Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 3 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Automatic transmissions From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: paint codes From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Door lock diagram From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 03:45:17 -0000 From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Automatic transmissions [MODERATOR NOTE: IT IS PROBABLY POSSIBLE TO DO SOME DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR OR NEIGHBORHOOD BY CONDUCTING THIS TEST IMPROPERLY, ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE NEVER HEARD OF IT BEFORE. I'M ALLOWING THE POST FOR ITS POTENTIAL INTELLECTUAL VALUE. -Mike S.] To the List I need help in developing a specifaction for the stall speed of the torque converter. It does not require any mechanical ability just a good running car with an automatic transmission. DO NOT DO THIS TEST IF YOU ARE NOT COMPLETLY COMFORTABLE WITH THIS PROCEDURE! 1) warm up car with a drive of at least 5 miles 2) park car where there is nothing in front and away from any people 3) set parking brake and hold down brake pedal 4) with engine idling shift into "D" 5) smoothly push accelerater pedal all the way to floor 6) when engine speed is stable note reading on tachometer 7) release accelerater pedal smoothly ( don't hold to floor for more than 20 seconds) 8) move shift to park and hold the engin rpm's at 1000 for 30 seconds at least to cool motor. 9) do not repeat again for at least 5 min 10) do this test at least twice to confirm results. This is also a good test for the engine as it gives a rough indication if it is capable of full power output. If you will do this and then either post the results or e-mail me I will keep track and post a spec for the list. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 e-mail address jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx See you at the Fall Foliage Tour ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 23:53:05 -0400 From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: paint codes Aaron, go to Dave Sontos' website. He has the paint codes listed. It is www.vabch.com/dsontos/index.html.. Go th Delorean how to doc, then to painting facias. Bill Lane vin 3635 [DUPLICATE QUOTATION SNIPPED BY MODERATOR] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:10:22 -0000 From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Door lock diagram HI, My automatic door locks have never worked, partly because they were never plugged in (since I bought the car). Last night I went to test it to see if the solinoids were fried for not. I connected the big groups of wires to the appropriate place, but then there is one more wire coming out of the door rely (is it a relay?) Could someone tell me where to plug this in? I saw a place where I think it would go, but when I plugged it in all I got was a clicking when I locked the doors, but they both didn't lock. Anyone have any ideas? If I can get this to work and if I don't have to get new solinoids then I want to get a lock zilla. Thanks Erik Geerdink 04512 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________
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