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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Windshield leaks
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Windshieldwiper-electronics
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: wanting info on smartly buying a delorean
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Roof leaking
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
5. Twin Turbos
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: wanting info on smartly buying a delorean
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Non- starter.
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
8. RE. new Windscreens
From: "Vin#5462" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Motorola Alternator!
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Motorola Alternator!
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. A-pillar trim - proper installation
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Coolant Leak?
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Non- starter.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Another no-start
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 00:44:50 -0400
From: Joe Palatinus <jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Windshield leaks
I too have a windshield leak, and now am definatle sure of it because of
the air that I hear comming in at high speeds. I would like to remove the
black trim piece as well, are there any key things to remember while
removing this piece? ANy tips from anyone whose been there, I feel this
is an important issue to address as it looks as though 5 or 6 of us will be
removing that piece this weekend. THe previous owner used black RTV
silicone type sealent, does it really matter what color you use? I mean you
wont see it right? Also is it necesarry to scrap the old sealent off
before applying the new? and can Just the passenger side of the trim piece
be lifted up and sealed as the drivers side does not leak.
Thanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 12:34:37 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Windshieldwiper-electronics
Hello all,
I'm asking this question for a fellow-owner:
Het has a faulty wiper-controlbox...
I was checking the manuals on this and
it seems you can just unplug both sides of the
control-box and put the removed plugs into each other.
By looking at the Electrical schematic I've determined
that this should work.
I could go and just try this, but if this fires something
I'm stuck without wipers, which is not something you want
in the Netherlands... I can't miss my wipers now,
since I'm using my D as a daily driver since I had a fire
in my other car (remember the fire-extinguisher?)
The real question is: has anyone had any experience with
doing this "plug-over"? The only things I can imagine
is that you would loose wiper-delay and that the wipers
don't do a couple of wipes after using the washer/sprayer...
Thanks in advance for responding,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 00:37:24 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: wanting info on smartly buying a delorean
In a message dated 10/27/00 9:04:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
fastride@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I'm getting the feeling there are two kinds of DeLorean
> owners. The rabid fanatics (most of who are on this net, myself included)
> and the "accidental owners" who could have been just as happy driving a
Saab
> 900 or something but somehow wound up with a DeLorean.
>
> Jack Janney
> #10109 (1 week old)
hehe. when i finally get mine, i'm going to be the rabid fanatic type:-)
thanks everyone for the great responses i've gotten so far. some very usuable
information. please keep it coming!!
and if anyone has any leads to finding one in the upper midwest in excellent
condition... please drop a line!!!!!!!
i was talking to a mechanic who works at a sportscar performance shop in
moorhead minnesota and he told me he's worked on a delorean before. he has
been telling me the PRV-6 is a total piece of trash engine. he said it
overheats, loves to destroy camshafts and take the valves with them, leaks
oil, etc etc etc. i basically got the impression from HIM that the engine is
not worth the trouble. yet most of you here have told me the the PRV-6 is a
proven, reliable piece of engineering. this guy told me it was in use in the
Eagle Vision in the late 80's or early 90's. on the flip side, he told me
that if something DOES go wrong with it, parts are abundant and it's easily
fixed....
i'm also very interested in knowing the details on the transmission. i
understand it's a Renault R-30 type? how reliable is this transmission? keep
in mind i'm not going to race the car - only use it as a daily driver in the
spring/summer/fall. how does the straight-stick compare to the automatic?
research on my part has turned up that many problems with the tranny are
related to a bad governor computer? how much is it to get a GOOD computer?
any thoughts?
thanks!
Andy
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 12:00:43 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof leaking
Christian,
I have the same problem with roof leaks in my car. I haven't fixed it yet,
but I have been told (by members of this list) that the problem is due to
rivets under the stainless T-panel. Check out Service Bulletin ST-33-12/81.
It has several pictoral diagrams of where sealent should be applied.
When it rains, water puddles in the dome light and drips out around it. I
bought an entire new headliner from PJ Grady in custom black. It has a new
fiberglass backing which replaces the fiberboard in the original. My
original headliner is warped pretty bad. Before I install it, I'm going to
make real sure that I have all the leaks fixed. Other things I have noticed
about my roof leak is when I hit the brakes, water pours out around the dome
light.
When I parked my car sideways on a hill to wash it, (the passenger side was
uphill) a LOT of water poured in around the dome light and through the area
where the passenger sunvisor attaches. The next time I washed my car, I had
it parked on the hill going the other way, and no water leaked in at all.
So the water appears to be getting in around the torsion bar area on the
passenger side.
About the dented T-panel, you are not alone. My T-panel is pretty dinged up
from a previous owner adjusting the driver's door. I have another one from
a parts car to put on when I fix the leak and replace the head liner. If
you remove your T-panel looking for leaks, you will have to remove the
plastic screen at the back of the T-panel above the rear window. Be very
careful with this screen. It breaks easily. Also, the NOS supply of them
ran out a long time ago. If you brake it, you won't find a new one very
easily.
Later,
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 08:10:38 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Twin Turbos
For everyone who wanted info on the twin turbo kits, here is what I have.
Eleanor A Rogers
Turbo Manifold Co.
841 Worcester Road #304
Natick MA 01760
1-800-449-1248
This info is from about 2 years ago. At that time, the kit was $5,025 plus
shipping and you install yourself. As said before, I have only spoken with
Ms. Rogers on one occasion, but she was extremely nice on the phone.
Brian
16584
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 15:50:47 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wanting info on smartly buying a delorean
The engine, a prv-6 b28f, is the most reliable part of the car. It has
an improved camshaft so it doesn't have the problems of the earlier
engines. About the only way to kill it is to overheat it which is why
it is so important to properly maintain the cooling system and fans.
As to the auto vs. the manual transmission the car performs much
better with the manual. The auto is EXPENSIVE to repair. You are
correct that there are problems with the shift computer but ultimatly
you can overcome them. There are pros and cons about both. Do you
enjoy driving a daily driver in traffic with a stick? Or are you more
into just having fun and not worrying what gear you are in and
driving. Either auto or manual the car is underpowered except with the
turbos and it is not recommended to have a tubo in an automatic. Ask
the Delorean venders how long a clutch lasts in a manual with a turbo
(of course it depends on your driving habits, yours would last longer!
ha ha).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 Enjoying my Automatic
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 10/27/00 9:04:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
> fastride@xxxx writes:
>
> > I'm getting the feeling there are two kinds of DeLorean
> > owners. The rabid fanatics (most of who are on this net, myself
included)
> > and the "accidental owners" who could have been just as happy
driving a
> Saab
> > 900 or something but somehow wound up with a DeLorean.
> >
> > Jack Janney
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 17:37:03 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Non- starter.
I have a car in my care that has just been purchased from an auction, vin
20049, very low miles (111) very well kept in heated and de-humidified
garage, looks immaculate,and I mean "like new", only trouble is its not run
since 1995. I started at the fuel pump, it wasn't running, I changed all the
fuel associated relays (3) with my other car..still no joy.....I jumped
wires to the fuel pump, it ran, the car still wouldn't start....with drops
of fuel dribbled down the air intake it does run, after a fashion.
I have checked the fuel cut off switch sensor, in the footwell..the button
is down.
Question 1. is there an electrical fault that can cause the fuel pump to be
dead, and even if by-passed, still stops the engine from running?
Q2. I have slackened off the large banjo bolt on the right side on the
fuel distributor..no fuel comes out..have I got the right one to check for
flow?..I can't seem to get much useful info out of any of the service books
Q3. I am sure the problem is fuel..but not sure where ..could the fuel
filter be blocked with such low mileage?.The fuel in the tank looks fine and
I have put a gallon of new in.
This is the first DeLorean I have had anything to do with, with the steering
wheel on "the wrong side"..and the first one that refuses to start after a
long time in hibernation!
Ant help greatly appreciated as it booked into our NEC classic car show in a
weeks time.
Chris P DOC uk vins 5638/12176
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 17:32:52 +0100
From: "Vin#5462" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE. new Windscreens
The company which I mentioned in my previous e-mail is called
'Auto Vision Windscreens' and their address is:
7 Edinburgh Gardens
Claydon
Ipswich
Suffolk
IP6 ODS
My windscreen cost £373.65 which included VAT and fitting,
and obviously removal and disposal of the old one. the person
who I dealt with was called Paul he will probably be the only one
who knows that they can get hold of the windscreens as he is the
person I dealt with (nice chap and very helpful). Originally he told
me it could take up to 12 weeks but it turned up and was fitted
within 3.
Hope this helps
Regards
James RG
P.S. I believe they can also tint the glass to your desired shade.
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 13:46:08 -0500
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Motorola Alternator!
ACK! New problem. This one is with my Motorola Alternator. No, it is
not failing, in fact, its putting out more power today than ever
before. But my problem comes the upper exhaust mount. Last night, I
decided to go for a peaceful country cruse in the D. 4 hours of
continuous driving and it ran spectacular, (also running on your fuel
pump Stian). But right before I got home, I went over some bumpy
railroad tracks. After doing so, I heard a horrid clanging metal sound
from the engine. I go immediately home and check out the problem.
