Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. RE: Center Console Clock
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Shipping a Delorean?
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Shipping a Delorean?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Trim Post Installation
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Shipping a Delorean?
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Shipping a Delorean?
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
12. RE: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 10:57:09 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
We have the following burgundy pieces...
Binnacle
Glovebox lid
grab handles
center console armrest
Most have tags on them that say "Sample for color only", and one says
"Approved for color only". So we know what shade of burgundy the factory
intended, but there is not a complete set of parts for a burgundy interior
car.
As an aside, some of the factory documentation that we have indicates that
part numbers were assigned for the then upcoming interior colors, including
tan, burgundy and blue. No blue parts found yet, however.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
> From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:59:08 -0400
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Spare interior pieces
>
> I have seen photos on the web of a DeLorean whose owner had redone the
> interior in burgundy. And someone had mentioned on the DML a long time ago
> that they found a few burgundy-colored interior pieces in the warehouse
> during a tour. Your mention of spare tan interior pieces got me thinking
> -- does DMC have enough "spare" tan or burgundy interior pieces to make a
> full set of either? The burgundy car actually looks quite striking!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 12:28:48 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Center Console Clock
Roy asked,
Now with everything is place as I crack the center bolt on the tool, I am
stripping out the other two bolts. What should I do? The steering wheel
has still
not budged.
______________________________________________________________________
Makes sure that the two bolts you have are the right size and thread. If
they are not they may be stripping while you are installing them. Also make
sure that you are running them down enough that more than the tip is
inserted into the steering hub. If the bolts are the right size they will
start by finger tighting them.
Steering wheel removal instrutions can be found on my web site at
http://stainlesssteel.freeyellow.com/index.html
Robert Starling
Vin#05252
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 08:15:36 -0700
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Shipping a Delorean?
Does anyone have any experience with shipping a Delorean, or cars in
general, across the country? I'm up here in Washington State, and I've got
my eye on a car way down near Florida. If I decide to buy it, my original
plan was to fly down there and drive it home. I figure this will cost me in
the area of $2000, by the time you consider airfare, gas, food, and perhaps
a hotel stay or two. (I'd actually just planned to sleep in the car for 4
hours at a time, here and there, and drive straight through. Don't laugh:
I've never been in a Delorean but from what I've seen, it looks like it has
more room than my '85 Fiero, and I've slept fairly comfortably in that a
number of times) Might give me a chance to meet other Delorean owners on the
way, too.
However, I got to thinking, $2000 would go a long ways towards having it
shipped. However, I have absolutely no idea what is involved in shipping a
car, let alone what it might cost.
Any thoughts/suggestions?
- Ryan Wright, MCP (ryan.wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
- Web Operations Analyst
- Lamb-Weston, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 00:49:09 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
Hello David (and the rest of the list),
you have so many things to say, i'll just answer each part individually or
else we'll both get very confused!!
n a message dated 4/10/01 9:21:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< > Before you give up I have some ideas you can try. If indeed your
> primary pressure is too high besides the primary pressure regulater
> being stuck (which you say isn't) >>
i have pulled the bolt and spring/pin assembly. the whole thing is very
clean with no corrosion or debris. the pin in the spring moves easily, and
the hole in the bolt is not plugged from either direction. so i must assume
that this piece functions correctly. after all, there's hardly anything to
fail, except for the diaphragm inside the fuel distributer.
<<another possability is a restriction
> in the return line from the regulater to the tank.>>
from the fuel distributer to the tank, everything is kosher. remember? we
put a bucket around the return line in the tank and we measured out the
correct amount in one minute (2 liters) as stated in the shop manual. i also
removed the return line from the control pressure regulator which goes into
the side of the fuel distributer. i ran the fuel pump and fuel flowed out
very freely, without sputter or dripping. this says that the control
pressure regulator is not plugged on the return end, correct? i would assume
so.
<< Since your resting
> pressure is about right the fuel accumulater is probably OK.>>
i would be inclined to agree.
