not circulating coolant through your cooling system unless the drive belt is detached. The most common cause of rapid overheating is due to a broken water pump drive belt or insufficient coolant level. Check to see if you have at least 1" of coolant in your header tank when the engine is cold.
Your are using the incorrect method to test your cooling fans. To test the fans simply unplug the two connectors at the cooling fan thermal switch (M:15:01 fig. 61 item# 1 workshop manual) located in the coolant return line on the driver side of the engine compartment. Insert any value blade fuse (any fuse from your fuse block will work) into the two connectors, turn on the ignition; both fans should activate.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com"> DeLorean services.com
DMC.tv is in your future .....
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 09:22:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
When asked about price (value) of a DeLorean, I always
start by quoting the price from DMC Houston for a
warranteed, reconditioned car; ie, $29,500. This give
a frame of reference the questioner can understand.
Then I start talking about trailer queens, daily
drivers, and "hurts", pointing out that , yes, there
are $8-10K cars out there and if you are a good
mechanic with $5-6K to spend on parts, then one of
those $8-10K cars MIGHT be a good deal.
BTW, if addtion to Ebay, I think we have to consider
the impact of BTTF. On the one hand, BTTF made our
cars very recognizable to a whole new generation of
potential owners. On the other hand, those movies
trivialized our cars to the point of making them
appear as a "Disney-like" creation. Thus, not to be
taken seriously as a collector/special car.
My 2¢
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:31:05 -0000
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Anybody from Connecticut planning to attend the open-house?
Hi all, just looking to see who else on the list is from CT or nearby
who is planning on attending the open-house event in August. I am,
and am trying to see what i need to do to make the trip a smooth one.
I've never gone to any dmc events before, actually this will be my
first "vacation" ever! So anybody who can provide some good info
regarding flight booking and vehicle rental in the Houston area, I
would much appreciate some info. My only problem seems to be that car
rental agencies require a person to be 25. I'm only 24! Thanks for
any help.
-Jeff
future DMC owner.
VIN #????
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:57:55 -0000
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: hyperactive antenna
Driving yesterday I could hear this "click-click-click" as I drove, so
I turned off the radio to hear better. Hmmm, sound went away, oh
well. I turned the radio back on, and the noise came back! I
repeated this a few times before I concluded that my power antenna was
not shutting off once it reached the top if it's travel. Yech!
Does anyone have any ideas or solutions, besides the $169.50 one?
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 09:44:46 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cam removal for performance grind...
Complication depends on your skill level
They are overhead cams, so you will need to remove the timing chains.
The DeLorean is a 12V motor, so there is only one cam per bank.
Make sure your cam grinder knows that the DeLorean is ODD FIRE, The
PRV-V6 has been produced in both odd and even fire configurations.
Please share your results with the list.
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron King [mailto:floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 7:59 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cam removal for performance grind...
I am going to get the cams in my engine a performance grind, and I was
wondering if removing them (and reinstalling them) is too difficult for
a beginning to intermediate mechanic.
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:11:59 -0000
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
Sacha,
You're quite right in assuming that water is not circulating. You can
be sure by checking the radiator pipes under the front of the car,
which I'm sure are cold even when the engine is overheating.
Most likely you have air in the cooling system that must be bled out.
Now might be a good time to get one of the Magic Bleeding Systems from
your favorite vendor, or you'll have to do it the hard way: bleed a
little from the thermostat, wait for the engine to cool, dump
collected fluid back in, repeat.
If your relays are in the stock configuration, then the cooling fans
are not supposed to come on with the A/C. My car was modified to do
this, but I'm not sure if the FanZilla does this as well.
Your fans should come on if you ground the signal wire of the
otterstat (I think...pretty sure).
You don't need 12V on your water pump, it is driven by a belt! And
frankly, you don't need the cooling fans that much, either. As long
as the car keeps moving, I've never needed the fans to kick on unless
the A/C was running. You will need the fans, but bleeding the air out
is the more immediate problem.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Sacha Prins <sprins@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm experiencing cooling problems with my new DeLorean. It overheats
> 10 minutes just idling...
> - The fans never turn on (even when I turn on the AC).
> - I doupt the water pump works at all...
[moderator snip]
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:21:55
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
Sacha,
I just went through the same thing. My delorean wasn't cooling right either.
I drained and flushed the coolent, replaced the thermostat, (it was stuck
closed), Refilled the coolent with prestone silver antifreeze then purged
the system of air. very important, air builds up in the thermostat housing,
and can cause an air lock.
I checked my fans too, they wern't coming on either so we pulled the wires
from the thermol switch located in the left side engine compartment , Then
made a jumper wire, plugged the wire into each wire from the switch. turn on
the car and the fans came on. They should also come on with the A/C.
In my case someone was playing with the wireing in the relay area and
wired one of the diodes backwards. which caused the fans not to come on.