Apparently, the upper mount for the muffler had broken apart (didn't you
warn me about this Bruce?) and it had fallen onto the alternator,
effectively bending one of the (cooling?) blades inward and it was
striking the bolts sticking out of alternator case. Today, I removed
the bracket and ordered a new one from Houston, and I also tried bending
the blade back into position. I did this and it is no longer making
noise, but the blade (just one of them) is very bent up all over. Right
now, it is coming uncomfortably close to the belt, and I'm afraid that
it is going to break it off sooner or later. So now here comes my
question.... Do any of you have an old motorola alternator that they
would be willing to take apart and sell me the blades that go on it? I
really dont want to sink the money down for a whole new alternator right
now, and would just like the blades that are behind the pulley. If
anyone of you have this part they would be interested in selling, would
you please contact me directly? (ultra'at'isd.net). Thanks a bunch.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 21:21:04 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motorola Alternator!
There is an easy way to repair your alternator blades, although it
does require 2 people. Using a metal rod (floor jack handle or re-bar
work just fine), slide it in between the right tail pipe and the
nitch in the bottom of the facia. The have the second person on the
ground guide the rod and push it against the bent alternator blade.
Then using a 2-3 pound sledge hammer, gently hit the rod untill the
blade has been bent back into place. Make sure the person on the
ground is wearing safety glasses as some dirt will fall.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxx> wrote:
> ACK! New problem. This one is with my Motorola Alternator. No, it
is
> not failing, in fact, its putting out more power today than ever
> before. But my problem comes the upper exhaust mount. Last night,
I
> decided to go for a peaceful country cruse in the D. 4 hours of
> continuous driving and it ran spectacular, (also running on your
fuel
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 15:42:48 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A-pillar trim - proper installation
On the later cars, like Wayne's, the correct way to install the
a-pillar trim is to have a portion of the material "sandwiched"
between the windshield and the a-pillar. On earlier cars, probably
VIN 2000 and under, the excess material was simply folded behind the
trim piece as it was installed. Several years ago, at the DOA expo in
Nashville, I entered my DeLorean in the what we then a less stringent
concours and was able to quickly install new a-pillar trim using this
method with no point deductions.
I have yet to locate any documentation for why/when this change was
made, though I am sure it is somewhere in the more than 3200
"Engineering Change Authorities" we have on file from the original De
Lorean Motor Company.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
>In a message dated 10/26/00 10:26:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>A post trims can be replaced without removing the windshield if the flap is
>trimmed, but they don't look quite as nice and tight.
>
>-Wayne
>vin 11174
>The New DeLorean Manuals Project
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 04:07:41 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Coolant Leak?
A couple of weeks ago in traffic my car overheated because of a
faulty cooling fan. While the temp didn't go over 240°, this isn't
the first time my car has been this hot. Although I did blow my
radiator cap (since replaced). Ever since my car has be "drinking"
coolant. At least once a week I have to fill the overflow bottle. Now
I know that I have a slight leak from the hose behind my water pump
that connects to the Y-pipe. But I'm unable to see any coolant
puddles on the top of the block any longer, and there's no antifreeze
on my garage floor. Yesterday I thought I smelled burning coolant
when I got out. I thought it may be a bad head gasket, but I can't
see any water in my oil, and my oil level is staying the same. But
I'm only looking at the dipstick. Plus my coolant stays clean. So as
you can guess I have a couple of questions:
1. Is it possible that because I'm in cold weather now that when the
coolant leaks on top of the block it just steams away?
2. If I have a bad headgasket could the same be true only the steam
would exit thru the crakcase breather?
3. What exactly would I look for when I do an oil change to find
water in the oil?
Thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 00:09:18 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Non- starter.
Chris, Have you tried the intertia switch if it has one.
John
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 00:19:33 EDT
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Another no-start
DMLers,
"D" #2578 won't start up. I turn the key and nothing happens. I have
power
to the lights, radio, etc. so I know its not a bad battery. The ground
connections
look o.k. When I turn the key I hear ( with engine compartment open) a
buzzing.
Sounds like an electrical sound. This has happen before, but after a few
turns
of the key it would start. It would start o.k. as long as I started it
every other day.
It had been just over a week since I last drove #2578. Its probably mad at
me.
I am not a mechanic genious, so any explanation or ideas needs to be explain
relatively simple.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Dave L.
2578
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