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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Painted vs. Stainless - which gets more attention?
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: no dash lights
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Who wants a Backlit Dash???
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: no dash lights
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: My D died twice in a month. Beat that!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: no dash lights
From: "Ben Maxwell" <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re:Oilfilters
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Learning Channel program...
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: possible overheating
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Fuel Pickup (was My D died)
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Trouble Free Trip
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: [Colors?]
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
13. Re: oil filters - which one for a D?
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Dwellometer
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
15. vents only- no heater, defroster
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. More parts for sale...
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Dwellometer
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Dwellometer
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Mechanic needed in Bay Area
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: oil filters - which one for a D?
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Filling holes in front bumper and rear "centerpiece"
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: no dash lights
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
23. New custom shocks
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
24. Re: Dwellometer
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Colors update
From: azclosets@xxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 23:26:37 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Painted vs. Stainless - which gets more attention?
I've been driving a black DeLorean the last week or so in here in
Houston, and after having owned and driven a LOT of "regular"
stainless ones, I notice that the painted one doesn't garner NEAR as
much attention as the stainless one does - driving in traffic, in
parking lots, it seems to "blend in" with the rest of the painted
cars. The stainless ones people always seem to notice. Is my
experience atypical, or can another owner who's had or has both a
painted and a non-painted DeLorean share their thoughts?
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 23:11:14 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: no dash lights
Is your dimmer working?
Mine spins and spins with no stops, but it does dim the lights up and down.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 7:08 PM
Subject: [DML] no dash lights
> Hello List,
> I took my car out at night for the first time last week and noticed
the
> lights that light up the dash gages are not working.(4 across top I think)
I
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 23:47:27 -0600
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Who wants a Backlit Dash???
I have recently been taking apart my instrument cluster to see the total
involvement in making a backlit dash. After finding it to be a bit more
involved than I hoped for, (and frying an IC on my tach.), I talked to a
person who has worked with this stuff before. It turns out that this
person could help me considerably, and end up with a final product
looking 99% stock. It will also be possible to have several different
speedometer faces. A stock 85, 140, or 170 will all be possible.
Metric faces would also be possible if requested. To stay similar with
the center console, all white lettering will be illuminated green, and
the orange, red, and blue will illuminate with their respective colors.
I am also considering illuminating the "DMC" logo on the left side. And
finally, the white needles will illuminate, in white.
Now here is where all of you come into play. I realize that some of you
have ordered the digital dash from Dakota Digital for about $800, and
this is a very similar situation. Due to the initial cost of making the
custom faces out of special plastic, I would need an initial order of 20
dashes to make this all possible. If I get 20 orders or more, the price
would be around $250 dollars. This would be a nice way to get the dash
to look more modern at a fraction of the cost of an all digital one, not
to mention your choice of a speedo face. There is one other catch, this
should be a 99% reversible mod, but you would need to send me your WHOLE
assembled binnacle to install it. Installation should take about 1-2
weeks. It would probably take a few months for development, so
unfortunately it may not be ready before winter storage season is over.
I ask that anyone who would be interested in this, to email me
directly. My email is ultra"at"isd.net. Just remember, this is still
all preliminary, but if I get 20 interested people, there is a good
chance this will happen.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 06:00:03 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: no dash lights
Check your dimmer switch. It contolls and only controlls those
overhead lights. It may be busted or you may have corroded contacts
on it. Try bypassing it (unfortunately, I dont know which two of the
three connectors to jump!). It they light after that, there is your
problem.
Jim Reeve
DMC - 6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hello List,
> I took my car out at night for the first time last week and
noticed the
> lights that light up the dash gages are not working.
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 16:34:18 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My D died twice in a month. Beat that!
Christian,
Most rain related engine performance problems can be corrected by performing
an ignition tune-up; i.e.: replace the spark plugs, wires, distributor, and
rotor.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 4:48 AM
Subject: [DML] My D died twice in a month. Beat that!
> Hey guys,
>
Tonight (again in the rain), I felt the car acting sluggish as soon as
> I started driving.
