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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. San Diego Delorean Gathering
From: David Cox <DMCox@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Lifting a lowered car (MacGyver Challenge)
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Oil Filters
From: specialtauto@xxxxxxxxx
4. Re: parking brake problems
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Dash Removal
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: fuel problem update
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: mixing cross-drilled brake rotors
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
10. emblem question
From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: clutch
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
13. Dashboard Removal Questions.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
14. Re: clutch
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: replacing ball joint
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Clutch & Parking Brake
From: brentbeecher@xxxxxxxx
17. Cooling fans not coming on with A/C off
From: meester@xxxxxxxxxxx
18. unique painted DeLorean
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Fuse box wire colors
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: clutch
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: fuel problem update
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
24. Re: Cooling fans not coming on with A/C off
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
25. Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 15:39:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Cox <DMCox@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: San Diego Delorean Gathering
Calling all owners and enthusiasts in range of San Diego! A couple of us have finally decided that we would like to get all the local people together for an informal meet-and-greet; to talk about who is going to the upcoming events in San Ramon, Brea, Houston, etc.; swap stories and kick tires; and just socialize. We think there are at least a dozen Ds here in the county. I know there are some daily drivers, and some garage queens, and some that fall between. This is the chance for you to get your car out and let it be seen. So here's the deal:
When: Sunday, 20 May, 3pm until ??
Where: Trophy's, Hazard Center (Friar's Rd. @ 163)
I have talked to the General Manager, and he is willing to block off a parking area for us right out front, but we will have to provide him with some idea of how many spots we will require. If you are interested in coming, please contact me and let me know how many people will be with you and how many cars (Deloreans and others). You can contact me here:
David Cox (dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
(h) 760/598-8266 (we have a machine and screen almost all calls, so please leave a message!)
Any questions?
Dave
vin 16367
_____________________________________________________________
YourName@xxxxxxxxxxxx -- it's free from <a href="" href="http://www.delorean.com">http://www.delorean.com"> DeLorean Motor Company</a>!
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:08:31 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lifting a lowered car (MacGyver Challenge)
More 2x's. I have the same problem with a Miata. I use 2x6's for more
support for the tires, but same principle. Cut two pieces about 18"-24" and
two pieces about 12" and nail a short one on top of each long one. Creates
kind of a mini-ramp that you drive up on giving you 3" clearance over being
on pavement. By cutting ever longer pieces for the bottom you can go
taller, but make the bottom pieces wider for stability. Also, if you go
more than two tall the bottom ones have to be *much* longer so that the
tire is up on it before getting to the other shorter ones. Otherwise you'll
just hit the stack of lumber with the front air dam and scoot it along the
floor.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 11:45 AM 4/25/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi everyone!
>
<snip>
>jack doesn't fit under the car at the jack points. If i drive the car up
>on some 2x4s, I can get the floor jack under the frame at the rear of the
>car (with a 2x4 on the jack of course). But even when on 2x4s, there's no
>way of getting the jack under the front part of the frame to lift the
>front up.
>
<snip>
>-Christian
>-3452 (almost registered in California)
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:28:22 -0000
From: specialtauto@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Oil Filters
Group, If you want to see the inside of the Anti-drainback valve and
the Bypass valve in the Bosch filters and the Technical information
on them. I have posted the pictures on my web site. I'm sure the same
info would apply to any filter like this. www.specialTauto.com
Engine Parts
John Hervey
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:32:59 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: parking brake problems
Andy,
There are two areas that could be causing your problem, the cable itself or
the parking brake hardware. On the end of the parking cable at the rear
wheel is a post that attaches to one of the brake arms. Try to CAREFULLY
remove the nut (10mm) holding the post to the brake arm. It is possible to
twist off the threaded portion of the post here if the nut is frozen. Don't
use anything bigger than 1/4" drive sockets here. Use PC Blaster or WD40 to
loosen the nut.
Once the cable end is free on both ends you should be able to move it in and
out freely. Try adding some oil on both ends where the cable goes inside the
sleeve. If you can't get it to move freely you will need to replace it.
If the cable moves freely then you will need to disassemble the parking
brake hardware and clean it. You might as well replace the brake pads now
also.