That should be a good start.
Ryan- vin.#16301
>From: Sacha Prins <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Cooling problems
>Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:48:14 +0200
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm experiencing cooling problems with my new DeLorean. It overheats in
>10 minutes just idling. This makes me believe the cooling system doesn't
>work at all.
[mod snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 15:11:23 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Latest DeLorean CLub of Oregon newsletter posted
The latest issue of the DeLorean Club of Oregon Newsletter has been
posted and is available at http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_back.htm
Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:39:39 EDT
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Dead Market?
Good cars sell for good prices only to good buyers. The task, if you have a good car, is to find a good buyer and they exist regardless of economy. The internet specialty sites may work to get the car sold at a less than good price. If your car, whatever it is, is as good as you say, spend $500 to $1000 and put it in DuPont Registry where serious and qualified buyers look. If it is a parts car, go the eBay route and take what you can get and run.
Fred
6894
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:48:41 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
Some interesting stats based on the currently posted ads at
www.dmcnews.com:
Currently there are 49 ads posted, all have appeared since January 1.
46 of the ads have an average price of 17,500, with a median of
16,900. Highest is 25,000, lowest is 11,800. (I left out the one for
$65K Australian). No way to tell what has sold at what price,
sometimes the posters tell me, sometimes they don't. It's probably
safe to assume that the actual selling prices are a few percent lower
than asking prices.
The other 3 are for non-running "project or parts" cars, with an
average price of $7600.
The thing that interests me is the quantity available, This
represents 100 cars per year coming onto the market via this forum, a
pretty small percentage of the cars out there but maybe a large
number for a relatively limited-interest vehicle. If you look in any
of the other common ad places (Hemmings, AutoTrader etc) the numbers
are similar (Some are the same cars!).
In any case, the law of supply and demand is what determines the
selling price of such things, not any artificial setting of prices.
It is very difficult for any small group of people to drastically
influence an entire collector-car (or most any other) market. Maybe
eBay is the "purest" forum, but I suspect that the low-priced cars on
ebay are actually overpriced for condition, and often sold to people
who don't know any better. This is sad, because they end up
disappointing someone. I've never seen one there that was such a
fantastic deal that I would go running for my checkbook.
It's also interesting to note that several of the DeLorean vendors
have told of significant demand for well-restored, warranted cars in
the upper 20Ks to lower 30Ks, enough to keep them busy.
At any rate, the most significant issue right now is probably, as
David T pointed out, the economy. People will definitely defer
optional luxury items such as this during uncertain times.
Not sure what else to conclude, I'm sure there will be more
discussion.
Dave Swingle
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 18:06:58 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tach to Speed chart
There is a chart at this address, but it only
goes to 85 mph. It does tell you numbers you
can multiply by to convert rpms to mph, though.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/rpm2mph.html
1st gear - 6.50 mph per 1000 RPM
2nd gear - 10.63 mph per 1000 RPM
3rd gear - 15.84 mph per 1000 RPM
4th gear - 20.71 mph per 1000 RPM
5th gear - 26.63 mph per 1000 RPM
John Yeoman
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 18:11:01 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
After you get your fans & water pump working,
get a self bleeder from DMC Joe, and if you
can afford it at that time, a fanzilla.
These two additions will help keep your cooling
system working properly.
John Yeoman
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 14:12:07 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Meet
Last Reminder -
Arrangements have been made for excellent weather in Canada
DATE: weekend of June 16,2001
PLACE: London, Ontario, Canada
WHAT: show and shine and get together, includes a cruise around town, park and show Saturday in the Park, Sat nite dinner, dance, Sunday car show late in the day (over 250 cars)
COST/ REGISTRATION: zero, zip, nothing - you pay for your own lodging, meals, etc.
FREEBIES: souvenir patio glass custom printed for this event to all who show, and a casino bucket with goodies, promo stuff, etc.
CONTACT: me
Marvin Stein
vin #4239
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
res: 519 - 438 - 7174
cell: 519 - 852 - 1667
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
web: printeddrinkware.com
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 19:08:39
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 4th speed fan switch
I know this might sound silly, but the fourth speed on my fan doesn't work.
1. Could this be a bad switch?
2. could this be a bad fan motor?
3. any other ideas this could be?
Thanks for any help!
Ryan- vin.#16301
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 15:29:48 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rain leak
I have the same thing even though I have all new door seals.
Vin 2850
Joseph Molino
----- Original Message -----
From: <jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 7:14 PM
Subject: [DML] rain leak
>
> well the car was outside today and we had some pretty average rain.