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 10:16:22 -0000
From: "Ben Maxwell" <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: no dash lights
David,
Same thing happened to me when I got my car... the guy who had it
before me thought the car didn't have any dash lights. Do this quick
check before looking for shorts in the system. check out the
rheostat that controls the dimming of the inst. cluster (on console
in front of a/c panel). Mine was going in a complete circle and
didn't adjust the brightness at all. My solution was to remove the
console cover, and check out the rheostat. There are four spade
connectors on the device, and three wires that go into it. One is
the power wire, another goes to the headlight and hazard switch
lights, and the third is a variable resistance level for the dash.
Move the dash connector one space over to the empty slot on the
rheostat. You'll be able to figure it out real easy when you see it
and when you hit the right connection - bingo! The rheostat still
spins, but at least I have super bright inst. lights -- which i never
needed to dim before anyway.
An easy solution without having to buy a new rheostat, or jumper any
wires.
good luck-
ben
#06976
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hello List,
> I took my car out at night for the first time last week and
noticed the
> lights that light up the dash gages are not working.(4 across top I
think) I
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 05:29:24 EST
From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Oilfilters
David wrote:
>Unless the oil is VERY old and completly black modern oils have a very high
capacity to hold dirt and moisture.<
He forgot to mention acids! Both acids and moisture in an engine will start
rust and corrosion during long term storage. The oil will sooner or later
drain off of the cylinder walls, cam lobes, etc., that will then rapidly be
attacked with any remaining water and acidic moisture.
> I change the oil in the spring along with the filter after a good warm-up. <
Personnaly I don't think many engine or oil experts will agree with that
schedule.
My recommendation, used over a number of years in both car and airplane
engines that are put away for winter storage:
- Run the engine for a few minutes after it has reached normal oil
temperature.
- Drain oil completly and replace oil filter.
- Fill up with new oil (not colder than room temperature).
- If you want to be extra careful, pull the spark plugs and squirt some oil
into the cylinders, then crank the engine a few turns and replace the plugs.
When spring finally rolls around:
- Run engine until warm.
- Drain oil, replace the filter and fill up with new oil, then drive it until
it reaches normal operating temperature. Check to make sure no oil seals have
given up the ghost during storage.
There are more things that can be done if you REALLY want to "pickle" the
engine but this should suffice for normal winter storage.
Roger
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 07:51:34 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Learning Channel program...
backfired? I dont know if I would say that. They destroyed a number of
reputations, and bright futures..
The government was unsuccessful at convicting Mr. DeLorean, but I think they
still accomplished what they set out to do.
James Espey wrote:
> <SNIP>
> enough, the DeLorean sting is the ONLY one of the ten that backfired
> on the government! Scheduled to be aired on February 4th, check your
> local listings!
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:11:55 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: possible overheating
The temp gauge in the Delorean is not prone to failure so you should
trust it. Most likely you have air in the cooling system and should
first bleed it before doing more extensive work. DO NOT overheat the
motor, it is very durable but will not tolerate overheating. After
correcting the overheat you should change the motor oil and coolant.
If an automatic change the fluid in it also.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Wilmoth Mack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
>
> My Delorean could possibly be overheating. I took it out today for
a
> drive and the temperature gauge rose all the way to 260 degrees.
the
> cooling fans cut on and off occanionaly. i let the car idle at 260
> degrees for about 5 minutes and nothing happened. i then tapped the
> accelator and the temperature gauge went down to 220. Does this
sound
> like the gauge is wrong? Or is more serious?
>
> Thanks
> Willie
> Vin 5043
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:27:16 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pickup (was My D died)
On the subject of running out of fuel it is also common that even with
some fuel in the tank to "run out". There have been many cases where
the baffles are missing or incorrectly installed or the pickup hose is
kinked or cut. If you have chronic fuel problems nothing can beat
going into the fuel tank and inspecting for dirt, missing or bad
parts, or an improperly positioned fuel pump. It is very easy on
assemble to turn the pump and kink the pickup hose. I recomend that a
spring be installed in the "s" pickup hose. Most fuel system problems
begin in the tank.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx> wrote:
> Christian, I can beat that. My DeLorean conked out on me about six
times in
> the first month I owned it. I was worried that I had acquired a
lemon. John
> Truscott of the DOA was very helpful and encouraging to me, and he
diagnosed
> that I had a fuel problem.
