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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Hello list
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Fan Shroud
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Thank you all
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: more info on my car...
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: more info on my car...
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Attn: Les Huckins (was Hello List)
From: George Liquor <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
7. RE: grinding noise
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Thank you all
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Windows don't close properly
From: fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: Beware of Jag Shop - PLEASE READ
From: whocruiser@xxxxxxx
11. Re: grinding noise
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Now we need a name
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Windows don't close properly
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. loose steering
From: edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx
15. Re: Now we need a name
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
16. Just got my first DeLorean
From: "Jason G." <iwn2bceo@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Heated Side Mirrors???
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Windows don't close properly
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
19. Re: loose steering
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:03:02 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hello list
Les and Group, I can start building this info on the web site if
people want to feed me the info.I can create a new page for it.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> Two months ago was my D-day 1. I'm a pretty fair hand at stumbling
> around a computer (actually I run a backyard computer business) and
I've
> done a lot of mechanicals. Whatever it is, I've done it, from
inside
> the speedometer to inside the differential, I've been there.
Nothing
> I've met is like the D.
>
> Here's what I'm getting at, I would very much like to have known
that I
> shouldn't have lifted up one corner of the car with a floor jack
before
> I did it. I also wish I had known that those screws in the tail
light
> assemblies were not Philips before I messed up the heads a little..
>
> I'm lobbying for helping the next guys, a section called "Start up
> facts" or "First facts" or something along those lines. FAQ
doesn't get
> it, that only told me what grade of gasoline to use.
>
> Here's the question, do you agree that it's a good idea? Will you
> contribute? If you think it's a good idea and If you'll kick in
data,
> I'll do the grunt work.
>
> This is strictly for startup, the real problems will continue to be
> addressed by the list.
>
> Let me know, aye or nay, I'm not going to push it, I've got mine,
but I
> don't want to be one of those who says save the trees, once his own
> house is built.
>
> Les
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:09:42 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan Shroud
Mike, I think they are about $120.00 at DMC Houston new.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Group,
>
> Does anybody have a in good condition used fan shroud for sale.
Mine is
> busted on the right hand side and have decided it's time to replace
it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike Atkinson
> vin 16232
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.237 / Virus Database: 115 - Release Date: 3/7/01
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 15:49:24 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Thank you all
Enough interested responses so that it can be considered a valid
concept. Now, how do I say this without hurting anyone's feelings.
This is a primer I'm considering, not a subjective how to do it. As
much as I admire John Hervey and appreciate his offer, I prefer it on
the list area some place. I want a summation, a compilation of ideas
on any given entity, not an article written by an individual. A
consensus by the majority of what works best and how to do it. I don't
envision a whole lot of topics, rather the basics well covered, easy to
find and easy to understand. I'm sure you remember that a camel was a
horse designed by committee.
Les
.
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 00:26:36 +0100
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: more info on my car...
In the technical manual it states the system has 29 gallons per hour running
thru the system which is basically 2 litres a minute. If Andy had 2 litres
back in a minute then all is OK and start checking the Control Pressure with
a gauge.
If there was a blockage then in 1 minute there would obviously be less fuel
back to the pump, if more than 2 litres then either the pump is working to
hard or the primary CPR needs adjusting.
A little tip DMC Joe gave me....Pull out the injectors and putting them
into jars, then run the fuel pump. When the air flow sensor is closed the
injector should be closed with maybe just a SMALL amount of fuel forming on
the injector. Then as soon as you touch the air flow sensor the injectors
should start spraying (cone shaped), and be proportional to the pressure on
the air flow sensor.
If the CPR was faulty this could cause the car to run rich all the time and
like David mentioned cold start/cold acceleration problems.
Like David said Andy needs to eliminate the Control pressure by using a
gauge (as per workshop manual ) connecting it inline with the fuel line from
the top centre of the fuel distributor and the CPR ( left hand rocker cover
behind the oil filler ).
A quick test of the Lambda system.. Andy said it was buzzing so when the car
is at running temp, press and hold the microswitch by the throttle spool and
the engine tone should change and the FV will buzz at a constant.
I thought at first you had opened the fuel distributor, just a note do not
remove the 3 screws that hold the 2 parts of the distributor together. Once
you open it you will never get it to seal again and you will need to spend
$500 to get it repaired by a Bosch centre.
regards
Chris Spratt
Vin 16327
DOC UK
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 10:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: more info on my car...
> Just because you are getting fuel flow from the return line doesn't
> mean it isn't restricted. You NEED to get a gauge setup on the car so
> you can find the source of the problem. I think you will find it to be
> either a resticted return line or a stuck Primary Control Pressure
> Regulater. The warm-up regulater is the control pressure regulater on
> the left valve cover and the primary control pressure regulater is on
> the side of the fuel distributer. If you assume the test you performed
> gave you 2 liters of fuel when you should have had 3 then you would
> know with certainty that the line is blocked. Unfortunatly I do not
> know the return flow rate so I don't think that is a valid test. If
> the system pressure is too high it can only mean that the Primary
> control pressure regulater either isn't working or the return line is
> restricted or blocked. I think the regulater you took apart is the
> control pressure regulater (warm-up regulater) and I don't think it is
> the source of your troubles. Failure of this component usually results
> in hard cold start conditions and trouble with cor fuel
> enrichment.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> > Hey All,
> >
> > today i took off my control pressure regulator and opened it up. it
> appears
> > to be quite clean, and the screen is clear. i only unscrewed the
> bottom four
> > screws and checked it in there. i blew air thru the vacuum nipple
> on the
> >
> > Andy
> >
> > Soma576@xxxx
> > 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> > Fargo, ND 58102
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:29:02 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: more info on my car...
Andy,
How much fuel is in your tank?
The reason I ask is that this morning I decided to take my car out for a
drive.
I started it up and the RPM's varied from 500 to 2000. This has never
happened on my car before.
It turns out that the fuel level was just about nil. I put about a gallon
in that I had in a gas can and restarted. The cold idle then varied
correctly.
Make sure that your fuel pump suction line is not twisted or collapsed and
the return line is dumping fuel into the baffle.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 12:49 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] more info on my car...
Hey All,
today i took off my control pressure regulator and opened it up. it appears
to be quite clean, and the screen is clear. i only unscrewed the bottom
four
screws and checked it in there. i blew air thru the vacuum nipple on the
side of it and i could see the diaphram moving in and out. so i know that i
have good vacuum in there. i do not want to take the gasket off in there
because i think that would be very difficult to fix and put in again!!!
should i take the regulator apart any further to inspect it more?
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:37:31 -0600
From: George Liquor <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Attn: Les Huckins (was Hello List)
The day-by-day manual sounds like an excellent idea. Like, "When you
get a DeLorean out of storage, you need to check the fuel system. This
is done by ..." and then "if you see ____, this means the system is
contaminated. Flush it by ..." Also, for people like me, who basically
have all variety and sizes of pliers and wrenches but no "pro" equipment
(hard to have that on a third floor apartment), perhaps include a
footnote for which tools might be required? If you need any help
formatting the document, I offer my services. I can't do much else but
the project sounds great. :)
Regards,
Farrar Hudkins
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:43:19 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: grinding noise
Mat,
It may be your fuel pump making noise. When the fuel level gets low, and
you have been driving for a while, the pump will cavitate. The cavitation
happens because the fuel has heated up because of recirculation, heat from
the cooling pipes and air blown from the radiator fans. Also, the rubber
fuel pump suction line can collapse when it gets warm, or maybe there is a
tear in it that becomes exposed when the fuel level drops.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
BLuDSuKKuR@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> I was driving my Delorean as usual...I was listening to music and
about
> an hour into the ride i noticed a noise...I wasnt aware at this point it
was
> coming from my car...so i turned down the music and listened...It was my
> car...it seems to be coming from the front...the only thing that i could
> guess it was, was the fans...it seems to be this very large grinding
> noise...my car has never had problems like this before...i am not a
mechanic
> so i dont know to much about what it could be...
> thanks in advance
> -matt
> 5510
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:44:31 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Thank you all
Les, I didn't say I would write it. I just said I would host it. Everyone on the list can write it. Then when it is done it can be moved to a neutral site. Such as DML. Unless someone in the group wants to write it on the site as it goes.
No offense taken.
John Hervey
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 01:03:54 -0000
From: fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Windows don't close properly
Hi List,
My windows don't close properly. I need to guide them while closing
and leave about a 1/2 inch gap from the top.
Do you think they have come off the tracks? Is there anything else I
should look for? I am missing the wipes on both sides.
Thanks,
Fernando Dillard
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 01:31:18 -0000
From: whocruiser@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Beware of Jag Shop - PLEASE READ
Dear Tom -
I am sorry to hear that you are still upset with The Jag Shop after
recieving your car from them. Obviously you have some serious issues
with each other, but as I said on the local Florida Delorean list
back when you first mentioned your ongoing problem with them back in
January, I do feel that I must say a few things in defense of The Jag
Shop. I have been a regular customer of David Wynne & THe Jag Shop
for several years now, and have never received anything less than
complete honesty & professionalism from them. David has learned
every detail of Delorean service from his uncle Stephen Wynn at DMC
in Houston, and is by far the most proficient Delorean mechanic in
Florida, and we are lucky to have him & his shop here, as they are
the only truly qualified Delorean specialists south of DMC Joe in
Georgia. In all of the time I've been going to them, my car has been
kept in top running condition, and they have dealt with many problems
that would have sent my old mechanic screaming from the bay in
bewilderment. My care is not only a daily driver but, in fact, my
ONLY car, and with rare exceptions, Dave has kept it running better
and more reliably than many of my friends' and co-workers' "normal"
cars. Dave even guarantees all of the original DMC parts, which he
has immediete access to through his direct connection to DMC Houston,
and has even gone so far for me as to replace 3 high pressure side AC
compressor hoses that blew out in a 4 month period, then have custom
made for me a new steel-reinforced replacement hose using the
original Delorean fittings, all at no extra charge, even for his
considerable extra labor, and the hose fabricator's charges, just to
make good and keep a regular customer's good will. I only wish that I
could afford to have them do more of the (mostly cosmetic) work that
my car still needs, but that my budget will not currently allow! I
did have one bad experience, relating to having my frame rebuilt to
replace the rusted areas, but this was due to a majority of the job
needing to be subed out to another local shop (Top Gun Automotive)
that was equipped to do the needed welding & painting, which Dave's
shop is not. They took forever, and when I got the car back, it had
a thin mist of white paint over various areas, as Top Gun had failed
to properly cover it when spraying someone else's car in the same
garage. Even then, both Dave & the guy from Top Gun were happy to
promptly correct the situation at their expense. From what you told
me at the time, some body work was involved in your repairs, and I'm
sure that your car must also have been subbed out as mine was, if not
to Top Gun, than to another area body shop, as Dave does not do that
type of work in-house. That might well explain a lot if someone else
was mucking about under the spare tire area and beside the gas tank,
as they would have had to have done to reach the fibreglass/plastic
beneath the front quarter panel to do the body repairs you described
to me. While no shop is always perfect, and I'm sure you feel you
have valid reasons to be upset, I must again say that by my own
personal experiences, I've found Dave Wynne & THe Jag Shop to be a
first class facility, a valuable resource for Florida Delorean
owners, and certainly the best place in Florida to continue taking my
Delorean to for service.
Dan Harris VIN#1662 81 Auto W/Blk. Int. & Gas Flap
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxx> wrote:
> Please read the following post. It might save you a lot trouble and
money!
>
> I want to warn everybody about the Jag Shop in Pompano Beach,
Florida.
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:37:48 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: grinding noise
Matt, Kinda like Les said. The clearence of the fan blades from the mounting shroud is very limited. Just check to see if anything is loose. #1. Turn off the battery power, jack up the car a little, then stablize it. Then look under and turn the fan blades by hand and see if there are touching. There is much clearence. That is most likly the problem. If it looks like it's a motor. I can rebuild it or replace it. They do get dirty and they have brushes that can be replaced.
John hervey
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:44:16 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Now we need a name
Ok guys what best exemplifies the task at hand. Give me your best shot.
Here's mine: So you bought a DeLorean, now what?
(A DeLorean Primer)
Your thoughts?
Thanks, Les
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:50:51 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windows don't close properly
What else is new???
Try the "Start" menu, then "Shutdown", or just use a Mac.
[ Sorry, I just couldn't resist the temptation... ;) ]
-Hank #1619
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 02:00:19 -0000
From: edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: loose steering
I was checking out the front end and noticed that it seems that
pushing and pulling on the sides of the tire it would move about 5
degrees before the steering shaft would move. Looking into it further
with the wheel off and checking the linkage of the steering rack it
seems that the rod that goes into the gear box has slop in it before
the steering shaft would move. Can this be fixed or do I need a new
rack and pinion assy and i read on a previous post someone asked if
there was a cross ref part for this pinion assy but could not find
out if it was answered. Thanks ED HERRMANN VIN 16228
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 21:03:49 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Now we need a name
Mine is Delorean Newbe as someone said earlier.
or shoiuld it be De Lorean Newbe.
John Hervey
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 02:18:41 -0000
From: "Jason G." <iwn2bceo@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Just got my first DeLorean
Hello all,
I am the proud new owner of #2347. On Thursday night I left Fargo,
ND and drove to near Tulsa Ok. Two friends, one suburban, one
trailer and 34 hours later I was finally heading off to
bed....mission complete. Of course, it has problems. With any luck,
you have already come up with solutions. The windows, locks, and fuel
system are current problems. The car seems to run rich. Hopefully
that is an easy fix. Everthing else is just tinker work. Thanks for
all of your advice, as I have been studying it for over a month now.
Jason
DMC #2347
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 02:24:50 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Heated Side Mirrors???
I was going through the large wiring diagram today, when I noticed
somthing strange jutting off of the rear-defog timer. They both were
numbered "232" which I checked to find listed as "mirror heaters".
Now I know the D does not have heated mirrors. So would this be
somthing they had planned, but never implemented? And if the wiring
is acually in place for them, has anyone had any luck "upgrading" the
mirrors on your cars? All comments welcome.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 02:37:06 -0000
From: shirazcupala@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Windows don't close properly
I had a similar problem. It is highly likely that they're off the
track. Also, in my case my window was having trouble because the
regulator bracket was snapped. I managed to have a friend weld the
bracked back together and it works fine now. I found it fairly easy
to open up the door and figure out how the windows work. Pretty
simple mechanism. Let me know if you have more questions.
shiraz
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, fdillard@xxxx wrote:
> Hi List,
> My windows don't close properly. I need to guide them while closing
> and leave about a 1/2 inch gap from the top.
>
> Do you think they have come off the tracks? Is there anything else
I
> should look for? I am missing the wipes on both sides.
>
> Thanks,
> Fernando Dillard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 03:54:37 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: loose steering
If you have concluded that the looseness, (play) is in the steering
rack make sure that the bolts holding it to the frame are tight and
the entire rack is not moving. If indeed the rack has play in it the
recommended course of action is to remove and replace. The Delorean
venders can supply a "rebuilt" rack with exchange of your old core. It
is beyond the abilities of most to work on and the safety issues
involved would make most consider repalcement. About the only thing
you can do is lubricate if tight or "sticky" but that doesn't seem to
be your problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, edherrmann@xxxx wrote:
> I was checking out the front end and noticed that it seems that
> pushing and pulling on the sides of the tire it would move about 5
> degrees before the steering shaft would move. Looking into it
further
> with the wheel off and checking the linkage of the steering rack it
> seems that the rod that goes into the gear box has slop in it before
> the steering shaft would move. Can this be fixed or do I need a new
> rack and pinion assy and i read on a previous post someone asked if
> there was a cross ref part for this pinion assy but could not find
> out if it was answered. Thanks ED HERRMANN VIN 16228
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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