[moderator snip]
> i lifted the handle again and the passenger
> side cable fell out of the mechanism. dang it!!!! but that just goes to
> show that the passenger side cable or caliper is hanging up. the
> driver's side seems to work just fine.
This is normal without the wheels on.
[moderator snip]
Dave Sontos
VIN 02573
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:41:36 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dash Removal
I believe there are six 10mm nuts, four holding the binnacle and two on the
steering column. Remove all of the nuts and give the binnacle a gentle tug.
Now reach in between the dash and binnacle and unplug the speedo and wiring
harness. Use number 168 or PC168 to replace the bulbs. You may want to go
and replace ALL of them now so you don't have to do this again.
Dave Sontos
VIN 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Pike" <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 12:54 PM
Subject: [DML] Dash Removal
> Does anyone know how to remove the dash so I can get
> to this thing, or is there an easy way to change it?
> And what kind of bulb goes in it?
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:10:02 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: fuel problem update
David,
my mistake. upon closer inspection, i see now that the hose does go up to
the tee-intersection. everything in there is routed correctly.
if this return hose were to burst from pressure, what would that indicate
about my system? i'm not sure that that happened at all. the hose was
probably leaky then all of a sudden after we tried to start it about 25
times, it just gave up and broke.
but hypothetically...
Andy
In a message dated 4/25/01 6:07:37 PM Central Daylight Time,
jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I am going to take a wild guess here and say during a previous repair
> someone changed the return line circuit! There should be 3 lines to
> the accumulater but none should "loop back". One line should return to
> the tank with a tee picking up the return line from the fuel
> distributer. Please check out the routing of ALL of the hoses for
>
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:36:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, dmczr1 wrote:
> Another owner in Colorado Springs says he takes his to someone in
> Boulder (Colorado).
Probably Haglin Automotive. I don't know their number, but they do fix
DeLoreans. (And Fords)
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:42:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: mixing cross-drilled brake rotors
On Mon, 23 Apr 2001, Walter wrote:
> I specifically want to know if the braking characteristics of having
> cross-drilled rotors only on the front will interfere with the
> front/rear brake proportioning. If the front brakes worked better
> than designed, and the rear brakes worked normal, then could that make
> the car more prone to oversteer?
This will not be a problem. First, cross-drilled rotors don't affect
stopping power, only repeated stopping power (and even then, my opinion is
that the effect is minimal at most). You always want the front brakes to
lock up first. If the rear brakes lock up before the fronts, you will
spin, no questions asked, even if you aren't turning.
If you *are* turning while braking hard enough that either end is in
danger of locking up, in a rear engine car you're going to spin anyway
regardless of brake proportioning.
In other words, don't worry about it. :}
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 01:06:02 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
John,
There is nothing objectionable in your message. It actually gave me a chuckle. I am rejecting it because the list is particularly busy right now, and I am asking a few regular posters to delay sending these messages for a while.
Feel free to resend it, or something like it, later. If I am moderating on a quiet day then I will approve it.
- Mike Substelny
this week's DML moderator
Walt, I don't have dings, are we supposed to.It sounds like were to
have dings. I want my dings. Will my car run better. Do I need to
change the oil.??????????
No dings
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> The cable housing is the part that is causing the dents. The dents
are not
> very obvious, but on my car, these are the worst dings on both my
doors.
> When looking straight at the doors, the dents barely obvious;
however, when
> viewed from standing close to the front or rear of the car and
looking down
> the side -- particularly at night -- the dents are very obvious.
It makes
> the familiar 'X' pattern on the hood look lame in comparison.
>
> I'm thinking about installing the optional dealer stripes if only
to conceal
> the damage.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doc <doctor280@xxxx>
>
> >There is only the cable housing and the
> >cable,(that runs inside the housing)that is located at the center
of the
> >door.
> >
> >Robert Starling
> >Vin#05252
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:16:22 -0500
From: "Kurt Cenin" <markurbec@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: emblem question
I have a question that maybe some of you can answer for me.
I always thought that only the '83s had the "delorean" emblem in the rear and on the hood, and that the '81s and '82s had no hood emblem and only and imprint of "delorean" on the back. But the other day, I saw an '81 with the "delorean" emblems.