<<A quick
> and dirty test is to remove the return line from the regulater and rig
> up something temporary into a pail and see if the pressure is now in a
> more normal range. >>
can you describe this in greater detail? i don't know if you are talking
about the return on the control pressure or the primary pressure. and when i
remove it, from what end of the hose? if you could get more specific, i
might be able to see what you mean, and maybe i've already done that.
<<I think the noises from the pump are just it trying
> too hard against the high pressure, after you can get the pressure
> right the pump might be alright. >>
that would make sense if the INTAKE side of the fuel system were plugged.
however the fuel pump is capable of putting out over 120 PSI of fuel pressure
(typically they are twice as strong as the system requires), so i do not
think the pump is strained. i was reading about 7.5 bar of pressure which
is around this PSI level. i believe the pump is as strong as it should be,
but it might not be CONSISTENT!!
<<If you cannot regulate the primary
> pressure don't bother checking the control pressure, it will be too
> high also, it also dumps into the return line to the tank and besides
> it receives "regulated" presssure from the primary regulater so if
> that is too high the control pressure reg can't reduce it enough. >>
this is what i believed about two days ago. however i have since talked to an
engineer at bosch and a K-Jetronic guru at a local import dealer here, and
they both say that it is possible to read pressures in excess of 6 or 7 bar
due solely to a failed control pressure regulator. the primary pressure
regulator may be working just fine, however it is possible to get too high of
pressure AFTER the primary pressure. i don't really understand it, but both
of these guys insisted that the control pressure regulator is at fault. the
guy at the import dealer noted that i said my system pressure was measured at
about 6.5 bar today and my control pressure is at 3.5 bar on a COLD ENGINE!!!
this is definitely not right he said, and the problem lies within the warm-up
regulator (CPR to us DMC guys). the problem is the difference between the
system and control pressures is too narrow. the warm up pressure on a cold
engine is spec'd at around 1.5 bar (i don't see that spec in the shop manual,
but he insisted that all of these systems are the same, even on the
DeLorean), while the hot running temp pressure is supposed to be around 5.1
bar. you see the vast difference between the cold and warm pressures? he
insists that this is the problem. he says that if i replace my control
pressure regulator, my overall system pressure will stabilize and things
should be close to perfect again. however, after all of this pressure shock
to my fuel system, i may need to add or remove a couple shims on my primary
pressure. this weekend i'm borrowing a fuel pump and CPR from a couple kind
DML'ers and i have a feeling i will have a few more questions answered this
weekend... and i'll be sure to post to the list what happens.
if you or anyone else have any ideas, let me know.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 14:15:22 -0400
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
I haven't had too much time lately to pay attention to this thread but it
sounds like something I just went through. First change the fuel filter.
Then remove and have the injectors cleaned or replace them, I got new ones
for $19 each from my local FLAPS.
My car sat for 8 years, more than enough time for the gas to turn. I
cleaned the entire fuel system and replaced most of it. But did not get
100% of the trash out of the system and ended up plugging up the injectors.
Each injector has a small screen/filter that you can not remove and if you
try to punch a hole in to allow the gas to flow you will destroy the
injector.
If you have the pressure regulator in pieces you tell if it is working by
hotwiring the fuel pump on then with a small screwdriver press the small
recess in the center of the diaphragm where the rod sits. As you press it
with one hand move the air flow sensor plate with the other. if the
regulator is working you will feel the resistance change on the sensor
plate.
If you have any questions email me off the list, I will get back to you
faster.
Andrei Cular
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
> Hello David (and the rest of the list),
>
> you have so many things to say, i'll just answer each part individually or
> else we'll both get very confused!!
>
> n a message dated 4/10/01 9:21:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
> jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << > Before you give up I have some ideas you can try. If indeed your
> > primary pressure is too high besides the primary pressure regulater
> > being stuck (which you say isn't) >>
>
> i have pulled the bolt and spring/pin assembly. the whole thing is very
> clean with no corrosion or debris. the pin in the spring moves easily,
and
> the hole in the bolt is not plugged from either direction. so i must
assume
> that this piece functions correctly. after all, there's hardly anything
to
> fail, except for the diaphragm inside the fuel distributer.
>
>
> <<another possability is a restriction
> > in the return line from the regulater to the tank.>>
>
> from the fuel distributer to the tank, everything is kosher. remember?
we
> put a bucket around the return line in the tank and we measured out the
> correct amount in one minute (2 liters) as stated in the shop manual. i
also
> removed the return line from the control pressure regulator which goes
into
> the side of the fuel distributer. i ran the fuel pump and fuel flowed out
> very freely, without sputter or dripping. this says that the control
> pressure regulator is not plugged on the return end, correct? i would
assume
> so.
>
> << Since your resting
> > pressure is about right the fuel accumulater is probably OK.>>
>
> i would be inclined to agree.
>
>
> <<A quick
> > and dirty test is to remove the return line from the regulater and rig
> > up something temporary into a pail and see if the pressure is now in a
> > more normal range. >>
>
> can you describe this in greater detail? i don't know if you are talking
> about the return on the control pressure or the primary pressure. and
when i
> remove it, from what end of the hose? if you could get more specific, i
> might be able to see what you mean, and maybe i've already done that.
>
> <<I think the noises from the pump are just it trying
> > too hard against the high pressure, after you can get the pressure
> > right the pump might be alright. >>
>
> that would make sense if the INTAKE side of the fuel system were plugged.
> however the fuel pump is capable of putting out over 120 PSI of fuel
pressure
> (typically they are twice as strong as the system requires), so i do not
> think the pump is strained. i was reading about 7.5 bar of pressure
which
> is around this PSI level. i believe the pump is as strong as it should be,
> but it might not be CONSISTENT!!
>
> <<If you cannot regulate the primary
> > pressure don't bother checking the control pressure, it will be too
> > high also, it also dumps into the return line to the tank and besides
> > it receives "regulated" presssure from the primary regulater so if
> > that is too high the control pressure reg can't reduce it enough. >>
>
> this is what i believed about two days ago. however i have since talked to
an
> engineer at bosch and a K-Jetronic guru at a local import dealer here, and
> they both say that it is possible to read pressures in excess of 6 or 7
bar
> due solely to a failed control pressure regulator. the primary pressure
> regulator may be working just fine, however it is possible to get too high
of
> pressure AFTER the primary pressure. i don't really understand it, but
both
> of these guys insisted that the control pressure regulator is at fault.
the
> guy at the import dealer noted that i said my system pressure was measured
at
> about 6.5 bar today and my control pressure is at 3.5 bar on a COLD
ENGINE!!!
> this is definitely not right he said, and the problem lies within the
warm-up
> regulator (CPR to us DMC guys). the problem is the difference between the
> system and control pressures is too narrow. the warm up pressure on a
cold
> engine is spec'd at around 1.5 bar (i don't see that spec in the shop
manual,
> but he insisted that all of these systems are the same, even on the
> DeLorean), while the hot running temp pressure is supposed to be around
5.1
> bar. you see the vast difference between the cold and warm pressures? he
> insists that this is the problem. he says that if i replace my control
> pressure regulator, my overall system pressure will stabilize and things
> should be close to perfect again. however, after all of this pressure
shock
> to my fuel system, i may need to add or remove a couple shims on my
primary
> pressure. this weekend i'm borrowing a fuel pump and CPR from a couple
kind
> DML'ers and i have a feeling i will have a few more questions answered
this
> weekend... and i'll be sure to post to the list what happens.
>
> if you or anyone else have any ideas, let me know.
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxxxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 14:09:19 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shipping a Delorean?
Ryan,
We routinely contract the services of auto transport operations to ship
DeLorean's to and from our facility in Atlanta GA.
Horseless Carriage Carriers 800 631-7796 and Passport Transport 800 325-4267
are two operations I can personally recommend. They are both equipped with
fully enclosed auto carrier trailer rigs and are very experienced at
transporting rare and exotic automobiles.
We recently received a shipment from Minnesota, the total charge plus
extra's was slightly under $1000.00.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Wright, Ryan (LW) <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 11:15 AM
Subject: [DML] Shipping a Delorean?
> Does anyone have any experience with shipping a Delorean, or cars in
> general, across the country? I'm up here in Washington State, and I've got
> my eye on a car way down near Florida. > Any thoughts/suggestions?
