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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Stiff clutch pedal
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Volvo valve in air intake
From: Roland Barmettler <roli@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: emblem question
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: oil filters
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: emblem question
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
6. value of used suspension parts?
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Tires
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
8. stiff clutch
From: "DENNIS C. SCHLIECKAU,JR." <dcsj@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Antifreeze
From: DBJCFAM@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Re: oil filters
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
11. temp sending unit wiring
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
12. REPLACEMENT RADIATOR
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. A/C compressor
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: value of used suspension parts?
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. NOSE BRAS for DeLorean: Brand New, Super Heavy Duty
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
16. Re: oil filters
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: oil filters
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
18. DeLorean clutch vs. other cars.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
19. Coolant Change
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
20. 88mph question (seriously)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: emblem question
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
22. Re: A/C compressor
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
23. Re: temp sending unit wiring
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
24. Re: oil filters
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
25. Re: Coolant Change
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 07:39:31 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stiff clutch pedal
In my other world (Corvairs), the trucks had very stiff clutch pedals.
The pedal return spring was the cause. A trip to the local hardware
store for a friendlier spring put it on par with regular clutch
pedals.. Those are coil springs, the one on the D looks like a wrap
around type...still there may be a kinder version out there. Try
disconnecting the spring (LOL) to see if that's your problem. Still,
it's a cheap workout (shifting into reverse, using the clutch, and
steering), would cost you big bucks at the local gym for the same
thing. We are so lucky!
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:53:57 +0200
From: Roland Barmettler <roli@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Volvo valve in air intake
Hi list
Thanks to everyone giving me hints.
DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> If you are looking to keep your car stock, or you live/operate your
> car in a cold climate, you're best to leave the assembly in place. If
> you're looking for little things you can do to help your car out,
> this may be one of them.
If the climate here (Switzerland) stays the way it is right now,
I'd better leave that valve where it is! ;-)
Greetings,
Roland
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roland Barmettler - roli@xxxxxxxxxxx - http://www.DeLorean.ch - VIN #11512
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:02:20 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: emblem question
Kurt;
Only the 83's and some 82's had the DeLorean emblem on the hood, but this is just a stick on accessory and can be easily placed there.
Scott
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:41:00
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: oil filters
Oh, Well every one was saying that it should have a valve and if thats true
than there is two other filters that you can use that no one has talked
about the "mann" filter and the "mahle" filter they are both german and you
can buy them buy the case rather cheep, Volkswagen uses them.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:07:31 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: emblem question
Kurt:
From what I have read & observed, all 83's and most 82's, except for
some very early ones, have the hood emblem. DMC Houston sells
these emblems and some owners have purchased them to stick on the
hoods of their 81's.
No 1981 models left the factory with this hood emblem.
John Yeoman
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:20:30 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: value of used suspension parts?
Hello all,
I'm planning on getting Rob Grady's suspension upgrade (2 front springs,
all 4 shocks). Is there a market or any interest in the original parts I'm
replacing? What's the estimated value they might have? They all have only
22,000 miles on them and are all in fine working order - I just want to
lower the car and upgrade the suspension.
Thanks,
-Hank #1619
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:45:21 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tires
Based on my experience the Pirelli tires make the car ride firm. The
Yokohama AVS intermediate make the car ride smoother than the Goodyear NCT's.
There is a new Michelin Pilot tire that Harold McElraft had on his
DeLorean at last weekends show.
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
VIN 3713
DOA 4743
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:11:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "DENNIS C. SCHLIECKAU,JR." <dcsj@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: stiff clutch
I replaced may clutch a couple years ago with the centerforce upgrade.
Rob Grady told me that the reason the original clutches get stiff is because
the flexplate fingers work harden with age and heat. My OEM clutch was very
stiff and when you depressed the pedal w/engine off, would squeak and grown
pretty loud. Now with the new clutch and properly lubricating the clutchfork
pivot, all is quiet but still firm albeit easier than the one I took out.