Does anyone know what DeLoreans were made with the emblems and not?
Thanks in advance.
Kurt
to-be DeLorean owner
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:27:46 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
> Idle fluctuation is totally different then a rough idle. A rough idle
> in my car was when the entire car shook and rocked back and forth.
>
> To determine any problems, describe both the hard starting, and any
> accelleration problems you have.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
My plugs, at least the two I pulled out, did not look worn at all. They
were just blackened evenly without deposits or charring. Some days the car
will start first crank without me giving it any gas. And some mornings it
will take a couple tries and maybe a small push on the throttle. It is
somewhat dependent on outside temperature, but not exclusively. When the
motor is cold, it shakes and does not like to be given gas as when you let
off it will die, and before it will rev it sometimes stumbles and shakes.
After the few minutes I give it to warm up every morning it will function
normally. Today was much warmer, and it started first crank and idled as
smooth as my former Acura. Oh my god was it hot in there due to my broken
AC compressor, but I don't care because I'm in a DeLorean! I must get that
fixed though.
Thanks guys!
payne
#2975
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 03:34:31 -0000
From: graves_14@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: clutch
Well, it may be Yahoo! groups suicide to respond to my own post and
simultaneously question a moderator, but I must. Understandably
driving only two DeLoreans doesn't make me a pro, but both clutches
were stiffer than any truck I have driven. In many of the reviews
that I have read about DeLoreans, when they first came out, it was
common to read remarks about the clutch as being "hard" or "stiff". I
will say that if your breaking out into a sweat, then there might be
a problem, but it certainly isn't like anything I have driven...
isn't that why we bought these babies anyway!?
>>snip
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, graves_14@xxxx wrote:
> [Moderator Note: from daily personal experience, I assure you that
a properly maintained DeLorean clutch is very easy to use. Scotty
and Tyler must have defective clutches.]
>>snip
[Fresh moderator note: it is not DML suicide to question me! My guess is that both DeLoreans with "stiff" clutches probably had the original polymer clutch line. With the braided line a DeLorean clutch should operate smoothly and easily.]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 03:41:13 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Dashboard Removal Questions.
One of my future projects is to correct my dashboard. The person who
put it in last did a VERY sloppy job. My passenger door doesn't close
properly, my binnacle is off center, and my A-pillars have an inch
gap between them and the dash. After using the new Google search
utility on the DMCNews website, I found the instructions on how to
remove the dash. But, I do have a quick couple of questions. As a
whole, my dash sits too low (more so next to the windshield). So my
first question is will I need to use shims to raise the front of the
dash? And if so, approx. how many. Other than that, I was just
curious if anyone else had any tips or ideas for for both the removal
of the dash, and items that I may have easier access to while the
dash is removed (defroster ducts, vaccum hoses, etc...). Because of
my build, I may need to remove the seats to make things easier (and
for cleaning my carpet). Thankfully I was also able to find
instructions for removal on the first hit for the seach engine!
Thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 03:58:03 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clutch
Ooh - we may even have a moderator debate here. My observations on
clutches--
By the standards of other modern cars I have driven/owned (Acura, BMW
etc) the DeLorean clutch is indeed "heavy". It's a matter of
comparison. If you are comparing it to other old sports or muscle
cars it's pretty normal. If you compare it to a Honda Civic it feels
heavy. I've driven enought DeLoreans to believe that this is not an
anomaly. They are NOT all the same, though.
In the case of my own car, I replaced the clutch last year. In the
process, I noticed that the clutch fork pivot ball and the sliding
surfaces of the throwout bearing were completely dry. The rubber
cover for the pivot ball was missing, allowing the the grease to
deteriorate and water to get in over time. After reassembling
everything greased properly, the clutch action was much easier than
when I started. But still not up to the level of the other cars I'm
comparing it to. It may have something to do with the length and
therefore resistance of the hydraulic line. Recall that front-engine
cars have about a foot of hydraulic line, not the 6 feet (+ a bunch
of transition fittings) contained in the DMC.
