Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Congratulations on radio and some extra info
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Anti freeze leak
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
6. Re: fuel pressure problems
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Post problem
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: New DeLorean Tech site
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Leaking trans fluid...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
11. Re: New DeLorean Tech site
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Anti freeze leak
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. [Fwd: New DeLorean Tech site]
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Tranmition Oil Change
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: fuel pressure problems
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: New DeLorean Tech site
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. gas struts
From: DBJCFAM@xxxxxxx
19. For the new tech section
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. DMCTech
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: New DeLorean Tech site
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
22. Re: New DeLorean Tech site address
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:34:55 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!
Kevin,
The fill indicator lines on the header bottle are approximate. The simple
rule is that you should have between 1/2 inch and 2 inches of coolant at the
bottom of the bottle when the engine is cold.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Abato <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] HELP!!!!!!!!!
>
> Question to all of you: The tank is mounted in a way that it sits on a
> slight angle. This makes the fill lines not "level" are the markings
made
> with this in mind, or should I fill it slightly higher?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:42:31 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
One other additional note, may not be that important but came to
mind. Bend the sharp pointed ends (if there are any) of the spring in
wards so that as you twist/push it into the tube it doesn't pierce
the tube.
This should save people allot of money, instead of replacing the $91
tube, you can get the spring for a few dollars. GREAT IDEA!
Steve Rubano
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, DMCVegas@xxxx wrote:
> [ moderator's note: It's been said many times already but
DISCONNECT the battery before working in the fuel tank areas. ]
>
>
> A while ago the topic of the fuel pump getting noisy when hot was
> brought up again. The problem was identified as a colapsing pickup
> hose that connects from between the prefilter screen in the baffle
to
> the pump itself. The hose is made of soft rubber which becomes
softer
> still when hot. Many fellow DMLer's posted responses with various
> solutions on how to help quiet the noise, but nothing to prevent
the
> hose from fully colapsing. In one of the postings David Teitelbaum
> mentioned the insertion of a spring into the hose. Through a few
> private e-mails with David, he explained to me what parts he used,
> and how. After installing the hose, I finally got the chance to
test
> it, and it does work!
>
> On an 89° day, with less than ¼ tank of gas, the pump ran silent,
and
> the car did not hesitate once! My car was also run up and down some
> steep hills. Steep enough that the needle on my gas gague bottomed
> out at 0. I need put put this (along with some other items) into a
> write up(s) for the technical library. I'll see about it this
> weekend, but just incase I don't get to it, here's the quick run-
> thru. I'll put the full details in later.
>
> The spring is a screen door type available from Home Depot. Size
is:
> 9/16"x16-1/2"x .054.
>
> <SNIP>
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:12:26 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Congratulations on radio and some extra info
I know you've allready gotten it to work,
but I thought this might be helpfull to someone else too.
> I have been thinking of hooking up to one of the wires going to the clock in
> the center console (my DeLorean don't have the clock, but the wiring is
> still there. Now, the question is: Does the clock wiring have +12V IGN or
> does it only have +12V CONTINUOUS???
It has both!
> The wires going to that 4 pin plug have the following colors:
At this moment I'm working on a color-version of the widely spread
wiring diagram. I'm putting it together as it is on paper and will
probably distribute it in PDF-form.
This would be nice to have for identifying the various wires.
Due to illnesses at work and several other things I haven't been
able to work on it lately, but just to let everyone know:
It's being made! Quite a lot of work, so don't start on it too;
that would be a waste of time considering how far I allready am...
> 2 purple going into 1 pin
+12V continous
> 1 white/green going into 1 pin
+12V IGN/ACC
> 1 black going into 1 pin ( I believe this is ground?)
Ground
> 1 red/orange wire going into 1 pin
Lights
This last wire is meant for dimming the clock at night,
so it doesn't "glare" from being the brightest light.
The effect is about the same as the AC-panellights dimming
whith the lights on (unless modified to only light up when
the lights are on or (as I did on mine) to be dimmed all the time)
Post a picture of your radio on you site, I'm sure I'm not the only
one that's curious to what you put in; all I know is that it's a SONY...
Greetings again,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:12:35 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
Stian wrote:
> Living in Europe I was wondering what is the correct tire pressure for the
> DeLorean. The manual talks about PSI, but over here we measure it in BAR.
> So...what are the correct tire pressure in BAR?
Please look at the owners manual, page 40:
tire pressures are stated both in PSI (Ponds per Square Inch translates into lbf/in2)
and BAR (don't know the abbreviation, but it translates to Kgf/cm2)
If your manual doesn't have this info you can download one in PDF-format
that does include this information, just as it states measurements both
in inches as in millimeters and so on...
The manual can be obtained from:
<ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/ownmanr1.pdf>
also take a look at
<http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html>
There's a lot there!
Hope this helps,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:42:22 -0000
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
Subject: Anti freeze leak
Recently we have developed an anti freeze leak that troubles me. It
appears to be coming from two threaded holes to the right and above
the oil filter and starter. These holes appear to be the backside of
head bolt holes that come into the block? This leads me to believe
loose head bolts, bad head gasket, or even worse. Only leaks when
cold and setting a couple of days. Does not leak when running and
will not for 48 hrs after shutoff. But slowly the drip starts from
the end of the threads after about 2 days.
Anyone had this experience or have any ideas?
Ron & Cheryl
#6322
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:58:55 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pressure problems
The vacuum line from the rear of the drivers side of the intake manifold
goes under the manifold to the center orifice of the thermo control valve.
The line coming from the thermo control valve's right side orifice goes to
the pressure control unit. It splits into two hoses prior to hooking to that
unit. One hose supplies vacuum to the top side of the control unit and the
other, through a delay valve [ black half faces the line going into the
unit ] which momentarily delays the vacuum supply to the bottom half of the
control unit. This gives a rich 'spike' to the engine during acceleration
while the engine is still cold. The third hose coming from the left orifice
of the thermo control valve goes to the distributor advance solenoid. When
the engine is cold the valve supplies vacuum to the control pressure
regulator and when the engine warms up the valve shifts and supplies vacuum
to the distributor advance system. In other words there's vacuum at the
control pressure regulator when the engine is cold, not when it's warmed up.
There is no vacuum to the distributor advance solenoid when the engine is
cold, there is when it's warmed up. That should be easy to check.. You can't
see the thermo control valve without removing the manifold so the only other
way to check is by feel. There's not much room under the intake so if you
have big hands it's tough to do. Some cars came from the factory hooked up
wrong but there's no way they wouldn't have been made right by now. Anyhow,
make sure the vacuum lines are correct before you spend time tracking other
possible problems.
Bruce Benson
> When I fixed the wires to the fuel pressure regulator and hooked the
vaccuum
> hoses back up, the engine ran richer. I've been turning and turning the
CO
> screw closed, but when it reaches a point where it's not spewing black
smoke
> anymore, the car will not idle or run at all below 4000RPM.
>
> I can not 'take it out for a drive'... the engine does not run well enough
> by itself...
>
> Is there a way I can ensure the spark advance is working/getting vaccuum?
> Besides checking timing- of course... I'm pretty sure my timing plate is
not
> stock, and am unsure of it's usefulness...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:13:04 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Post problem
The length of the line is generally set by the browser at the sending end,
not your computer. Very common, not just on the list. Senders don't know
they're doing it unless notified. Many browsers at the receiving end have a
setting that says something like "wrap long lines." If not, tricks often
work, like pretending to forward the message or reply to the message, when
the original message is quoted it normally falls into readable form.
Les
Watkins Family wrote:
> Is anyone else havng a problem with posts that have sentences that are
> too long and you must scroll over to read it?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:20:43 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Tech site
Hello Group,
Ok, to do my part in helping create info for the new(bie) Tech Site, I'm
going to go out and take detailed photographs of my Delorean, specifically
to answer the basic questions below - all of which I had when I bought #1619
less than a year ago. Most of these I had to figure out myself, DMCJoe
helped explain many, and some are obvious if you know something about cars.
But in general, it will be a simple guide/photo glossary for all the terms
all you experts brandish about so easily, that some of us may understand,
but don't know where to begin to look to find them. Ok, here's the list:
** What should I look for when shopping for (or just bought) a DeLorean **
(Each of these will have one or two photographs to answer the question. This
is intended to be a "show-and-tell", and not a "how-to-repair".)
What does the front-end suspension update look like?
What does the ball-joint nut update look like?
What does the throttle cable shield update look like?
Where should I look for common frame rust problems?
What does the fan fail bypass look like?
Where is the lambda counter, and what does it look like?
Where is the cooling fan thermal switch (otterstat) to test my fans?
Where is the inertia switch, and how to tell if it's been updated?
Where is the fuel accumulator, and what does it look like?
Where is the cold start valve, and what does it look like?
Where is the oxygen sensor, and what does it look like?
Where is the frequency valve, and what does it look like?