A note about the Centerforce clutch. Many people think it is manufactered
differently from the OEM. Its NOT! All Centerforce does is take the OEM
Valeo clutch and add a set weight blocks to the flexplate fingers. When the
clutch is spinning, it provides more leverage in the opposite direction that
the clutch fork is aplying when you trying to release the clutch when
shifting. This also explains why centerforce calls them a Stage I. They only
claim 30% more gripping force than OEM. You also get a more positive clutch
engagment or you can call it the all or nothing feel when pushing the pedal.
At the cleveland show I had a chance to trade rides with Marty Meier and
drive his car. His clutch pedal force compared to mine was quite dramaticly
softer. He said he just had an OEM clutch in it. but the pedal force was so
light it almost didn't seem normal. But I'm sure it was. Marty Takes
impeckable pride in his car and it shows. A GREAT RIDE. Even Marty commented
on how much more effort was required to pushing the clutch pedal on my car.
But then I told him I had the Centerforce clutch installed and figured that
was probably why.
Dennis 5180
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:45:01 EDT
From: DBJCFAM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Antifreeze
What is the best way to drain all of the antifreeze from the radiator?
Dennis
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:54:48 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: oil filters
There is a German oil filter called '"Knecht." I ordered this filter from
a DMC vendor 5-6 years ago, and I have never used it.
The most common oil filter for the DeLorean is the PURFLUX. This
company, PURFLUX makes authorized oil filters for Ferrari, Rolls, etc., etc.
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
VIN 3713
DOA 4743
DMC Mid Atlantic
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:57:19 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: temp sending unit wiring
Hello All,
this weekend i would like to diagnose my temp sending unit problem/temp gauge
problem. right now it is stuck about 1/3 of the way up on the gauge and it
will not reset when you turn the key. it's just stuck there. apparently
this is the type of gauge that will keep your last position when you turn the
car off, then when you start it again, all the needles should drop back down.
that leads me to believe that i have a wiring problem or a bad temp sending
unit. i have a new sending unit from Grady but i would also like to check
the wires. the previous owner said his mechanic played with the wires a bit
and it worked again, now it doesn't work again.
what i would like to do is totally rewire the sending unit from the engine to
the dash with some high-heat resisting wire. as i look at the wiring
diagram, the wire goes from the sending unit with a ground on one end to a
resistor or a capacitor of some sort (i think) then to the dash. i think
i'll be ok as long as i rewire it from the engine back to whatever that
resistor or something is. however, the old wire is all tied up in the wiring
braid and i think it's best to leave all that stuff well enough alone.
could someone who has done this before explain to me where this old wire
goes? it goes from the sending unit to the braid to the (insert missing
parts here) to the dash gauge. that's about all i know, besides it being a
blue/green wire. what i need is where that resistor or capacitor is.
probably way up in the dash, right? ok, if it's too tough to get to i'll
settle for just splicing it into the old wire before it gets to the dash but
still underneath that area. can someone tell me where a good spot to do this
at would be?
also, what about the ground. is that the outside of the sending unit? i
assume if i just connect a wire from the sending unit to the next piece later
down the path i'll be ok, just like the old one was hooked up
thanks!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 12:56:05 +1000
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: REPLACEMENT RADIATOR
Looks like the life of the radiator in my 'D' may be coming to an end.
Whilst I realise that quality replacement units are available in the USA,
Down Under, things are a little different. With the sagging Aussie dollar
(against the Greenback), plus postage and import duty, a bloke would need a
bank balance similar to that of Bill Gates to be able to afford one.
I would imagine that the DeLorean radiator is most likely used in other
types of vehicles. Would anyone know of a suitable replacement for the
DeLorean which would not cost me neither an arm nor a leg!!.
Thank you (in anticipation),
Lance
(Australia)
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:52:38 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A/C compressor
Ever since I bought the love of my life, the A/C compressor hasn't worked.
