Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: headliner cleaner?
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Fuel leak?
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
3. Adjusting the T-panel
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Auto Trans GC Cap size
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Binnacle recovering
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Fuel leak! BE CAREFUL!
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: Binnacle recovering
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Fuel leak?
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
9. Delorean Model Seriously now!
From: At88 <melvnhel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Fuel leak?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Fuel leak?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
12. Re: Binnacle recovering
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: DMC12 Handling on the limit
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: RE:Engine Problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: de-icer kit - how to?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Binnacle recovering
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Adjusting the T-panel
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: DMC12 Handling on the limit
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Adjusting the T-panel
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
20. Re: Adjusting the T-panel
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Delorean Model Seriously now!
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
22. Mildew and Leather
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. BTTF.com Disturbing news
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Adjusting the T-panel
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. Corgi Classics releasing die-cast DeLorean in April
From: stephen@xxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:07:22 EST
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: headliner cleaner?
Since I recently took out my seats to get some new seat covers installed, I
used the opportunity to clean the carpets and while I was at it the
headliners. "Spot Shot" found @ Home Depot or Lowes or your store of choice
did the job for me. It is truly amazing stuff. Good luck with whatever you
choose.
Regards,
Darren Decker
VIN 5000
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:36:07 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel leak?
In a message dated 1/30/01 8:03:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< How hard is it to replace the metal line? Do you have to lift the
fiberglass off of the frame for that? >>
Walt,
If you need to replace the metal line, plan on doing the same exact thing
Steve Rubano and I are doing...separate the frame and the body. Don't think
of it as a hassle, but as a "learning experience" :). You'll be able to
know your car more and be able to take it apart again at the drop of a hat.
Its fun!
Later,
Nick
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:03:17 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Adjusting the T-panel
My T-panel isn't (and hasn't been for the four months I've owned the car) perfectly centered.
The gap on the driver's door (that's US driver's side...) is wider than passenger. And, I think the t-panel rubs the passenger door and keeps that one from going all the way up.
I'm guessing that the t-panel is only fastened at the rear, under the sunshade.
It looks like I have to take the sunshade off to adjust the t-panel. Is it simply remove the sunshade, loosen the fasteners, and gently slide it over. Is that correct?
-Kevin
#4687
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:26:29 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Auto Trans GC Cap size
Hi Folks.
I am trying to redo the circuit board on the Auto Trans GC -- one major
problem, when I cleaned the board with lacquer thinner it also cleaned off
the caps completely. I have no idea what size they were to begin with now.
Any help greatly appreciated.
I am referring to the electrolytic capacitors on circuit board.
Matthew L. Walker
VIN #1219
Pix at www.dragon-reach.org/delorean.htm
I just took a bunch today of the car from all sides and inside as well.
( needed them for insurance )
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 02:44:35
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Binnacle recovering
I remember my dad would use black roofing caucking to fill the cracks in the
saab's black dash, it looked pretty good. Alot better than tanish cracks in
a blask dashboard though. I guess this wouldn't real work for a delorean,
unless you could use white caucking, and then match the color with nair
polish or something. I guess it should work, but the smell would be realy
bad. But then you'll do anything to fix a dash board, short of droping
almost 1,000$ and buying a new one. :)
John
__ __
\____/
/____\
0 0
DeLorean
[Quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 03:02:43 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel leak! BE CAREFUL!
You should also check the connections at the fuel fill, make sure
that
the hoses are all the way on, the clamps are tight, and the rubber is
not cracked or dryrotted. If you do not have the correct fittings on
the accumulater that is a sign that someone at some time kinked the
lines or damaged the fittings to the accumulater. A previous post had
a similar problem and said Rob Grady told him to remove the body to
replace the fuel lines. He was asking the list if there was any other
way out. I do not recall any answers to help him so I assume that the
only way to properly repair the lines is to lift the body and replace
them. Two of the lines carry high pressure gas, the third is only a
return just incase the diaghram in the accumulater ruptures. There
really is no good way to repair with hose clamps and there is no room
to cut and flare a splice. Before I would go chasing a leak I would
make sure all of the connections and hardware is correct. The most
obvious sources of leaks would be any area of the fuel system that is
not origional ie: components that were changed like the fuel filter,
tankzilla, (I can't imagine the problem you claim to be having trying
to get a good seal) fuel pump and boot, and fuel acumulater. It is
common to have a fuel smell after refueling especially if you
"top-off" but it should not persist. If you smell fuel continuosly I
recommend that you do not drive until you determine the source and
repair it. I have seen what happens to a car with a high pressure
fuel injection system when fuel leaks and it isn't pretty. By the
time
someone gets to you with a fire extinguisher there won't be much left.