Recommendation? Unfortunately removing the transmission for the
purpost of greasing the pivot ball and TO slide is way beyond the
scope of your average weekend. Generally if you take it this far
apart, replace the clutch assembly and you'll be good to go for
years. While your at it, replace the hydraulics (master, slave, line
if not stainless) and then you can forget about the whole thing for a
long time.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, graves_14@xxxx wrote:
> [Moderator Note: from daily personal experience, I assure you that
a properly maintained DeLorean clutch is very easy to use. Scotty
and Tyler must have defective clutches.]
>
> If you are relatively new to driving DeLoreans, welcome to the hard
> clutch club! Both the first D I drove and my current D have rather
> hard clutches. From reading other posts, I gather that this is a
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:36:03 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: replacing ball joint
> Just wondered how hard a job it is to replace the lower ball joint on
> the d drivers side?
I did it in a parking lot with a floor jack and a big hammer after mine
failed. Not the recommended method......
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 06:06:16 -0000
From: brentbeecher@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Clutch & Parking Brake
I have one of those super-stiff clutches being discussed. My
slave cylinder developed a leak while I was in San Fransisco,
and the mechanic ordered a new one from DMC Garden Grove.
That mechanic also thought I needed a new clutch because of
the stiffness, but I had a chat with my Boulder, Colorado
mechanic, Dana Haglin about it, and he said Delorean clutches
are stiff, and not to worry about it. So, I to the SF people I'd keep
the new clutch for when I needed it, but didn't ask them to put it in
then.
I have been a little concerned about the stiffness, since I'm sure
it's putting a heafty amount of pressure on the hydraulic system,
and replacing the slave is bitchy work if I do it myself, expensive if
I have someone else do it... Haglin has driven it since then, and
doesn't seem to think anything is unusual. So what's the story?
I have a brand new slave cylinder, but an old clutch, and it's stiff.
When I drive other cars, the clutch feels like butter. It seems to
engage perfectly, and there is no problem shifting.
Also, a parking brake question. I noticed it was feeling a little
"gritty" recently, and finally I was engaging it when there was a
little "pop" feeling, and it moved up much more freely, but to a
hyper-extended position. It still works, but to stop the car on a
hill, it has to be pulled up higher than the door will allow.
Everything seems ok by the calipers, and I suspect that
something has become detached in the hand unit. I gently pryed
a bit on the carpet covering the floor box, but couldn't find any
tabs or screws that were holding it down, and before I reefed on
it with a screwdriver, I thought I'd ask for some finess tips on how
to get that box open. :-) Thanks to everyone for a fine list.
Brent Beecher
00893
Seattle, WA
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 07:56:02 -0000
From: meester@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Cooling fans not coming on with A/C off
I'm a new Delorean owner. 5spd with 22K miles. Like most mine has the
typical cooling problem. My cooling fans were not coming on at all.
I just got finished installing the fanzilla and the two circuit
breakers. I was happy to see my fans at least work now, but they only
come on with the AC on. And there seems to be a lot of clicking
going on but maybe this is because the freeon is low. I have bleed
the cooling system and even jumpered the otterstat switch but the
fans still don't come on when the AC is off. I am guessing it's a
wiring problem. Any suggestions? Thanks, Daniel
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Message: 18
Date: 26 Apr 2001 08:43 GMT
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: unique painted DeLorean
Looks very
strange....http://www.uniquemedia.de/dreamcars/delorean/delorean.html
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 05:12:32 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuse box wire colors
Robert,
On a friend's DeLorean, he had 3 of the 20 amp fuse sockets melt in his fuse
block. These spaces were badly deformed, and what was left of the
electrical connections inside of them were not repairable. Now his relay
compartment looks 'tampered with'. If anyone were buying a DeLorean and
knew what to look for, they could use my 'cut and bypass' repair to lower
the value of his car.
When I suggested an upgraded replacement for the original fuse block, I was
referring to the established opinion that the quality of the original is not
high enough to tolerate the high current demands placed on it. For the sake
of keeping the cars original, the best way to preserve the original fuse
block is to keep the connections clean to reduce the chances of a meltdown.