The previous owner told me the system would hold refrigerant and sometimes
would briefly engage, but not much. Every time I've tried to turn the A/C
on it instantly locks up and the belt squeals in protest. I've tried not to
mess with it too much for fear of snapping the belt. Should I just go ahead
and buy a new compressor or can they be fixed? I would like to get one
soon, my god is it hot in there with those tiny windows!
Thanks everyone!
payne
#2975
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 01:48:21 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: value of used suspension parts?
Not very much. 20-year-old shocks are (stiff) 20-year-old shocks, regardless of the mileage. And not many folks want to RAISE the front end ;-).
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxx> wrote:
Is there a market or any interest in the original parts I'm
> replacing? What's the estimated value they might have?
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:02:59 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: NOSE BRAS for DeLorean: Brand New, Super Heavy Duty
Two months ago the topic of DeLorean nose bras came up. Last spring I
managed to work out a deal with Colgan Custom, the inventor of the auto nose
bra, and an original manufacturer of custom made DeLorean nose bras. It was
for a VERY limited re-issue, and they all sold quickly. I've had requests
about them ever since, including one today. There were a few manufacturers of
nose bras in the early eighties, but they'd since gone out of production. I
had bought a rare USED original for $149.95 plus shipping, and figured it was
such a great item, it was worth trying to revive. Owners who bought them
loved them, but since then I haven't floated another limited issue, until now.
Colgan's are the full-size super heavy duty type. It's held on in twelve
places, so it does not move or flap anywhere. Smooth on top, no "bug flaps."
It does not interfere with radiator airflow. The material is extremely heavy
duty, more like a leather jacket for your DeLorean than a bra. Except that's
it's heavy vinyl, not leather. Some nose bras I see on Camaros and so on are
pretty baggy and saggy. Not these. Some of the old nose bras had "DMC" in
white letters on the front. These have "De Lorean" embossed (black on black
raised letters,) using the DMC font about the size of the writing on your
back bumper. This nose bra comes with a 5 YEAR MANUFACTURER WARRANTY and
installation info. I put together an additional instalIation guide with
photos to make it even easier. You can install it in minutes.
Why would you want a nose bra? They protect the front of the car from bugs
and minor stone or debris damage. Nice to have on your car when you hit the
hiways for shows. You should have seen the bugs and junk on mine when I
drove from here to Richmond, Va. for the big British Car Show last fall. (Ten
hours round trip.) And they look pretty cool, too! :) Another reason: if
you have a faded, slightly damaged, or "eye-browed" fascia, the full-size
nose bra can easily cover that up. I have a picture with one on my D if
you'd like to see it... it looks MAHVELOUS! E-mail me at
"deloreanernst<at>aol.com." and I'll send you a pic. The cost is $165. plus
shipping. A special storage bag is available for an additional $7.50. I can
take credit cards through my business... Visa, Mastercard, American Express.
Please e-mail me or phone immediately at 1-800-833-3920. Ask for Wayne.
(You're calling me at work.)
Last year I wondered if I'd end up with some on my hands... no problem... I
could've sold more. This issue is for only 15, so I wonder if we'll have
enough. I won't be making another offer this year. Don't wait to look for
one "cheap" on e-bay. None of last year's ended up there. And if I have one
or two left and put them on e-bay, the opening bid amount will be the same as
the list price. So if you want one, contact me immediately. I'm not going
to post messages ad infinitum and annoy everybody!
I'll place my order with Colgan NEXT FRIDAY, May 4. If you want one for
sure, you must contact me by that time. Delivery will probably take about 6
weeks... it's their busy season. I should've put this afloat sooner I guess,
but I've been pretty busy, including with DMCTech.
Wayne A. Ernst
"Living the Dream!"
vin 11174
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 02:22:18 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: oil filters
John and list,
PTE/Teflon is THE ABSOLUT WORST thing to put into any engine. The
PTE/Teflon (or PTFE as Slick 50 calls it) clogs the oil filter and
the internal oil passages in the engine. The Teflon does not dissolve
in the oil thus becoming a suspending particle. The oil filters job
is to remove particles in the oil and since the Teflon is a particle,
your wasting your money. Ever wonder why on the Slick 50 package it's
called PTFE and not Teflon? Dupont did not want their product
associated with it in anyway. They knew that it would cause engine
problems so the manufacture of Slick 50 had to come up with their own
name.
As for the check valve, that's another "no-no" for the Delorean
engine. Fram even advises NOT to use their filter on the Delorean
engines because their filter that fits the D has a check valve in it.
The oil filter on the D is on an angle where the highest point is the
threaded part and the lowest point is the rounded part of the filter.
It can hold plenty of oil in it after the engine is off. The cars
that need check valves are the ones with the filter that are placed
opposite of what the delorean's position is...meaning the threaded
part of the filter is facing down. For example my Jeep Cherokee, the
oil filter is in the opposite position of the Delorean where as the
rounded top part of the filter being the highest point. It's all
about gravity, you either love it or hate it. I can go on and on
about other things such as there's no oil on the top half of the
engine during start up...that's why it's important to start your car
and let it "warm up" first to get all the fluids moving along before
stepping on the gas and going.
Here's a little visual for you: Get a glass and fill it with water,
tilt it in the same position as the filter is on the D. There's still
water in the glass right? If anyone would like a picture of what
position the oil filter is in…email me….my engine is out of the car
with the PROPER oil filter on it and I can take a picture with my
digital camera for your reference.
The oil check valve on the Delorean will cause an unnecessary HIGH
oil pressure which can lead to engine damage.
I wouldn't go about saying the professional car
mechanics/dealer/repair places are wrong and your right. If you want
to stick with the Bosch oil filter that has the check valve on your
car..then by all means do so but don't tell other people that don't
know the effects of a check valve oil filter that the Delorean parts
vendors are wrong! They (the Delorean parts dealers) have had YEARS
of experience (and most of them well over 20 years experience) and
know what's good and what's bad for these cars.
Sorry I'm blowing off steam again ;-),
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Dan, Let me explain why the anti-drain back valve filter or check
valve as
> you call it is so important in the Bosch oil filter and other
applications. I
> think you will better understand after this.
<SNIP>
>Without the anti-drainback valve you will promote more wear to
> the engine because the filter won't hold oil because it will drain
back to
> the level of the car and lubrication will be slower.
<SNIP>
This is also why
> PTE/Teflon was added to oil to help lessen the friction of metal
from metal
> during that critical time of start up and running.
<SNIP>
John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 02:45:28 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: oil filters
He's right. The check valve is spring loaded thus requiring more
pressure to push it open. This is what causes the higher oil
pressure. Since the engine (or i should say oil pump) wasn't desinged
to be used with a check valve, your putting more strain on it.
Sort of like putting your thumb over a hose....the more pressure
(resitance) you apply with your thumb over the hose opening...the
higher the pressure of the water.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Doc" <doctor280@xxxx> wrote:
> >You don't want your oil filter to have a check valve in the
DeLorean.
> >It causes higher pressures that can ruin your oil pressure sender
and
> >actually shorten the life of your engine.
>
> >---Dan
> __________________________________________________________
> Where are you getting this information from????
>
> Robert Starling
> Vin#05252
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:23:43 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean clutch vs. other cars.
Maybe it's just me, but the clutch in the DeLorean doesn't seem all
that bad. Granted the D is only the 3rd car I've ever owned, while
others here on the list have had a much broader range of vehicles. My
first car was a '97 Hyundai Accent, which in comparison to the D has
a slightly less stiffer clutch pedal. My '96 F-150 XLT on the other
hand had a feather light clutch, and it was a much larger truck.
Back when the clutch on my D went out, I didn't drive the car for
almost 2 months. After getting the car back, I had to get used to the
clutch feel again. It took a little over a week, and I was back into
the swing of things.