Where is the full throttle microswitch, and what does it look like?
Where is the idle speed regulator, and what does it look like?
Where are the ignition compensating resistors, and what do they look like?
Have the clutch lines been upgraded replaced with SS?
If anyone has some BASIC components they want to include in a list like
this, please email me (and a short description on where to find said part),
and I'll do my best to photograph them and include them. I'll submit them
to the new Yahoo Tech Site and may put them up on a website as well - I was
thinking yourfirstdelorean.com.
-Hank Eskin #1619
heskin(at)bellatlantic.net
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:23:06 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
No-- it has nothing to do with the number of songs.
I've bought and recorded on the 70 min. CDrs, and they are fine.
They are fine with most CD players, most CDROMs.
They usually don't work with DVD drives/players, however.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
> >>>most car radios will play CD-R discs. CD-RW is a different story. I
do
> not
> know of any that do that.>>>
>
> Hope this isn't to far off subject, but I thought it might be helpful
info.
> I just got a CD-burner for my computer and here is what I have learned,
> CD-RW is only for data storage, so don't bother trying to write audio
files
> to it.
> CD-R works on most cd players but it depends alot on the quality of CD-R
> disc that you get. It also depends on what color disc you are using. There
> are 3 different colors,
> silver, gold, and blue. Try and get CD-R's that have a silver surface if
you
> are having trouble.
> Also, I tried recording 12 songs on a CD-R and it played in my home stereo
> but not my car stereo.
> I then just recorded 10 songs on the next one and it played fine in both
> after that. It may have something
> to do with to many songs taking up the memory on the disc and your car
> stereo not being able to read it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:24:08 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Leaking trans fluid...
My D is an automatic, and it is leaking RED trans fluid.
Any suggestions as to the problem and the cost of the fix?
Thanks again,
Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:37:13 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Tech site
Fantastic!...do it!
Les
Hank Eskin wrote:
> Hello Group,
>
> Ok, to do my part in helping create info for the new(bie) Tech Site,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:34:57 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Anti freeze leak
Hi Ron,
Check for antifreeze under the intake manifold.
----- Original Message -----
From: <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: [DML] Anti freeze leak
> Recently we have developed an anti freeze leak that troubles me. It
> appears to be coming from two threaded holes to the right and above
> the oil filter and starter. These holes appear to be the backside of
> head bolt holes that come into the block? This leads me to believe
> loose head bolts, bad head gasket, or even worse. Only leaks when
> cold and setting a couple of days. Does not leak when running and
> will not for 48 hrs after shutoff. But slowly the drip starts from
> the end of the threads after about 2 days.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:41:19 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: New DeLorean Tech site]
Forgot, add in trailing arms and bolts?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 00:46:19 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Noise Cured!
I actually just performed this procedure on one of the new fuel pickup
lines last weekend. The new ($91) one is of very high quality, much
stiffer than the original ones. I figured this would help prevent it
from collapsing when heated, so I decided just to leave it at that.
But I was at a surplus store over the weekend and somthing really
caught my eye. A HUGE tub of identical springs, with a similar size
to the pickup line. But what really caught my attention was thier
flexibility. I had pondered putting a spring in my original line but
I could never find one flexible enough to keep the line in its
original form. I decided to buy one ($0.85) just so I could see how
well it fit. Well, it couldn't have been a better size, it fits in
the new pickup line snugly, along with keeping the line in its
original shape. Now its IMPOSSIBLE to kink, or collapse the new line.
The only downside I can see from this is that the spring is ordinary
steel. So if I ever let the line go dry it may start to rust, but
that isn't unlike the fuel pump or any other car's gas tank. I would
strongly suggest this mod to ANYONE, regardless of the condition of
your new or original hose. It will lengthen the life of your fuel
pump and relieve much annoyace from a noisy pump. Happy Driving!
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:30:08 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tranmition Oil Change
Its probably a good idea to change all of your fluids if you have just
acquired the vehicle that way you know the starting point. Changing the
automatic transmission fluid depends on how you drive it and what climate
you drive it in. Make sure you check the condition of the two rubber hoses
going to the transmission cooler from the transmission, if they look old
replace them. A local hydraulic shop can replace the hose and reuse the
existing fittings. In hot climate on a daily driver should probably be
changed every year. If you drive only weekends like me, maybe every couple
years.
The transmission is the one toward the front of the car and the
"Differential" is the one toward the rear of the car. The transmission can
be filled from the dipstick tube in the engine compartment. Don't over fill.
Also, last I heard was that there were no transmission filter screens
available. James?? Use regular 80-90 weight gearoil in the Differential.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 7:53 AM
Subject: [DML] Tranmition Oil Change
> How do you change the transmition oil and how often should it be
> done? I realise there are 2 sump plugs under the transmition unit
> (Automatic) but I assume one of these is the automatic transmition
> fluid and one is the transmition oil, but which is wich, I don't want
> to drain the wrong one.
> What oil do you put in the transmition and where do you fill it from ?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:49:36 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pressure problems
Ok, I'm going out on a limb here. Have you checked for plugged injectors
yet. This is my logic. Since we only have six cylinders, if one or two
injectors get plugged or stop working will result in a higher gas pressure
in the remaining system. Therefore putting more gas into the working
cylinders, hence black smoke and also the fact that the engine will not idle
when the CO screw is leaned out and will not idle under 4000 RPM.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Strickland" <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 1:15 PM
Subject: [DML] fuel pressure problems
> (formerly subject: frequency valve again)
>
> When I fixed the wires to the fuel pressure regulator and hooked the
vaccuum
> hoses back up, the engine ran richer. I've been turning and turning the
CO
> screw closed, but when it reaches a point where it's not spewing black
smoke
> anymore, the car will not idle or run at all below 4000RPM.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:54:02 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Tech site
At the risk of imposing on your generosity I would like your thoughts on the
following additions:
How do I tell if the Relay update has been installed?
Also, it would be of some use to me to know the priority of each item. As
an example:
Update XYZ is a must since it can prevent the car from catching fire.
Update ABC is a nice to have because...
This may help prioritize budget issues for some.
BTW, many thanks to all because I only knew about 4 of the items below so
I'm sure I'll be asking more questions.
Ed (newbie) Garbade
10541 starting week 3 of ownership
----- Original Message ----- > ** What should I look for when shopping for
(or just bought) a DeLorean **
>
> (Each of these will have one or two photographs to answer the question.
This
> is intended to be a "show-and-tell", and not a "how-to-repair".)
>
> What does the front-end suspension update look like?
> What does the ball-joint nut update look like?
> What does the throttle cable shield update look like?
> Where should I look for common frame rust problems?
> What does the fan fail bypass look like?
> Where is the lambda counter, and what does it look like?
> Where is the cooling fan thermal switch (otterstat) to test my fans?
> Where is the inertia switch, and how to tell if it's been updated?
> Where is the fuel accumulator, and what does it look like?
> Where is the cold start valve, and what does it look like?
> Where is the oxygen sensor, and what does it look like?
> Where is the frequency valve, and what does it look like?
> Where is the full throttle microswitch, and what does it look like?
> Where is the idle speed regulator, and what does it look like?
> Where are the ignition compensating resistors, and what do they look like?
> Have the clutch lines been upgraded replaced with SS?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:24:55 EST
From: DBJCFAM@xxxxxxx
Subject: gas struts
Could somebody please tell me if there is a cross-reference for hood and
trunk struts?
Thanks,
Dennis
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:36:17 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: For the new tech section
From my files, contributed by RalphSandstrom, the first tip: "when in
doubt, the problem is electrical."
Was planning a vendor section, hope that will be included. Who they
are, what they carry and how to get at them. Not included in my files
yet, but an inquiry sent out to, Darryl Tinnerstet, who is a vendor but
I don't know what he vends except for his own steering column bushing.
He's a tech writer and has been doing the D for 15 years. We need to
know more.
Les
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:06:16 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMCTech
Looking good, I was member #5 earlier today I see it's up to #16, let's
all jump in and see what happens, this is a great opportunity. Maybe
percolate a given topic through the list and once that topic is covered,
with the most likely answers, nail it in DMCTech so it doesn't need to
be covered again, we can then go on to something else. Wayne sounds like
this is what he's looking for and also that he feels he can handle it,
with sufficient input. Let's do it!
Les
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:37:55 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Tech site
Are you designing the site information for Concourse d' elegance cars
(incorporating the Concourse judging manual) or are you directing the
information for the daily driver DeLorean's?
Mike Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:53:38 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: New DeLorean Tech site address
In a message dated 3/28/01 6:20:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Here is the correct address for DMCTECH.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCTech >>
You're correct. When I set up the site, it was eGroups not Yahoo, as
reflected in the notes scattered throughout the site. When I updated the
site last night I overlooked the change. And about three misspellings. :p I
fixed it. Thanks, Scott!
-Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
DMCTech Moderator
Editor, The New DeLorean Manuals Project
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN