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There are 13 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Torque settings
From: pjgrady@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: Courtesy Light Switch Replacement
From: "David Cox" <dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: Interior light - dimming!
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Vinyl and Leather interior
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Riverside Resort Laughlin Car Museum
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie@xxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Dealer stripe
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
7. Torque settings
From: "gwells" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Swapping Center-console / re-wiring
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Front Speakers
From: "Dale Schaub" <daleschaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Coilsprings installed...(finally)
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
11. Tire torque settings
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Front Speakers
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. RE: door light switches and totalled cars
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 11:00:47 -0800
From: pjgrady@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Torque settings
gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Happy Christmas and a successful New Year to everyone.
>
> I have one little question to which I need an answer as soon as possible
> if anyone feels able to help.
>
> I have the engine and gearbox out at the moment and I am about to
> reinstall them. However I cannot be sure what the torque setting
> should be for the 4 bolts that attach the transmission clutch housing to
> the engine. My manual gives a setting for the clutch housing to engine
> shield of 14lbs/ft Is this the setting (it seems lower than I would have
> expected)
> There does not seem to be any other setting that comes near the
> description I would give for the bolts.
> I am hoping to replace the engine in the car today so any speedy
> response would be welcome.
>
> Graham UK
>
> VIN 17152
>
The correct setting is 37 ft lbs. Happy Holidays to All
Rob Grady
P.J. Grady Inc_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 06:22:13 -0800
From: "David Cox" <dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Courtesy Light Switch Replacement
Actually, the Battery Saver was the 2nd item I purchased for my Delorean, after the Fanzilla. It installed easily, quickly, and works well. I mentioned the Volvo switch because people were talking about designing a new door switch, and that feature was one thing I found to be very useful and user-friendly. Even if I did have door switches that had this feature, the Battery Saver would still be useful if I had the trunk or hood open.
Dave
vin 16367
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 00:15:17 -0500
From: "Jack & Virginia Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Interior light - dimming!
Uh.... I believe the DeLorean already does that, at least in reverse. Mine
stay on for anywhere from 10-20 seconds when I close the door. When
opening, however, they just come on.
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
'81 DeLorean Vin 03461 August 1981 Build NYS Lic: 1981 DMC
'97 Red BMW Z3 Convertible 2.8 6 Cyl -- not the baby 4
'98 Red Dodge Ram Quad Cab Lariat
'01 Black PT Cruiser Limited w/ Flames
Visit us at www.sacketmansion.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 8:59 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Interior light - dimming!
I mentioned this awhile back on the DML, maybe some new folks can shed a
light on this one...
I'd like to be able to have an interior light in my DeLorean which dims.
I've seen this function on BMWs, you open the door and the light gradually
comes on, you exit the car, walk away and the light dims till its off. Its a
very cool effect, and I'd like to have this function in my DeLorean.
Any suggestions/ideas on how to make this work? I would guess that you can
keep the two interior lights yet somehow incorporate a gizmo which will make
the interior lights dim on/off.
Best wishes for the new year,
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 01:18:54 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vinyl and Leather interior
On Wed, 27 Dec 2000, Tyler Graves wrote:
> Before I start putting leather conditioner on my vinyl, can someone
> please tell me which parts of the interior are real leather? I know
Just the seats, believe it or not. The rest is extremely high quality
vinyl.
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 23:53:36 -0000
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Riverside Resort Laughlin Car Museum
Subject car is owned by a couple that live in Idaho. Ruby is incorrect.
These people are members of the Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club. They also
own a Bricklin and a customized 2-door Cad. I have advised the owners of
this thread. If they wish to respond, they will. Arnie Brandon, President
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club
>From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Riverside Resort Laughlin Car Museum
>Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 21:55:29 -0000
>
>Las time I spoke with the lady who was in charge of the Museum down
>in Laughlin she said that she had 2 cars there (guess the other one
>must have been moved out). If it's the car I'm thinking of, I might
>be able to tell you a little about it. I remember that it was an
>early VIN. Alot of very early cars that left the factory didn't come
>with front emblems mounted. I have pictures somewhere of the VIN
>plate and the binnacle from the inside. I know that the car was owned
>by a couple by the name of Ruby who lived in Idaho. Originally the
>asking price was $20K, but was later on dropped to $18K I believe. A
>while later the car was sold. Though I don't know who the car was
>sold to, I do know that they decided to let it stay at the museum.
