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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Quick Note On Cooling Fans
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: AC and fanzilla question
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. CV Joints
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Hello list!
From: "Dingo" <dingo@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Hello list!
From: raddad@xxxxxxx
6. Re: AC and fanzilla question STANDARDIZATION
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. Why soldering paste
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. "We have Connection....sorta"
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
9. About Arnie Brandon's and Dick Ryan's comment(s)
From: myhrek@xxxxxxx
10. Re: CV Joints
From: "Dave A Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. adding Hp
From: petleech@xxxxxxx
12. Re: CV Joints
From: DLoff80@xxxxxxx
13. No Heat?
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: No Heat?
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
15. Re: No Heat?
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Tailight cover
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. Flying DeLorean
From: "Steven Lawrence" <vipertv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Really Nice Delorean For Sale
From: "Hotmail" <sheilaridez@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: No Heat?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
20. Zilla Reliability
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 01:55:36 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Quick Note On Cooling Fans
Jim,
Although the cooling system will get by with one cooling fan the AC
condenser requires both fans to operate efficiently. Additionally, one fan
operation means there is no back-up if the other fan fails.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim <ultra@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 12:32 AM
Subject: [DML] Quick Note On Cooling Fans
> I would like to add a quick note of real life DeLorean experience
> running on one cooling fan. Since I bought my car in August 2000, my
> drivers side cooling fan has been 100% inoperable. Several times,
> while sitting in greusome Minneapolis traffic (without AC on), I
> constantly monitored my temp gauge. Everything monitored normally.
> The temp gauge was exactly between 220 and 160 when the one fan kicked
> in on its own, and while I do admit it didn't cool down the engine
> real fast, it DEFINATELY kept it from heating any hotter. I dont want
> to endorse or bash any one product, since they all serve their
> usefull purpose, but I am the kind of guy who likes making his own fix
> for most things. I reworked my OEM Lock Module, and I am building my
> own fan relay/monitoring system. Of course, I am going to investigate
> why my one fan isn't working, and get it fixed. But that will wait
> untill April, when everything else gets done to it.
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC6960
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 02:33:16 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: AC and fanzilla question
John,
Here are some corrections concerning your statements.
John said:
"All the relay's in the De Lorean are resistive load and are prone to fail".
DMC Joe:
The DeLorean relay's are not prone to fail. The early version RPM relay and
factory installed door lock relays are the only relays with a higher than
average failure rate.
John:
"Moisture and underrated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail".
DMC Joe:
DeLorean fuel pump failures are the result of dirt, rust, or contaminated
fuel; not electric's.
John:
"The fuel pumb burning up the, I think #7 fuse, I have that fixed also."
DMC Joe:
The fuse #7 failures are strictly related to an under rated fuse holder,
this common problem is easily corrected with the installation of a heavy
duty in-line fuse holder, not a circuit modification.
John:
"But it seems that a lot of De Lorean owners have only seen one way to
approach problems with the cars and have been kept in the dark. I think I
have opened a lot of eyes ..."
DMC Joe:
Not so; the DML offers a variety of solutions for most problems, just check
the archives.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 12:06 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: AC and fanzilla question
> Steve, I have told everyone on the group that I'm not an engineer but
> a good parts man. I worked with engineers for years and was always
> told to look for a simple solution for the product. I have listened
> to people on this group complain about the cost of Zilla products and
> I finally did something about it. Yes: As an engineer you then know
> the difference in an inductive load relay and a resistive one. All
> the relay's in the De Lorean are resistive load and are prone to
> fail. I don't mind telling folks that I'm using a inductive load
> relay made especially for fan applications, it's not just heavy duty.
> The fan inrush current is around 60Amps and that is what this relay
> is made for. As far as open frame and being a hazzard. If that was
> the case then the humidity your talking about will not be stopped by
> a snap on plastic or metal case. That why I didn't cover it. I won't
> air flow to keep it dry as possible. Enclosed relays will hold the
> moisture longer and will corrode faster. Pull out your RPM relay and
> look at the contacts. Clean them while you have it out. Moisture and
> underated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail.
As far as exposed
> contacts. Look at the circuit breakers for the door lock. Terminals
> facing straight up for someone to short out along with the other fan
> circuit breakers.
> I know that Bob has put lots of time in engineering the Zilla
> products and I know they are good because they are sold a lot and
> have a proven track record and he should be paid back for that
> engineering if you can afford it. But just because he is using a
> logic approach doesn't make the electro mechanical approach an
> inferior product. As simple as my product is and the way it's wired,
> I have no more low voltage problems and drop outs. We have some
> differences + and -. but it works and it's guaranteed.
> As you know that the water in the radiator goes from one side to the
> other before going out. In a lot of colder climates one can get by
> with less air flow. That's why people put cardboard in front of the
> radiator to slow down air flow to heat the car up or just use one
> fan. In Texas, we need all the air flow we can get in hot climate,
> but in 40 and 50 degree weather, one fans works great to let the
> water heat up faster. The coolant switch turns the fan on and only
> one fan to draw current instead of two when two is not needed. I
> drive mine like this in colder weather. Yes: it may go against the
> grain of a lot of people, but it works.
> I don't mind constructive criticism, and sometimes I screw up just
> like others that try to help. But it seems that a lot of De Lorean
> owners have only seen one way to approach problems with the cars and
> have been kept in the dark. I think I have opened a lot of eyes to
> just as good but less expensive ways.
> Ask me about the current relief I have given the main relay that also
> controls the Lambda unit. I have that low voltage problem solved.
> The fuel pumb burning up the, I think #7 fuse, I have that fixed
> also. All with out logic and very inexpensive.
> If I'm out of line I know the group will put me back on track.
> I like my De Lorean's and will continue to address problems the only
> way I know how. Simple. Thanks for your opinion's, I think yours and
> others are always welcome. I think folks learn from these exchanges
> and look forward to them. I also know when to check it to the logic
> engineers.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>
>
> **** Moderator sniped a bunch of copied stuff... *****
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 15:13:24 -0000
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: CV Joints
My car has two torn CV boots, they haven't been driven on that
much. The foreign shop down the road quoted me $470 including labor
to take care of doing the joints. I was wondering if that is a fair
price, or if any of you have done this before and have an estimate of
how much it will cost.
Jay
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 10:40:41 -0500
From: "Dingo" <dingo@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hello list!
Hello Les,
My 82 battery does not have posts, it has screw in terminals. I believe
they are original but I'm not sure. That is all I know on the subject. :)
Rich
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 08:40:04 -0700
From: raddad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hello list!
Les
Don't the know the answer to your question. I do know, however, that the
maintenance free batteries from NAPA, EXCIDE, INTERSTATE and OPTIMA all fit
in the space very nicely and have both top and side posts on them. The
side posts allow for connection with the existing battery wires without any
tugging or tweaking.
If you are insistent upon DELCO, ask the dealer. If he/she doesn't know,
go with one of the above.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:30:34 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: AC and fanzilla question STANDARDIZATION
IMHO it is best to standardize on a fix. This way it is easy to
troubleshoot and everyone knows how it is supposed to work ( the fan
light comes to mind). With all due respect to John where will he be in
a few years if his device doesn't work? I like to think Mr. Zilla and
Rob Grady will still be around! If you are playing with your car and
money is as big an issue as John thinks then stay with the jumper
wires, but if you are like most then although the Zillas are pricey I
believe they are worth the money if for no other reason then their
proven reliability and service. Don't forget some of the money goes
toward continuing developement of future Zillas. (Where is
Transzilla!) If we don't continue buying Zillas there won't be anymore
and there would be no incentive for further product developement. We
Delorean owners are lucky to have someone like Mr.Zilla to help us
keep these cars going, some car Marques could use his skills yet they
have no one like him.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, turbodmc@xxxx wrote:
> Ok, I decided to put my 2 cents in. regarding the Fanzilla and the
> price.
> I am en electrical engineer BTW.
>
> When I first got my Delorean and heard about why there was a need
for
> the Fanzilla and what it did I went to the shop manual and looked at
> the schematic diagram, in less then 10 minutes I had about four
> different designs drawn up and started bread boarding a few from
> parts I already had. I asked Rob Grady if I could look at the inside
> of the fanzilla because with my background I was capable of making
> something like this myself from parts I already had and for me it
> seemed like a lot of money for something I could build myself. After
> looking over how the fanzilla is manufactured and designed I
realized
> that even though I was capable of building a device that would
> accomplish the same type of function, it really didn't pay for me to
> make one because it would not be of the same quality as a
> professionally manufactured product.
>
> I think that everyone would agree that the fanzilla is the best
> product on the market and that's why it is more expensive. It is a
> you get what you pay for item.
>
> In fairness to John I think he is trying to offer a lower cost
> solution and we shouldn't fault him for that.
> I think that one problem is that with such a small market in the
> first place it will always be difficult to introduce a new product
to
> the Delorean only market.
>
> I don't think we should discourage anyone from trying to make new or
> improved Delorean products, there are a lot of smart and talented
> Delorean owners out there and we should encourage all of them to use
> there talent and knowledge.
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree the FanZilla is quite costly, but it DOES address more that
> one problem;by staggering the Fans with a delay the "PowerKick" on
> the engine dissappears,the Fix probably (I can't be soure due to
lack
> of experience with the fix) doesn't and you'd still feel your car
> hold back as both Fans and the A/C compressor
> kick in all together...
>
> > Greetings from The Netherlands,
> >
> > JAN van de Wouw
> >
> > Happy Zilla owner/user,
> > but ALLWAYS open to suggestions...
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 11:24:27 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Why soldering paste
Thank you for not jumping on me when I first mentioned it. I'll explain
very briefly: it makes a better joint much quicker. Why do you want a
quicker joint? So that you don't burn the circuit board or other item
you're working on... get on, do it, get off.. I've done a ton of
circuit board work and figure as soon as I mention paste I'm going to
get jumped on over contamination or some such. Whatever, I'll never
tell you anything I'm not sure of and have not had great success with
over a prolonged period of time.
How I got onto it? First, you have to remember that everyone has
something to impart, i.e., you can learn from the dumbest, often
something of such value you that it can impact the rest of your life.
In the early days of TV repair, fuses (the little cartridge type, not
the current ones as used in the car) snapped into sockets, but pretty
soon they changed to wire-in fuses, partly because they didn't want set
owners to get involved and partly because it was cheaper to use wire
rather than a socket. Ok, here was the problem, when you went out on a
service call and the set needed a fuse but was wired in and you had all
sizes but without the wires you had to make a return trip...not cool,
right! Trying to solder a wire to a fuse can make you look very inept,
the metal inside the fuse cap, melts at about the same temp as the
solder and the end cap pops off. I was one of the early hot-shot TV
repairmen who thought he knew just about everything, but not the fuse
bit. Along comes the guy who knows very little but knows this one bit I
need, how to solder a wire onto a fuse without popping the end. Use
paste! That worked great, solved the problem and that bit of wisdom has
served me well to this date, hope it helps you.
I ended up putting a bit of solder on all of the tail light bulb bases
yesterday, just the shells, no centers as yet. First one I wrote about,
John told me I should have done them all, he was right. I had a friend
step on the brake pedal and stop light was out on that side too. After
I finished that side, turned out I had 2 stop lights so did the other
side. That side had one working and ended up with 2 also. Went from 1
to 4 in one day. I know there's a new board that can relieve you of
doing this but I've always been a fixer and I like doing it. I also
gave the base of each bulb a shot of WD-40 before installing it back in
the socket, ditto the connector.
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:22:27 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: "We have Connection....sorta"
Hey List,
Today is the day that I have been waiting 9 months for. I was finally
able to lower the body onto the frame with the help of my brother, father,
couple of my brothers friends, and fellow De Lorean owner Josh from
Connecticut. I think I might have to raise the body up a little bit again in
order to get the front mounting holes to line up. My brother works at a
tranny shop, so I am sure I might be able to use his hydraulic lift there and
lift the body up that way. For some reason there are huge spaces between all
4 tires and the fenders and quarter panels, everyone is telling me that it
should settle down, but I am not sure. Thats all for now. I will be sure to
send a post to the DML if I progress any more.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:27:38 EST
From: myhrek@xxxxxxx
Subject: About Arnie Brandon's and Dick Ryan's comment(s)
Said comment(s) are only descriptive of the tip of the iceberg. To preserve
bliss, one must preserve ignorance of all the facts pertaining to the
allegations hereto ignored with the most noble of motives, asssured by the
admonition: Let's move on!
Kjell Myhre, Tel: 818 768-1364; Fax: 818 768-6044; E-mail: <MyhreK@xxxxxxx>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 23:35:14 -0000
From: "Dave A Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CV Joints
Sounds a little high, I'd think an accomplished mechanic would take 3
hours at + $60-80 for the parts (boots and lube). If you want to see
what's involved take a look at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cvjoint.htm
Not difficult, just messy. Will probably take most of the day. Latex
gloves are a good idea. Kerosene is a good cleaning solvent for this.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, badgeman46@xxxx wrote:
> My car has two torn CV boots, they haven't been driven on that
> much. The foreign shop down the road quoted me $470 including labor
> to take care of doing the joints.
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:39:19 EST
From: petleech@xxxxxxx
Subject: adding Hp
I am currently looking for a "cheap" way to add power. The most obvious route
to me would be to add turbos or a supercharger, but I have several questions
concerning these. Firstly, the cheapest way (maybe not in the end, but to
start with) would be pulling a supercharger off of some wrecked buick but
this brings up many questions. Can I just make the fittings to force air in
the induction manifold? Will it just bolt on with minor mods, like an extra
alternator? THen comes the turbo, with all this talk about the DMC engine
upgrades, is anyone willing to part with their used Turbo, or turboed engine?
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:06:18 EST
From: DLoff80@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: CV Joints
I agree. I have an 89 toyota 4x4, and my cv is gone and I got a quote for
only 250 at a dealership, mind you. The part was only 100, so the labor wasnt
bad either, seeing it was part of a 4x4 system.
Dave Loffler
Johnston, RI
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:15:06 -0500
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
Subject: No Heat?
Well, I never drove the car in the cold before so I never tested the
heat. So today I take the car out and all I get out of the defroster or
heater is cold air. I drove the car some 20 miles but it did not get
any heat at all. The blower worked well but thats it.
Any recommendations where to start looking? This one is new to me.
Jack
5823
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:42:44 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: No Heat?
Jack,
Maybe the vacuum line that connects to the water valve that circulates
hot water into the heater core isn't connected. It could have easily been
disconnected by accident. To see if that is the case....when looking
directly at the engine compartment, you will see a very small vacuum line
coming from the drivers side of the firewall leading to the middle of the
back of the engine. That is the vacuum line that goes from the mode switch
to the water valve telling it to open or shut depending on the position the
mode switch is in. Hope that helps.
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:45:52 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Heat?
Since you did get air moving out of the defrost position, then it might not
be the mode switch, like it was for me.
What I did for heat until I got my new mode switch was disconnect the vacuum
line to the hot water valve. This guy sits at the front of the engine on the
rightish side. When the mode switch is on Max AC the switch applies vacuum
to this unit and he closes the valve and does not allow hot air to go to the
heater unit in the dash.
So check that line for vacuum.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 9:15 PM
Subject: [DML] No Heat?
> Well, I never drove the car in the cold before so I never tested the
> heat. So today I take the car out and all I get out of the defroster or
> heater is cold air. I drove the car some 20 miles but it did not get
> any heat at all. The blower worked well but thats it.
>
> Any recommendations where to start looking? This one is new to me.
>
> Jack
>
> 5823
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 23:04:34 -0500
From: "W.D.SEARLS, JR." <Buckeye99@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tailight cover
I came across this little problem last week. I was making a left hand turn
and noticed the turn signal cliked/blinked very fast(a bulb burnt out or a
short). Well I checked my front and rear turn signal bulbs and noticed the
rear one is out.When I got home, I went and got my screwdriver to remove the
screws holding the taillight cover in place. Here is the problem, 3 of the
screws are both rusted and stripped. I can't get the cover off!!!! I don't
know when this happened since I am the 3rd owner but I could use some help.
Joel
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:33:46 -0600
From: "Steven Lawrence" <vipertv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Flying DeLorean
Hello all,
While surfing the web, I came across a website which built a Flying
BTTF DeLorean. The odd thing is that they used molded DeLorean body panels
instead of wasting a real D. Read their story at:
http://www.codeoneauto.com/frames/bttf_flyingdelorean1.html
Steven Lawrence
vipertv@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN# - not yet.....
My DeLorean Website
http://go.fast.to/delorean/
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:43:27 -0600
From: "Hotmail" <sheilaridez@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Really Nice Delorean For Sale
Hi, I'm a past Delorean owner (just sold mine) and have a good friend who is also selling his Delorean. He has put over $20,000 in this car and wins every show that it is entered in. It is in perfect shape (I mean perfect), from the body to the engine to the interior. The interior has been completely redone professionally in light forrest green leather, which looks stunning. He has had the car completey taken apart and rebuilt from the frame up. It has approximately 38,500 miles on it, vin 04395. It has a cd player, working air (with new compressor and drive belt), new clutch system, custom dash mounted solar panel, brand new original Delorean Carpeting, Perfectly restored rims, and tons more. The owner's name is
Steve Flynn (2nd owner)
StvFlynn@xxxxxxx
309-451-4563
and is located in Normal, IL
I can't remember how much exactly he is asking for it, but it was under $18,000 I believe.
This is a very good value, and I hate to see him sell this car. I'm posting it here in the hopes that a Delorean lover will get it and appreciate all that he has done to this car over the years.
Mike Schaefer
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 04:58:26 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: No Heat?
If that were the case, then he would always have heat since when
there is vacum present at the valve it keeps it shut. No vacum opens
that valve.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, njp548@xxxx wrote:
> Jack,
>
> Maybe the vacuum line that connects to the water valve that
circulates
> hot water into the heater core isn't connected. It could have
easily been
> disconnected by accident. To see if that is the case....when
looking
> directly at the engine compartment, you will see a very small
vacuum line
> coming from the drivers side of the firewall leading to the middle
of the
> back of the engine. That is the vacuum line that goes from the
mode switch
> to the water valve telling it to open or shut depending on the
position the
> mode switch is in. Hope that helps.
>
> Later,
> Nick
> 1852
> <A
HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 00:00:53 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Zilla Reliability
I have been very satisfied with the operation and performance of all of
the Zilla products. The Zilla's were installed in my car about 3 years ago.
I am happy to report no problems (ZERO) with the DeLorean, or any of the
related components such as, door locks, fuel gauge, and the A/C fans that
integrate the Zilla products. The Zilla products have been very reliable and
worth every bit of the retail price.
In addition, during a DeLorean car show in Richmond, I witnessed another
list member DeLorean "fan fail jumper wire with inline fuses" severely melt,
burn and ALMOST catch on fire.
The Fanzilla solved the problem that the factory dropped the ball on.
The temporary "fix" that the factory introduced & suggested in place of the
blue Fan Fail relay was not how the car was supposed to be produced. Do you
really think that an expensive car like the DMC was manufactured and sold to
the public with three wires fused together inside of a relay compartment to
make the fans operate? (Of course Not!) The factory didn't care, or didn't
have the money to solve many of the electrical bugs that Rob Grady & Bob
Zilla have been able to solve.
Mike
VIN 3713
Sorry for my absence, I was out of the country.
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