Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: rough running and gas
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Purchased Delorean 4912 - alarm activates
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. RE: Re: Purchased Delorean 4912 - alarm activates
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
4. wiper motor question
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: startig problem
From: Cory Whitehead <carman@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: rough running and gas
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. OFF TOPIC: first Bricklin ever built for sale!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. GMC DeLorean
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Stainless Steel Facias
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Eurofest
From: ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
11. British DMLers
From: ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
12. (unknown)
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Eurofest.
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: rough running and gas
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. Rust Problem.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
16. Briklin / Delorean event
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
17. Stainless show and shine
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Bricklin International Gathering XXVI
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Rust Problem.
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. still clonking
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Rust Problem.
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
22. To spray or not to spray that is the question....?
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx
23. painting louver
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Rust Problem.
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 23:48:31 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rough running and gas
I have a really wacky idea that has just popped into my head (you know how
those things are). On top of that, being not 100% certain on the fuel
injection system, this may not even be possible. But anyway, if some (or
all) of the injectors are misfunctioning in that they allow too much fuel to
enter the cylinders to be burned, you will get (1) poor gas mileage and (2)
a poor running - ie rich - engine. Now the reasons for this to occur could
be numerous, but possibly the injectors are misadjusted allowing fuel at a
lower pressure than normal to open the valve, the injectors are simply
leaking, the fuel distributor is allowing more fuel to pass to the injectors
for each pulse, too high a fuel pressure, and I am sure there are other
reasons.
Is there anyone else out there that could verify that these possibilities
are just that? Even if this doesn't help Joe out, I am interested to know
if these reasons are legitimate.
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
> >While driving I occasionally get a jerking, or jolting, or not smooth
> >accelerating. I feels like its not getting gas, and then I press on the
> >gas and it goes rapidly, or accelerates very rough.
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 00:44:53 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Purchased Delorean 4912 - alarm activates
Silas,
David is right on the money with his comment: ". It will probably
cost more to troubleshoot and understand your alarm then to remove it
and install a new one."
Over the years we have found it to be far more cost effective to completely remove any previously installed alarm system and all of the added wiring as opposed to trying to resurrect a previously installed system.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: deloreanservices.com
DMC.tv is in your future.....
----- Original Message -----
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 9:27 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Purchased Delorean 4912 - alarm activates
My best advice to you if you cannot get the documentation for the
alarm or the installation would be to carefully dissect the entire
alarm out of the car. The alarms that you can install today are far
superior to anything you probably have in the car. It will probably
cost more to troubleshoot and understand your alarm then to remove it
and install a new one. After a couple of years you generally cannot
get support for old alarms and if they didn'
don't know where to start. Unless you are going to use it as a daily
driver or you live in a large city you don't even need it anyway. A
good battery master switch will keep it from getting robbed and the
car cannot be "slim jimmed" open like a conventional car. The alarm
was not a factory install but the selling dealer may have done it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 07:54:00 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Purchased Delorean 4912 - alarm activates
For what its worth department, re the shutoff on the alarms....I have it in
two cars that are aftermarket and different brand names......They are both
with the remote start and door locks etc. On the DeLorean you can
deactivate it by flipping that special toggle switch on and off FOUR
times.....On the other car (a Lincoln) it is deactivated by turning the
ignition switch to ON, flip the switch to OFF, shut the ignition OFF and
then that switch back ON...mine has a RED LED that becomes intermittent
when it is activated but goes off when it is normal.
Murray Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 03:14:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: wiper motor question
Hi guys,
Tomorrow's the last day of our extended weekend, and I was hoping to get
this wiper motor installed. I know a lot of our guys are in Ireland (lucky
bums!) and the moderating team has done a great job getting the emails out
to the list, but I was really hoping that someone might have a second to
clue me in to accessing the motor.
If you're still in Europe, don't bother taking the time to respond, as I
know what the dialup rates are overseas. :)
Happy Memorial Day to everyone!
-Christian
-The only DeLorean registerd in the state of California as a GMC.