If you get a kick out of holding the gauge to your ear when the trans
shifts make up a box with 2 lights and connect to the plug on the
firewall going to the 2 solenoids. You can watch the lights and then
feel the trans shift 1/2 second later. Check out the trans hold in D2
and D1. See if it works on your shift computer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 18:39:47 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle recovering
Oooh, I like the logo on the passenger knee pad.
Is that factory? When did that start/stop?
-Kevin
#4687 (No Passenger knee pad logo, Clock, Craig stereo/no clock, Hoodlines,
no flap, rear power antenna, grey, stick, CA dealer lowered)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> http://stainlesssteel.freeyellow.com/index.html and then click "Restore
Your
> Steering Wheel".
>
> Robert Starling
> Vin#05252
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 01:42:10 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel leak?
Did you remove the access panel to check that the hoses for the fuel
filler and the vapor recovery system are connected properly? If there
is a leak here, fumes can roll down and sometimes get sucked up thru
the drain for the intake chamber for the A/C. A bad gas cap can also
cause fumes to enter inside. Here the fumes can either drop down the
same way, or they can simply travel accross the grill at the bottom
of
the windshield to become sucked in.
I've had a problem somewhat simular with the tankzilla unit in my
car,
but I believe I've found the reason why.
Try this test: Take you car out into traffic on a hot day, and drive
it around for about an hour or two. When you get back, remove the gas
cap. Stick a key or another object into the filler neck to open the
filler door. Check to see if any pressurized gas fumes rush out. If
you can as well, check to see if an bubbles/leaks start appearing
around the fuel sending unit.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> I still smell fuel! It was fine for two weeks after I put the fuel
tank
> back together. But now the odor is enough to make me sick!
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 20:24:39 -0800
From: At88 <melvnhel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Model Seriously now!
Ok, Ok,
I have gotten tired of waiting for Lee's Model. I remember hearing that
someone else was in charge of his e-mails now, who is this by the way? I
would like to talk to this individual about getting my money back because
this is getting out of hand and I feel betrayed and ripped off by a fellow
Delorean owner. If anyone knows who this person is please let me know.
(Moderator please post or forward this to the person I am talking about if
you know who it is.)
Thanks
Felix S.
[moderator note: if someone can post an address to which we can redirect the large number of complaints about Lees's models please do so. Otherwise I will continue to reject all those messages.]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 06:31:20 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel leak?
Walt,
Check your fill hose and gas cap. Another spot could be the carbon canister
and its lines. The canister is inside the left rear pontoon. DMC mentioned
a while back that it was starting to be the time to change out the canister.
Another place to look is back at the fuel distributor. All of those copper
washers can be suspect. The gas can seep out and the heat will evaporate
it. Make sure you torque the fittings because they can be quite easily
stripped. The fuel pump boot is a big problem child. If the hose clamps
are not tight, fuel can seep up when you fill the tank. The connections at
the fuel pump can also seep. The fuel return line fitting can leak and I
have found it difficult to tighten properly. There are fittings in the
supply and return line about 12 inches from the pump. They are near the
heater hoses, check those. Again fuel seepage and heat may prevent you from
seeing the seepage. I found a leak once by fill the tank, installing the
gas cap and then pressed down on the top of the tank with my hand. The
pressure from my hand was enough to make it leak. Gaskets around the fuel
level transmitter should be installed between the flange on the gage and the
tank, there does not need to be a gasket between the nut and the
transmitter.
I realize that you probably have done most of these things, but this is what
you get when I do a brain dump early in the morning. Let us know if and
when you find the leak.
Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
[Duplicate quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 04:39:00 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel leak?
Walt,
The accum has a low pressure hose clamped on both end on the rear of
the Accum (facing towards the rear of the car). The Front of the
accum has two high pressure hoses with brass, pressed on fittings. If
what you described is that one of the high pressure lines has a clamp
on both sides AND it looks to be a low pressure line in it's place, I
say replace it! It's a little tricky to get the line out. You don't
have to separate the chassis from the body to change either of the
high pressure lines going into the front of the accum. You do however
have to separate the chassis from the body to change the steel lines
or to tighten the connectors (if they are leaking) on those steel
lines. It's not very hard to do, there are only 12 bolts that hold
the body onto the frame and most of the harnesses and lines are long
enough to lower the chassis down to get access to the lines. I would
also check around the fuel fill neck where it meets the tank to see
if it's leaking from there. Another possibility is that the vent pipe
isn't on your tank or is blocked? Another point to check is the two
high pressure lines that go from the fuel pump to the steel lines.
