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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Ireland Trip 1
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Flight Info tioBelfast
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
4. update to my fuel system problems!!!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
6. RE: starting up
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: starting up
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxxxx>
8. Re: starting up
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: update to my fuel system problems!!!
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
10. Door alignment
From: "Mark DeLoura" <madsax@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Delorean's in NM - or Albuquerque
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Door alignment
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: update to my fuel system problems!!!
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 10:15:08 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ireland Trip 1
Bruce, Marty, and I made it into Dublin, the first leg of our trip to
Belfast. I have not been able to get a relable connection with my
laptop to upload photos to the dmcnews website yet, but am working in it.
I'm sure it will work from London, so if nothing shows up in the next
few days, check next week.
Dave Swingle
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 21:53:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Flight Info tioBelfast
Hey-
Just wondering for you folk that are going to Belfast- if
any of you were going to be on flight 64 (departing 8:20)
out of Atlanta on Wed, May 23 and headed to Manchester?
Maybe we can hook up at the airport- cus I have a LONG
layover!
just email me off of the list if anyone will be on this
flight
Thanks,
Aaron Posey
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 05:15:36 -0000
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, CBL302@xxxx wrote:
,meaning it is a pre-
> production car(the first "sold" car was vin # 000648)you can read a
> article about it at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DeloreaNews/files/DMC%20Misc.Stuff/
> it might just be the first automatic Delorean released to the
general
> public.
>
> Claude
> Vin#000570
My mistake the first Delorean sold to the General Public was
Vin# 000649.
Claude
000570
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 01:57:27 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: update to my fuel system problems!!!
Hey all,
FINALLY i have an update to my troubled car's fuel problems!
here is everything i have done to the car in tracking down my crazy pressure
readings and no-start condition.
1. new fuel pump
2. new upper hoses
3. new baffle parts that were missing in my car
4. drained fuel tank and cleaned it out
5. new lower return pipe and three connectors
6. new fuel filter
7. all new hollow bolts and brass washers for entire engine compartment.
8. 6 new injectors, seals, clips
9. removed air meter assembly for cleaning. lubricated pin inside fuel
distributer.
over the last two days i have reassembled the entire system - i checked it
for leaks then put my fuel pressure tester on it.......... MY PRESSURES ARE
BACK TO WITHIN SPECS!!!!! AFTER THREE MONTHS THEY ARE BACK TO WHERE THEY
SHOULD BE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SO, today i tried to start it. no go. i had my dad assist me in turning the
CO screw (which i know is off) as i tried to start the car but we couldn't
get it right. the best we could do is get the car to start for a few
seconds, run REALLY rough with me constantly pumping the gas pedal and my dad
holding down the air meter plate a little bit. when the car 'ran' like this,
it would back fire very severely. that's the best we could do. but at least
we know i'm getting gas to the cylinders and i'm getting spark. the car is
turning over, cranking and firing, but it just won't run.
with the whole air-meter and backfiring thing - what would this indicate?
what normally causes this? is there anything i should double-check? is this
typical of a messed up CO adjustment? i'm wondering if since i got it this
far, maybe i just need to get my CO set up properly and i should get the car
towed over to a local import shop for tuning.
any ideas?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:11:11 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The upcoming update to the DMC production chronology includes a lot more information on early cars retrieved from some of the corporate records.]
That's odd. I met a gentleman one day who told me that he owns the
first automatic off the production line. I can't remember what the
VIN was, but it was either 507 or 509. He said that he picked it up
directly at the Jersey QAC. The car is only about 3 miles from here.
I'll see what I can find out...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, CBL302@xxxx wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> > Forwarded, no additional info;
> >
> > Dave S
> > ===================
> > Saw a listing on AutoTrader.com for the first automatic Delorean,
> > although I know the first 'engineering use' automatic was
> VIN...515.
> > Says it comes with full documentation. Car looks very good in
> photo.
> > Low mileage (4,800) and looks like the exterior is in "as new"
> shape.
> >
> > Worth a look. Maybe a DML member in the area can take a look.
> > Lauderdale Imports, Ft. Lauderdale, FL VIN SCEDT26T1BD000614
>
> Vin # 000614 is owned by a list member(or is at least in the DML
> Directory),and is a cousin to my vin#00570,meaning it is a pre-
> production car(the first "sold" car was vin # 000648)you can read a
> article about it at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DeloreaNews/files/DMC%20Misc.Stuff/
> it might just be the first automatic Delorean released to the
general
> public.