For the car that I did the bypass surgery on, the fuses that caused problems
were all 20 amp ones. If I remember correctly, one powered the a/c
compressor, one powered the high-beams, and one was fuse #7 that powers the
ignition, fuel pump and too many other things.
A crying shame of this situation is that the guy just spent a couple hundred
dollars having an new a/c compressor installed because the a/c compressor
clutch was slipping and presumed defective. Well, it is my opinion that the
clutch was slipping because the connection at the fuse that powers it
was thermally intermittent. Replacing the fuse connection cost a few
dollars in parts (if that) and my labor was free. Yeah, I'm bragging. I'm
such a great mechanic. :-)
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
>Out of curiosity, what are some of the problems that folks are having
>with thier fuse boxes that would require a new one?
>Just wondering what what problems others were having that they would
>need to replace the fuse block.
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:03:34 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
Hi all,
I had a very similar problem with the engine dying for no apparent
reason, it turned out to be water in the fuel tank. If you fill up
the fuel tank with a bit more petrol/gass then see if the problem
continues if it does then there is a strong posibility that there is
water in the fuel system. The water will stay at the bottom of the
tank no matter how much fuel you put in because as we all know fuel
is less dense than water and will therefore float ontop of the water.
When I had my problem I had driven for a long while with no problems
but as soon as I came to the slightest incline which was enough to
send the water to the rear of the fuel tank the engine would die.
Although it is probably likly to the a missing fuel baffel water in
the tank is often somthing which is overlooked. If it does turn out
to be water I can give you some tips about how to sort it without too
much hassell.
Speak to you all again soon,
James
Colchester
England
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 05:14:38 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: door dings caused by window regulator
Robert,
Nope. The procedure I use to close my door is the same wrong way that you
used to close yours. I put the outer side of my right hand at the back
bottom portion of the window and push down with a karate chop. I do this
because my door tends to latch on the front first, and the resulting loss of
momentum sometimes prevents the rear from latching. But by pushing at the
rear of the door, it helps the rear to latch at the same time.
My door needs adjustment real bad since a previous owner really screwed it
up. They apparently moved the position of the hinges which DMC Joe told me
is very rarely called for. They glued the rear quarter panel gasket on in
such a way that it interferred with the door closing all the way. They also
put several small dents in the top of the driver's door and the T-panel and
also stretched/warped the edges in their idiotic attempt to adjust it. I
think they over torqued the torsion bar as well to compensate for a weak
strut. Since my roof leaks, I want to take both the doors off and repaint
and reseal the rusting metal bracket that fits under the T-panel. Perhpas
sometime next year I will have the time to get around to it. Somehow I find
it strange, though, that I usually find plenty of time to read and write
lengthly messages on the DML. It's almost 5AM and I haven't even thought
about sleep yet! bad bad....
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
>From what you've described, what you are looking at is probably
>inappropriate closing of the doors.
<snip>
>When I first got my car, I used to alyways
>grab the door on the section right below the rear bottom corner of the
>window. Did this daily durring the hot summer in an effort to avoid
>burning my hands. What I have ended up with is an indentation of the
>glass and rubber seal around into the door.
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:51:25 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: clutch
David Swingle wrote:
> Ooh - we may even have a moderator debate here. My observations on
> clutches--
>
> By the standards of other modern cars I have driven/owned (Acura, BMW
> etc) the DeLorean clutch is indeed "heavy". It's a matter of
> comparison. If you are comparing it to other old sports or muscle
> cars it's pretty normal. If you compare it to a Honda Civic it feels
> heavy. I've driven enought DeLoreans to believe that this is not an
> anomaly. They are NOT all the same, though.
Actually, I was exclusively comparing to 70s cars. My 81 DeLorean is the
newest stickshift car that I have ever owned, and will probably remain so. I
have driven many newer cars which had alarmingly light clutch action. For
example, the BMW Z-3 clutch is sickeningly soft. I would give more examples,
but too many comparisons would take us off topic.
Tyler described clutching his DeLorean as a "workout," which seems like a
sign that something is wrong. Even my '70 Blazer, which took ten times more
legpower than my DeLorean, was not a "workout."
I occasionally find myself wishing for various features in my DeLorean, but a
softer clutch has never been one of them.
- Mike Substelny
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:54:53 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuel problem update
If your return line was to leak or burst I would guess that there is a
restriction in the line between the burst section and the fuel tank.
Under normal circumstances the return line doesn't see high pressures.
If the line was to be kinked, blocked, crushed, then the pressure
couldn't be dumped into the fuel tank and the return could rupture.
The return line is not made to contain the high pressures that the
other fuel lines carry. Disconnect the fittings at the Tee and see if
the line from the Tee to the tank is blocked. If not then check the
line from the Tee to the Fuel Pressure Regulater.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> David,
>
> my mistake. upon closer inspection, i see now that the hose does go
up to
> the tee-intersection. everything in there is routed correctly.
>
> if this return hose were to burst from pressure, what would that
indicate
> about my system? i'm not sure that that happened at all. the hose
was
> probably leaky then all of a sudden after we tried to start it about
25
> times, it just gave up and broke.
>
> but hypothetically...
>
> Andy
>
>
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 14:01:55 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cooling fans not coming on with A/C off
If jumping the otterstadt won't start the fans there is DEFINITLY a
wiring problem. Check all connections starting with the fuse-relay
block. Make sure all of the wiring connectors are securely in position
in the relay block. Sometimes the connecters "back out" so when you
install the relay they are not making contact with the terminals of
the relays.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, meester@xxxx wrote:
> I'm a new Delorean owner. 5spd with 22K miles. Like most mine has
the
> typical cooling problem. My cooling fans were not coming on at all.
> I just got finished installing the fanzilla and the two circuit
> breakers. I was happy to see my fans at least work now, but they
only
> come on with the AC on. And there seems to be a lot of clicking
> going on but maybe this is because the freeon is low. I have bleed
> the cooling system and even jumpered the otterstat switch but the
> fans still don't come on when the AC is off. I am guessing it's a
> wiring problem. Any suggestions? Thanks, Daniel
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 10:32:55 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my first real drive (not without its problems)
Todd, you said:
> . . . it's probably not normal for the car to feel like
> it's going to shake apart if you go over 40. My girlfriend compared
> the overall feeling to being in one of those vibrating massage
> chairs, although they can't hold a candle to my DeLorean. The
> vibration was *very* strong (my headlight beams were wiggling like
> crazy), its frequency increased with our speed, and it sounded
> remarkably like a helicopter.
Immediately check your lugnuts, especially on the rear wheels. One of them
may be loose! This is common if the last person to put the wheels on the car
was not accostomed to aluminum wheels, which require extra care. I assume
the drive home you describe was from getting your brakes fixed . . .
improperly tightened lugnuts may have worked their way loose during the first
few miles of the drive!
After tightening the lugnuts properly, jack the car up and try to wiggle the
wheels. Driving on one or more loose lugnuts might have destroyed a wheel
bearing, allowing the wheel to flop around on the axle. If this has
happened, replace it before you cause an accident!
Whatever the problem, the type of repetetive stress you describe might also
contribute to premature failure of you trailing arm bolts, which might cause
another accident a few months later. Stop driving the car until you diagnose
and solve your "helicopter" problem.
> Aside from this, the car made it about 10 miles from home without
> major incident. It was after I turned around and started heading
> back home that the engine decided to die four times:
My bet: this is neither an engine nor a transmission problem. As others have
said, you have a problem inside your fuel tank. To make sure, fill up the
tank and drive around (after solving the dangerous helicopter problem).
Everything will probably be fine as long as the tank is completely full.
This will give you a diagnosis and relieve your stress about costly
transmission or engine problems.
There could be a pinhole leak in your fuel inlet line, causing your car to
run fine as long as the leak is submerged but sputter any time the leak is
not submerged. Or maybe the inlet baffle assembly at the bottom of your tank
is loose, allowing it to wander around in the tank. Whenever it wanders
above the current fuel level your engine will sputter. Both of these are
very common and relatively easy to repair.
You can access the fuel tank through the panel below the spare tire. Search
the backissues for tips on removing the fuel pump, an operation which
requires safety precautions but few tools.
Best case scenario: tightening a lugnut and replacing a little rubber hose
might put you in business. Good luck.
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 8 years
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