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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. New 2001 Delorean Time Line Calendar
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: [Filling holes in front bumper and rear centerpiece]
From: james sawyer <mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re:storage was oil filers
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Filling holes in front bumper and rear "centerpiece"
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: New custom shocks
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. storage for long times
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: [Colors?]
From: <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re:storage was oil filers
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re:storage
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Storage (long)
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Painted DeLoreans update
From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. The Fallacy of Fram (was: Re: Oil Filters)
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. DMC model on www.miniauto.com
From: "Matthew Spittle" <mds328@xxxxxxx>
15. Automobile Trivia
From: "scottmueller.al" <scottmueller.al@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Aftermarket rims (was Re: Colors update)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: New custom shocks
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
19. Storage
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Delorean Mention in movie
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
21. Adjustable Shocks
From: "Mike " <mquinto@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: [Filling holes in front bumper and rear centerpiece]
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
23. Re:storage was oil filers
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. The Fallacy of Fram (was: Re: Oil Filters)
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: DMC model on www.miniauto.com
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 01:25:33 -0600
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New 2001 Delorean Time Line Calendar
A Delorean time line - As far as I know....it's never been done....
We've designed a new mini calendar that features a full colour laminated
Delorean print above 12 tear off monthly pages. Each page contains a month
at a glance with corresponding important dates and fun facts about the
Delorean automobile.
The timeline starts in January of 1925 (JZD's birth) and runs until June
2002 (Ken's incredible Memphis show).
It's a great item and I've poured a bunch of time, effort and research into
it.
Take a look - there's a sample page on display at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=503369533
The calendar measures 4" x 8" and has a large MAGNETIC backer that allows it
to easily stick to filing cabinets, fridges, lockers etc.., Pefect for the
office, school or dorm - and it makes an amazing stocking stuffer.
Order today and we'll include a FREE Bonus Keychain!
$9.99 + $2.50 shipping.
For more details contact me privately.
Thanks!
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN#17089
www.mydelorean.com
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Message: 2
Date: 18 Nov 00 22:33:29 PST
From: james sawyer <mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Filling holes in front bumper and rear centerpiece]
Sir,
I had a plate on my front bumper, I filled the holes with drip irigation
plugs. I know it sounds funny but they pop right into the holes and will stay
there and best of all they really look pretty good (looks kind of factory)
jim
vin4149
"ELMO"
DMCNRED
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 07:03:50 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:storage was oil filers
Didn't strike a nerve, was just putting in my "two cents" worth.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> I see I struck a nerve. There are many different ways to store a
car
>snip<
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 07:07:10 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Filling holes in front bumper and rear "centerpiece"
You can use any type of auto body filler to fill in the holes. You'll
want to be able to sand it so you can "feather" it to blend in with
the bumper, then prime and paint.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Prety soon I'll be replacing my big European license-plates with
smaller
> American-style ones.
> (Dutch (and most other European) license-plates are much wider than
American
> plates and slightly less high)
>
> When I do that the screwholes where the current plates are mounted
will remain visible...
> I was kind of hoping someone here could give me som pointers on how
to NEATLY
> cover up those holes.
> They're in my front bumper (on the black trim) and on the
centerpiece between
> the taillights.
> Can I fil these holes up with some kind of putty or something an
then paint the
> pieces black again, or is there a better way?
>
> Hope to hear from you soon,
>
> JAN van de Wouw
> Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
>
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
>
> check out the Delorean-Files at:
> http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
> ------------------------------
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 07:23:08 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
Check all your vacum lines especially to the one that is going to the
black valve that is in the engine compartment (P/N 100763, you can go
to www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?PageID=82&PageCat=7%2DHeating%
2C+Ventilation+and+A%2FC to check it out). This is the hot water
valve. If there is no vacum to it, it's likely not opening up and
alowing the hot antifreeze to go to your heater core to give you
heat. The controls to switch from vents to to heater to defrost are
also controlled by vacum. Make sure you have no vacum leaks, listen
for any hissing sounds from the engine compartment and the dash areas.