>
> i've got a leak, but doesn't seem to be the door seals, in fact i
> thought it was the windshield, but it doesnt seem like water could
> get up under the ridge.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 15:35:07 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
Dear Sacha,
Try bleeding the system first. If there are air pockets in the lines, the
coolant cannot circulate and therefore would not trip the fans (they are
thermostatically controlled). Try this first.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 7:48 AM
Subject: [DML] Cooling problems
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm experiencing cooling problems with my new DeLorean. It overheats in
> 10 minutes just idling. This makes me believe the cooling system doesn't
> work at all.
>
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:33:42 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 4th speed fan switch
make sure the knob is on the right way first.
Joseph M.
vin 2850
[quote snipped by moderator]
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:30:48 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cam removal for performance grind...
DOH! I meant to say it is a single cam...one cam on each bank...not
dual on one bank...sorry
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, srubano@xxxx wrote:
> The Delorean is a Dual cam. Removing the cams will require the
> removal of the following items: The rocker arms, cylinder heads
> (since you have the remove the head bolts to remove the rocker arm
> assembly), timing chain cam sprocket, air intake assembly and other
> small misc. things. You will then have to re-set all the timing's
[snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:31:03 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
In a message dated 6/12/01 9:46:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< should I put 12V directly on
the individual fans and the 12V connection on the waterpump? >>
Sacha,
What do you mean by putting a 12V connection on the waterpump? It works
by turning with the belt from the crank pulley. If you tried tripping the
otterstat switch that is on the drivers side cooling line, and the fans still
don't go on, then there has to be a problem either at the fans themselves or
in the electrical compartment. Maybe you still have that blue relay in
there. If you do, you must remove that and put in that "temporary" wire
modification to make the fans go on.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:33:14 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Reluctant downshift.
It does sounds like you need your shift linkage adjusted. Procedures
on how to perform the adjustment are in the workshop manual. If the
plastic clutch line were the culprit, you would have grinding when
going into gears. You may want to take the car back to the shop the
did the clutch replacement. When my local DeLorean mechanic replaced
the clutch, they of course had to drop the tranny. But when they put
it back in, the two mechanics had my car on the lift and shifted thru
all gears (with the engine running)to check the linkage adjustment.
But since you replaced the shift assembly, you would need to
naturally need to perform an adjustment anyhow.
One quick question: How exactly did your shift assembly break? While
it is a part that does see frequent use, I don't imagine that it has
a good deal of stress put onto it's parts.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 15:41:12 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cam removal for performance grind...
You don't need to remove the timing chains if you have the proper tool to
hold the timing chain gears in place after removing the bolts that attach
them to the cam. You will have to remove the heads as the cam goes through
each head. Remember that the cams are surface hardened and your grinder must
know what he's doing or you'll end up with soft cams. Experiance would be
the rule of thumb here.
Bruce Benson
> Complication depends on your skill level
>
> They are overhead cams, so you will need to remove the timing chains.
> The DeLorean is a 12V motor, so there is only one cam per bank.
>
> Make sure your cam grinder knows that the DeLorean is ODD FIRE, The
> PRV-V6 has been produced in both odd and even fire configurations.
>
>
> Please share your results with the list.
>
> Marc
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:39:27 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 4th speed fan switch
In a message dated 6/12/01 4:25:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I know this might sound silly, but the fourth speed on my fan doesn't work.
1. Could this be a bad switch?
2. could this be a bad fan motor?
3. any other ideas this could be?
>>
Ryan,
If its just 4th speed, then I think it might be the relay that controls
the 4th speed that is bad. Since 3rd and 4th speeds are controlled by
separate relays, I would swap those 2 relays and then see if 4th speed works
and 3rd doesn't. If that happens then replace that relay and you will be
fine.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:30:11 -0000
From: sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
Thanks DMC Joe and others who responded to my question,
I may have forgotten one tiny detail about the car, it has been
garaged for 8 years so things might have gotten stuck in the meantime.
Furthermore I just found out (through a FanZilla leaflet) that the
FanFailBypass was wrongfully connected (previous owner mistake?). This
probably caused the otterstat trick to fail which I tried this
afternoon. Tomorrow I'll (again, with correct FanFail wiring) try the
otterstat trick, and if that still doesn't work I'll try shorting the
FanRelay and FanFix contacts to give my fans juice (individually),
just to hear the fans spin.
Then I'll try to install the DMC Joe self-bleeding-kit which I still
have laying around. This may be a bit tricky since the BAE turbo kit
which is installed on the engine is a bit in the way.
My guess however is that the thermostat may be stuck (from 8 years
storage) causing the free flow of coolant to be obstructed, I'm
wondering how probable this is, and how problematic this may be. Can
the thermostat/pump be repaired or would I then need a new thermostat?
I'm guessing the pump usually lasts a lifetime.
Sacha
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Sacha,
>
> It is extremely unlikely that your water pump
> is not circulating coolant through your cooling
> system unless the drive belt is detached.
[moderator snip]
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________________________________________________________________________
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