>
> Claude
> Vin#000570
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 22:48:25 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: starting up
The Post Said ... My D doesn't start anymore, it tries to but never gets
going.
There is also no noise anymore when i first turn the key to
position 3 i think. I mean that 2 second noise you normally hear
before cranking... it seems like there is a problem with the
engine not getting the fuel?
FWIW ... Mine is doing the same thing. Maybe it's going around. When I get
time, I'll check the voltage at the pump and work backwards.
Nick Kemp
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 10:54:26 -0400
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: starting up
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 04:06:50 -0000
> From: scottymckenzie@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: starting up
>
> My D doesn't start anymore, it tries to but never gets going.
> There is also no noise anymore when i first turn the key to
> position 3 i think. I mean that 2 second noise you normally hear
> before cranking... it seems like there is a problem with the
> engine not getting the fuel?
>
my d just had the same problem.. i would check your fuel pump to see if it
is pumping.
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 16:19:55 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: starting up
If you refer to earlier posts of similar problems since #7 is burnt up
someone probably wired in an inline fuseholder to bypass the burnt
connections to your #7 fuse. Look for an inline fuseholder under the
fuse block or nearby. See if it is burnt up or the fuse is blown. Knut
is right in that by offering advice we sometimes guess wildly because
of the limited and or misleading description of symptoms and the lack
of history on the car. In your case I offer some of the more common
things to look for and at least you haven't had to spend any money
yet! As we go on it may get more complicated or expensive but at least
you will have done all of the simple things and maybe got it going
again. This approach is better than the "shotgun" method employed by
even some of the more experienced mechanics in which you start
replacing parts until the car runs! I prefer to diagnose a problem and
repair or replace only what needs to be done. It is MUCH cheaper,
faster, and I get more satisfaction knowing I have fixed the trouble
for good instead of not knowing just what was bad that was replaced? I
have seen in many cases the troubles were just bad connections and the
act of replacing a part in taking the connections apart and together
"fixed" the problems when it wasn't the "bad" part but actually the
connections. When working on a car your eyes and your brain are your
most important tools! There is also nothing wrong in asking for help
as every mechanic either refers to reference materiel or advice from
others when he isn't sure what to do. Only a fool would never ask for
help when he is in over his head!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, scottymckenzie@xxxx wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx wrote:
> > I don't see how anyone could possibly make an accurate diagnosis
of
> a
> > potential problem with a one sentence description indicated by the
> > author that the car doesn't start. I have no idea how Joseph could
> so
a procedure would generally result in needlessly replacing
> > working parts on your car.
> >
> > Knut
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> > >
> > > It is most likely your fuel pump. <SNIP>
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <scottymckenzie@xxxx>
> > > To: <dmcnews@xxxx>
> > > Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 12:06 AM
> > > Subject: [DML] starting up
> > >
> > >
> > > > My D doesn't start anymore, it tries to but never gets going.
> > > <SNIP>
> > >
>
> The car had been working ok for the last month (just got it) and
> i have checked the fuse box, there is no #7 fuse there, looks like
it
> hasn't been there since i got the car (unless it totally melted),
> also the spot where the fuse should have been looks fairly burnt
> or damaged...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 16:30:31 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: update to my fuel system problems!!!
It sounds like you are getting closer! At this point I would look over
the cold start system to see if it is operating. When the car is cold
and first started it is starting primaraly on the cold start valve.
The other thing to do is the mixture screw. It is VERY sensitive and
if it is off the car will run like sh-t. I think your problem is a
combination of the two. This is of course asssuming the ignition
system is functioning correctly. To properly adjust the mixture screw
on an analyzer you have to get the car to keep running so you need to
be close so after you can get the car to run and idle you should go to
a shop and have it set. Remember you must plug the opening to the
mixture screw after you touch it or the air leak ruins the air/fuel
ratio.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> FINALLY i have an update to my troubled car's fuel problems!
>
> here is everything i have done to the car in tracking down my crazy
pressure
> readings and no-start condition.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 10:56:25 -0700
From: "Mark DeLoura" <madsax@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door alignment
Hi listers,
I've had my D for just a few months, and either as a result of hotter
weather or more driving, my doors have become slightly misaligned.
The top of the driver side door is scraping against the T when opened
and grooving the door (aiiieeeee!!!!) The passenger side is also
doing this, but not to the same extent. When closed, the driver door
sits about 1/4-1/2" higher than the T.