Another thing would be if your thermostat is missing or stuck open
then your engine will run to cool (not at normal operating temp) and
this will also cause the no heat or not hot enough air problem.
Your water pump should always be working (pumping), there is no
clutch on the pulley system that will disengage it. If your pump
works intermitentley, then it's busted.
Steve
www.dmcmman.homestead.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> My vents are the only thing that blow whether the selector is on
Defrost, heater, or any of the AC positions.
> I also do not get heat out. I think the it definitely colder when
the temperature selector is on the blue side, but the red is not hot.
> So, unless it is on AC, I fog up during the cool rains. So if I
want to see, I freeze.
>
>snip<
> So I think maybe I am seeing two problems: 1) the cabin airflow is
stuck on vents, 2)perhaps the water pump runs all the time? I don't
know, that second one may be way off.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 07:29:01 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New custom shocks
I saw those shocks that Rob has when he first got them in...They look
even better unpainted since they are silver! From what he told me (or
what I understood) I think they are also adjustable via an air valve
on the shock body. Really nice setup. I plan on getting those shocks
when my NOS ones need replacement.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I got a new set of custom shock absorbers from PJ Grady (front and
rear).
> They are nitrogen charged with schrader valves to adjust the
pressure. The
> rear shocks have a captive snap ring to adjust the rear height in
aprox 1/4
> inch increments. So far it's the best setup I've seen to replace
the OEM
> shocks. They are custom made specifically for the Delorean with a
lot of
> attention paid to detail. They are even meticulously painted gray
to match
> the originals.
>
>snip<
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 05:35:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: storage for long times
I stored my DeLorean for an extended period of time, the only precaution I
took was to drive to Phoenix where the weather is more suitable for storage.
I bought a Carcoon from DMC Houston, I also bought jack stands before
storing the car and found a storage area where I could hook up to
electricity.
The results, with a full gas tank - no fuel problems after storage.
I use only synthetic oil and it stays the same through it's life - no
problem. I changed oil after driving back to Houston.
I agree with the brake fluid - my clutch slave cylinder was damaged by the
fluid over the time and cup deteriorated stranding me by the side of the
road. I had the brakes fixed prior to having problems there. When I store
my car again, the only thing I will do different is to change the brake and
clutch fluid prior to storage. The jack stands do not damage the Carcoon
and the fans work great. There was no dust inside Carcoon and the stainless
steel looked like it was washed the day before. The Carcoon keeps the
battery charged. I did not change out the coolant before but I it was
changed with the oil afterwards.
Dee-Moats
vin 4434
On Sun, 19 Nov 2000 00:43:56 -0500 (EST), jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
I disagree (although not strongly). I think it is better to fill the fuel
tank.
jackstands, not just for the tires but so the springs are less
stressed part of the tire facing down and keep flat spots from developing.
If the brake fluid is over 2 years old it should be flushed out with dot 4.
You should manualy turn the engine over several times before trying to start
it.
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 03:11:56 -0700
From: <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Colors?]
Steve, I'm not trying to start another painted verses non painted thread
but I have to say if I saw several DeLoreans lined up together, I too would
want to see the painted one but only because it's a curiosity. I suppose
the same thing could be said about our cars in general at car shows but that
stainless is such a rare thing in the automotive world.
Mike Atkinson
vin 16232
Subject: Re: [[DML] Colors?]
Jim and Cindy, I think you hit the nail on the head as to why paint is so
bad:
"...parked with other DeLoreans people will always come and talk
to us."
Steve
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 05:52:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re:storage was oil filers
On Sun, 19 Nov 2000 04:45:23 -0000, David Teitelbaum wrote:
There are many different ways to store a car.
I worked overseas for a few years and stored my DeLorean. I lived in
Houston and it is not an ideal place to store anything. I bought a Carcoon
and drove the D to Phoenix and found a storage area that would allow me to
hook up the Carcoon. When I returned, the car was clean, in fact it looked
like it was washed the day before. It was, but that day was quite a while
before.
The car was on jackstands, the motor oil was synthetic and had been changed
just a few miles before I left Houston. The tank was full of fuel purchased
for the most part in the hinderlands of Arizona and topped up in Phoenix.
The one thing I would do different is change the clutch and brake fluids. I
was stranded several weeks after I returned to Houston because the clutch
went out. The rubber was effected by storage. I had the brakes fixed
before they went out. The battery was kept charged by the Carcoon and I
drove back to Houston after checking all fluid levels with no problems.
Dee-Moats
vin #4434
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 08:12:21 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re:storage
If I am planning on driving the car once or twice every week or two during
the winter (on nice days) , do any of these storage tips matter, or are
there any other different tips you would offer?
Thanks,
-Hank #1619
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 09:43:14 -0600
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Storage (long)
Not trying to start (or continue) an argument, but. . .
I sense the storage thread coming up for its annual appearance on the list.
A good thing IMHO. In fact this year it seems a little late. The good
weather held out longer I guess. Here are some more thoughts on this to get
you thinking about it. In some cases this is kind of like arguing religion,
fishing lures, or brand of motor oil. As WTW said, storing a car for a fem
months is different than storing it for 10 years. If you are driving the car
periodically (weekly), trips of at least 10 miles or so, none of this
matters. That is not considered storage.
Raising the car on jackstands:
PRO - better for the tires, and possibly the shocks (less pressure being
held, these are gas shocks) but see comment on shock bushings.
CON - You have the suspension bushings in a "twist" mode for a long time. If
the suspension was assembled properly, the bushings are set for "no twist"
with the car on the ground. Also take a look at the upper bushing on the
shock absorbers with car jacked up sometime.
COMPROMISES - take the tires off the car, set in on blocks on the ground so
that the suspension is compressed. Way too much work IMHO. Another
recommendation I have heard is to park the car with the tires on wood
strips, although I can't recall why this was supposed to be better than
concrete. Rolling the car back and forth every few weeks is probably a good
idea if you have the room and access to the car. Also running the tire
pressure up to or slightly over the max will eliminate some of the
flat-spotting as well.
EMPTY FUEL:
PRO - Less "old" fuel to run thru in the spring. The Fuel Pump boot and
other rubber parts seem to fall apart faster if constantly immersed in stale
fuel.
CON - Condensation - this should not be a big deal in a car with a plasic
fuel tank (like the DMC).
OTHER - Stabilizer (Sta-Bil) is probably a good idea, although in my
experience my car came back to life eaiser in the years where I didn't
bother with it. (I store my car from 11/1 to about 3/15). In the spring,
dump in 5 gallons of new fuel and get to the gas station first time out. A
nice feature of the DMC fuel system is that it constantly circulates fuel,
so new/old is very quickly and very thouroghly mixed.
PERIODIC STARTING:
PRO - Gets the fluids circulated
CON - Never runs the engine under load, parts such as the transmission will
never reach operating temp without driving the car. Running it in place at
idle 10 minutes once a month is probably worse than not running it at all.
You'll end up with a muffler full of water, among other things.
HEATED/UNHEATED GARAGE:
Heated is nice if you can afford it, primary benefit is humidity control. If
it is in a heated garage where there are two other snowy/salty cars being
driven in and out of the same garage, this is probably negated. In general,
things are preserved better in the cold. The only real drawback to unheated
space is that you get condensation on days where it suddenly warms up. You
can fight this by keeping a small fan running under the car. The CarCoon is
an example of this. That is a great solution too, again if you have the $$$$
and the space.
BATTERY:
Never put a charger on the battery while leaving the battery connected to
the car for any length of time. Electrolytic action will eventually dissolve
key parts of the cooling system and engine. This effect has been observed by
the DMC service places as actual removal of material from the engine block.
It is OK as long as you disconnect the battery from the car. Best thing is
to remove the battery and keep it on a Battery Tender or such, indoors. That
way if the charger malfunctions and overcharges the battery, you don't get
acid eating up the carpet. I am not fond of the idea of acid fumes
circulating in a closed car all winter as the battery is charged.
DOORS:
Hers's one no one says much about. The absolute best thing to do with the
DeLorean in this area would be to store the car with the doors OPEN. This
releases most of the tension from the torsion bar, releases the tension from
the door struts, and releases the tension from the door seals. Of course NO
ONE does this, although I have heard of people removing the struts. This is
another one of those "how anal do you want to be?" questions. And leaving
the doors open is an invitation to other problems, such as critter (or
child) infestation. Removing the struts and/or releasing tension on the
torsion bars presents their own risks. Probably overall best to keep the
door shut and not think about it. Sorry for thinking about it.
OTHER:
Periodic fluid replacement is one of the best things that you can do for
your car, storage or not. Change the brake fluid, clutch fluid, and coolant
at least every other year. Every year is even better. (There are other
discussions regarding long-term coolant and silicone brake fluid - I'm
assuming conventional). Don't forget the transmission oil, and if you have
an automatic remember that the transmission fluid (ATF) and differential oil
(90W) are two separate systems.
=======================================
Good luck, and please trim reply quotes. People will not want to read this 8
more times.
Dave Swingle ===>Car now in storage off-site in a semi-heated garage with a
bunch of Harleys and a mean pit bull. And an empty fuel tank.
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:14:00 -0500
From: Brian Henderlong <bhender1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Painted DeLoreans update
Hello, all -- I've made a few updates to my "Painted DeLoreans" website (
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm ), including adding another
photo of Jim & Cindy's car (on the 'Red' page), and some "after" photos of
Dan's formerly black-and-gold car (you can access these pics from the
'Black' page -- be sure to check out Dan's new Chevy Celebrity Eurosport
headlights!).
Enjoy,
- Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL
- DeLorean: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
- Impala SS: http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/brakes.htm
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 13:38:54 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Fallacy of Fram (was: Re: Oil Filters)
The earlier discussion on the DML about oil filters caused me to
destroy two new oil filters by cutting them open so everyone could
see why we sell and recommend the Purflux filter is over the Fram
filter that shows up on so many cross-reference lists on the Internet
and elsewhere.
http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/Oil+Filters/
By looking at the photos, it's immediately obvious why the Purflux
works better and costs more. The filtering material is folded in a
'herringbone' pattern for more filtering ability. Looking carefully,
you can also see that the material completely fills the filter,
whereas the filtering material in the Fram falls far shorter - again
this means the Purflux has more filtering ability.
The Purflux filter has metal retainers at the top (as seen in photo)
and bottom of the filter, and a stiff spring to hold it in place. The
Fram filter uses cardboard retainers at the top and bottom.
Though not shown in these photos, the Purflux filter has a much wider
rubber gasket on the bottom to ensure a good seal when installed. The
Fram has a narrower gasket.
Finally, the Purflux filter is the correct size and fits without any
clearance problems - no need to install an elbow fitting to move the
oil pressure sender out of the way to make some of the
cross-reference filters fit.
For those so inclined, here is a handy link to purchase this item.
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/BuyNow.asp?PartID=600&Qty=1
Feel free to email me with questions or comments...
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:44:25 -0500
From: "Matthew Spittle" <mds328@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC model on www.miniauto.com
Hello,
Has anyone purchased the model DeLorean from www.miniauto.com? You can see
the picture at http://www.miniauto.com/images/del.jpg. The sales rep from
the website says the car is 4 1/2 inches long and is made of heavy "white
metal." I was wondering if anyone has purchased this model and had any
thoughts about it. Seems like a high price for such a small car. I wonder
if the doors/trunk/hood open on it?
Matt
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:38:29 -0600
From: "scottmueller.al" <scottmueller.al@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Automobile Trivia
Bit of Automobile trivia.
It was a sweltering August day when the Cohen brothers entered the
> > posh Dearborn, Michigan, offices of Henry Ford (an infamous
anti-Semite),
> > the car maker.
> >
> > "Mr. Ford," announced Norman Cohen, the eldest of the three. "We
> > have a remarkable invention that will revolutionize the automobile
> > industry." Ford looked skeptical, but their threat to offer it to the
> > competition kept his interest piqued. "We would like to demonstrate it
to
> > you
> > in person."
> >
> > After a little cajoling, they brought Mr. Ford outside and asked him
> > to enter a black automobile parked in front of the building.
> > Hyman Cohen, the middle brother, opened the door of the car. "Please
> > step inside, Mr. Ford."
> >
> > "What!" shouted the tycoon, "Are you crazy? It must be a hundred
> > degrees in that car !"
> >
> > "It is," smiled the youngest brother, "but sit down Mr. Ford, and
> > push the white button." Intrigued, Ford pushed the button. All of a
> > sudden a whoosh of freezing air started blowing from vents all
> > around the car, and within seconds the automobile was not only
> > comfortable, it was quite cool.
> >
> > "This is amazing!" exclaimed Ford. "How much do you want for the
> > patent?"
> >
> > One of the brothers spoke up, "The price is one million dollars."
> > Then he paused. "And there is something else. The name 'Cohen
> > Brothers Air-conditioning' must be stamped right next to the Ford logo!"
> >
> > "Money is no problem," retorted Ford, "but there is no way will I
> > have a Jewish name next to my logo on my cars!" They haggled back and
forth
> > for a while and finally they settled. Five million dollars, but the
Cohen's
> > name would be left off.
> >
> > However, the first names of the Cohen brothers would be forever
emblazoned
> > upon the console of every Ford air conditioning system. And that is why
even
> > today, whenever you enter a Ford vehicle, you will see those three names
> > clearly printed on the air conditioning control panel:
> >
> > NORM, HI and MAX >>
Scott Mueller
scottmueller.al@xxxxxxxxxxx
1981/002981 DOA5031/DMCNEWS
_____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:06:45 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Aftermarket rims (was Re: Colors update)
Jim K,
I'm definitely not a purist, so I'll be glad to see pictures and read
descriptions about what you are doing. Let me warn you from my experience
about aftermarket rims. The biggest mistake I made when buying my rims was
getting 7" wide front rims in place of the OEM 6" rims. This extra inch of
width sticks further into the wheel well and interferes with steering. Even
on original Deloreans, the OEM wheels may touch the sway bar. But add an
extra inch to the inside of each tire, and you REALLY hit the sway bar. And
with these new rims, it is the metal part that hits the sway bar and not the
rubber part. This is not good. I went with 16" front rims and 17" rear
rims. They are TSW brand in the Imola style. They look fantastic, but I've
had all kinds of trouble making them fit right. First of all, if your
application needs custom spacers, make sure they are made 'hub-centric' and
not 'lug-centric'. Hub-centric means that a round hollow area inside the
rims fits snugly on the brake rotor hub. Lug-centric means that the hub is
not used and you are at the mercy of hoping that the lug-nuts alone will
center the rim on the hub -- bad idea.
Also, make sure that the rims you get are properly drilled to match the
Delorean lug pattern. My front rims were not available in the proper lug
dimensions, so the dealer had a machine shop re-drill them. That really
screwed them up since they drilled the new holes in the wrong place. Now
they are going to try to re-drill the holes again, but I think that is a
lost cause. Hopefully they will have to replace the front rims.
In order to fix the rims hitting the swaybar, I'm in the process of
designing a new heavy-duty sway bar that will have a different shape to
allow more room for the wheels to steer. You can save yourself a lot of
trouble by making sure that whatever rims you get are 6" in the front and
come factory drilled for the Delorean lug pattern.
Sorry to get on a soap box here, but I just don't want to see someone else
make the same mistake that I did.
Later,
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 15:44:31 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New custom shocks
I just got the car back on the ground today and test drove it with the new
shocks on the rear only. I kept telling myself that probably any difference
that I would feel would be too subjective to tell. Well, not so. The new
shocks made a noticeable difference. I don't think my old shocks were bad.
I was just tired of being beaten up by every little bump in the road. I
don't notice any difference in handling except for having the 'rough edges'
smoothed off of most of the bumps.
There is a schrader valve on the bottom of the shocks just like on a car
tire where you can adjust the pressure in them. I suppose you could use
compressed air, but I would only use dry nitrogen for these. Don't hold me
to the numbers because my memory isn't that good, but I think Rob said the
shocks come pre-charged with 175 psi dry nitrogen. This is supposed to be
the minimum for that type of design. They can be charged up to 250 psi
which would probably give a ride as hard as the OEM shocks or worse.
The internal spring compressor I bought from NAPA to replace the front
springs won't work on the rear springs/shocks since you have to compress the
springs externally before the shocks can be removed. I checked around for a
source to buy an external spring compressor, and Pep Boys offered to loan me
one for free! All I had to do was give them a $50 deposit which I got back
when I returned the tool. That was nice of them. :)
The compressor comes in two mirror image pieces -- one for the right side of
the spring, the other for the left. The problem is that there isn't much
room to hook the things up -- let alone trying to have them 180° apart. It
took me 3 tries to successfully compress the spring on one side and two
tries to get it right on the other side. If you use this method to compress
the springs, I highly recommend tightening it with an air-impact wrench like
the directions recommend. I thought I would have better control if I did it
by hand, but quickly realized that it would take all day. So I got the
air-impact wrench out. While I had those springs compressed, I felt like I
was holding a cocked and loaded gun to my face. If something slips, there
is probably enough force in those springs to take your head off. Also be
sure that you have a torque wrench to tighten everything back to specs.
Don't let this scare you off from trying it. It's just a matter of
following directions in the Delorean Worship Manual. Ahem, excuse me, I
mean the Workshop manual.
If I had it to do over again, I would look into trying the type of spring
compressor that looks like a big duck bill / clothes pin. I think something
like that would work easier as long as the shocks don't get in the way. It
took me about 3 hours to do the first side and about an hour to do the other
side. Practice helps.
If you install these shocks, be sure you put the cup & spring on BEFORE you
connect and torque the top of the shock body to the car. Unlike the OEM
shocks, the 'clamp' that fits on the shock body is a solid ring that won't
slip over the bottom of the shock because the schrader valve is in the way.
I learned this the hard way.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:42:02 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vents only- no heater, defroster
Kevin,
Your AC vent and no heat problem is most likely caused by a defective AC
Mode Switch. The best action is to replace this part with the updated
version part# 100752G which includes an ac compressor "on" function in the
defrost position.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Creason <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 11:06 PM
Subject: [DML] vents only- no heater, defroster
> My vents are the only thing that blow whether the selector is on Defrost,
heater, or any of the AC positions.
> I also do not get heat out. I think the it definitely colder when the
temperature selector is on the blue side, but the red is not hot.
> So, unless it is on AC, I fog up during the cool rains. So if I want to
see, I freeze.
>
> My car was built 10/81. I don't know what mods have been done. In 12/97
DMC-Houston did a lot of work, hoses and things (totalling about 6 grand- I
said a lot of work!). The cooling fan does not seem to run all the time, but
the engine temp has never been up over 200. The AC does not run except on
the AC settings (I can tell by the engine load).
>
> So I think maybe I am seeing two problems: 1) the cabin airflow is stuck
on vents, 2)perhaps the water pump runs all the time? I don't know, that
second one may be way off.
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 14:14:58 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Storage
O.k. lets talk apples to apples and oranges to oranges........Storage.
What do we mean by storage? Some may have a different idea about how
long "storage" is. If I put my car in the barn for the winter but
start it up every other week is that considered mainstream "storage" or
just "inactive"? There are times in the summer when I don't drive my
car for 2 or 3 weeks....Is this considered it being in storage. I don't
see any difference between the two. I do know some people who take
their cars to a classic "storage" facility where it sits a full 6 or 7
months without being started. This, to me, is "storage" not putting
your car in the garage or barn and starting it up every week or 2. It
seems like overkill to fog cylinders, drain everything, add gas
stabilizers etc... if you do this type of non-use.
So, what about those of us who do start the car every few weeks and let
it run for 1/2 hour or more during the off season? Are we killing our
car engines or are we doing the best thing for them by starting them
regularly? I use synth oil which is pretty expensive. I don't put
alot of hard miles on my car so is it reasonable to change the oil prior
to winter after I just did it 2000 miles ago. Here in Maine there is no
way I'm going to put regular oil in my car and have it turn into a hard
mass and try to start my car when it's -20 or more. With the synth oil
it will flow no matter how cold it is. (I'm not trying to start a debate
over regular/synth oil)
Tom
vin #005732 MT
Visit my web site
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 13:14:43 -0800
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Mention in movie
Went to go see Charlies Angels last night. In the beginning they go to a
party undercover, and bill Murray is going by the initials of JD, The
girls are giving him names like Jack Daniels, Jimmy Dean, and John
Delorean... just kind of funny, I thought
Trevor Johnson
#6974 and 4055
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 22:39:24 -0000
From: "Mike " <mquinto@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Adjustable Shocks
Hello,
I didn't know that Rob was having those types of shocks made I would
have purchased a set. I now just installed the cross reference shocks
on my car.
The off-road racing industry have been using nitrogen adjustable
shocks for years.
We use them on our fleet of flyer military vehicles.
The brand we use are made for us by Fox Shox.
I wonder who makes them for Rob?
Did Rob say anything about adjusting the shocks yourself. Or needing
to buy a shock gauge.
I do know by experience that if you do not use a heavy duty valve
cores they will leak over time.
But don't be afraid of getting dirt or sand on the shock shaft.
It won't harm anything. And if you installed rubber shock boots over
the shocks, they would just collect dirt inside them over time which
is bad. They have small holes on both ends of them to let water out,
but heavy mud collects inside them.
So just leave the shafts exposed.
Does anyone know if he plans on making coil-over adjustable shocks.
I really would be in the purchasing mode for them.
Regards,
Mike Vin#1113
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 18:24:55 EST
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Filling holes in front bumper and rear centerpiece]
What are "drip irrigation plugs"?
Bill
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 23:33:25 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:storage was oil filers
I have one more point to add on storage. I have seen many cars in
"long term storage" that were origionly just to have been short term.
Either the owner couldn't play with all his toys anymore or for
whatever reason the car just never came out of storage. Perhaps he
would start it once in a while and one day maybe the battery was dead
or the gas just went stale. I have successfully unstored such cars but
it takes alot more work and parts. When you put a car in storage you
just never know when you will get back to it. The best route is to
prepare it for long term storage in all cases but some people don't
take any steps at all.Storage up to a year can get by without any
steps if in a heated garage and at least take out the battery.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> I see I struck a nerve. There are many different ways to store a car
> and the opinions on what to do with the motor oil is a very
> controverstial area. In my experiance it really doesn't matter as
long
> as you don't get flooded or are in too hot or too high a humidity. A
> bigger problem is the fuel. Fuel doesn't store well in cars. It is
> dangerous and unstable especialy the newer blends with the
oxygenates
> and additives. The most important thing you can do is drain ALL of
the
> fuel from the car in storage. Next it is best if the car is on
> jackstands, not just for the tires but so the springs are less
> stressed. The tires will be alright in a few miles as long as it's
> only a couple of months. The battery should be removed and kept
fully
> charged. If the anti-freeze is old or acidic or weak it should be
> changed before storage. If the brake fluid is over 2 years old it
> should be flushed out with dot 4. The most important thing about
> storage is the way you bring a car out of it. You should manualy
turn
> the engine over several times before trying to start it. You should
> add fresh fuel and a fully charged battery. As soon as it is warmed
up
> change the oil and filter. This could get lengthy and I am sure
there
> are many with other ideas on how to store and unstore a car. In all
of
> the cars I have taken out of storage and in junkyards the smallest
> problem was internal corrosion in the motor not counting the cooling
> system.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 Yes my car is now in storage for the winter
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> > I agree that with Dave in supporting our well deserved Delorean
> parts
> > vendors and purchasing parts through them. I don't agree with
> storing
> > any car without changing the oil
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 23:49:11 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Fallacy of Fram (was: Re: Oil Filters)
On some filters there are bypass valves, drainback valves, relief
valves, etc; in many cases the factory filters are the only ones
correctly calibrated to a specific application. Aftermarket filters
need to fit as many cars with as few different types as possible to
keep inventory down so now you get into a "one size fits all". Just
because it fits doesn't mean it is correct. I have also seen that
quality control isn't always as good. There are cases where the
pressure on a filter in cold weather will blow the filter apart
because the cold oil just could't get through and the case couldn't
take the pressure. You have to believe that the Delorean venders would
only sell parts that they know won't cause problems and that if a good
substitute was available they would be using it.When you take it upon
yourself to try parts other than recommended you do so at your own
risk but worse than that you may not be aware of all the implications.
There is nothing wrong with substituting parts in an emergency but I
never heard of anyone doing an "emergency" oil change.Keep an extra
filter on hand, they don't go bad in storage.
David Teitelbaum
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, James Espey <james@xxxx> wrote:
> The earlier discussion on the DML about oil filters caused me to
> destroy two new oil filters by cutting them open so everyone could
> see why we sell and recommend the Purflux filter is over the Fram
> filter that shows up on so many cross-reference lists on the
Internet
> and elsewhere.
>
> http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/Oil+Filters/
>
> By looking at the photos, it's immediately obvious why the Purflux
> works better and costs more. The filtering material is folded in a
> 'herringbone' pattern for more filtering ability. Looking carefully,
> you can also see that the material completely fills the filter,
> whereas the filtering material in the Fram falls far shorter - again
> this means the Purflux has more filtering ability.
>
> The Purflux filter has metal retainers at the top (as seen in photo)
> and bottom of the filter, and a stiff spring to hold it in place.
The
> Fram filter uses cardboard retainers at the top and bottom.
>
> Though not shown in these photos, the Purflux filter has a much
wider
> rubber gasket on the bottom to ensure a good seal when installed.
The
> Fram has a narrower gasket.
>
> Finally, the Purflux filter is the correct size and fits without any
> clearance problems - no need to install an elbow fitting to move the
> oil pressure sender out of the way to make some of the
> cross-reference filters fit.
>
> For those so inclined, here is a handy link to purchase this item.
>
> http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/BuyNow.asp?PartID=600&Qty=1
>
> Feel free to email me with questions or comments...
>
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas
>
> 281/568-9573
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 20:22:15 EST
From: delorean31@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC model on www.miniauto.com
In a message dated 11/19/00 3:16:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, mds328@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< Hello,
Has anyone purchased the model DeLorean from www.miniauto.com? You can see
the picture at http://www.miniauto.com/images/del.jpg. The sales rep from
the website says the car is 4 1/2 inches long and is made of heavy "white
metal." I was wondering if anyone has purchased this model and had any
thoughts about it. Seems like a high price for such a small car. I wonder
if the doors/trunk/hood open on it?
Matt
>>
I did purcahse one. They are from VF Model Cars of Germany. They only make
a few in limited production runs. I had to wait some time for mine. In any
event the detail is fantastic. the picture on the website actually looks
poor compared to the actual car. If interested I will try to post some pics.
Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360
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