Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 8 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ?? From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: DMC2 Watch From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Re: Warming Up ?? From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx> 4. Good De Lorean Message From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx> 5. RE: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ?? From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Re: Power Lock Harness From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx> 7. Re: Power Lock Harness From: dherv10@xxxxxxx 8. Re: Needle still straight up! From: dherv10@xxxxxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 18:33:14 -0500 From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ?? You mean that trick still works?? (Pouring Coca-Cola onto rusted bolts to release them just like "Liquid Wrench", but better.) Last time I tried it was about 2 formulations back on the Coca-Cola so I'm surprised it still works. I remember that it had to be the genuine Coke, not the diet, and definitely not any of the competitors. Having learned the this trick when removing rusted lug nuts at a young age, I promptly started drinking Pepsi. I figured if the stuff worked on rust that well, then what the heck does it do to your stomach? At 12:41 PM 8/25/00 GMT, you wrote: >Coca-cola put some right on the rusted screws > >ciao, >dr c. > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 10:23:30 -0400 From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: DMC2 Watch His health appears to be fine...he looks like he is 60, not 75...perhaps he was even younger when he was the youngest person to head up a division of GM than they thought! David Levey 6377 > Hows his health? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > > Had lunch with John DeLorean today. To confirm, he is still trying to come out with another car... ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 00:51:58 -0000 From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Warming Up ?? James, I'll throw in my 2cents worth. As you know the cold start valve shoots gas into the system to assist starting, Then the Lambda unit send's out a steady pulse for the frequency valve to run the cars richer untill the 02 sensor warms up and kicks in. Then the 02 sensor tells the frequency valve to back off the gas. Thus a little rougher idle at first. If your 02 sensor is older and not coming on as fast then you may have a few seconds of richer burning. Try unplugging the frequency valve so it won't run so rich and see what happens. Something is definitely going on. My 11004 cranks up fine and cold even idles ok. If you put a scope on the lambda unit output you will see the square wave going to the frequency valve and the duration of how long it's open or running. Maby in our 105 degree weather is why I'm not having trouble in Dallas, Tx. Cooler weather my be more sensitive. Water is normally 7 degrees cooler inside something. Hope's this helps a little. One other thing, make sure the cold start isn't still shooting gas into the system. It's supposed to shoot a little gas for a second or two. Then shut off. Maby look at the temp switch. John 11004 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "James Teston" <orentha@xxxx> wrote: > In the Owner's Handbook, it says "When the engine is cold, drive the > car as soon as the engine has started. Do not warm up the car by > allowing it to idle for long periods with the car stationery." (it's > on page 15) > > Is that right ?? If I don't warm my D up for at least a few > minutes, it runs very rough, almost to the point of dying. But if I > let it warm up, it runs just fine. > > Is that a typo, or why would it say that ?? > > Thanks, > James Teston #15314 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 01:14:15 -0000 From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx> Subject: Good De Lorean Message Hey Group, I'm sure you have heard that Texas is in the middle of a drought. Dallas is about to break the record of over 60 day's with out rain.. Most of Dallas area is on water rashening. Well, last week two other car's I drive all the time were in the shop due to heat problems. My 11004 De Lorean was my only driver that was weathering this drought and heat. A well tuned and updated car is great to have. Thanks for DMC Houston and all the friends on the DMCNEWS E Groups. I do look and listen to other comments being made. I've learned a lot from DMCJOE and others in there experiences with the cars. John In Dallas. 11004 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:14:19 -0500 From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ?? I have doubts about the rust-destroying properties of Coca-Cola. It has small amounts phosphoric acid, as some other soft drinks do. I believe the acidic action is the result of the carbonation, if I remember my high school chemistry correctly. You're better off removing rust with a chemical designed for the purpose, like "B'LASTER Penatrating Catalyst", manufactured in Cleveland, OH (and my only door price from Car Show 2000). When I worked in a restaurant, our soda dispensers had valves that would click over from an empty syrup container to the next one. But the supplier refused to hook up the Diet Pepsi to the valves. Why? Because it would eat the o-rings in about a month. Sodas are acidic, some more than others. They may have limited automotive application but I would use them strictly for refreshment, and Coca-Cola has over a 90% refreshment rate. :-) Gus Schlachter Austin, TX VIN# 4695 > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Noeltner [mailto:mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] > Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 6:33 PM > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx > Cc: ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: [DML] Coca-Cola - Was rusted screws ?? > > > You mean that trick still works?? (Pouring Coca-Cola onto rusted bolts to > release them just like "Liquid Wrench", but better.) ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 22:34:11 -0400 From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness Jim, I had the same problem. I was told that Lockzilla would cure the ails. However, it's not always the case. I have a bad solenoid and once they are out of synch it's anyone's game as to what will happen. My driver's side solenoid is toast. I've since found this out. I went with Lockzilla for fear of my car being a brat and locking me out. BTW, for anyone interested, I have my original control unit sitting here looking sad as it's been replaced with Lockzilla. I know there's got to be someone out there who would want it. Drop me a line if you're interested. Matthew VIN #10365 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 4:45 PM Subject: [DML] Power Lock Harness > Does anybody have a diagram for the electrical harness for the door > locks? My control unit will lock both doors, but will not unlock > either. I know this is most likely the control unit itself, but I would > like to test the solenoids without taking the doors apart, so I need to > know which wires to jump on the connector from the control unit. > Thanks. > -- > Jim Reeve <Ultra> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 23:26:57 EDT From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Power Lock Harness Jim, The housings of the solenoids are ground. Make sure everything is grounded good. The wiring diagram doesn't show inside the relay box, but you should have a red/slate and a red/pink going to ea solenoid. Hot one way is out and other is in. If anyone has a bad relay box, I would buy one to see how to fix them. John 11004 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 23:40:57 EDT From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Needle still straight up! Paul, By the diagram, The gauge has a green and a green/black wire coming in and black is ground. The solid green is hot wire going in to operate the gauge and the green/black is the resistance wire signal coming from the sending unit. The sending unit also has a black ground, and it's possible with the original sending unit that could be where the problem is. The other ground is on the other side of the light. The light has a light green/orange wire going to it off the sending unit. I would take it out the sending unit and with a $10.00 ohm meter see if your getting a ground internally. John ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________
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