The best advice that I could give would be to locate another owner,
and see how their clutch compares to yours. In the mean time, try
adjusting how you sit in the drivers seat. Slide the seat back
further, recline it back, and raise the steering wheel. If it becomes
a little out of reach, pull it out tward you (remember, it
telescopes!). That should give your left leg a little more leverage.
Try that four about a week or so and see how things go before you
adjust/inspect any part of the clutch system.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 03:27:08 -0000
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Coolant Change
I decided that it might be a good idea to change the coolant in my
car as it has not been changed in the 16 months that I have owned it
and maybe never! The car has 10,500 miles on it and it just seemed
like a good idea.
Anyway, I'm not located in an area where there is a service center
close by and I really didn't want to do it myself as I really don't
know what to do with the old stuff. Since the car is basically a
Volvo derivative, engine wise, I went to a local Volvo repair
center. They came out, stared at the car and told me that they do
not work on four cylinder cars! I explained that it was a six and
they asked me who did the modification and what kind of engine it now
had in it. So much for them as a possible vendor.
I went to the Jiffy Lube place and they said no problem, but they
wanted me to come back on a hot day because it would take "forever to
flush." I live in San Diego and the weather doesn't change much
so....I left with a feeling that I was not going to be able to have
them do it.
So much for trying to stimulate the local economy. Now, for my
question. I collect cars and one of my other cars, a Cadillac
Allante also has an aluminum engine and it requires special tablets
to be added to the mixture. Does the Delorean require any kind of
special tablets? If so, where do you get them?
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:18:31 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: 88mph question (seriously)
[Moderators note - please do not use this as an excuse to start a bttf thread]
Will it damage an OEM 85mph speedometer to run the car faster than it can
display?
I have heard rumors long ago that some older cars (non DMC's) that have the
old 85mph speedometers will break if made to register faster they can
display. Likewise, this rumor has been extrapolated to the DMC even though
I don't think it is true. Can anyone say?
As a bit of trivia, I heard that the magic speed of 88mph was chosen for the
BTTF movie because a producer asked how fast the car will go. They looked
at the 85mph speedometer, estimated where the stop pin is and came up with
the magic number of 88.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 01:09:25 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: emblem question
In a message dated 4/26/01 9:15:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I always thought that only the '83s had the "delorean" emblem in the rear>>
Kurt,
If you are talking about the "De Lorean" that is imprinted in the rear
fascia (bumper) then thats is on -all- De Loreans.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:37:49 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A/C compressor
Is the belt turning the pulley when the A/C clutch engages? If so
then you either need a new belt or adjust the tension on the existing
one to eliminate the squeal. Check the belt for any sign of were or
cracks and replace it if needed. While your at it, it would be a good
idea to replace the bearings in the two A/C belt pulleys, buy the Kit
from a D vendor. It will come with all the necessary seals, bearings
and belt.
If the belt isn't turning the pulley at all when the A/C clutch
engages (causing the belt to squeal and burn), then you make a seized
compressor. That would require to either have the old one rebuilt (it
can be rebuilt) or replace it with a new one. This will require
opening the A/C system and I would recomend leaving this job to a
proffesional A/C guy.
Steve Rubano
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Ever since I bought the love of my life, the A/C compressor hasn't
worked.
> The previous owner told me the system would hold refrigerant and
sometimes
> would briefly engage, but not much. Every time I've tried to turn
the A/C
> on it instantly locks up and the belt squeals in protest. I've
tried not to
> mess with it too much for fear of snapping the belt. Should I just
go ahead
> and buy a new compressor or can they be fixed? I would like to get
one
> soon, my god is it hot in there with those tiny windows!
>
> Thanks everyone!
>
> payne
> #2975
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:08:08 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: temp sending unit wiring
There is no resistor or capaciter in the wiring to the temp sensor.