The docs indicate that I should loosen the door bolts and pull the
shims. Is this a safe operation to perform without messing with the
torsion rod? I'd like to do this myself but am a bit nervous about
screwing something up.
Thanks!
---Mark
--
Mark DeLoura (home)
Oakland, CA USA
http://www.satori.org
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 14:08:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean's in NM - or Albuquerque
I know there are one or two delorean in NM... one was
in the paper trying to sell it for 40K....
Anybody here know their contact information?
I need to find a place that I can trust to work on
them.. specifically, I need the cooling system fixed,
and the fuel kit from PJ Grady installed, along with
the bleeder kit.... once these things are done, I
think the car will be drivable with no more issues
(knock on wood).
I dont trust just anyone to do it, I've been
researching it and as I pull into different mechanic
shops all I get are idiots "you dont bleed a cooling
system, you bleed a braking system, har har har"..
real idiots, and not the kind of people I want to work
on the car..
And my offer still stands to any competent Delorean
mechanic on the list, if you dont mind spending an all
expense paid trip to NM to do the above repairs, I'll
pay for your stay, and whatever you want for your
time. Also, will pay for you to get here and back.
Mike
Vin 855
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 22:33:36 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
Vin 551 is a black Automatic, belonging to one of our members...its an ex
Saudi car and was literally full of sand! 547 is also a black Auto in
Northern Ireland..we may even see it next weekend!
Chris P DOC UK
----- Original Message -----
From: <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 6:15 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Early Automatic for sale FL
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, CBL302@xxxx wrote:
> ,meaning it is a pre-
> > production car(the first "sold" car was vin # 000648)you can read a
> > article about it at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DeloreaNews/files/DMC%20Misc.Stuff/
> > it might just be the first automatic Delorean released to the
> general
> > public.
> >
> > Claude
> > Vin#000570
>
>
> My mistake the first Delorean sold to the General Public was
> Vin# 000649.
>
> Claude
> 000570
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 21:58:39 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door alignment
It is very likely that it is the T panel that needs to be adjusted,
not the doors. The material under it tends to compress over time,
causing the panel to lie too low relative to the doors. Remove the
panel and place some thin foam sheeting or adhesive weather stripping
between it and the plastic roof. Don't even think about disturbing
the very critical and difficult door adjustments until you have tried
this first.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
At 10:56 AM -0700 5/20/01, Mark DeLoura wrote:
>Hi listers,
>
>I've had my D for just a few months, and either as a result of hotter
>weather or more driving, my doors have become slightly misaligned.
>The top of the driver side door is scraping against the T when opened
>and grooving the door (aiiieeeee!!!!) The passenger side is also
>doing this, but not to the same extent. When closed, the driver door
>sits about 1/4-1/2" higher than the T.
>
>The docs indicate that I should loosen the door bolts and pull the
>shims. Is this a safe operation to perform without messing with the
>torsion rod? I'd like to do this myself but am a bit nervous about
>screwing something up.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 22:14:48 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: update to my fuel system problems!!!
Well, I just completed a water pump replacement on my
previously-perfectly-running engine, and when I first tried starting
up the reassembled engine, I had symptoms very similar to yours.
The problem turned out to be the copper tube that goes from the idle
speed motor to the bottom of the lower air casing. It enters the
casing through an 0 ring and a copper seal on the left front side of
the casing. It needs to be removed in order to remove the casing, and
is tricky to get back in place (see section C:13:01 of the service
manual). Turns out that when replacing mine, I knocked the ring and
seal out of place, causing a massive air leak around the tube. I had
to remove the casing again in order to fix this.
Any chance that this is your problem?
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
>
>SO, today i tried to start it. no go. i had my dad assist me in turning the
>CO screw (which i know is off) as i tried to start the car but we couldn't
>get it right. the best we could do is get the car to start for a few
>seconds, run REALLY rough with me constantly pumping the gas pedal and my dad
>holding down the air meter plate a little bit. when the car 'ran' like this,
>it would back fire very severely. that's the best we could do. but at least
>we know i'm getting gas to the cylinders and i'm getting spark. the car is
>turning over, cranking and firing, but it just won't run.
>
>with the whole air-meter and backfiring thing - what would this indicate?
>what normally causes this? is there anything i should double-check? is this
>typical of a messed up CO adjustment? i'm wondering if since i got it this
>far, maybe i just need to get my CO set up properly and i should get the car
>towed over to a local import shop for tuning.
>
>any ideas?
>Andy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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