>
> - Ryan Wright, MCP (ryan.wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
> - Web Operations Analyst
> - Lamb-Weston, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 14:27:31 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trim Post Installation
Fernando,
Your best bet is to leave this job to a pro. As you mentioned, the factory
"A" trim posts were installed behind the windshield. Some fancy trim work,
lots of patience, and plenty of "Pony" clamps are required to reinstall
these items properly without removing the windshield.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Fernando Dillard <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 12:56 AM
Subject: [DML] Trim Post Installation
>
> Hi List,
>
>
>
> I need to install new trim posts on my D. The old ones are warped and
> cracked. Has anybody installed the trim posts themselves? It looks like
> the windshield has to be removed in order for them to be properly
installed. Is
> this true?
>
>
>
> Do you think I should leave the installation to professionals? I already
> purchased them (trim posts) from DMC Houston.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fernando
>
> VIN 10811
>
>
>
> --- Fernando Dillard
>
> --- fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 15:42:49 -0400
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shipping a Delorean?
From my opinion, shipping is the way to go. I had my car shipped (State to
State Auto Transport) to Georgia from Colorado (door to door) for $750.00.
Also using them to ship another from Wyoming to Ga for $780.00. It was on a
3 car trailer so there was no chance of an above car dripping oil or
anything on it. They did a good job and their price was better than most.
They are insured and your car insurance should cover it on its trip too.
It's cheaper if it is in running condition to drive it on the trailer. They
will contact the person where they are to pick it up to set up exact time
and contact you when they are going to drop it off. They probably even
remember transporting my delorean. Their # is 800 940-4065.
Good luck
At 08:15 AM 4/11/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any experience with shipping a Delorean, or cars in
>general, across the country? I'm up here in Washington State, and I've got
>my eye on a car way down near Florida. If I decide to buy it, my original
>plan was to fly down there and drive it home. I figure this will cost me in
>the area of $2000, by the time you consider airfare, gas, food, and perhaps
>a hotel stay or two. (I'd actually just planned to sleep in the car for 4
>hours at a time, here and there, and drive straight through. Don't laugh:
>I've never been in a Delorean but from what I've seen, it looks like it has
>more room than my '85 Fiero, and I've slept fairly comfortably in that a
>number of times) Might give me a chance to meet other Delorean owners on the
>way, too.
>
>However, I got to thinking, $2000 would go a long ways towards having it
>shipped. However, I have absolutely no idea what is involved in shipping a
>car, let alone what it might cost.
>
>Any thoughts/suggestions?
>
>- Ryan Wright, MCP (ryan.wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
>- Web Operations Analyst
>- Lamb-Weston, Inc.
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 23:14:09 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
One of our members has one with a burgundy interior " factory fitted" we
think, it was supplied to a wealthy Arab gentleman in Saudi-Arabia. It is
also fitted with a "posh" radio, with a remote control sticking up on a
bendy stalk.
It is not used and is in mint condition, it is also painted in "silver
metallic" paint..probably post factory.
It now lives in Scotland.
Chris P DOC UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Espey" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
> We have the following burgundy pieces...
>
> Binnacle
> Glovebox lid
> grab handles
> center console armrest
>
> Most have tags on them that say "Sample for color only", and one says
> "Approved for color only". So we know what shade of burgundy the factory
> intended, but there is not a complete set of parts for a burgundy interior
> car.
>
> As an aside, some of the factory documentation that we have indicates that
> part numbers were assigned for the then upcoming interior colors,
including
> tan, burgundy and blue. No blue parts found yet, however.
>
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas
>
> 281/568-9573
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
>
> > From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 18:59:08 -0400
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [DML] Spare interior pieces
> >
> > I have seen photos on the web of a DeLorean whose owner had redone the
> > interior in burgundy. And someone had mentioned on the DML a long time
ago
> > that they found a few burgundy-colored interior pieces in the warehouse
> > during a tour. Your mention of spare tan interior pieces got me
thinking
> > -- does DMC have enough "spare" tan or burgundy interior pieces to make
a
> > full set of either? The burgundy car actually looks quite striking!
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:56:24 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shipping a Delorean?
Just make sure you get a good shipper. The shipper I used decided I didn't
need the louvers and broke the engine cover in 3 places. The louvers also
bent the roof (2 places), hood, and passanger windshield coulmn upon
exiting the vehicle. The shipper claims it is not their responsibility
since my equipment (engine cover latch) failed.
Ed
10541
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Shipping a Delorean?
> From my opinion, shipping is the way to go. I had my car shipped (State to
> State Auto Transport) to Georgia from Colorado (door to door) for $750.00.
> Also using them to ship another from Wyoming to Ga for $780.00. It was on
a
> 3 car trailer so there was no chance of an above car dripping oil or
> anything on it. They did a good job and their price was better than most.
> They are insured and your car insurance should cover it on its trip too.
> It's cheaper if it is in running condition to drive it on the trailer.
They
> will contact the person where they are to pick it up to set up exact time
> and contact you when they are going to drop it off. They probably even
> remember transporting my delorean. Their # is 800 940-4065.
>
> Good luck
>
>
[Excessive quoted material trimmed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 20:02:25 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
One of the guys in our club, Micah Fryman, "saved" a trashed D from the
salvage yard last year and re-built it. When we re-built the interior, we did
it in a Burgundy, mostly because of the parts found in the DMC warehouse. The
work turned out very well, but the color IS different and takes a little
getting used to. Micah had the car at Ken's Cleveland show last year, and it
got many "comments" to say the least. Micah sure doesn't have any problems
telling which D is his at the shows.
Marty
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 20:25:11 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
I saw a car like this for sale on e-bay (I think) not too long ago..about a
year or so. The owner had just dyed the interior and was looking to sell
it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Parnham [mailto:chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 6:14 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
One of our members has one with a burgundy interior " factory fitted" we
think, it was supplied to a wealthy Arab gentleman in Saudi-Arabia. It is
also fitted with a "posh" radio, with a remote control sticking up on a
bendy stalk.
It is not used and is in mint condition, it is also painted in "silver
metallic" paint..probably post factory.
It now lives in Scotland.
Chris P DOC UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Espey" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Spare interior pieces (burgundy & blue)
> We have the following burgundy pieces...
>
> Binnacle
> Glovebox lid
> grab handles
> center console armrest
>
> Most have tags on them that say "Sample for color only", and one says
> "Approved for color only". So we know what shade of burgundy the factory
> intended, but there is not a complete set of parts for a burgundy interior
> car.
>
[Excessive quoted material trimmed]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 02:14:49 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: impossibly high fuel pressure?
Refer to parts manual 2-1-0 part # 14 or 102359 fuel pipe. Follow to
fuel distributer and remove at the fuel distributer. Hook a temporary
pipe onto the fuel distributer and place the other end in a pail to
catch the fuel. Run the fuel pump (jump the rpm relay) and read the
PRIMARY PRESSURE. (Refer to workshop manual D:02:02 for correct
procedure). It is possible for a problem in the control pressure
circuit to cause primary pressure problems like an eroded restrictor
but I don't think that is the trouble. Until you can get your Primary
pressure under control don't worry about control pressures. Although
you ran a flow test to the tank I think you have a problem with the
return hose and even though you got good flow at the tank it had to
get past a restriction that is causing high pressures at the fuel
distributer. By disconnecting the return at the fuel distributer you
will be "bypassing" any restriction and allowing the fuel to dump
letting the primary pressure regulater work. Since you are deep in the
fuel system I recommend you go to www.motorbooks.com and order book #
112910A for $29.95 Bosch Fuel Injection Handbook and Engine
Management. It gives a very in depth description of the operation of
the K-Jetronic fuel system and troubleshooting procedures. Be careful
in getting advice from people not specific to the Delorean. There are
slight changes in the fuel systems from car to car and what may be
valid for a Volvo for instance may not be true in a Delorean. The
Primary pressure regulater sets system pressure so if it is too high
it is only because it is not sending excess fuel back to the fuel tank
for whatever the reason. A failed cpr should not increase the system
pressure although it can reduce it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hello David (and the rest of the list),
>
> you have so many things to say, i'll just answer each part
individually or
> else we'll both get very confused!!
>
> n a message dated 4/10/01 9:21:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
> jtrealty@xxxx writes:
>
> << > Before you give up I have some ideas you can try. If indeed
your
> > primary pressure is too high besides the primary pressure
regulater
> > being stuck (which you say isn't) >>
>
> i have pulled the bolt and spring/pin assembly. the whole thing is
very
> clean with no corrosion or debris. the pin in the spring moves
easily, and
> the hole in the bolt is not plugged from either direction. so i
must assume
> that this piece functions correctly. after all, there's hardly
anything to
> fail, except for the diaphragm inside the fuel distributer.
>
>
> <<another possability is a restriction
> > in the return line from the regulater to the tank.>>
>
> from the fuel distributer to the tank, everything is kosher.
remember? we
> put a bucket around the return line in the tank and we measured out
the
> correct amount in one minute (2 liters) as stated in the shop
manual. i also
> removed the return line from the control pressure regulator which
goes into
> the side of the fuel distributer. i ran the fuel pump and fuel
flowed out
> very freely, without sputter or dripping. this says that the
control
> pressure regulator is not plugged on the return end, correct? i
would assume
> so.
>
> << Since your resting
> > pressure is about right the fuel accumulater is probably OK.>>
>
> i would be inclined to agree.
>
>
> <<A quick
> > and dirty test is to remove the return line from the regulater and
rig
> > up something temporary into a pail and see if the pressure is now
in a
> > more normal range. >>
>
> can you describe this in greater detail? i don't know if you are
talking
> about the return on the control pressure or the primary pressure.
and when i
> remove it, from what end of the hose? if you could get more
specific, i
> might be able to see what you mean, and maybe i've already done
that.
>
> <<I think the noises from the pump are just it trying
> > too hard against the high pressure, after you can get the pressure
> > right the pump might be alright. >>
>
> that would make sense if the INTAKE side of the fuel system were
plugged.
> however the fuel pump is capable of putting out over 120 PSI of fuel
pressure
> (typically they are twice as strong as the system requires), so i do
not
> think the pump is strained. i was reading about 7.5 bar of
pressure which
> is around this PSI level. i believe the pump is as strong as it
should be,
> but it might not be CONSISTENT!!
>
> <<If you cannot regulate the primary
> > pressure don't bother checking the control pressure, it will be
too
> > high also, it also dumps into the return line to the tank and
besides
> > it receives "regulated" presssure from the primary regulater so if
> > that is too high the control pressure reg can't reduce it enough.
>>
>
> this is what i believed about two days ago. however i have since
talked to an
> engineer at bosch and a K-Jetronic guru at a local import dealer
here, and
> they both say that it is possible to read pressures in excess of 6
or 7 bar
> due solely to a failed control pressure regulator. the primary
pressure
> regulator may be working just fine, however it is possible to get
too high of
> pressure AFTER the primary pressure. i don't really understand it,
but both
> of these guys insisted that the control pressure regulator is at
fault. the
> guy at the import dealer noted that i said my system pressure was
measured at
> about 6.5 bar today and my control pressure is at 3.5 bar on a COLD
ENGINE!!!
> this is definitely not right he said, and the problem lies within
the warm-up
> regulator (CPR to us DMC guys). the problem is the difference
between the
> system and control pressures is too narrow. the warm up pressure on
a cold
> engine is spec'd at around 1.5 bar (i don't see that spec in the
shop manual,
> but he insisted that all of these systems are the same, even on the
> DeLorean), while the hot running temp pressure is supposed to be
around 5.1
> bar. you see the vast difference between the cold and warm
pressures? he
> insists that this is the problem. he says that if i replace my
control
> pressure regulator, my overall system pressure will stabilize and
things
> should be close to perfect again. however, after all of this
pressure shock
> to my fuel system, i may need to add or remove a couple shims on my
primary
> pressure. this weekend i'm borrowing a fuel pump and CPR from a
couple kind
> DML'ers and i have a feeling i will have a few more questions
answered this
> weekend... and i'll be sure to post to the list what happens.
>
> if you or anyone else have any ideas, let me know.
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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