>
> It turned out to be very simple: my DeLorean stopped running every
time it ran
> out of gas! The gas in my tank was all in my head.
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:46:57 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Trouble Free Trip
It has been my experiance that unless you do all of the work required
of a 20 year old car it will not be reliable. Ask someone who is
having problems the last time he changed ALL of the fluids in the car
and don,t forget the brake fluid! The Delorean has several well known
weak points that with a few mods and upgrades can make the car as
reliable as any WELL MAINTAINED car on the road. The bottom line is
that with the proper care after any initial problems are fixed the car
will give very reliable service. There are many owners who still use
their cars as daily drivers. You cannot buy a "D" with 20 miles that
has been sitting in someone's living room for 20 years and go out and
use it like a new car because it isn't.Many of our "D"s" have never
been fixed "right" by mechanics who don't know the quirks of the car.
Hopefully this list can better inform everyone of how to care for our
cars and not like the DOA says show everyone how "crummy" they are
because a few owners are having some problems that where never fixed
right.I have seen many cars that didn't even have all of the recalls!
A better informed owner will take better care of his car or at least
know what to expect of it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 Yes, I had been stuck a few times too.
-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, milestwo@xxxx wrote:
> To all we read about repairs and problems with our D's, I just got
back from
> the DOA convention in Las Vegas.
- - -
> DRIVE THEM---THAT'S WHAT THEY WERE BUILT FOR
> Lloyd---#3502
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:40:07 EST
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Colors?]
Jim and Cindy, I think you hit the nail on the head as to why paint is so bad:
"...parked with other DeLoreans people will always come and talk
to us."
Steve
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 19:15:26 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oil filters - which one for a D?
I agree that with Dave in supporting our well deserved Delorean parts
vendors and purchasing parts through them. I don't agree with storing
any car without changing the oil. Oil tends to "clump" after being
used and has been sitting for a period of time. Before storing any
car for long period of time, friends of mine like to do the following:
1. Change the oil and filter. After changing it run the engine a
little so it will coat the internal parts with a fresh coat of new
oil.
2. Jack the car up and support it safely so that it is at least a few
inches off the ground. (enough that the wheel aren't touching the
ground) This will prevent your tires from "egging". Egging means that
the tire deforms a little in the shape of an egg sort to speak if it
sits in the same spot for long periods of time with weight on it. If
this happens you're tires will be out of balance and wobble when you
take it out of storage.
3. Remove the spark plugs one by one and "fog" the cylinders with
some Marvel Mystery oil and put the spark plugs back in. To fog the
cylinders you can by a disposable CO2 charged sprayer ($5) at Home
Depot, fill it with some oil and spray it into the cylinders. The
sprayer has a glass jar attached to a CO2 cartridge, found in the
paint section. This will prevent any moisture that gets into the
cylinder from forming any surface rust on the cylinder walls. Also
give it a little protection from when you first fire up the engine
after storage. I recommend to use the Marvel Mystery oil because it
will burn off cleanly, I guess you can also use WD40 but I've never
done it.
4. Disconnect the battery to prevent battery drainage. Nothing sucks
more than trying to crank your car and finding out the battery is
dead.
If you are going to store the car for longer than the winter season
(eg, a few years) Than I would flush out the brake fluid with fresh
new fluid. Brake fluid like to absorb moisture and can ruin sensitive
brake components.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> IMHO when I store my car I don't change the oil. Unless the oil is
> VERY old and completly black modern oils have a very high capacity
to
> hold dirt and moisture. I change the oil in the spring along with
the
> filter after a good warm-up.
> Now is a good time though to get familiar with the Delorean
vender
> of your choice. Yes,you could find a filter that will fit but it
may
> not be of as good quality as one you can get from the venders of
> Delorean parts. They also give you a new copper gasket for the
drain
> plug and I'm sure there are some "bits" or other parts that you
could
> Snip<
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 18:51:19 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dwellometer
what does dwell measure?