Check to see if any leaks are coming from where the fuel hoses are
connecting to the steel lines. You could have twisted the line loose
when you removed the pump? The connectors should not move at all
where they meet, they should be tight. If you twist the line and see
the steel connector moving in the coupling, then it has to be
retighten.
I hope that helps.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Steve,
>
> I crawled under the car just now and found that there is a low
pressure
> rubber hose on the front of the accumulator held on both ends with
hose
> clamps -- just like you said it shouldn't be. The same
configuration is on
> the rear of the accumulator as well. None of that appears to be
leaking
> though (yet). I can look up through the frame and see that the
metal hose
> under the console is kinked slightly, but not really enough to worry
> about -- just enough to show that someone didn't know what they
were doing.
> How hard is it to replace the metal line? Do you have to lift the
> fiberglass off of the frame for that?
>
> I still smell fuel! It was fine for two weeks after I put the fuel
tank
> back together. <SNIP>
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 06:37:56 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle recovering
What was the cost Bob, and what did they do?
Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Binnacle recovering
> I had my binnacle redone by Just Dashes.
> They did a real nice job and matched
> the original color with paint. They also
> provided some spare paint.
>
> bob Brandys
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 21:33:22 -0500
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DMC12 Handling on the limit
Christopher M. Hawes wrote:
>I personally love oversteer and dislike understeer. My theory is that with
weight of more than 60%ish towards the back of the car that understeer is
what you'll get and oversteer will hardly get a look in.
Can anyone comment on the DMC's handling over/understeer wise??<
Initial push with snap oversteer on trailing throttle. Gotta be
real careful when you lift. It is also difficult to get the car to
turn in. Lack of power means you can't throttle steer unless you
are on a loose surface.
Everybody should take their car to an SCCA autocross to see what
it can do. It costs about 20 bucks and nobody really cares
how well you do but they are plenty helpful if you want to learn
how to handle a car.
Mike Griese
3335 County Road 15 SW
Byron, MN 55920
(507)281-1899
Christopher M. Hawes wrote:
>I personally love oversteer and dislike understeer. My theory is that with
weight of more than 60%ish towards the back of the car that understeer is
what you'll get and oversteer will hardly get a look in.
Can anyone comment on the DMC's handling over/understeer wise??<
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 07:43:50 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: RE:Engine Problems
John,
You are correct except for the fact that the accelerator has to be floored
in order to engage the switch. Driving the car in this fashion (flooring the
pedal on a regular basis) would lower the gas mileage considerably even if
there wasn't a component problem.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
[Quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 19:07:18 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: de-icer kit - how to?
Andy,
Call Warren or Steve, I'm sure they will be more than happy to give you
instructions on how to complete the installation.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
[quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:25:33 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Binnacle recovering
The recovered the binnacle for around $200. They matched the grain
perfectly. They also provided a small jar of the matching grey paint.
It look better than new.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:54:39 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Adjusting the T-panel
Kevin,
The t-panel is attached by screws to the fiberglass body underneath the outer door seals (weatherstripping). From what I understand it also has some sort of adhesive or double
sided tape holding it down at the center and is wedged into place underneath the rear finishing screen. The rear connection can be undone by removing the finishing strip. (this is
that black strip with all the slots directly above the rear window on your car and directly below the louvers) As far as I know, there should be no reason you'd have to remove the
louvers to take off this screen.
You simply take off the three screws holding it in place and then CAREFULLY turn the strip outward from the bottom to get it around the lip on the stainless panels at the top.
I emphasize that you be careful with this, as this part can be rather fragile and is not currently available, new, from the parts suppliers.
Hope that helps you solve your problem.
Good Luck,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
[Quote snipped by trigger-happy moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:01:52 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC12 Handling on the limit
I believe that to know your car and your skills you need to push to
the limits. It should be done under contolled conditions like a
motorcross event or slalam. Just make sure that you have insurance
coverage for the event. If you have collecter car insurance it may
not
cover either collision or LIABILITY. It would be bad enough to ding
your own car but you could be held personally accountable for damage
to other's property or worse injuries to a passenger or spectator.
Some policies have language that doesn't cover competetive racing
events. If in doubt call your agent or broker before participating.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 12:20:53 EST
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Adjusting the T-panel
The T Panel is also held on by screws located under the seal for the rear of
each of the doors. You have to careflly pull back or remove the seal to
expose the bolts then you can remove the screws and then the panel. Be
careful with the seal on some cars it is weathered and will tear or crack.
Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360
[Same T-Panel quote snipped by same lunatic moderator . . . again]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:15:38 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Adjusting the T-panel
You are correct in assuming that centering the "T" panel will help.
You also are correct in how to do it. There is one more thing you need
to do though. You should remove the "T" panel. Under it is foam
padding that keeps it "up" in the center. It usually needs to be
replaced because it deteriorates with age allowing the panel to settle
to a lower position and rub the edge of the doors. Be extremely
careful with the panel as you could bend it and the edges are SHARP.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
[Quote snipped by out-of-control moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 17:19:50 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Model Seriously now!
I believe Ken Montgomery (member of this list) is the person you are
talking about? If you read his post #12159, he says that he is the
one that is in contact with Lee and is also helping him finish the
models. I don't have his email address since all the email addresses
on this news group are filtered out. If you go to post #12159 and
click on his partial email addresses you can send him a private
email. Unless the moderators can look it up for you and send it to
you.
Steve
[MODERATOR NOTE: Arnie Brandon tells us that Ken Montgomery's email address is: kenm&csus.edu. Substitute @ for & as appropriate.]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 09:31:11 -0500
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Mildew and Leather
Hi All,
Does anyone have a good suggestion for getting a musty, mildewy smell
out of DeLorean leather? I've tried Febreeze which muted it a bit, but
I'd like to find something to get the smell totally OUT.
-Dave Stragand
VIN# 05927
http://www.ProjectVixen.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 13:29:43 EST
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
Subject: BTTF.com Disturbing news
[MODERATOR NOTE: This is not an invitation to start a BTTF thread. I have allowed it because it appears to contain actual news.]
> Scott Mueller said:
>
> . . . I was just taking a look a
> our home site (DMCNEWS), and noticed
> that it was last update on February
> 26, 2001. Is that strange or what????
Hi Scott,
Actually it's a very up to date "magazine" site.
It's a great Delorean news resource that's often overlooked.
Sadly, many owners don't stay in-touch with the BTTF.com site.
I stopped by recently only to discover some disturbing news:
There's talk of replacing the BTTF ride in CA.
Talk often finds it's way into action.
Sometimes ya don't know what you've got till it's gone.
On another note I was surprized to see what Biff's up to (Tom Wilson ).
There's more to this site than the movies but I must say:
The BTTf movies were great, even JohnZ liked them.
They left a lasting positive spin on the car that continues to attract new
owners even today.
Since the time they were released I haven't heard a single "joke" related to
the movie & car that wasn't cute in some way.
It creates some great light hearted Flux Capacitor dialog at the gas station.
Frank Russo
Owner since 82
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:07:19 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Adjusting the T-panel
Hi list.
To remove the T-panel go to message 13585.
It explains how to better than I can because I have never worked on a
Delorean. Plus watch out for the door coming in contact with the
small radius corner of the T-panel. One club member who's car is
painted had noticed this area of contact and had a very tiny portion
of the T-panel ground down rewelded and repainted and it's good as
new.
I joined the Pacific Northwest Delorean Club to learn more about the
car before I make my first purchase. And next week the paper work
will be together and I will own VIN# 2261.
I recommend to anyone joining a club and you will get loads of
helpful info. and have fun too!
Mark
VIN# 2261 next week.
mvanyo [at] delorean.com
P.S. I also heard it's a good idea to replace the foam under the T-
panel while you're in there.
[Quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:10:59 -0000
From: stephen@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Corgi Classics releasing die-cast DeLorean in April
I know most of you won't like this because it's BTTF related, but for
those who are interested, you'll be happy to know that Corgi Classics
is releasing a brand new die-cast DeLorean time machine in 1/36th
scale, along with a Christopher Lloyd figurine. Details can be found
(along with pictures) on our website at:
http://www.bttf.com/backtalk/20010131.shtml and
http://www.bttf.com/news/01011701.shtml
Stephen Clark
BTTF.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN