Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Project Delorean Site Update
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
2. Aug.81...anything to look for
From: bigbenb84@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Hissing sound, radio removal, center console removal
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
From: "dmczr1" <dmczr1@xxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: will probably need to clean entire fuel system!
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
8. Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Compatible Fascia Paint Code?
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re. Fuel Sender
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
11. Re: Thermo Time Switch
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Thermo Time Switch
From: "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Hissing sound, radio removal, center console removal
From: "Mike Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. anyone have new wheels?
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: Was Thermo Time Switch; Now Hard Cold Start
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
17. Few corrections on the return line post I made!
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
18. Re: Re: Thermo Time Switch
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
19. Re: Stripping paint
From: "Skipper Landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. RE: Re. Fuel Sender
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Aftermarket radio wiring
From: "Skipper Landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. CALLING ALL BATON ROUGE, LA. DMC OWNERS!!!
From: "Skipper Landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Car Alarm (all options, easy install) for D!
From: thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Few corrections on the return line post I made!
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. Climate Control Temp Switch
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:32:45 EST
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Project Delorean Site Update
I've completed the restoration of the front trunk ("tub") area on 'ol 02650
and she's now wearing a fresh coat of satin black paint. Feel free to check
it out.
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:33:11 EST
From: bigbenb84@xxxxxxx
Subject: Aug.81...anything to look for
Hey people,
I'm looking at this Aug.81, 5spd, black int., groved hood w/flap
DeLorean for sale and want to buy it....
MY question is, are there any special things I should look out
for in an Aug.81.......like what updates should I look for. I've never seen a
complerte list of updates for DeLoreans, just people mentioning them.
-The body is very nice, no dents and no frame rust....
-Facias are almost perfect...
-The dash is great but passenger seat is cracked up and can see white
material and headliners are fine...
The man says the battery is dead cause the alternator is shot. I think
the alt. is orignal...it has a gold fan blade, couldn't see any markings??
thats what he thinks, because the volt gauge doesn't show a charge. So I
can't start it. Whenever I get to put a charger on it or something and get it
running I'll see if the a/c works and all that stuff.
Ben
BigBenb84@xxxxxxx
Pensacola, FL.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 23:12:27 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hissing sound, radio removal, center console removal
Jim,
So you have 'kind of' gotten the radio out WITHOUT removing the console?
Unless you have an aftermarket DIN radio, you must be a magician. The same
bracket that holds the radio also holds the mode switch. In order to get
the radio out, you need to get the bracket out. And before you get the
bracket out, you need to remove the console. If you take all this apart,
then be careful with the center air vents. There is a flexible vinyl duct
connecting the vents to the a/c. It is very easy to put it back on wrong
and mess up your air flow.
Once you have the mode switch in hand, you might find that your problem was
a hose that pulled loose or the rubber seal inside has dried out. Just take
it apart, clean it and then lube it up with a very small amount of silicone
grease. It should be as good as new after that.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:04:50 -0700
From: "dmczr1" <dmczr1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
Andy,
I just replaced a failed accumulator on my '82 (last month). Mine had
the classic symptoms described on the DML site. It was hard starting when
hot. Mine would start fine, no problem when cold. there was no difference
there between before and after the new accumulator.
I would drive it and get it up to operating temperature. If I shut it off
and tried re-starting it in under about 10 minutes, no problem. If I waited
longer than 10 minutes but less than about an hour it was almost impossible
to re-start. I would have to crank on that mother till I thought the
battery was almost dead. I would try it with pedal to the floor, foot not
on pedal, halfway down, made no difference.
Since replacing the accumulator, the problem has gone away.
What you describe sounds like something other than the accumulator. don't
replace it unless you have to , it's a real PITA.
Good luck.
Jack Janney
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 2:25 PM
Subject: [DML] what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
> Hello guys,
>
> as a summary, my symptoms are:
> 1. hard starting when cold
> 2. somewhat hard starting when warm, but MUCH easier
> 3. engine dies sometimes even after being warm
> 4. RPM's flow from 1000 to 500 when idling. as it approaches 500 every
time,
> the engine nearly quits but it surges back up like it should.
> 5. extremely high fuel pressure - over 100 psi, probably closer to 130 or
> greater.
> 6. recently had a fuel line leak near the accumulator. i do not know if it
> was a hose that connects to it or where exactly it was. i had the car
towed
> and 'they fixed it'. i had problems starting the day the leak happened.
it
> could have happened before or after i had trouble.
>
> do these symptoms or problems have a good relation to what happens when
you
> have a failed fuel accumulator? i am still trying to figure all of this
out.
>
> thanks as always,
> Andy
>
>
> Soma576@xxxxxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 23:15:54 -0500
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
I know that Decker's vin#5000 had similar problems that you described, last
year. Bill Lane and myself, mostly Bill, removed the intake cleaned the fuel
system and checked everything that we could think of to no avail. Turn out
to be a collapsed fuel line going to the accumulator. Just a guess, but I
think that I would check this. The hoses are heat sealed and if done
incorrectly they will collapse. Rob Grady can most likely prepare a
replacement fuel line for you. Just a thought.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 04:49:03 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: will probably need to clean entire fuel system!
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
I think that taking a shotgun approach is not the way to go. It can be
very expensive because you will be replacing good parts and you may
also damage some. If necessary start at the beginning and troubleshoot
foward. Maybe you should start with a complete tune-up. Bad spark
plugs or dirty injecters could cause these symptoms and you may have
more than 1 problem. Even a bad set of ignition wires could be part of
the problem. A bad fuel accumulater is indicated by hard hot start so
at this time I think you can rule out fuel tank, fuel pump, filter,
accumulater, cold start valve?. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge
set-up so you can correctly determine fuel pressures but at this point
you can't rule out ignition problems. It could possibly be a
combination of both. To start somewhere if it hasn't had a recent
tune-up that may be the way to go. If you have inspected the fuel tank
and it is clean then the fuel system is probably mostly in good shape.
Just thinking out loud. Good Luck.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 Sometimes it is not clear where to start.
> Hello All,
>
> with all of my recent problems, i've come to a conclusion:
>
> first of all, i'm going to have to come to grips that i will have to
be my
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 05:03:51 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
The purpose of the fuel acumulator is to maintain pressure within the
fuel system to keep gasoline in the lines from vaporizing. The extra,
soft hose that's connected from the accumulator to the return line is
only used when the accumulator goes bad. If the seals inside the case
break, then the extra hose directs fuel to the gas tank rather then
letting it spill onto the ground. Symptoms of a defective accumulator
would be hard starting when warm, but not when cold. It does indeed
sound like you have a restriction somewhere in you fuel system.
The Volvo repair manual for the 760 K-Jetronic system indicates that
your idle and starting problems are likely the result of incorrect
fuel pressure. You have already determined that you fuel pressure is
too high. It may be possible the the injectors are allowing too much
fuel to enter the cylinders. More fuel then the engine can burn off.
But first correct the pressure issue.
The DeLorean workshop manual states that excessivly high fuel line
pressure is caused by a restriction in the fuel RETURN system. But
you don't know exactly where the leak was comming from. Most likely
the cause of the leak was the soft hose that connects from the
accumulator to the return hose. If this was the case, then a leak
there would make sense because this hose is not designed for high
pressure. Based upon this assessment, I would say the restriction
lies in your return line somewhere between the center of the chassis
and the fuel tank. But before you even touch the car, make sure you
know for a fact where the leak was comming from. Work backwards thru
the system to find the cause, and always twist your theories to suit
the facts, but not the other way around.
Good luck!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hello guys,
>
> as a summary, my symptoms are:
> 1. hard starting when cold
> 2. somewhat hard starting when warm, but MUCH easier
> 3. engine dies sometimes even after being warm
> 4. RPM's flow from 1000 to 500 when idling. as it approaches 500
every time,
> the engine nearly quits but it surges back up like it should.
> 5. extremely high fuel pressure - over 100 psi, probably closer to
130 or
> greater.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 00:14:24 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
Andy,
It's definitely not the accumulator. When the accumulator goes bad, you
have problems starting the engine only when it is hot. Your symptoms are
the opposite of this condition.
Your fuel pressures should not be anywhere near 100psi ever. There is a
chance, however slight, that your fuel leak was related to this high
pressure. Maybe you have a clog in the system, but not likely. I think the
problem is that you have a bad control pressure regulator.
I suggest first checking to see if a clog might be your problem; although, a
more experienced mechanic might suggest a better approach. To do this,
disconnect the fuel return line from the control pressure regulator. Blow
some compressed air into this line and listen for bubbles in your fuel tank.
It should sound like blowing air into a straw in a glass of water. But
first remove the fuel tank cap to stop pressure from building up in the
tank. Air should move easily through this line. I suggest using clean dry
compressed air from a shop air supply. Use an air nozzle that has a rubber
tip to help seal around the hose opening to force air into it. Adjust the
shop air regulator to a low psi setting so you don't go blowing megga gas
bubbles. 10 to 20 psi should be plenty. If this line isn't clogged and you
are measuring over 3.8 Bar fuel pressure between the fuel distributor and
control pressure regulator, then I am quite sure that you have a bad control
pressure regulator.
Some caveats:
Make sure your fuel pressure gauge is accurate. Hook it to a shop air
compressor and compare it with a gauge that is known to be accurate. A tire
pressure gauge will let you know that you are at least in the ball park.
Do not re-use the copper seal rings. Those are not meant to be re-used.
They are cheap, and the DeLorean vendors sell them. Buy extras to keep on
hand. Once you master this, you may be testing pressures on other people's
DeLoreans.
Tighten the fuel lines back with a torque wrench according to the specs in
the service manual.
Keep a fire extinguisher (or two) handy, and ALWAYS keep a big one in the
car at all times. When I say big, I mean at least 3kg of white stuff.
Wear safety goggles.
On a side note, be sure that the shop that fixed your fuel leak did it
properly. If they replaced a hose, then chances are they replaced it with
the wrong kind of hose. Typical fuel line is not made to run at these high
pressures. If a line breaks and catches fire, then it works like a blow
torch.
Let us know how it turns out.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:13:23 -0800
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Compatible Fascia Paint Code?
Thanks Dave, I had searched through the archives and found references to
your site
but the address in the older messages didn't work. I guess you must
have moved it since then.
Fernando
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Sontos
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: 3/22/01 6:33:50 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Compatible Fascia Paint
Code?
Fernando,
There is a complete "how to" at
http://personal.picusnet.com/dsontos/painting.html
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Compatible Fascia Paint Code?
Hi List,
I need to paint the Fascia's on my D. Does someone who has
repainted
them recently, have a paint code that closest matches the
original
color?
Thanks for your help,
Fernando Dillard
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- Fernando Dillard
--- fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:25:55 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re. Fuel Sender
Sorry to bring this thread up again, I am the James RG that sent the
fuel sender pics, I just have two pics of the fuel sender stripped
down which will help people realise what goes on, if anyone wants a
copy of the pics please e-mail me privatly they might be of use.
jamesrg(at)btinternet.com
thanks
James RG
England
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:16:55 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Thermo Time Switch
Rob, Yes it does matter how it's pluged in. The connector is
polorized and should only go in one way as to match the hot wire to
the heating elements.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
>
> I've been breaking my head on the schematics of the thermo time
switch. I've
> been reading the workshop manuals..
>
> My question is this: is the connector (from the wiring harnass to
the actual
> tt-switch) symmetric or does it matter which way it is connected?
>
> I'm in doubt whether it is connected correctly.
>
> Yours,
>
> Rob.
> VIN3695
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:42:59 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: what would a bad fuel accumulator do?
Andy, In short: The accumulator keeps fuel pressure on the system
after the engine has been shut off to make it easier to start when
turned back on. Cold or Hot when restarting. Cold start
valve /thermal time switch aids in starting cold. Lambda unit along
with 02 sensor adjust the air/fuel mixture to help smooth out the
engine idle after a couple of minutes. The large swing could be the
02 sensor trying thru the Lambda to correct the mixture. Air vaccum
would affect the up and down if not correctly hood up or leaking.A
lot of these things work together to ensure a good start and economy
in running. The surging could also be the slow correcting of the Idle
speed motor /speed ECU unit. Like cleaning off your desk. Track down
the problem one at a time and fix it. Or like some do just get a leaf
blower.
John hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hello guys,
>
> as a summary, my symptoms are:
> 1. hard starting when cold
> 2. somewhat hard starting when warm, but MUCH easier
> 3. engine dies sometimes even after being warm
> 4. RPM's flow from 1000 to 500 when idling. as it approaches 500
every time,
> the engine nearly quits but it surges back up like it should.
> 5. extremely high fuel pressure - over 100 psi, probably closer to
130 or
> greater.
> 6. recently had a fuel line leak near the accumulator. i do not
know if it
> was a hose that connects to it or where exactly it was. i had the
car towed
> and 'they fixed it'. i had problems starting the day the leak
happened. it
> could have happened before or after i had trouble.
>
> do these symptoms or problems have a good relation to what happens
when you
> have a failed fuel accumulator? i am still trying to figure all of
this out.
>
> thanks as always,
> Andy
>
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:16:16 +0100
From: "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Thermo Time Switch
Thank you Robert, it starts to make sense now, but I'm still not quite sure.
I'm having problems with cold starting. Warm starts are perfect. At the
first crank, the engine starts very eager, but after 2 or three seconds, the
engine starts stalling en after 15 seconds or so, it stops. This is repeated
for 3 cranks and then the car idles fine. After a minute or 4 the engine
temperature rises and the car starts to run normally.
Keeping this I figure that the cold start valve works fine but that the
thermo time switch might be the culprit. Looking at the schematics I thought
that the cold start valve is correctly operating while cranking, but not
during the first minutes (while the engine is still cold).
I suspect that the fuel accumulator and cold start value are working
correctly because the engine starts very eagerly while cranking. I remember
inspecting the connection to the thermo time switch when I bought the car
and putting it back the same way as I got it out. (I checked this because my
car has always had this problem).
----- Original Message -----
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 01:36:58 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Thermo Time Switch
YES! It does mater which way the wires are plugged into the thermo
time switch. When looking at the schematic of the tt switch and the
cold start valve, you'll see that both are connected together with 2
wires, and that the tt switch also has a ground connection. Plus the
cold start circuit is tied into the starter, so this circuit will
only be active durring engine cranking.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:03:53 -0000
From: "Mike Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hissing sound, radio removal, center console removal
Walt - It's not bad, actually. Remove the center vents,
remove the knobs, rear support attachment and
wiring harness for the radio, slide the radio back
into the dash and remove it through the space where the
vents were.
Mike Griese
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Jim,
> So you have 'kind of' gotten the radio out WITHOUT removing the
console?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:20:52 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: anyone have new wheels?
Hello,
I'm looking to get some new Delorean wheels. If anyone has a set and
are interested in a trade + cash please let me know. Thanks!
Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:55:48 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Was Thermo Time Switch; Now Hard Cold Start
With the symptoms you descibe the most likely components to check are
1) Control Pressure Regulater
2) Thermo time switch
3) Cold start valve
4) some kind of wiring problem
It is most likely the control pressure regulater. To verify either
check fuel pressures with a gauge set-up or replace with a known good
one. When cold the engine is mostly running on the cold start valve.
Your troubles seem to disappear at about the time the cold start valve
should be shutting off so it is logical that the cold start system is
not functioning correctly and the regulater is usually the cause.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Rob van der Veer" <rob.van.der.veer@xxxx> wrote:
> Thank you Robert, it starts to make sense now, but I'm still not
quite sure.
>
> I'm having problems with cold starting. Warm starts are perfect. At
the
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 01:36:58 -0000
> From: DMCVegas@xxxx
> Subject: Re: Thermo Time Switch
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:04:16 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Few corrections on the return line post I made!
If the Moderators can catch it onetime, hopefully they can delete the
first paragraph of my first post. Thanks again and sorry for this.
I made a mistake! When you do remove the soft black line from the
Accum some fuel WILL come out since it is attached to the return line
going to the tank via a T connector! Sorry about that! So the test I
said about removing the soft fuel line and checking if any fuel comes
out of it is wrong! Do not remove the Line and start the car because
fuel will dump out of the black soft line due to that it is connected
to the return line!!! I'm sorry for this HUGE mistake. What I
described in checking for a blockage (disconnecting the lines and
using the shop air) is still a good way to check for a blockage. Just
try not to disconnect the return hose that goes from the boot to the
steel line from the steel line. They are usually a pain to get off
and if you do it wrong, you could wind up twisting the steel line
that runs in-between the chassis and body.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:32:59 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Thermo Time Switch
This switch can fail. Upon failure it would cause 95% of hard cold start
symptoms.
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
VIN 3713
DOA 4743
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:36:12 -0600
From: "Skipper Landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stripping paint
no, my door jams were not painted, but i did take the inner door appart
to re-align the door strikes and it appeared to be not a major issue to
"strip" the door of all the parafenillia in order to strip the paint. I just
moved and have just now,3/23/01, got my computer up and running, i do have
many photos of the process i can send you if you like. also feel free to
call me at home at 225-752-1754 in the afternoons and on the weekends if you
wish. i am modifying mine to autocross, so if i can find a web host that
will not cost much, i want to document all my mods on the web. wish me
luck!!
skipper landry
vin#10246
----- Original Message -----
From: <mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Stripping paint
> Sir,
> Were your door jambs/inside door edges painted? My D is also painted and
I can see that the door edges are the problem areas. I bought my car off of
the original owner an he had the car painted at the dealership before taking
delivery. My son, who is learning auto body repair, says that the panels
and all of the exterior parts were removed to paint the car. was your car
the same way?
>
> Jim vin 4149 "ELMO" (cause it's RED)
> __________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com/
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:54:25 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re. Fuel Sender
James RG,
Why not post your pictures in the archives. This kind of information may be
useful to some people at a later date.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 4:26 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re. Fuel Sender
Sorry to bring this thread up again, I am the James RG that sent the
fuel sender pics, I just have two pics of the fuel sender stripped
down which will help people realise what goes on, if anyone wants a
copy of the pics please e-mail me privatly they might be of use.
jamesrg(at)btinternet.com
thanks
James RG
England
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:06:06 -0600
From: "Skipper Landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket radio wiring
i will go in behind my alpine on sat 3/24/01 and let you know what i did...
----- Original Message -----
From: <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 6:11 PM
Subject: [DML] Aftermarket radio wiring
> I am planning to put a cd player in my D, and I was wondering if any
> modifications to the radio wiring harness need to be done.
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:13:04 -0600
From: "Skipper Landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: CALLING ALL BATON ROUGE, LA. DMC OWNERS!!!
CALLING ANY DMC OWNERS IN OR AROUND BATON ROUGE, LA. PLEASE CONTACT ME,
I AM TRYING TO GET A SUPPORT GROUP SET UP!!!!
SKIPPER LANDRY
VIN#10246
225-752-1754
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:55:51 -0800 (PST)
From: thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car Alarm (all options, easy install) for D!
Hi List,
A while back, I mentioned that I have a friend who
works for this alarm manufacturer and found one model
that works wonderful for the D. Anyway, he (my
friend) is thinking of working for another company, so
I'd like to offer to anyone who's interested in this
great alarm, let me know (before he's gone). I can
get them at cost ($99.95 + $5.00 S&H in the US). This
is a very good alarm; it came fully equipped in one
compact unit (not several units) + two four-button
remote controls. It has built in shock sensor,
parking lights, anti-carjack,... evrything and many
more options... You can even hookup a automatic doors
popper. The most important thing is IT'S REAL EASY TO
INSTALL ON THE D! I installed it on my D for about a
year now and it's been GREAT!!!
If anyone is interested, let me know by e-mail ASAP.
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Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 20:35:15 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Few corrections on the return line post I made!
Hmmmm....looks like the moderators deleted the entire post instead of
the first paragraph of it. Anyway what I was trying to describe was
to disconnect the return line from the fuel pump boot and disconnect
the other end of the return line from the fuel distributor. Take a
hose "pincher" and pinch the the small black rubber hose that is
clamped onto the back of the accumulator or remove it and block it
with something. After doing all this you can then blow some
compressed air into the line and see if there is any restrictions in
the line, there are no other parts on this line. If it's something
that plugged the line up, the air could probably dislodge it or you
can see if it's a fuel line that collapsed. If there is nothing
blocking the fuel return line, then check to see if the steel hose
going into the fuel pump boot dosen't have anything blocking it. You
might also want to make sure there is nothing clogging the return
path in the fuel distributor. The distributor has tiny screens in it
that can easily be blocked. For more info on doing this drop Marty
Maier a line, he's rebuilt a few distrubitrs before and can probably
walk you through checking yours out.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, srubano@xxxx wrote:
> If the Moderators can catch it onetime, hopefully they can delete
the
> first paragraph of my first post. Thanks again and sorry for this.
>
> I made a mistake! When you do remove the soft black line from the
> Accum some fuel WILL come out since it is attached to the return
line
> going to the tank via a T connector! Sorry about that! So the test
I
> said about removing the soft fuel line and checking if any fuel
comes
> out of it is wrong! Do not remove the Line and start the car
because
> fuel will dump out of the black soft line due to that it is
connected
> to the return line!!! I'm sorry for this HUGE mistake. What I
> described in checking for a blockage (disconnecting the lines and
> using the shop air) is still a good way to check for a blockage.
Just
> try not to disconnect the return hose that goes from the boot to
the
> steel line from the steel line. They are usually a pain to get off
> and if you do it wrong, you could wind up twisting the steel line
> that runs in-between the chassis and body.
>
>
> Steve
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:56:26 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Climate Control Temp Switch
My temperature switch for the ac/heater turns exceptionally hard
Is it supposed to be like this? If not what do I do, squirt some
silicone lubricant in there?
John Yeoman
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