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 22:06:20 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: vents only- no heater, defroster
My vents are the only thing that blow whether the selector is on Defrost, heater, or any of the AC positions.
I also do not get heat out. I think the it definitely colder when the temperature selector is on the blue side, but the red is not hot.
So, unless it is on AC, I fog up during the cool rains. So if I want to see, I freeze.
My car was built 10/81. I don't know what mods have been done. In 12/97 DMC-Houston did a lot of work, hoses and things (totalling about 6 grand- I said a lot of work!). The cooling fan does not seem to run all the time, but the engine temp has never been up over 200. The AC does not run except on the AC settings (I can tell by the engine load).
So I think maybe I am seeing two problems: 1) the cabin airflow is stuck on vents, 2)perhaps the water pump runs all the time? I don't know, that second one may be way off.
Tommorrow is supposes to be another rainy day, so I might be able to tinker a little. Any suggestions?
BTW- I don't have any manuals yet. Soon. Soon.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 17:04:18 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More parts for sale...
I'm still cleaning out replaced parts from my garage. I've updated my
DeLorean with lots of new parts this last year.
E-mail me privately if you are interested in these parts:
PARTS
1 LH Original Door lock solenoid
1 RH Original Door lock solenoid
(They both work, yet I replaced mine just to be on the safe side. One of the
solenoids do have some small corrosion to the outside of it.)
1 Original Door Lock Module
(I upgraded mine to LockZilla, yet this original module still works)
1 tray + 1 original washerbottle with cap. Motor is attached yet defunct as
far as I can tell.
1 lights/indicator/wiper switch, (I replaced mine due to the fact that the
indicator arms don't automatically go back to their initial position after
turning. The only thing you have to do is to manually re-set the switches
after making a turn. However, everything else on the switch works as it
should.)
1 original plastic clutchline - still works (I upgraded mine)
1 defunct interior clock (I think it can be repaired)
I will let the parts go cheap, I'd rather like to see the parts go to a
fellow DeLorean owner than simply just throw them all into the trash.
However, if there's a lot of interest (like my last parts offered), a
bidding will be the solution. I hope to sell all these parts in one package
but will of course part them out if necessary.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 17:51:36 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dwellometer
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxx>
wrote:
> what does dwell measure?
Dwell meters are originally intended to measure the amount (actually
degrees of rotation out of 360 of the distributor shaft) that the
points in a point-type of ignition are closed. This has kind of gone
away with electronic ignitions. Many folks still have the meters
laying around, they can be used to measure the "dwell" of the
frequency valve as noted. The measurement number in this is not very
meaningful, just an indication of working or not working.
Dave
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 19:31:13 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dwellometer
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
>they can be used to measure the "dwell" of the
>frequency valve as noted. The measurement number in this is not
>very meaningful, just an indication of working or not working.
Should have said "dwell of the computer signal to the frequency valve". . . an indication of the **computer** working. . ". This does not test the valve itself. Original discussion in message 13001
Dave
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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 12:42:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Mechanic needed in Bay Area
Hi guys,
There's quite a few minor things that I need to get done to my car, but I
don't have the mechanical background to do some, or time to do the
rest. Every shop that I've called in my new home of San Jose has asked me
what a "Lorean" is. Then they insist that it's a Chrysler. So I'm really
looking for someone in the South Bay Area who works on DeLoreans, but I
will settle for someone who knows what a DeLorean is. :)
-Christian
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 20:12:01 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oil filters - which one for a D?
also I forgot to mention to put some gas stabilizer into your fuel
tank and run the car a little after you've added it. This will get
the stabilizer into the fuel system so that the gas does not go bad.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree that with Dave in supporting our well deserved Delorean
parts
> vendors and purchasing parts through them. I don't agree with
storing
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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 21:44:27 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Filling holes in front bumper and rear "centerpiece"
Hello,
Prety soon I'll be replacing my big European license-plates with smaller
American-style ones.
(Dutch (and most other European) license-plates are much wider than American
plates and slightly less high)
When I do that the screwholes where the current plates are mounted will remain visible...
I was kind of hoping someone here could give me som pointers on how to NEATLY
cover up those holes.
They're in my front bumper (on the black trim) and on the centerpiece between
the taillights.
Can I fil these holes up with some kind of putty or something an then paint the
pieces black again, or is there a better way?
Hope to hear from you soon,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 16:04:08 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: no dash lights
Thanks list! it turns out I have a bad rheostat switch. I'll just put a
jumper on it until I order some more DeLorean parts.
Thanks
David
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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 17:13:21 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: New custom shocks
I got a new set of custom shock absorbers from PJ Grady (front and rear).
They are nitrogen charged with schrader valves to adjust the pressure. The
rear shocks have a captive snap ring to adjust the rear height in aprox 1/4
inch increments. So far it's the best setup I've seen to replace the OEM
shocks. They are custom made specifically for the Delorean with a lot of
attention paid to detail. They are even meticulously painted gray to match
the originals.
I'm in the process of installing these and thought that while I'm at it I
would consider installing shock dust boots over them. My question to the
list is that I would like to know if there is enough room between the shocks
and coil springs (front and rear) for dust boots to fit without binding.
I live at the end of a long dirt driveway with a lot of fine sand that kicks
up everywhere. Every time I wash the car, I rinse gritty sand out of the
engine compartment. If sand gets up that high in the car, I'm wondering if
it would get in the shocks as well? Probably not, but I'm curious what
other people think.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 22:21:34 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dwellometer
In the origional automotive application the dwellmeter was used to
measure how long the points stayed closed as they were rapidly being
opened and closed. This was a direct measurement of the gap when
opened as a smaller gap meant it would be closed longer. In the
Delorean we aren't reading "dwell". What you are actually reading is
the pulse width of the ac signal going to the frequency valve. The
larger the pulse width, (the longer it's on) the longer the frequency
valve will remain open. Since the frequency valve is an on-off device
the electric is in effect turned on and off rapidly to give the
different amounts of fuel required. The more it is on the more
fuel.Now you can see why we can use a dwell meter to read the signal
to the frequency valve and why it is called such. By the way a rapidly
changing dc voltage is in effect an ac voltage it just may not be
sinosoidial, in this case it is a square wave which you would see if
you scoped it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> >they can be used to measure the "dwell" of the
> >frequency valve as noted. The measurement number in this is not
> >very meaningful, just an indication of working or not working.
>
> Should have said "dwell of the computer signal to the frequency
valve". . . an indication of the **computer** working. . ". This does
not test the valve itself. Original discussion in message 13001
>
> Dave
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 03:26:08 -0000
From: azclosets@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Colors update
I would first like to thank all who replied to my post here and all
who emailed me.
I would also like to apoligize to all who were insulted by my
painted YUK comment, but let me explain.
19 years ago, when I first got my drivers license and was
shopping for a car, my dad brought me to the local Chevy dealer
who was also a Delorean dealer. The salesman let me sit in the
car, shut the door and make all those motor and gear shifting
noises like a sixteen year old kid does.
Well, I ended up with a 73 El Camino, and have been dreaming
about the Delorean ever since
That dream had no blue, green, red or black in it. That dream
was about a beautiful stainless steel car.
One day, I still plan to own that car but the car I have today will
never be it, way too rough.
So, I have decided to go the other extreme with it. Totally custom.
I think I have picked a color. I haven't seen pictures of a D in
white but the picture in my head looks really good.
Wheels will be white also, I haven't picked the style yet, but I am
planning on 18's in the rear and 17's up front.
Interior will be red leather with lots of Walnut burl trim ( I am a
custom woodworker)
I just picked up some electric seats from a 94 Camaro, not sure
yet if they will fit.
This will be a fun project!
This might make the Delorean purists scream but oh well, sorry
guys, I am taking a trashed car and making it fit my style, and I
will guarentee that when I am finished, It will be a car that John Z
would love to drive himself.
I would be very interested in seeing any custom modifications
that anyone has done.
Thanks,
Jim K
AZclosets@xxxxxxxxx
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