>What makes the car unique was that only half of the car is painted.
>Below the belt line the car is painted purple, and above it's bare
>stainless. The car is a perfect example of how NOT to treat a
>DeLorean. The rubber on the door seals is rotten, and the leather
>inside is dried out. Even though the car is in a museum, it has not
>been taken good care of. Anywho, to answer you question, yes they
>could replace the emblem to make the car look "proper", but it would
>probably ruin the car's personal history.
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585 (The DeLorean from hell, but slowly coming back).
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Gabe" <thecreech@xxxx> wrote:
> > Recently, I visited the Riverside Resort in Laughlin, Nevada which
>of course
> > has a car museum including a delorean. The strange thing about it
>was it was
> > missing its DMC ebmlem on the grille. I was wondering if possibly
>the owner
> > of the car is on this list(It said it was owned by a couple from
>california)
> > and they could see about replacing the emblem? They probably own
>lots of
> > cars and don't have anything special with the delorean so they
>probably
> > aren't on the list. The car looked completely naked without it and
>I thought
> > it was a sad thing to have one missing its emblem in a Museum.
>Anyone else
> > seen this car?
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 04:04:05 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dealer stripe
Tom, I remember several months back that there was a person in
california that put one up on ebay and i tried to buy it. He backed
out and said he was going to have some made. I haven't heard back
from him since. I have two oem small ones i would be willing to trade
one for a large on with a little extra. I would also like to get a
large stripe for a pattern, then I could have some made and return it.
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxx> wrote:
> Please help!!
> As some of you might remember I was involved in an accident a few
months
> ago. My left front fender was crushed and is not repairable. I got
a new
> fender now but the problem is that my D has a wide dealer stripe. I
can't
> remove the stripe from the old fender and I don't want to remove it
from the
> whole car. So, here's my question to you: does anyone have a dealer
stripe
> for the left front fender ONLY? I don't need the whole thing
(mainly because
> they are just way too expensive), just for one fender.
> Please email me directly at tomcio'AT'jamesik.com
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6298
> tomcio@xxxx
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 20:26:44 -0000
From: "gwells" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Torque settings
Thanks to those who helped me with the question I had on Christmas Eve.
With your help, the engine and gearbox are now back in the car and
hopefully the final connections will be made tomorrow and we will be up
and running. Lets hope for no unexpected surprises.
Happy New Year
Graham UK
17152
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 00:48:42 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Swapping Center-console / re-wiring
> I'm guessing there is no way to get out the bracket without full
> removal. I removed mine and it just doesn't seem like you could
> squeeze it out. It's way in there.
I noticed! In my car the foam on top of the bracket actually stuck
to the inside of the leather "hood" to make it even more difficult...
> It's actually not very difficult to remove.
[snip}
> should come off in just 10-15 minutes. surprisingly easy.
It WAS surprisingly easy! Took me 40 minutes, but it was my first
time ever trying AND my first "big" project on my car...
(bigger than changing some bulbs and wiring)
> Then you have full access to the stereo which will make it much
> easier to connect wires and get it in there.
> > What I really need to know is if this can be removed leaving
> > the armrest in place; I don't want t completely disassemble
> > my interior just for putting in a radio.
Well eventually I ended up doing just that, BUT it gave me a great
opportunity to do some re-wiring on my (new) Lights Master Switch;
I took the load for the position-lights of of the switcht with a
relay, and while I was at it I installed an extra relay that
disables high and low beams when the ignition is off.
This saves the battery from getting drained when I forget to turn
off my lights and since I noticed most "modern" cars have this
as a standard feature I thought I'd put it in my D too...
If anyone is interested in how I did this, mail me and I'll
send you a brief discription. It could take a while, since I'm
working on several other DeLorean-related projects too.
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 16:56:09 -0700
From: "Dale Schaub" <daleschaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front Speakers
Anyone know any good methods of getting the front speakers back in?
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 18:54:14 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Coilsprings installed...(finally)
Hey List,
I just wanted to let the list know that I finally got all 4 coilsprings
installed today. I haven't really touched the frame for the past few weeks
because of the cold weather and also I had purchased a special kind of
coilspring compressor to do the front coilsprings and I was waiting for that
to arrive. Today when I was using the compressor that I bought, I realized
that it wasn't going to work right. So I went out and rented the kind of
compressor that goes on the inside of the coilspring and that worked
perfectly (thanks again Marty!). Needless to say I already called the place
where I bought that compressor and I am returning it. Now tomorrow I should
be able to install the front shocks and if I can do that, I can get the front
wheels installed. I just found out that this Saturday coming up my area is
supposed to get 8 - 14 inches of snow so I doubt I will be able to do any
more work on it until most of that snow melts. I tell ya....my area hasn't
had snow in the past 3-4 years and now....NOW...when I am in the middle of
doing my DeLorean restoration it decides to snow. Why me? If I get any more
work on the frame done tomorrow I will be sure to send another post to the
DML about it. Thats all for now. Happy New Year everyone!
Later,
Nick
1852
Http://members.aol.com/njp548
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 21:53:06 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Tire torque settings
Hello All,
in the owners manual, it says that one should be sure to tighten the lugnuts
on the wheels to 70 lb/ft after replacing the wheel. how important is this?
i would like to work on my speedo while my D is in storage, but i don't have
a torque wrench. is it safe to just tighten them snugly with a tire iron in
a criss-cross pattern, but being careful not to over tighten them? or should
i be cautious and follow the book 'to the T'...?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 21:04:12 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Speakers
>Anyone know any good methods of getting the front speakers back in?
Yeah, just do it! It is tight working in there. For the passenger side, I
ended up removing the glove box and the knee pad so that I could run new
speaker wires. The hardest part is keeping the retaining nuts from sticking
to the speaker magnet. It would almost be worth getting plastic nuts from
the hardware. Another problem was that my replacement speakers were a bit
thicker. They have tweeters mounted in the centers that stick out a little
higher. This presses on the dash pad from the underside creating a slight
bulge, but not bad. If I used spacers to keep the tweeters away from the
dash pad, then the studs would be too short to hold the nuts. I thought
about making an adapter ring similar to spacers used on custom rims, but I
felt that wasn't really needed. What speakers are you putting back in there
anyway?
The driver's side speaker was pretty much the same effort. I removed the
knee pad on both sides so that I could have more room to run the new wire.
I have read posts from people who recommend removing the seats to have more
room to lay in there, but I'm skinny enough that it would have been a waste
of time for me.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 19:16:25 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: door light switches and totalled cars
Just thought I would jump in with my two bits on these two subjects. PNDC
President-For-Life Arnie Brandon has used the Volvo switches for several
years and reports they were an easy fit. As noted they will lock in so you
can easily turn off your interior lights when in a show etc. Volvo part
number is 1362769.
As for rebuilding or parting out DeLoreans, I have restored 5 and parted out
6 more. I once sold over $5,000 worth of parts off of one in a couple of
weeks, and that was from the windshield forward! But those 6 cars were all
beyond saving due to fire or crash damage, or too many missing parts (like
the entire rear half of the frame and body gone). But I would always try to
save one if at all possible. As noted by others, they aren't making any
more. And contrary to what some have said, you can actually make money at
it as long as you don't count your labor. I've never lost a nickel on a
collector car including the DeLoreans. You just have to use your head and
know what you are getting into. It helps to love working on cars and having
bloody knuckles. Of course having 10,000 spare parts doesn't hurt
either....
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
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