(thanks to the brilliant folks at the DMV)
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 11:22:33 -0400
From: Cory Whitehead <carman@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: startig problem
Hiya Mike!
Sorry I haven't been in touch lately, but I'm workin workin workin!
Seeing this got me motivated to getting in touch and seeing if I can
help.........
How's it hooked up? Obviously, you're getting fuel, otherwise the car wouldn't
even fire up......but I know some fuel pumps make a lot of noise when they're
not getting an awful lot of fuel........some even do it right before they run
dry.
When the car dies, does it 'feel' like lack of fuel? If you've been lucky,
you don't know what that feels like (I do)
Does it sputter and die? How's the idle (for what you get)?
So.....driving the Supra, but just to work and back....running 20W50 in
it.........corn syrup for your car!
A life changing experience is in store for August, but we're not sure exactly
when.....it's not all planned out yet.
How's life with you two? Still morning man? Is the new place nice? And
what about the OPP? I never did follow up to see what happened there..........
Anyhow, working nights, so I'm off to snooze for awhile. Keep me posted, and
fill me in on anything else about the car, ok? It's a common automotive malady,
not just a DeLorean one, so who knows how I can help?
--Cory
Mike Cutting wrote:
> hi group..
>
> well, i know that a problem similar to mine was just posted recently, but i
> checked around and couldn't find the thread. sorry to revive this but, what
> can you do?
>
> last week, my fuel pump went. i ordered a new one. the new pump works
> after a fashon. it makes a very loud whining noise (the old pump made some
> noise but not very loud) and the car will only run for a second or so. then
> it dies. any thoughts?
>
> MIke Cutting
> 11434
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 15:58:56 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: rough running and gas
You are correct that malfunctioning injectors would cause rough
running. It would be most noticeable at idle (as a hunting condition)
and less noticeable under acceleration or high RPM's. In general it is
not a problem with the pressure settings of the injectors although if
they are not all close it does cause the hunting at idle. The main
thing that occurs to the injectors is that the spray pattern is bad
due to dirt particles either in the exit port or on the outer surface.
Usually they can be cleaned up either with a fuel additive or by
removing them and flushing them in the injector tester. In my
experience when you have a problem under high loads (like
accelerating) then the secondary ignition system is breaking down
under the high load. In all likelyhood a set of ignition wires and
spark plugs will fix it right up in this case. On the subject of
hunting at idle, I have seen many cars with good parts or just
installed and they still hunt. On my car all of the fuel injectors are
very close in their pressures and I think that is why after my car
warms up it doesn't hunt hardly at all. There is no way to adjust the
injectors themselves but a though flushing in an injector tester will
usually restore them to factory settings.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a really wacky idea that has just popped into my head (you
know how
> those things are). On top of that, being not 100% certain on the
fuel
> injection system, this may not even be possible. But anyway, if
some (or
> all) of the injectors are misfunctioning in that they allow too much
fuel to
> enter the cylinders to be burned, you will get (1) poor gas mileage
and (2)
> a poor running - ie rich - engine. Now the reasons for this to
occur could
> be numerous, but possibly the injectors are misadjusted allowing
fuel at a
> lower pressure than normal to open the valve, the injectors are
simply
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 12:29:22 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: OFF TOPIC: first Bricklin ever built for sale!
Hey all,
i know this is pretty much off topic, but for you gullwing fans, there's a
guy on ebay who's selling his Bricklin SV-1, VIN#0001. He states that it is
the first Bricklin built and it was driven by Malcolm Bricklin, as well as
appearing on the Tonight Show with Johnny Carson. just thought someone might
be interested in taking a look at it!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591683776
andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 09:35:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: GMC DeLorean
Christian Williams said:
> -The only DeLorean registerd in the state of
> California as a GMC.
> (thanks to the brilliant folks at the DMV)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
When I first insured my DeLorean with the Hartford
(through AARP) the folks there kept referring it to a
special model of Ford! I don't know if they ever got
it straight, but they have since paid a claim on it so
I guess I don't have to worry.
Anybody have a Studebaker or Nash DMC???
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 01:07:41 -0700
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Steel Facias
Sorry it has been a wile since i've posted. much has happened persnally that has kept me from it. however i will be delivering my front and rear facias to the fabricator this weekend so he can make a mock-up of them to "OK". he said the prices can be reasonable if we have an initial order of 10 then order in quantities of 5 after that. i will be posting soon on the progress and price. i have had a major computer crash, so all of you that have expressed interest, please e-mail me back so i can have a preliminary list. this is not a comittment, just a crude estimate! he also will be forming many other parts out of SS for me, so if you ever wanted to have a special part, now is the time to try for it. he seems eager to try!
skipper Landry
www.sk1pper.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 02:06:25 +0800
From: ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Eurofest
Hallo DMLers,
Well we knew it was going to be a good one ... but man did Robert Lamrock
pull out all the stops for this Show ... IT WAS AMAZING!
We had drives around the country, museum visits, photos & dinner at
Stormount Parliament building (a real treat), test-track circuits, trips to
Giants Causeway, Whiskey sampling at Bushmills, Grand DMCers Dinner, beers
with like-minded DMCers, and fun,fun,fun!
If you had thought about attending and couldn't kick yourself now.
There have been a few newspaper articles about the Show, once I'm back in
Hong Kong I can scan them and forward them for someone(volunteers?!) to Post
on a website. Articles include:-
26May : 'Newsletter' nice photo of parked cars at the Cultra museum.
27May : 'Ireland on Sunday' 1/2page with photos of me (ah fame!) at
Stormount, Dutch couple & bambino, and photo of John Z DeLorean.
28May : 'Belfast Telegraph' colour photo of cars beautifully lined up at
Stormount (Chris Parnham will like this one!!!).
Later : My local N.Ireland paper wants to print a photo and article!
Cheers, IAN
**********************
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 02:19:13 +0800
From: ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: British DMLers
Hi British DMLers,
Can Chris Parnham and Mike Hooper please email me off List at
ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I need to contact you DMLers in Britain before I leave for HongKong at the
end of the week. I do not have your contact details with me here, please
forward a tel.#
Cheers, IAN
********************
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 19:26:45
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (unknown)
Hey list,
I have been having overheating problems with my DMC. I have a new
Thermostat, In case it is stuck closed. I Just changed the coolent Useing
Prestone silver. It is phospate free. I purged the system of air. Well it
seems as I got all of it out. I opened the bleeder on the thermostat
houseing and the small upper radiator line in the passinger front. I started
up the car and it reached 220 degreese and kept rising!
First the Fans never kicked on but the enging and the coolent lines all
around it were hot. (maybe an air bubble, or bad thermo switch). The
radiator was stone cold like there's no circulation. I know the lines are
clean and the fluid flows good because I flushed out the system. Could this
be a bad water pump? Any ideas? Any thing would be great! Thank you!
Ryan- vin.#16301
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 20:35:22 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Eurofest.
For Dave Santos..email address acting up!
Dave,
The Photo "The Delorean Club of the UK Welcome us"
As you say,
I'm on the left (when viewed from the front),
Next is Mark Bourne,
next is Garry Hewitt from Australia,
Then Dave Howarth ,
lastly Chris Sprat...
Hope that helps They did not even have time to "attend the washroom for 10 hrs!!!
..good to see you and the rest of our overseas visitors,..more later,,
Chris Parnham.
BTW Dusty now safely home....mileage up to 430 !!!!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 15:39:03 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: rough running and gas
Sean, The fuel system is like a football team playing. All have to be there
and working properly to make the play. If you take all the team players in
the fuel injection system and line them up from the fuel screen to the
injector, then what your looking for is the weak link or the trouble part out
if the several players in between. The fuel injection system is comprised of
many players. The injectors are mechanical with no adjustment ( linemen and
told what to do). The only thing that opens the injectors is fuel pressure
and the fuel flowing to them via the control plunger in the fuel distributor
which is adjusted up or down by the air low meter and the control pressure
regulator. This is a very balanced system and to often the injectors are
looked upon to be the problem but there not. They open and close as told.
There are several things in the fuel system which effect the pressure. Weak
fuel pump, clogged up filter, mis adjusted pressure regulator, gas lines
crimped, bad gaskets in the fuel distributor and I'm sure other thing but
most of the time would be the adjustment of the air flow sensor plate. If the
02 sensor is operating correct and the control plunger isn't sticking and as
best you can't tell the pressure is ok, Then adjust the air flow sensor
plate. This would be my 1st thing to do after analizing the system.
One thing about cars being stored, If stablizer isn't used and it becomes
time to crank it up a little varnish could have formed and a can of B12 run
thru the gas may unstick the parts. The control plunger would be the main
unit.
I have several books and articles on the K Jetronic system. It's not hard to
understand the system but all the players have to be right.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 19:48:32 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Rust Problem.
In January I had my entire clutch system replaced. One component was
a defective clutch master cylinder that leaked DOT-4 onto my chassis.
About 3 months ago I was driving home from a friend's house one
evening when the pavement on the higway turned white for almost a
mile. When I got home the 11 o'clock news had a story on that there
had been a hazardous waste spill on the highway. Something about a
truck had spilled some sort of zinc-oxide waste from a local
powerplant. Sure enough when I went out into the garage I had the
white/gray-ish gunk still sticking to the bottom of my car. At the
time I did the best I could to wipe the stuff off.
Fast forward to last week.
My speedometer stopped working due to a worn speedo cup. When I
removed the tire to replace the cup, I noticed a fairly good blanket
of rust covering the chassis that had been exposed. It's only rained
once here in the time since, but my car wasn't out in the storm. So
my questions are these:
1. Where else should I start looking for rust? (when I get the
chance, I'll probably remove the access panel to the gas tank to have
a look around there).
2. How difficult is it to work with POR-15? (are there any tips out
there that any one can give me?)
3. What exactly is this zinc stuff? I know that the DML is host to
many owners that come from all professions, so I didn't know if
someone out there might know not only what this stuff is, but what it
can do. Since it was considered hazardous, could the epoxy
undercoating be compromised (called the news station, and they were
no help).
Thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:47:25 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Briklin / Delorean event
The following is an invite for us to join the Briklin group in cleveland this
year as they did for us last year
Sounds like a lot of fun so if you want to do it all again or missed last
year here is a chance to catch Cleveland again.
<<<Hi Ken!
Bricklin International is finalizing our plans for BIG XXVI. I appreciate
the information & ideas you gave me concerning what was done for last year's
Delorean meet. As a result of your ideas, we've put together a number of
events in the Greater Cleveland Area. Our Concourse d'Elegance will be at the
Nautica Entertainment Complex on the West Bank of the Flats.
A number of our members suggested that we invite our gull-wing brethren
to join us, so I'd like to extend an open invitation to you and your club
members to join us for our Friday rally (and picnic which follows) as well as
our show on Saturday. We have about 100 spaces available for the event - only
30 to 40 of which should be taken up by our club members. Would you be so
kind as to spread the word to your organization? We'd love to have you attend!
Details for the meet can be found at <A HREF="" href="http://www.bricklins.net/">http://www.bricklins.net/">http://www.Bricklins.net</A> (follow the
links to BIG XXVI). I would be happy to address any questions you may have.
Michael V. Mitchell
<A HREF="" href="http://www.bricklins.net/">http://www.bricklins.net/">http://www.Bricklins.net</A>
<A HREF="" href="http://www.bricklin.org/">http://www.bricklin.org/">http://www.Bricklin.org</A>
<A HREF="" href="mailto:MeetDirector@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">mailto:MeetDirector@xxxxxxxxxxxxx">mailto:MeetDirector@xxxxxxxxxxxxx</A>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:54:19 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless show and shine
REMINDER:
Stainless Show and Shine
June 15, 16, 17, 2001
London, Ontario, Canada
INEXPENSIVE WEEKEND IN CANADA - EH!
( about 150 miles from Detroit)
YOUR USA DOLLAR IS WORTH ABOUT $1.50 CANADIAN.
Saturday -
short cruise the downtown area
show and shine in the park
dinner, dance , socialize
Sunday
rod and custom get together -
over 200 cars usually attend every week@ no cost
NO REGISTRATION OR FEES------ but I need a count for freebies
(all attending will receive a free custom printed souvenir cup)
Marvin Stein
vin 4239
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 17:22:54 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bricklin International Gathering XXVI
List
Please don't start up a Bricklin thread, but I do know that there is a lot of common interest among our list-members. Maybe a good excuse to go back to Cleveland this summer.
He neglected to put in the post exactly WHEN it is, but I presume it's on his website.
Dave Swingle
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael V. Mitchell
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 12:00 PM
Subject: Bricklin International Gathering XXVI
Greetings!
Bricklin International is finalizing our plans for BIG XXVI - our annual National Meet. As a result, we've put together a number of events in the Greater Cleveland Area. Our Concourse d'Elegance will be at the Nautica Entertainment Complex on the West Bank of the Flats.
A number of our members suggested that we invite our gull-wing brethren to join us, so I'd like to extend an open invitation to you and your club members to join us for our Friday rally (and picnic which follows) as well as our show on Saturday. We have about 100 spaces available for the event - only 30 to 40 of which should be taken up by our club members. Would you be so kind as to spread the word to your organization? We'd love to have you attend!
Details for the meet can be found at http://www.Bricklins.net (follow the links to BIG XXVI). I would be happy to address any questions you may have.
Michael V. Mitchell
http://www.Bricklins.net
http://www.Bricklin.org
mailto:MeetDirector@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 23:47:08
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rust Problem.
From what I know of POR-15. It is rather simple to work with. You must clean
off therust first, wire brush, sandblast, what ever it takes. then spray the
por-15 on then apply some paint then undercoating to protect the frame. I
have to do this to mine because my clutch slave cylinder is leaking and
peeling the paint off the frame. Nasty stuff that Dot-4. Well good luck!
Ryan.
>From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Rust Problem.
>Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 19:48:32 -0000
>
>In January I had my entire clutch system replaced. One component was
>a defective clutch master cylinder that leaked DOT-4 onto my chassis.
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 23:48:56 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: still clonking
hello list,
You may remember my post about a clonking noise on the front wheels.
I had a lower ball joint put in and it still clonks.
So I jacked up the wheel drivers side as this is where the sound
comes from and shook the wheel up and down and side to side It
would,nt make the sound!
I looked at the bushings and swaybar bushes and although they don't
look great there does not appear to be any play at all.
With the wheels lowered in there normal state though,If you pull the
wheels about both sides I can hear a slight clonking the same sound
when I drive.
Could this be a steering problem?
Bear in mind that the clonking sound only happens when you go over
bumps in the road,on nice flat roads you can't hear it.
Help please.
Paul UK(where flat roads are few)
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 00:00:06 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rust Problem.
Hi Robert,
For question 1: Check the front crumple tubes, the front shock
towers, in the gas tank area, rear shock towers, right below the
engine mounts and also the area where the Transmision is. You may
also want to remove the rubber plugs that are located in the rear of
the chassis on the opposite sides of the shock tower (on the sides of
the engine one on each side). Be careful removing the plugs as they
have a tendancy to fall in. Rust usually forms in that cavity. If
there is any rust in there...then you are going to need very long
screw drivers, needle nose pliers and a lot of patience to scrape all
the old flaking epoxy out of there.
For question 2: I had my entire chassis sandblasted and I painted the
entire thing using POR-15. You can paint over the rust but here is
what I would do:
1. Scrape back all the epoxy surrounding the rust until you start to
see "shiny" metal, then stop scraping. Rust can travel under the
epoxy so it won't do any good if the rust is still under the epoxy
when you paint it with POR-15.
2. Scrape/sand down all the loose rust.
3. POR-15 makes a product called "Metal ready". If you spray it onto
the affected area and let it sit for 15 minutes (or whatever the
bottle says) then hose it off, it's suppose to neutralize any rust
left, prep any new metal exposed and leave a zinc primer/coating on
the metal so that the POR-15 will adhere to it a lot better.
4. Paint the POR-15 on with a brush, try not to thin it out. It will
be very watery and a small can goes a long way. Make sure you pour
out only a little at a time into a disposable container and use it
from that disposable container, seal the lid on the can ASAP. The
stuff dries with moisture/humidity so if you paint your chassis by
dipping the brush into the can it comes in and leaving the top off
too long, it will begin to harden. MAKE SURE you WEAR gloves and if
it's not to hot wear long sleeves! If it gets on your skin and you
don't wash it off ASAP, you will be wearing it for a few days. Also
paint in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing in the fumes. Use
disposable brushes, you don't want the hassle of washing out the
brushes, just throw them away. This stuff dries rock hard but it
remains very flexible. Brush it in thin coats, don't go over the same
area you just painted twice and apply at least 3 coats (wait for it
to dry to a tacky finish before applying the next coat). If you are
going to use the black POR-15, then you will want to top coat it with
some other paint. They say that the black is UV light sensitive and
turns a dull finish...it dosen't affect the paint itself just the
finish. If you use the Grey, then you won't have to top coat it. You
can get more info from www.por15.com or you can send me an email and
I'll try to help you out as best as I can.
> 1. Where else should I start looking for rust? (when I get the
> chance, I'll probably remove the access panel to the gas tank to
have
> a look around there).
>
> 2. How difficult is it to work with POR-15? (are there any tips out
> there that any one can give me?)
>
> 3. What exactly is this zinc stuff? I know that the DML is host to
> many owners that come from all professions, so I didn't know if
> someone out there might know not only what this stuff is, but what
it
> can do. Since it was considered hazardous, could the epoxy
> undercoating be compromised (called the news station, and they were
> no help).
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 01:00:43 -0000
From: noflux@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: To spray or not to spray that is the question....?
Hello,
I searched the archives but I couldn't find the answers I needed. My
facias are in need of painting (I know you cant believe it LOL) but I
would like to paint them my self.
Im on a limited budget and I'm thinking that "GUN METAL GRAY" is the
closest color match to the factory paint, available in spay paint. I
refinished my rims using a spay paint process and they look great,
but I am very nervous about doing my facias. (If anyone needs the
process and the color combo's for the rims let me know)
If anyone has redone there facias with spay paint please let me know
how it turned out. Also any tips you might have for painting the
facias would be much appreciated.
Thanks
God Bless...
1982 DEC-81 Build
Living the Dream and It only took me 17 Years to do it =)
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 21:24:53 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: painting louver
Hello,
My window louver is very faded and I think it is time to paint it. I
bought a can of Bondo bumper black which is very close to the original
color.(I couldnt find Krylon semi-flat black) what should I do before
painting the louver? what do you use to remove the armor-all from it?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
David
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 01:37:34 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rust Problem.
Sorry to hear about that, it just seems like its one thing after
another on your car! About removing the access panel for the gas
tank, I would suggest dropping the tank as well. When I removed mine
last month, I found a good sized area on the inside wall of the frame
under the brake cylinder that had rusted. I chipped away all of the
bubled epoxy to fortunately find only surface rust. I bought the
starter pack of POR-15 and it was pretty strait forward to apply. The
starter pack comes with everything you need for a 12 or 15 sq foot
area. This was more than enough in my case. I painted the rusted
area, and put the gas tank back in. I can only hope its doing what
its supposed to. In an case, good luck tracing down any rust you may
find on your frame.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
> 1. Where else should I start looking for rust? (when I get the
> chance, I'll probably remove the access panel to the gas tank to
have
> a look around there).
>
> 2. How difficult is it to work with POR-15? (are there any tips out
> there that any one can give me?)
> -Robert
> vin 6585
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