The ground connection you see in the wiring diagram is internal to the
sensor. There is no reason to rewire the sensor as long as you can
connect the correct wire to the temp sensor which is located on the
front of the right side cylinder head up against the firewall. It is
very common that the wire gets knocked loose from working in that
area. I would concentrate on the fuel system and getting the motor
running as the temp sensor won't matter until then!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> this weekend i would like to diagnose my temp sending unit
problem/temp gauge
> problem. right now it is stuck about 1/3 of the way up on the gauge
and it
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:38:54 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: oil filters
I have not opened a purflux filter so I can't say with certainty but
the spring loaded valve you are refering to is the bypass valve. On
many filters there is incorporated inside a valve so that in the event
the filter gets too plugged up it allows the pressureized oil to
bypass the filter. The logic is that at least oil still gets to the
internals even though it is not filtered. The specs vary widely so in
general it is not a good idea to stick on any filter that physicaly
fits without knowing about the valving and ratings. IMHO the Purflux
is not so hard to get or so expensive that it is worth the possible
risks. If you are having trouble getting it call a Delorean vender and
order 2 so you have an extra! For those of you who think it is too
expensive go see what filters for Jaguars cost!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, srubano@xxxx wrote:
> He's right. The check valve is spring loaded thus requiring more
> pressure to push it open. This is what causes the higher oil
> pressure. Since the engine (or i should say oil pump) wasn't
desinged
> to be used with a check valve, your putting more strain on it.
>
> Sort of like putting your thumb over a hose....the more pressure
> (resitance) you apply with your thumb over the hose opening...the
> higher the pressure of the water.
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Doc" <doctor280@xxxx> wrote:
> > >You don't want your oil filter to have a check valve in the
> DeLorean.
> > >It causes higher pressures that can ruin your oil pressure sender
> and
> > >actually shorten the life of your engine.
> >
> > >---Dan
> > __________________________________________________________
> > Where are you getting this information from????
> >
> > Robert Starling
> > Vin#05252
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:25:45 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Coolant Change
Make sure to drain as much of the old coolant as possible and dispose
of properly. Flush the system several times and refill with a 50/50
mixture of a national brand of ethelyne glycol like Prestone. It
should say safe for aluminum. The national brands have additive
packages that prevent corrosion, lubricate the water pump, seal small
leaks, are anti-foaming, and resist evaporation. While doing this you
should consider replacing ALL of the hoses. Pressure test with plain
water before refilling with anti-freeze to verify that there are no
leaks. The system should hold 15 PSI for at least 15 min. Be sure to
bleed the air from the radiater and water pump. Do not overfill and
consider changing the header bottle to a metal one. There is also a
continuous bleeder kit available. Check and replace both belts and
maybe also the idler bearings. To make the cooling system completly
bulletproof upgrade the cooling fan circuit breaker and install a
Fanzilla. If you have money left over install a new radiater with
brass end tanks. Since you are interested in prolonging the life of
you Delorean don't forget to flush the brake and clutch systems with
DOT 4 Castrol GTLMA brake fluid! Remove the windshield washer bottle
and clean all of the crud out of that while you are at it. IMHO the
cooling system and associated electrical components is one of the
weakest areas in the Delorean but doing these things will make it MUCH
more reliable. Although the car has some simularities to volvos there
are many significant differences. Instead of looking for a volvo
dealer try to locate a shop that works on classic or antique cars.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, SGSKBM@xxxx wrote:
> I decided that it might be a good idea to change the coolant in my
> car as it has not been changed in the 16 months that I have owned it
> and maybe never! The car has 10,500 miles on it and it just seemed
> like a good idea.
>
> Anyway, I'm not located in an area where there is a service center
> close by and I really didn't want to do it myself as I really don't
> know what to do with the old stuff. Since the car is basically a
> Volvo derivative, engine wise, I went to a local Volvo repair
> center. They came out, stared at the car and told me that they do
> not work on four cylinder cars! I explained that it was a six and
> they asked me who did the modification and what kind of engine it
now
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